Cost to change oil on a cummins 330hp diesel including oil and filters? Also at how m

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Pgitug

Guru
Joined
Jan 4, 2015
Messages
1,231
Location
Usa
Vessel Name
Escapade
Vessel Make
Nordic Tug 37 2002
I am looking at some vessel options and I do not have a clue what each oil change is going to run on this type of engine. I am coming from a sailboat that had a 54 hp diesel. Any and all information would be appreciated.
 
Lots of questions - what engine, doing it yourself, etc.
I have cummins 555s and do it myself, have pumps to do it etc. Filters and oil are cheap when viewed in boat-bucks. I buy oil 20 litres at a time for a bit over $50. Can't remember filter price but it wasn't bad - certainly under $50 each. Might be one of the cheapest maintenance items on the boat. I spend more on zincs and teak finish!
 
I am looking at some vessel options and I do not have a clue what each oil change is going to run on this type of engine. I am coming from a sailboat that had a 54 hp diesel. Any and all information would be appreciated.

The 6B Diamond is 4 gallons of oil and a filter- IIRC, somewhere around $80 for everything.
 
Hey thanks for the input. Yes I figure on changing the oil/filters myself. $80.00 I can live with.

I believe Cummins recommends oil change at 200 hours. Is that about right?
 
I am just looking at used boat so I have no idea what the manual recommends. The engine In question is the 6B six cylinder 330 cummins, just to clarify.
 
The manual for my year 2000 6BTA 330 says 250 hours.

My boat came with a manual pump plumbed and mounted on the engine. With the oil warm I just throw a valve and start pumping into an appropriate container. It doesn't take long—maybe 6 or 8 minutes—to empty the engine. Remove the old filter, prefill and install the new one, pour the new oil into the engine. The whole process takes maybe 30 minutes. Plus another 15 to set up and clean up.

Very easy.

Not really sure what it costs (it costs what it costs...), 1 filter and 4 gallons of oil (save half a gallon for the next oil change, the engine only needs 3.5 gallons). Definitely under $100.
 
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I will echo what others have said. An oil change is quite cheap when compared to other MX items on a boat. Are you sure you are not getting in over your head?

I have a pair of the exact same engines. The info on this thread is right on. BUT...there are certain little idiosyncracies to this engine when installed in a marine application. My first suggestion would be to go to and subscribe to www.boatdiesel.com. It is relatively cheap in the grand scheme of things. While these engines do hold about 4 gallons of oil, it is recommended by many to only put 13 quarts in...basically the bottom line on the dipstick.

More info here:
http://www.sbmar.com/Maintenance/PDF/Cummins-Oil-Pans-Dip-Sticks.pdf

And I would highly recommend you spend some time on "Tony's Tips" to get to know those engines a bit better.
 
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Actually changing oil on a Cummins 6B is just about the easiest I have done. The filter can be removed without spilling a drop. Lower it into a ziplock bag. Done.
Most of the marine ones come with a hose attached to the oil pan plug so sucking out the oil is a piece of cake.
My manual said 250 hour interval.
And I would put in the full 16 quarts. My engine was actually nose down and the boat ran pretty flat so I didn't have the issue of the engine puking out the oil as described so often in the boatdiesel site.
 
Remember the best oil changes are with a Hot engine.

Ideling at the dock may allow the oil to be thin enough to pump, but the expensive additives (you paid for) have not had the heat or circulation time to get the fines that cause the wear.

Go for a hour or 5 ride , then change the oil .

Most books will give engine hours OR time just sitting in the engine.

The lowest is the choice.
 
Services include coolant filter tests and change, on engine fuel filter change. The manual is well detailed what needs to be done. Transmission oil and filters need changing from time to time as well.
 
No coolant filter on 6B. Engine is also pretty easy on coolant, just change when cleaning heat exchanger.

Oil in typical trawler duty cycle lasts a long time. Engines often run at 25% power and oil samples show oil still in great shape at 300hrs. This is the case with my 6C, I change oil at 300hrs, or before long trips.

Actually find more problems with engines run at super low power, where oil does not heat up enough to drive out moisture and fuel residue.

Best thing to do is change oil in engine, then run it like you will for 100 or 200hrs and take a sample. Base oil change interval on that.

Oil changes are cheap on the 6B and 6C. Expensive things are aftercooler and sea water pump. The aftercooler needs maintenance, and the pumps are troublesome.
 
It will cost twice as much to change oil on two Cummins as it does for one. :blush:
 
I find the oil change is the easier part of maintenance, its getting rid of the old oil (which I sometimes hold in my garage for a while) more of a task, need to drive to dump which has a special tank to pour it in.
 
I find the oil change is the easier part of maintenance, its getting rid of the old oil (which I sometimes hold in my garage for a while) more of a task, need to drive to dump which has a special tank to pour it in.

I don't know if it is a cultural thing...but the vast majority of marinas in my area have oil dump sites in them. The real issue I have found is trying to get rid of old gas. Now that is a PIA!!! And of course some use the oil dump sites to get rid of old gas...which is a big NO NO!!!
 
Hey I appreciate all the info. I will sign up for www.boatdiesel.com. I have heard great things about them. This is a step up from my old Yanmar 54 hp diesel. But I did do all the maintenance on it and my fisher panda gen set without any major issues. I know a vessel with a larger engine will be more expensive. That is why I am asking the questions, to prepare my cruising fund. I loved the sailboat. I just got tired of being outside for the six months we take to travel from Florida up the east coast each summer. Tired of being wet, hot and bug bites. The costs that you folks have listed is great information and I will use this for my projections.
 
I find the oil change is the easier part of maintenance, its getting rid of the old oil (which I sometimes hold in my garage for a while) more of a task, need to drive to dump which has a special tank to pour it in.

No brainer for me. My son has an automotive repair shop and he heats all winter using drain oil. He has a 1200 gallon storage tank.
There are many shops in the north east that will gladly accept drain oil "donations".
 
I find the oil change is the easier part of maintenance, its getting rid of the old oil (which I sometimes hold in my garage for a while) more of a task, need to drive to dump which has a special tank to pour it in.

Auto Zone or Advance Auto takes the drain oil too. They may say they will only take 5 gallons per person on their website but I have never had a problem dropping off 15-18 gallons at a time.
 
Thanks everyone for your tips, I use/re-use Spackle buckets so I need to empty them myself and since I'm in a town marina no service area. Of course I end up have a few oil change amount stock up since I'm not a fan of the dump, but eventually I get there and drop close to 50 gallons.

Auto Zone or Advance Auto takes the drain oil too. They may say they will only take 5 gallons per person on their website but I have never had a problem dropping off 15-18 gallons at a time.
 
Sorry, I have to laugh at this one. I guess the only bad question is one that is not asked , but I just finished adjusting the valves, replacing the sea water pump and complete refurbishing of the transmission cooler, aftercooler and heat exchanger on my 330.

The best answer I can give you is the cost of an oil change is less than peanuts compared to the overall maintenance of this engine.

Im off to the boat this weekend to replace all my coolant hoses to the water heater and air handler.
 
Hey PGITug. I assume you live in PGI and have a tug? I have a Ranger 27 Tug and I also have a condo in PGI. That will be my cruising ground when I finally retire in a few years. What type of boat and how do you like cruising Charlotte Harbor? My tug has a Yanmar 180 HP and I change my own oil. Yanmar uses synthetic oil, it seems like most newer diesels are using synthetic. That makes the oil cost almost double. To have it done costs $400. I do it for under $100. and it takes me about 30 minutes. I am thinking about having an automatic oil changing system installed. I think that will be a little pricey?
 
Bligh hey another question

When you went through the coolers and heat exchangers can you tell me how many hours were on the engine, what problems you were having that caused you to do the overhauls, the process of having the work done and the associated cost of the work? About half the boats I am looking at show this work being done in the log book but the others have over 1500 hours on the engine without any color or heat exchanger work being done. Which seems like neglect to me. Appreciate your feed back on this.
 
Hey PGITug. I assume you live in PGI and have a tug? I have a Ranger 27 Tug and I also have a condo in PGI. That will be my cruising ground when I finally retire in a few years. What type of boat and how do you like cruising Charlotte Harbor? My tug has a Yanmar 180 HP and I change my own oil. Yanmar uses synthetic oil, it seems like most newer diesels are using synthetic. That makes the oil cost almost double. To have it done costs $400. I do it for under $100. and it takes me about 30 minutes. I am thinking about having an automatic oil changing system installed. I think that will be a little pricey?

Chester 613 you will have a great time cruising SW Florida with the boat you own. I just sold my 41 sailboat and am researching her power boat replacement. When you get down here research the boat clubs and join the one that you like the best. It is a great way to see the area.
 
When you went through the coolers and heat exchangers can you tell me how many hours were on the engine, what problems you were having that caused you to do the overhauls, the process of having the work done and the associated cost of the work? About half the boats I am looking at show this work being done in the log book but the others have over 1500 hours on the engine without any color or heat exchanger work being done. Which seems like neglect to me. Appreciate your feed back on this.

Servicing the after coolers is a preventative maintenance item. Hopefully you have no symptoms related to a failing after cooler. The after coolers on these engines are sea water cooled. If am after cooler is failing/leaking, it is introducing seawater directly into the intake of your engine. Hence the very stringent maintenance interval of this item. I think it is somewhere in the 2-4 year range depending on the salinity of your area and how paranoid you are...;). I will do mine at 3 years. Yes, not doing this maintenance would be considered neglect. You should be able to tell if it was EVER done based on the condition of the paint around the nuts and bolts of these items. It is very possible to do this maintenance yourself. I think it is on Seaboard's web page under "Tony's Tips". If not it is on boat diesel.com. I do not do my own. It will cost between $800-$1000 to have someone do them. That is for them to come down and remove them and take them to the shop, service them and then re install. It is possible to see symptoms of a failing after cooler upon disassembly before it does any damage to your engine. In this case, you would replace the entire after cooler.....around $2000 a piece.
 
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Aftercooler Maintenance - Cummins

At the very least, that link will educate you on what an after cooler actually is. If you notice, once the cooler is off, it is fairly straight forward. Getting to mine...at least the port side, is a PIA, and the reason I let someone else do it. If I were cruising, I would do it myself!
 
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Another point about "regular" maintenance of coolers....if you wait too long, they may not come apart easily, or they may not come apart at all depending on what materials they are.

I take mine off every 2 or 3 years and clean them myself, inspect repair if necessary and paint. That pattern has worked for me. I have a single engine so it's not all that hard to get to any of them.
You'll find pieces of broken zincs, grass even though there is a strainer, other unidentified crusty stuff, etc. I even discovered I had a broken mounting bracket once...the weld/braze had failed (the hoses were holding it in place!).:eek:
You also get the opportunity to look behind the coolers and inspect those areas.
 
Servicing the after coolers is a preventative maintenance item. Hopefully you have no symptoms related to a failing after cooler. The after coolers on these engines are sea water cooled. If am after cooler is failing/leaking, it is introducing seawater directly into the intake of your engine. Hence the very stringent maintenance interval of this item. I think it is somewhere in the 2-4 year range depending on the salinity of your area and how paranoid you are...;). I will do mine at 3 years. Yes, not doing this maintenance would be considered neglect. You should be able to tell if it was EVER done based on the condition of the paint around the nuts and bolts of these items. It is very possible to do this maintenance yourself. I think it is on Seaboard's web page under "Tony's Tips". If not it is on boat diesel.com. I do not do my own. It will cost between $800-$1000 to have someone do them. That is for them to come down and remove them and take them to the shop, service them and then re install. It is possible to see symptoms of a failing after cooler upon disassembly before it does any damage to your engine. In this case, you would replace the entire after cooler.....around $2000 a piece.


Understand what you are saying. Great info. I did the heat exchanger on my sailboat. These are obviously much larger, but same principle. Also thanks for the estimated cost of service/parts.
 
We also have a 330 6BTA on our 34 American Tug. I serviced the aftercooler myself using a kit from Sbmarine shortly after purchasing the boat last summer. After reading "Tony's tips" thoroughly regarding these coolers, I felt confident enough to go it alone.

It took a bit of persuading to get the cooler core out out using a wooden block and light taps with a small hammer. It was quick work to clean it and reinstall. The Metalube that is included in the kit should make the next cleaning that much easier to remove the core.

I would highly recommend saving the money and do the aftercooler service yourself.



Secret Egret
2003 34 American Tug
 

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