What's the name of that part?

I noticed some rust this morning. Not sure if it's corroded all the way but it sure doesn't look good. Is it expensive to replace?

I believe you are looking at the shower head where the raw water is injected into the exhaust stream.

Americal Diesel should be able to help you. Look them up on the net or call them

http://www.amerdsl.com/

Hiya,
** I did one about 5 or 6 years ago to the tune of $150 with gasket.* American Diesel had one to me in three days.* I brazed a patch over hole in the old one and kept it as a spare...just in case.* I may have thrown some JB weld on it as well on the outside????* Can't fully remember.
** From the picture there seems to be some corrosion on the top of the heat exchanger so I would guess, yes you do have a leak.

-- Edited by RT Firefly on Saturday 13th of November 2010 04:31:37 PM

Replaced mine last year I think it was on the order of $180, AD does have the part (Exhaust elbow).* You really don't want to lose your heat exchanger due to corrosion, check the zinc on the left side of the exchanger. When you replace the exhaust elbow replace the gasket and put gasket sealer on as well. The exhaust manifold is prone to rust through due to the end gasket failing. A new manifold is going to set you back over 2 boat bucks just for the part, ouch!

www.mesamarine.com/

Always take a look here for usually better than OEM.

Better price and quality.

FF didn't you get the live link memo

www.mesamarine.com

Just talked to Bryan at AD. The part is between $140 and $175 depending if it's 3 or 3.5 inch. Not bad at all.

I quickly tried to unscrew the bolts last weekend and 3 of them were pretty thight. Didn't want to run the risk of breaking them in place so I didn't push it. Any trick I should know about?

You might want to heat them up with a paint stripping gun and let them cool. The expansion/contraction might loosen things up.

Fotoman wrote:I quickly tried to unscrew the bolts last weekend and 3 of them were pretty thight. Didn't want to run the risk of breaking them in place so I didn't push it. Any trick I should know about?

Click to expand...

Soak the bolts in PB Blaster for a few hours. Do it again and let soak overnight. Maybe even do it again. Then try to tighten the bolts a bit (don't come on too hard). Then try to loosen them, but again not too hard. If they don't budge, do it all over. Patience is the key. Heat works too, sometimes in conjuntion with this procedure.


-- Edited by dwhatty on Monday 15th of November 2010 04:24:00 PM

Hiya,
** I would suggest a slighly more aggressive application of heat with a propane torch.* Not red hot mind you but hotter than a heat gun.

Heat the casing not the bolts.**You want to expand the metal around the bolt.**Not expand the bolt.
*If you don't want to use heat.**Try some penetrating oil. Apply the oil let it set for a while.**Then tap the*bolt with a ball peen hammer to set up some vibrations it works a lot of the time.

SD

Hiya,
* SD is totaly correct.* Heat the casing.* Sorry I was so vague.

-- Edited by RT Firefly on Monday 15th of November 2010 06:45:25 PM

Kroplls or PB Blaster , a couple of douches for a few days FIRST!

Thanks. I never heard of PB Blaster. I'll give it a try. Is it the same as WD-40?

-- Edited by Fotoman on Tuesday 16th of November 2010 09:00:26 AM

Is it the same as WD-40?

NO its a better penetrant.

Fotoman wrote:

Thanks. I never heard of PB Blaster. I'll give it a try. Is it the same as WD-40?

-- Edited by Fotoman on Tuesday 16th of November 2010 09:00:26 AM

Click to expand...

WD-40 isn't really a rust penetrate, the WD stands for "Water Displacement" and has a history dating back to the early days of the space program.*

*

skipperdude wrote:Heat the casing not the bolts.

Click to expand...

Heat the bolts, not the flange. The bolts are stuck because there is a layer of corrosion between the threads of the bolt and the flange, It is a good insulator and you will not heat the flange enough to do much good without causing a lot of other problems, it is a huge heat sink.

You literally can heat the bolts to red hot without damaging the flange and they will back out with little if any resistance while in that condition. Heat is your friend, treat it with respect but don't fear it. More problems have been caused by not heating it enough before torquing it.

PB blaster is good but expect a smokescreen when it's used on a very hot bolt. Beeswax is even better for a very hot bolt as it does not burn off.

Thanks Rick,

I did not know that.**Very interesting.
I have used heat on auto exhaust manifolds and always heated the nut.

You would think that you would want the casing to expand and the bolt to stay neutral. I had not considered the heat sink. Enlightening
*Does make sense.
I also have used the oven and freezer to press on bearings. Shaft in the freez bearing in the oven at 400 deg. That works perfect.

SD

Thanks Rick, I will try that!