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Old 01-27-2015, 03:05 PM   #5
C lectric
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City: Gibsons, B.C., Canada
Vessel Name: Island Pride
Vessel Model: Palmer 32'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,414
As for low suphur fuel I have to question that. I have had a Dickinson for 30 yrs now and the last 15 it has been getting low suphur fuel as that is all that has been available. No trouble as long as basic mtce. and cleaning periodially is done.

The only time I have had trouble like you describe is from the following:

-low fuel delivery from clogging inline filter or junk in the tank plugging the line

-If you do not have a filter then FF may be dead on as the trash may have gummed up the oil control valve.

-Puffing is indicative of too cool a burn, lack of fuel, or lack of air from a poor draft.

- Carbon buildup in fuel delivery port at base of burner which throttles fuel to the burner. This port MUST be kept clear. There is a plug in the tee that should be removed and the carbon reamed out from time to time. I also use a screwdriver from the burner side to do this . Low fire burning will increase this buildup rate. I got caught this last summer when I forgot about that little detail. Unless you do a lot of low heat burning this should only need attention once or twice a year.

-Burner air holes need to be poked out periodically or they may restrict air entry. There are about 30 holes around the burner pot in several layers.

-Fan may need to be used. I found many years ago that the continuous use of the fan made a huge difference in clean burning. Run at a low level, you do not want a blowtorch.


This next bit is for later once you sort out the current problem.
-when you look through the sight glass, you should be able to see through, the flame should be pulsing above the top ring. If not then the burner fuel setting is too low, the burner too cool, and not burning cleanly and will soot the interior and stack.

I use a small amount of alcohol in the burner pot to start. Put in ~2 ounces from a flip top squeeze bottle , then light half a paper towel and drop it in ensuring the alcohol catches, shut the lid and quickly turn on the fan for a positive air supply of the lack of draft will use the oxygen in the pot and then go out. Also of course turn on the fuel. As the alcohol burns the diesel takes its place and heats the pot for a good burn. The alcohol burns much more readily than cold diesel for easier, cleaner start with a whole lot less puffing out. The flip top bottle is easy to control and aim and almost foolproof since you do not want to spill any.

Something to consider. Behind the stove face and door assembly, at least on mine, is a small plate below the oven. It needs to be removed and the carbon buildup scraped out. . When i first did mine, someone told me as it was not in the manual, I had a lot. If heavy enough it can cause trouble, a fire, so if you didn't know about it then take a look. I made a tiny rake out of scraps and pulled the stuff into a pan held below the opening. Buildup is slow and not every bit has to be removed, just any heavy accumulation.

I periodically turn my stove up quite a bit so it gets really hot to clear out the interior. Good burning will show a whitish colour on the bricks and the sight glass will be dead clear.

We ALLWAYS prop the doors, both, open unless using the oven. The burner cover door , if you have one, should also be left open to keep the oil control valve cooler.

The oven heater control handle we always leave down unless using the oven. Unnecessary use does not heat the cabin any faster but will contribute to more sooting of the below the oven cavity.
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