Starside's Electric Conversion

The white stripe in that last photo is me not being able to afford the waterline. Not sure why they painted it here but during the next bottom paint, I'll include a blue waterline.

I'm thinking about going into the yard one day & painting that white line black. Any thoughts?

A close up of her shaft, universal gear & stuffing box. Will be interesting to see how the conversion plays this out. I'm not sure if the universal gear will be needed. ???

Another close up of that shaft & brace.

Here's that original throttle I'll be losing but intend to keep it near the helm as part of her restoration history.

This ignition panel will be replaced. The Elco motor comes with a LED panel that will be moved to the helm.

Here's the electrical panel that will also be replaced, in addition to getting a shore line Quick Charge. Right now, she has no shore line hook up.

This is Staside being towed from Jacksonville. Note her rudder. There will be an issue with her propeller speed & off-alignment. Elco has a slightly off center prop. We have yet to see how this will play out. I'll get better pics later as we get to this part of her conversion.

Okay, last one for now...in case you are missing cruising!

Here's a pic from my stern during my maiden voyage from Galesville to St. Michaels for the classic boat show last year.

The boats behind me were kind enough to convoy with me into the harbor, as they knew I was a novice & needed an escort. One is the Jubilee, which I believe is a Matthews. The other is Mary Katherine (sp?) which I believe is a Trumpy.

Starside, the conversion and other work is looking great! I am looking forward to seeing Starside again at St. Michaels this year.

Fantastic thread! Thanks for sharing your process. A vessel worthy of saving!

Great work! You are making progress. Looking forward to watch it all come together. Thanks much for sharing!

If electric motor can handle thrust load from prop, consider getting rid of the hard mounted thrust bearing and ujoint kit, and putting motor on soft mounts. Vibrations from the prop and motor will get transferred into hull structure through the thrust bearing. Quieter if motor and prop shaft are floating.

Ski in NC said:

If electric motor can handle thrust load from prop, consider getting rid of the hard mounted thrust bearing and ujoint kit, and putting motor on soft mounts. Vibrations from the prop and motor will get transferred into hull structure through the thrust bearing. Quieter if motor and prop shaft are floating.

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Yes, they are already talking about removing the prop, etc., & going with what Elco is recommending. Part of it is trying to save what we can to keep costs down but we also want a smooth transition.

Here's a pic of the mount.

One more pic of the mount here.

Here's a close up of where the engine is going in.

Another close up of the Elco engine as it arrived in the box. It will take a while for them to install it. I think the first process is to hook it up on the work bench first before installing it. If all goes well in the shop & it's running independently, then it gets installed. I'm not sure if they do the electrical panels first before the engine goes in, but once I know, I'll post. This process will take a few months. We are hoping to do the sea trials in April.

Those mounts look like the ones usually spec'd for much heavier gasoline and diesel engines, and do not have much "flex". To minimize noise, mounts must be carefully selected using motor weight, thrust and torque to keep it "floating" slightly. There are many much better mounts out there, one brand I have used with success is "Metalastic", their site has the charts needed to properly spec.

As others have indicated, Thanks for sharing.

This is a very interesting journey you are undertaking!

thanks for keeping us updated. Does the motor well get its own bilge pump?

Thank you for sharing with us this very interesting conversion. Sounds like you have done a lot of research and been asking the right questions. I am looking forward to more pics and reading about Starside's progress.

Ski in NC said:

Those mounts look like the ones usually spec'd for much heavier gasoline and diesel engines, and do not have much "flex". To minimize noise, mounts must be carefully selected using motor weight, thrust and torque to keep it "floating" slightly. There are many much better mounts out there, one brand I have used with success is "Metalastic", their site has the charts needed to properly spec.

Click to expand...

I think the yard & Elco have both chosen the mounts for the project. One issue was the size of the engine & well to ensure it all fit. I recall a discussion about it being too tall, so it's possible they chose this mount to keep the profile lower. I will ask about this cuz that's a good question...

bayview said:

thanks for keeping us updated. Does the motor well get its own bilge pump?

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Not that I'm aware of. My bilge pump is located under the stairs going into cabin. My water collects midship...that is, it drains to the cabin floor & builds up from the center, so the stairs will flood before the engine compartment. I also have another bilge pump directly in the bilge.

As an old boat, she always has water in her bilge. Drives me crazy!

I'll ask about a separate pump in the well but I do recall a discussion about where the water flows & builds up. It's mostly rain water that collects in the bilge but I also keep her in a covered slip.

I'll inquire -thanks for the tip.

a dry bilge in a wood boat may be impossible. In the old days shipwrights installed salt shelves under the deck near the devil plank so that rainwater would wash salt into the hull sides and bilge. The thinking was that wood rotted less in salt water than fresh. Is it true? I don't know.

bayview said:

a dry bilge in a wood boat may be impossible. In the old days shipwrights installed salt shelves under the deck near the devil plank so that rainwater would wash salt into the hull sides and bilge. The thinking was that wood rotted less in salt water than fresh. Is it true? I don't know.

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I've been told that water in the bilge is not a bad thing, that wood likes to remain in humid conditions & my bilge is covered in this black tar like substance that protects it. Re saltwater vs rain water, I have been told rain water does more damage - I think it rots wood faster if you're not on top of it. On the other hand, I've read that woodies do better in fresh water than cruised in salt water. On the Chesapeake, I'm in briney water on the rivers although some are fresh, like the Potomac near DC.

Anyway, i find the salt wash to be fascinating. I also read in Brightwork that the best way to clean teak is just to wash with salt water! So this may be accurate. I'll know over time...

The idea of salt wash for teak probably comes from the sailing ship days where sailors would scrub the decks with ocean water and bricks. They were on their knees so it was called holy stoning the deck.


Unless you plan that level of work just letting teak bleach in sun will turn it gray/silver. Much easier than a zillion coats of varnish.

Fascinating, Bayview.
I have a book called Brightwork by Rebecca Wittman. She has a good reputation & since I have so much varnishing to do, I got her book & plan to follow her advice. Re teak, she says never varnish & just a light wash of salt water with a soft rag. I think I'll try that & go thru the book to do my own varnish work. It's a bit daunting but I think I'm up for it!

My yard just sent me this image of the Control box. The carpenter/shipwright at the yard custom made this for my boat. It's beautiful...

Motor set on rails!

Motor set with the water protection pan in place...

Getting there. Progress!