Engine room camera to iPad display

@Kevin. Just ordered a cradlepoint and an Ethernet switch. Next stop will be verizon store after it comes.

I have 3 new holes in my overhead lower helm console. Dead and obsolete SSB, loran and crt plotter.

Probably some flat displays of mounted tablets going in to use for cameras and satcom. I am leaning towards Inmarsat setup for heading South and to Caribbean.

I can imagine using all the steel from a coming paravane setup like Jwitzel for antennas and solar. Good thing a have a few years to get all this done.

Codger2 said:

Is there a camera (wireless) that will talk to my iPad? (Preferably 12v) I don't need to monitor it any where other than when I'm on the boat. This is the ER cam I have now but it is cabled.

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Yes, there are WiFi cameras that you can control and view with an app on your wife's iPad (or do you have your own now?) without being connected to the Internet via a WiFi shore access point or cell. You do need an onboard router though, as far as I can tell.

The 12v question is one that I need an answer to as I want to install a Foscam or D-Link WiFi engine room camera before we take an extended trip this sping. I have emailed both companies asking how one would hook up these cameras and WiFi routers to a boat's 12v system. No answer from either yet.

But both of these companies' WiFi cameras and routers seem to be powered by 5v DC through an AC to DC adapter.

My principal unanswered question is whether one can use DC/DC 12v to 5v (3amp?) step down converters to wire these cameras and routers to the boat's 12v system (using appropriate switches and fuses).

Maybe I'm making this more complicated than it is. An I missing something simple? Or something obvious from previous posts?

So question to you tech knowledgeable TF members: how exactly does/can one hook this stuff up to be powered by the boat's 12v DC?

One more question to those that have engine room cameras installed: does one need a camera with zoom function to be able to clearly read the dial on a Racor filter gauge located about 6' from the camera?

If you have more than one camera, find a suitable camera with POE, and get a 12vdc (or 24vdc) POE switch. That will send power over ethernet so all you need to do is run one Cat5 cable from the POE switch port to the camera, and then plug one of the switch ports into your internet gateway.

Otherwise, there are lots of DC to DC converts (Amazon has some, as well as Ebay, etc).

Pick the voltage and amperage requirements of your camera(s) and select a converter. It is much more efficient to use DC to DC rather than their AC wall warts and have to invert DC to AC then back to DC...

Stu

My rule was that the only wire allowed was a power wire. I didn't want POE because then you'd have to run that ethernet cable up to the pilothouse too.

Many of these cameras run on 5v with a 120vAC power adapter. In most cases, a 12v-USB converter is a very inexpensive way to get 5v out of a 12v house bank. It might take some wire splicing to re-use the power connector for the camera but that's pretty simple wiring. Reversing polarity is a good way to fry the camera.

Ok, about the cameras.

While POE would be a great power source, the cameras I bought don't have POE capability. Dlink does make POE cameras, but they are not as popular since they require running cables, where the wifi models just need to be plugged in.

You could also use a 12 volt powered 5 volt power supply if that's what the cameras require.

Personally I just plugged in my cameras. I have utility outlets in the engine room already so plugging in the camera made for a very easy installation.

As far as using the cameras without an Internet connection, that is easy. You still need a wireless router though. The camera is assigned an IP address. All you do to access the camera is to point your browser to that IP address adn you're good to go.

If you have an AC outlet in the engine room just use that & don't fuss over inverter losses.. ..you will be using the camera while underway & the batteries are being charged by your alts then anyway. Keep it wireless if you can & avoid running ethernet or USB cables.

Have an inverter and an AC outlet in the engine room about 10' away. But I'd rather use 12v. Found these step down converters that look like they might do the job to allow me to hook both camera and router (each requiring 5v 2a) up to the boat's 12v system.

Waterproof-Voltage-Converter-modules

DW-go to powerstream.com. They make every possible dc/dc converter and they are not expensive. We actually had our flat screen TVs wired straight to the 12vdc system using dc/dc converters as most LED TVs are 9-12 vdc internal (they have an internal step down for 120vac to their internal dc voltage/amperage. Other than some kitchen appliances, we have everything 12vdc now.

Agree those step-down converters will work just fine

Many thanks to the last two posts.

dwhatty said:

Have an inverter and an AC outlet in the engine room about 10' away. But I'd rather use 12v. Found these step down converters that look like they might do the job to allow me to hook both camera and router (each requiring 5v 2a) up to the boat's 12v system.

Waterproof-Voltage-Converter-modules

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Let me know what you end up with as I plan on going this route as well.

jleonard said:

Let me know what you end up with as I plan on going this route as well.

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Just ordered those step down converters as well as a Foscam camera and router. Won't be able to hook it all up til sometime in March though when the weather gets (almost) warm enough to work inside the covered boat on a sunny day. Still need to get switches and wire.

I feel like an electrican. New heavy inverter wiring. New upper and lower helm outlets. Powering garmin wifi, intel NUC, cradlepoint wireless router, and verizon Jet. Topped off with a D-Link cam at a temp spot in my engine room. Voila: a view of my preps for coming oil change . This pic is live from my iphone D-link app

denloe1 said:

I feel like an electrican. New heavy inverter wiring. New upper and lower helm outlets. Powering garmin wifi, intel NUC, cradlepoint wireless router, and verizon Jet. Topped off with a D-Link cam at a temp spot in my engine room. Voila: a view of my preps for coming oil changeView attachment 38788. This pic is live from my iphone D-link app

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See how easy that was!!!

Excellent job!

Nice job.

That orange anti-chafe piece you have wire tied to a hose in the picture, where did you get that? I'm looking for some and I can't seem to find it. Thanks.

Consider the LiveCAmPro app. I use it with my 3 dlinks, and 2 axis cams. Much better app than DLink in my opinion. took me a while to mess with the motion detection and email to fine tune, but I have a good little security system now.


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nautibeaver said:

Consider the LiveCAmPro app. I use it with my 3 dlinks, and 2 axis cams. Much better app than DLink in my opinion. View attachment 38795 took me a while to mess with the motion detection and email to fine tune, but I have a good little security system now.


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How does the app talk to the cameras when you are away from the boat? Do you need a static IP and use PAT, or does it take advantage of Dlinks camera to server link?

On the anti chafe it was done by prior owner. I save bike inner tubes to cut flat rubber from. That stuff is thicker, maybe rubber floor tile? Also for less flexible electrical covering I bought gutter cover heavy PVC at Home Depot to cut flat pieces from. I have a better panel mount volt meter coming and will be moving the thermometer to the front of genset above the fuel manifold.

I will check out the security cam app when I get more cams. What I really want is a 24x optical zoom PTZ for the top of the mast. That I can see on the Garmin or high Rez on the PC monitor. Essentially duplicating the type 18 periscope I used and loved for my years on the USS Flying Fish. 40 feet up with high power optics lets you figure out lots of stuff early.

ksanders said:

How does the app talk to the cameras when you are away from the boat? Do you need a static IP and use PAT, or does it take advantage of Dlinks camera to server link?

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Port forwarding to routers IP (it does not change that often. The DLinks can be setup with DynamicDnS though pretty easily.


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