Dual Racors

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cardude01

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Nov 26, 2012
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Location
USA
Vessel Name
Bijou
Vessel Make
2008 Island Packet PY/SP
My new to me boat only has one Racor before it gets to the Yanmar (4Jh4-HTE) fuel filter. Generator has its own Racor. I notice most boats on this forum seem to have a dual Racor (or whatever brand) setup. I'm a diesel novice.

If I'm planning on doing mostly coastal cruising for now (but probably the Bahamas soon), do I need the dual filter setup? Is the only advantage of this setup to be able to switch to a good filter while underway ?

It has a single fuel tank if that matters. No fuel polishing setup. Has an electric prime pump installed by the builder but it doesn't currently work.
 
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Greetings,
Mr. 01. " Is the only advantage of this setup to be able to switch to a good filter while underway ?" That's the only advantage as far as I can figure out. We have only 1 Racor before each Lehman. Changing filter elements on ours is quite straightforward while underway as access is very good. I've done so on several occasions.
 
I have only one Racor in front of the engines and genset. My vessel is with 12 year old tanks and clean, knock on wood. I figured once I got to where my Racor would start plugging up and showing vacuum I'd install a "spare."

So far no vacuum and no need for a "spare." If I filled up where bad fuel were a known issue I'd replace the Racors with a 3 stage Seaboard Marine setup and spare on the primary.
 
Particles measured in microns can clog fuel injectors and cause engine problems while underway. The dual setup is more than being able to change to a good filter while underway, its about helping to avoid engine problems or shutdowns while underway.

Without a fuel polisher you have no way of maintaining the fuel in prime condition. All that will fall to your Racor filter realistically. Likely, the time to have a fuel issue will be in rough weather when all contaminants in your tank are getting really stirred up. In those conditions, being able to flip a valve and have a pristine filter that could restore your engine has some advantages. Of course, with routine monitoring you'll switch to the clean filter before it comes to that :)

Also keep in mind that you have no way of monitoring the status of the engine mounted filter.

There's no ultimate right or wrong, it boils down to complexity vs. redundancy and your comfort level. Personally I like my dual racors for my main and genest. If I didn't have them I would be installing them.
 
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My last two boats, a 45' Californian with twin DD's and a 42' Nordic Tug with a single Cummins had only one Racor per engine. I carried plenty of spare filters changed the frequently...like every 70 to 80 hours. I only had one incident of a clogged filter and it gave warning by slowing down the engine when it was at planing rpm's. The engine never actually quit. I always wanted remote vacuum gauges but never got around to it.

My current boat came with dual Racors for each engine and vacuum gauges in the salon. My wife watches them when we are going fast. You need to be winding up the rpm's pretty good to get an accurate vacuum reading. I have never had to switch from one filter to the other. I still change the one I am using fairly often and switch to the other one.

My feelings about this issue are that I like my current set up but did not mind the frequent filter changes on the previous boats either. You can buy a lot of spare filters for the price of a dual Racor rig with remote vacuum gauges.
 
Not intending to start another filter discussion (aka argument LOL) my boat came with dual Racors installed by the previous owner.
It was great for my maiden delivery trip because the filters clogged often and it was really handy to be able to change under duress.
However, as soon as I got to my home port, I installed a larger Racor upstream and went to the multi filtration system. 30 micron to 10 micron then on to the engine mounted filters.
I haven't clogged a filter since in 7 plus seasons and thousands of miles.

So that is certainly another possible system to consider.

Here is what it looks like
 

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How often should one change the engine filter?

I need to install a vacuum gauge on that single Racor at least I guess so I can see the clog status, right? Is that an easy install?
 
Dual filter Racor would be a good idea as your boat is a single and your engine is in a tight space as I recall. You already probably have dual filters as your engine has a filter mounted on it and you no doubt have a bulkhead mounted Racor. Replacing that Racor in rough conditions and possibly having to bleed the system to restart would not be fun while rolling around in a seaway. I have twin engines and have changed filters as a precaution while underway in rough conditions, even with the ability to maintain course and speed in rough conditions it was not fun.
 
Not intending to start another filter discussion (aka argument LOL) my boat came with dual Racors installed by the previous owner.
It was great for my maiden delivery trip because the filters clogged often and it was really handy to be able to change under duress.
However, as soon as I got to my home port, I installed a larger Racor upstream and went to the multi filtration system. 30 micron to 10 micron then on to the engine mounted filters.
I haven't clogged a filter since in 7 plus seasons and thousands of miles.

So that is certainly another possible system to consider.

Here is what it looks like


That's slick, but I don't have enough room in my engine "compartment" for that. Need a small setup if I go to two filters.

Maybe something like this. The "double double"? $400?
http://www.sbmar.com/smx-fueltration-system-kits.php
 
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Just a side note

Not intending to start another filter discussion (aka argument LOL) my boat came with dual Racors installed by the previous owner.
It was great for my maiden delivery trip because the filters clogged often and it was really handy to be able to change under duress.
However, as soon as I got to my home port, I installed a larger Racor upstream and went to the multi filtration system. 30 micron to 10 micron then on to the engine mounted filters.
I haven't clogged a filter since in 7 plus seasons and thousands of miles.

So that is certainly another possible system to consider.

Here is what it looks like

One of the things you have to keep in mind with Racor filter size is fuel system velocity. You need sufficient fuel velocity for the centrifugal separation of particles and water. Sometimes smaller is better.
 
My new to me boat only has one Racor before it gets to the Yanmar (4Jh4-HTE) fuel filter. Generator has its own Racor. I notice most boats on this forum seem to have a dual Racor (or whatever brand) setup.

It only takes a little bit of plumbing to arrange the supply so that the main engine can be run from its own filter, or from the generator filter. (Check the generator primary filter is an adequate size, but this is not usually a problem)

It would be a worthwhile option for minimal cost and effort.

It allows to keep the engine running while changing filters, it also allows for easier troubleshooting (the engine primary filter can be eliminated as a cause of problems).

If you get a diesel bug problem even new primary filters can clog very quickly.
 
How often should one change the engine filter?

I need to install a vacuum gauge on that single Racor at least I guess so I can see the clog status, right? Is that an easy install?

hehe, as often as they clog :). You do have an option to remove that filter and go with two remote filters with gauges. Overkill probably, but it is an option.

Yes, I would install the gauge by the racor. I've not done one but it seems simple enough. It'll take all the guesswork out and you'll know that engine mounted filter has been getting clean fuel.

Seriously, regarding how often to change the engine mounted filter, look at the engine manual. I think diff engines will have different tolerances, the people who wrote the manual weren't guessing, go by what they say, or more often if you like.
 
It only takes a little bit of plumbing to arrange the supply so that the main engine can be run from its own filter, or from the generator filter. (Check the generator primary filter is an adequate size, but this is not usually a problem)

It would be a worthwhile option for minimal cost and effort.

It allows to keep the engine running while changing filters, it also allows for easier troubleshooting (the engine primary filter can be eliminated as a cause of problems).

If you get a diesel bug problem even new primary filters can clog very quickly.


Well this seems like an interesting, low budget idea.
 
How often should one change the engine filter?

I need to install a vacuum gauge on that single Racor at least I guess so I can see the clog status, right? Is that an easy install?

Not that difficult if you can run the tubing to a place where you can easily see it while underway. I would caution against replacing the "T" handle on the filter itself with a vacuum gauge because in order to read it you have to go into the engine room with the engine at fairly high rpm. I put the "T" handle gauges on my Californian and was not comfortable crawling between a couple of screaming 6-71 TIB's to read them.
 
OK, I got off my lazy arse and looked it up. Yanmar recommends changing the engine filter every 250 hours or at least every year.

Thanks for all the great info everyone, as usual. One of these years maybe I'll have some boat wisdom I can pass on. Will probably be "don't do what I did" type of info however.

I like that long hose idea for the vac gauge. I would have to stand on my head to read a gauge mounted on the filter itself. Maybe I can run a hose up to the pilothouse. Will the vacuum collapse a long hose?
 
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One of the things you have to keep in mind with Racor filter size is fuel system velocity. You need sufficient fuel velocity for the centrifugal separation of particles and water. Sometimes smaller is better.

True, but the large capacity of the course filter is what I was after there. It has been working fine.
 
Cardude,
The Seaboard Marine system is the best that I have used including several Racor systems.
 
Cardude- Have you run the boat enough to get an idea whether you have a dirty tank? Best way is to look inside the tank if possible, or take boat out in some chop and bounce it with tank less than full. Stir up tank and then come back and change racor. Look at it and see how much gunk it built up.

If tank is clean, can't see much need to install a dual. I run a single on mine and it has never clogged. I change it once a year or so.

If tank is dirty, the duals can be a godsend.
 
OK, I got off my lazy arse and looked it up. Yanmar recommends changing the engine filter every 250 hours or at least every year.

Thanks for all the great info everyone, as usual. One of these years maybe I'll have some boat wisdom I can pass on. Will probably be "don't do what I did" type of info however.

I like that long hose idea for the vac gauge. I would have to stand on my head to read a gauge mounted on the filter itself. Maybe I can run a hose up to the pilothouse. Will the vacuum collapse a long hose?

Racor specifies a max recommended length.

Here is a site that I looked at when I was considering a gauge for my tug;

NENTOA Fuel line vacuum gauge
 
Cardude- Have you run the boat enough to get an idea whether you have a dirty tank? Best way is to look inside the tank if possible, or take boat out in some chop and bounce it with tank less than full. Stir up tank and then come back and change racor. Look at it and see how much gunk it built up.

If tank is clean, can't see much need to install a dual. I run a single on mine and it has never clogged. I change it once a year or so.

If tank is dirty, the duals can be a godsend.


No rough water yet. I'll see if I can look in the tank but not sure it's possible. Tanks is about 1/2 full now. Boat was a repo and set up for awhile so fuel might be pretty old.

After I get it in some rough water I guess I'll change out the Racor and take a look. Thanks.
 
Don't be surprised if you clog filters often at first till you get the old fuel out. Also be on the lookout for water at the bottom of the Racor bowl. If you see it just drain it out the bottom. Easy.
 
Particles measured in microns can clog fuel injectors and cause engine problems while underway. The dual setup is more than being able to change to a good filter while underway, its about helping to avoid engine problems or shutdowns while underway.

Without a fuel polisher you have no way of maintaining the fuel in prime condition. All that will fall to your Racor filter realistically. Likely, the time to have a fuel issue will be in rough weather when all contaminants in your tank are getting really stirred up. .

You are assuming problems that not all of us have. My single Racors has not yet shown any vacuum, and boy have I stirred up the tanks. On newer vessels many problems arise from builders debris and bad tank design. An ESI polisher as installed by Selene is not nearly as good as a day tank setup of polished fuel ala Nordhavn IMHO.

Fuel polishers are no panacea. I've first hand knowledge of a Nordhavn being shutdown by tank growth and a Selene being towed in due to construction debris in the tank bottoms. So right you are, close monitoring is essential.

I have four tanks on my vessel. One tank, good for about 150 miles if full, is polished with a dedicated pump and filter by drawing from the bottom tank sump arrangement thus no crap or debris should reside in it. Never yet has it been needed - it is dedicated to my diesel heater as well.

My favorite system if I were to modify, would be like Jay's shown above. Simple and cheap.
 
Here is an excerpt from some friends of mine who are cruising the coat in a Nordhaven 47. This might influence your decision on multiple selectable filtering:

"With weather forecasted to turn in our favor, rounding the peninsula to La Paz would take 23.5 hours. During the first leg (10 hours) seas were on our nose with 4-6 foot waves. The hobby horse ride did a good job of stirring up our 4 fuel tanks. During our trip south we typically transfer what fuel will be needed and then some (say 30% more) out of our storage tanks to a tank used as our primary operating fuel tank. The transfer of fuel to the operating tank allows for additional filtration of the fuel before it is pulled through a primary and secondary filter prior to use. For no good reason on this trip, we deviated from the norm and chose to take fuel from one of the storage tanks increasing our risk of failure. As fate would have it the primary fuel filter plugged. At 9 pm without warning the main motor, a John Deere/Lugger died. We were 2.5 miles off shore in pitching seas, 20+ knots of wind and an opposing current. Without hesitation the “wing engine” was started and used to hold our bow into the seas. At 2,500 rpm’s the little 30 horse power Yanmar, 3 cylinder motor with its folding prop pushed us along at 1.8 knots. We were safe so long as the wing motor continued running. Suspecting the problem was fuel related the thought of losing our wing motor was a real possibility. After switching over to the backup for the primary filter and bleeding the system of air the main motor was back up and purring. At 1475 rpms, given the sea conditions, the big Lugger was providing a 6.3 knot cruising speed. It would take several hours however, for our adrenaline to calm and one of us to get the required rest before a shift change at midnight

The prior month in Santa Barbara we took on 400 gallons of contaminated fuel. We were a bit peeved to find that we took on contaminated fuel in the US as we purposely took on the extra fuel so that we would not have to take fuel on in Mexico thinking that we would be avoiding the fuel contamination issue. Anyway, to kill the algae now growing in our fuel all of the fuel was treated with a biocide additive. The dead algae particles then settled to the bottom of our fuel storage tanks. That and any other contamination missed when we had theses tanks cleaned in British Columbia was now suspended throughout the fuel. So we took multiple days in La Paz opening up all the fuel tanks, scrubbing them out with a mop and polishing the fuel down to 2 microns into the clean tanks as we worked our way around cleaning all 4 fuel tanks.
We have unexpectedly come to rely on the little Yanmar “wing” engine twice during the last year. And, if ever asked “yes” we are sold on having an alternative propulsion system or wing/get home system as they are often referred to."
 
????

Holy $@&#. That would seriously suck. I have no wing.

Can one test for algae? My boat was built in 2008 so not super old.
 
????

Holy $@&#. That would seriously suck. I have no wing.

Can one test for algae? My boat was built in 2008 so not super old.

Make up a dip tube out of copper tubing that is long enough to go to the bottom of your tank, the you'll know what if anything is lurking down there. This assumes you have access through the tank fill in a straight shot.
 
Cardude,
The Seaboard Marine system is the best that I have used including several Racor systems.

I agree. It is top notch.
I would have gone that way but I had a free Racor 900 series unit in my boat supply cabinet, so my cost was only fittings and hose.
 
That's why I'm an advocate of the dual filter setup with a vacuum gauge and routine monitoring. It may be a problem many of us don't have, till we do. I have been in similar circumstances and seen the vacuum gauge steadily build pressure. Nice to throw the valve to the new filter and change clogged element with the engine not skipping a beat.

My understanding is that algae grow on the interface between diesel and water in a tank. Maintaining tanks full, especially when the boat will be idle for a longer period, keeps the available space for condensation to a minimum and helps prevent growth. Chemical additives are also both readily available and helpful in those circumstances.

I don't know about a test, but you can see it, just google algae in diesel and check out images.
 
^^ If you can drain the water out of your tank, the bugs will not grow.
 
Dual Racors are nice to have; it makes for a quick changeover on the go. But I've never had a blocked fuel filter stop the engine. In my experience, I've always had some warning with revs intermittently dropping off, making it fairly obvious that a filter change is overdue.
 

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