my best storm anchor technique

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eyschulman

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I consider storm and bad weather anchoring a very different animal than my every day cruising set in protected anchorages. Over the 50+ years of my gunk holing and inland and coastal cruising I have developed some thoughts on the subject. When I anticipate a mild or moderate problem I set a light high holding second anchor from my dinghy nothing unusual. If I had to anchor out in a real blow and I had the time and gear my first choice would be what I call the Port Washington mooring rig. This set up uses three Danforth type anchors with lengths of chain joined to a strong ring which is then joined to chain and a rode. The three anchors are set at 120 degrees 1/3 of a circle with their chains extended from the center. The beauty of this system particularly in sand and mud is that you are using the anchors with the highest holding ability and at the same time avoiding their weakness relative to veering. With one rode to the bow the boat is free to face the wind. Of course nothing is perfect or will apply to all circumstances. I am curious to know what others think about this system and what they use.
 
I hope to never anchor in a big blow....

But out of all the reasonable methods...the tandem anchoring seems to hit my button over most.

Unless on a remote island...if I had the time to use the 3 danforth mooring...I might just find a better hidey hole or just try to miss the path of the storm.

If trapped...that seems to be one of the winning methods as long as you have time to rig it and set it properly.
 
I agree with the tandem method. Use any plow anchor- Delta, CQR, etc as the first anchor and put 20' of chain behind it and connect a Fortress or Danforth. Back down real hard on the plow even to the point of dragging a bit to let the Fortress dig in. The plow will keep the rode angle flat on the Fortress so it will really dig in deep.

The plow will take care of a wind veer and if it drags after the veer the Fortress will have time to dig in and hold. The real problem with a Fortress in a sudden wind shift is that it will pull out and once it starts to skip over the bottom it will never set.

I saw a three anchor Danforth system pull out of a mooring field and drag when most mushroom mooring anchors held. I agree with the principle but in that case it didn't work.

David
 
In the Philippines on our 53 live-aboard we always set two anchors off the bow when anchoring. We launch them by hand with two deck hands. I can maneuver the boat so we can get the second anchor set to around 20
degree angle to the first. Always in the past we used home made fisherman anchors, just this year I bought a FX-37 for soft mud and a kedge. We use 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 floating poly rode. I have lots of it on board, maybe 1000 feet in different lengths. Hard to get nylon here and the poly is cheap. I think the floating line helps to keep things from getting tangled. Sometimes we anchor in one location for several weeks and many wind changes. In a real blow we set out three anchors all on each own rode, for one thing this poly line rode gets badly UV damaged and I never really don't know how strong it is, so I don't like to put all my eggs in one basket. We usually do not have any chain, only use a short piece when in coral. We have rode out two typhoons and around three good blows. One typhoon I even had two heavy bamboo posts pounded into the bottom to tie to along with setting anchors. I see other boats drag but so far we haven't.
 
Just a short note. The three anchor mooring in a field often uses short chain between anchors often to allow for more moorings. When I contemplate this system for storm anchor use I am thinking at least 60 ft chain on each anchor. Also as with any thing there is the technique of set up. I use double line and float on each anchor to set up that way I know where my anchors are and I set each one separately before laying out the next anchor. I set the first anchor from the boat the next two from the dinghy having my mate load the anchor by backing for the set. I use the doubled trip line to hall the anchors and chain where I want them or to reset if necessary. Yes it is a bit of a PITA but I am talking risky storm where other shelter not available. Years ago when I would set this system up in the creek off my dock in the Chesapeake it would take between one and 1.5 hours to do and an equal time to undue. I always left at least one float and trip line on the help raise one so it could be brought up . This system probably would only work in 30 foot of water or less otherwise the chains would get too long and too heavy. But for a blow I prefer shallow water where my scope is better and hopefully more protected.
 
The complications of setting and retrieving such a set-up are beyond me, and doubt I would routinely carry three such anchors and their multiple rodes. ... You have my congratulations! ... I'll just keep to protected waters. (One should know their limitations.)
 
Two to Tandem: Maximizing Holding Power by Tandem Anchoring

Quote from the article.

"Danforth types including the Fortress are shocking and are absolutely to be avoided. They are not general purpose anchors, and have no place in a tandem rig."

Written by Peter Smith, the Rocna designer from NZ. I think that the advice of USA boating writer and long time cruiser Tom Neale has infinitely more value.

Please see the attachment below with a reprint from his Soundings magazine cover story, "How to Survive a Storm at Anchor."
 

Attachments

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Just a short note. The three anchor mooring in a field often uses short chain between anchors often to allow for more moorings. When I contemplate this system for storm anchor use I am thinking at least 60 ft chain on each anchor. Also as with any thing there is the technique of set up. I use double line and float on each anchor to set up that way I know where my anchors are and I set each one separately before laying out the next anchor. I set the first anchor from the boat the next two from the dinghy having my mate load the anchor by backing for the set. I use the doubled trip line to hall the anchors and chain where I want them or to reset if necessary. Yes it is a bit of a PITA but I am talking risky storm where other shelter not available. Years ago when I would set this system up in the creek off my dock in the Chesapeake it would take between one and 1.5 hours to do and an equal time to undue. I always left at least one float and trip line on the help raise one so it could be brought up . This system probably would only work in 30 foot of water or less otherwise the chains would get too long and too heavy. But for a blow I prefer shallow water where my scope is better and hopefully more protected.

I would like to see if I can put you in direct contact with Jet Matthews of Matthews Point Marina in Havelock, NC. Several years ago that state had a bulls eye on it for hurricanes, and as the owner he was directly responsible for anchoring the boats under his care for the looming storm conditions.

I believe that he developed a system similar to what you are discussing with a 3 point set up, and he used cable to insure that the anchors would slice through and bury as deeply as possible into the local mud bottoms.

I'll contact him to see if he can be helpful with specifics.

Brian
 
Wow...I am happy that the average TF member can make sense of all of this....

For all newbies to trawlering, long term cruising .....sit back and take it ALL in.....slowly and carefully...

My 1976 edition of Chapman's has the 3 Danforth mooring system in it....just in case anyone thinks it is new or original.
 
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I consider storm and bad weather anchoring a very different animal than my every day cruising set in protected anchorages. Over the 50+ years of my gunk holing and inland and coastal cruising I have developed some thoughts on the subject. When I anticipate a mild or moderate problem I set a light high holding second anchor from my dinghy nothing unusual. If I had to anchor out in a real blow and I had the time and gear my first choice would be what I call the Port Washington mooring rig. This set up uses three Danforth type anchors with lengths of chain joined to a strong ring which is then joined to chain and a rode. The three anchors are set at 120 degrees 1/3 of a circle with their chains extended from the center. The beauty of this system particularly in sand and mud is that you are using the anchors with the highest holding ability and at the same time avoiding their weakness relative to veering. With one rode to the bow the boat is free to face the wind. Of course nothing is perfect or will apply to all circumstances. I am curious to know what others think about this system and what they use.
Not so sure. I would be concerned that if you drag, the anchors could become a cluster. Probably not likely, but having, like you, thought about this, my personal opinion is that a sequential snubbing system that absorbs increasing amounts of force coupled with a large anchor on the heaviest chain you can handle is the best option. That or head to sea.
 
With our system of multiple individual anchors deployed at the same time we have the boat side secured to a heavy Sampson post and rodes can be let out or taken in fast and easily to try and keep the strain equal or at least some strain on all rodes. If one anchor drags a little bit the next anchor rode will come up tight. So what I said about dragging earlier is not 100 percent correct, however any dragging is pretty small so that I don't seem to notice if any at all occurs. The heavy rode is to also facilitate hauling the anchors aboard by hand as my deckhands are my anchor winch.
Maybe crude but, ya know, it works.
 
Three anchor system not new. I first came across it when used in Port Washington LI for a mooring system maybe 40-50 years ago. I used it for mooring in a creek on Eastern Shore of the Chesapeake maybe 25 years ago. Re; heading to sea I would agree if the boat is a well found sail boat or very seaworthy FD , but many boats considered trawlers would not give me confidence in such a situation and I would prefer doing my gamboling with a good anchorage and anchors.
 
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I think the #1 job about storm anchoring has most to do w choosing an anchorage. The biggest variable in anchoring is and always will be the bottom. Experimenting in a storm is not ideal. So a known anchorage w good holding is primary. Then there's protection from waves and swell swinging room, how many other boats are likely to seek shelter there, current, rocks, depth ect ect.

Then once the anchorage is selected choice of rode, anchor (or anchors) setting and all the other usual priorities about anchoring do apply.

In a storm I always use my favorite anchor that always holds the boat w winds over 40. Under 40 I use any of my 6 or so other anchors but only the XYZ over 40 because I started doing that and it's worked a half a dozen times.

I've never considered using more than one anchor. If I drag I'll just pick up and move back or to a better spot. Never have dragged w any anchor but don't consider it very threatening. One can just re-anchor or put the engine in gear to reduce the tension on the rode.

I consider drifting over hazards while anchored like rocks on an ebb tide much more threatening.
 
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There is a well thought out publication by the Florida Inland Navigation District called
"The Hurricane Manual for Marine Interests".


It shows two recommended anchoring techniques one of which is the three anchor system recommended by Eyschulman.
The following is from the manual.
N9GK++67r18SQvQFlBrV1KmNo27KVwghhBDZ9JvykkIIIUSzIOUrhBBCNBgpXyGEEKLBSPkKIYQQDUbKVwghhGgwUr5CCCFEg5HyFUIIIRqMlK8QQgjRYKR8hRBCiAYj5SuEEEI0GClfIYQQosFI+QohhBANRspXCCGEaDBSvkIIIUSDkfIVQgghGoyUrxBCCNFgpHyFEEKIBiPlK4QQQjQYKV8hhBCiwUj5CiGEEA1GylcIIYRoMFK+QgghRIOR8hVCCCEajJSvEEII0VCS5P8Bm9jpTeG+kb4AAAAASUVORK5CYII=



Using three anchors set 120 degrees apart allows the boat to swing and face the wind. This is an especially good technique in crowded harbors because the boat will not swing in as wide as arc as a boat that is riding on two anchors.

It doesn't look like I can get the image to post but you can see the whole publication here: http://aicw.org/pdfs/hurricane-manual.pdf
 
My plan is to find the most protected harbor/marina, anchor or tie up as best I know how, or haul out if possible. Pack my valuables and head to my favorite hotel. I worry far less about my boat than my family and my personal safety.
Howard
 
In a bad typhoon you can't even stick your head out of the cabin as the rain hits you so hard. Maybe you could with a full face motorcycle helmet or such, you can't even crawl to the bow of the boat using the hand rails. You better have your ducks in a row before the real winds hit. Never tried it but seems jogging into the wind would take the load off your ground tackle. If at night with no moon heavy overcast and hard rain you can't see 100 feet.
 
The hassle with finding a nice safe harbor is EVERYONE goes to the same spot.

The late comers WILL anchor , even if its in a spiderweb of other folks gear.

My preference is a river with good depth, and sandy/mud shores .

The wind always channels so fore and aft usually works fine.

Bigger is better , no watch fobs in a blow.
 
110 lb Bruce, 440 feet of all chain rode. Decent bottom at 50' with room to swing and drag (for peace of mind). Worked fine in sustained 40-knot winds.
 
MYTravler,
How many tons of boat per pound of anchor is that w the Bruce?
 
Shheez...between the Taras wreck and now Ed's storm anchor thread, you anchor guys are giving me the willies. My plan has been as MyTraveler, 145# Forfjord with 400' all chain through a hause, bridled (30') to massive bollards with a large loop in 50' of water. Low profile 30 tons.
Will I end up on the beach in 50 knot winds?
 
Shheez...between the Taras wreck and now Ed's storm anchor thread, you anchor guys are giving me the willies. My plan has been as MyTraveler, 145# Forfjord with 400' all chain through a hause, bridled (30') to massive bollards with a large loop in 50' of water. Low profile 30 tons.
Will I end up on the beach in 50 knot winds?
150 knots, maybe.
 
Delfin,
Did you consider the anchor?
 
My best storm anchor is an enclosed berth in an extremely well protected marina.

My second best is a Fortress FX-17 if I'm not prudent enough to be safely tucked away when things get sporty on the water.

Musings of a dedicated fair weather boater.
 
MYTravler,
How many tons of boat per pound of anchor is that w the Bruce?

100,000 pound boat (per scales last time she was hauled), so a little less than 1/2 ton per pound of anchor. I believe it is considered slightly oversized, but not dramatically so.
 
Fifty knots? I thought you guys were talking about real winds.:D
 
MYTraveler,
Interesting .. that's equivalant to 18lbs for my boat and that is what I have been anchoring w for some time. I have a Claw now that's almost twice that.
 
40 knots and over, we would rely on the forecast getting it wrong - it is after all a forecast with no guarantees. Forecasts might get bits of the detail wrong but usually there is sufficient time to find somewhere 'nearby' with sufficient protection such that the 70 knot or 40 knot forecast is actually only 35 knot or 20 knot. 40 knots and over - we would not rely on one anchor, no matter how perfect - they only need to move (set more deeply) 6". catch on a bit of submerged waterlogged wood and they will drag (maybe forever). Any anchor with an oyster shell, bit of seaweed or whatever embedded on the toe is a recipe to drag.

We would be looking for trees or rocks, and we have made a 40nm passage when 70 knots were forecast (to find the trees). We would then get as close to shore as tide allowed, tie to the trees or rocks and lay 2 anchors in a 'V'. One of the anchors, provided the seabed is appropriate (so most of them), would be an Excel the other a Fortress. We would have an alloy Spade (which would be on the foredeck) and an alloy Excel (on the transom) both ready. I have heard of people who, in the absence of trees, have buried their anchor(s) in the beach but cannot comment on the practice. If we had a bigger vessel we might have another Fortress as lugging big steel anchors around is unrealistic and in the overall - those extra anchors are not expensive. Each of our anchors is the recommended size as a main anchor for our yacht. We probably appear to carry a lot - but when you are 200nm from the nearest chandler (and everything deployed) you can wish you carried more:)

We carry sufficient 'rope' to tie to shore, have strops made up with hose pipe protection for trees and short lengths of chain to loop round rock. We carry a main rode on the windlass, all chain, and have a second rode chain and nylon. We could cobble together another 70m from mooring lines if necessary. All our spare cordage and rode is carried and neatly coiled in milk crates.

Part of the secret is having the kit, the second is getting 'there' early enough to use it all. It might seem onerous - but what else are you doing (except making bread) and if its that bad you are going to be there a while - so you may as well be comfortable.
 
'Been my experience that it is as important to be able to get your ground tackle up as it is to get it down. If you do drag or uncomfortably drift how the heck are you going to reorient that triple or double or tandem setup? And if you use all chain rode, you're gonna need snubbers and keepers that will need to be dealt with...and like someone mentioned - in a real blow you'll be wearing a hooded slicker with the hood pulled tight around everything but the swim goggles you'll need to keep your eyes open against the driving rain. And OH!, don't forget that in that type of weather you'll only occasionally have one hand to work with because you'll need to hang on to something for dear life.

OK, but I know my triple rig will hold me in anything so none of that pertains to me. Well, I thought so too, until a tangled mess of not so firmly anchored boats started drifting down on me.

In a big blow/seas, your chain will likely be testing the limits of the snubber if the snubber is sized properly, otherwise you'll be worried about the snubber exploding or jerking the cleat or windlass off the front of your boat. How are you going to manage dealing with that through swim goggles with an occasional free hand?

Big single anchor, lotta nylon scope with extra heavy nylon spliced on the bitter end of the rode for chafe protection...from my experience anyway.
 
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