New Dash Board

Oh yeah, I think I know what you mean now. Just that panel behind the gauges. That would look nice.

Thanks Larry, I was hoping you would do that for me. I didn't have the time.
This will really look good in my dinghy with the pilot house. Now I'm like the big boys.

I used a textured 1/4" ABS product from my local plastics supplier (Clear Cut) when I upgraded the electronics after buying Tonic. It seemed to be the very same material that was used before. Very easy to cut and drill using normal woodworking tools. It has held a MFD without any distortion for 4+ years so far. The nice thing with the light pebbling is that it doesn't glare or show fingerprints. Note that this is my inside helm. Outside, I do not know how it would stand up to UV, but your local plastics dealer should have that info.

Not sure I'll ever need use it, but the stuff was inexpensive enough that I made a 2nd blank at the same time with only the recessed perimeter mounting holes.

Tonic said:

I used a textured 1/4" ABS product from my local plastics supplier (Clear Cut) when I upgraded the electronics after buying Tonic. It seemed to be the very same material that was used before. Very easy to cut and drill using normal woodworking tools. It has held a MFD without any distortion for 4+ years so far. The nice thing with the light pebbling is that it doesn't glare or show fingerprints. Note that this is my inside helm. Outside, I do not know how it would stand up to UV, but your local plastics dealer should have that information.

Click to expand...

+1..... Works great! Recommended by Industrial Plastics.

I'll bet that is what is under my present dash. There is a thin layer of brushed aluminum laminated to something - it's probably that plastic.


Did you have to put any kind of sealer or gasket under the gauges in case of spills. I would think the pebbly surface would not seal tight.

Tony B said:

Did you have to put any kind of sealer or gasket under the gauges in case of spills. I would think the pebbly surface would not seal tight.

Click to expand...

Not really relevant at my near-vertical inside helm, but the pebbling is fairly fine and I would think that any standard rubber-like gasket a gauge or instrument came with would seal OK.

For a flybridge I would go with Starboard but the black may absorb to much heat from the sun, but it is uv proof and not harmed being out in the open.

Ron


I am not concerned about the heat because my Bimini is always up and when not traveling, I have a custom canvas that covers the whole dash. I just decided that I was tired of black gauges and thought I would try white. Much easier to read and the white really looks good on a black background. I really don't think I need to have any labeling below the gauges. If I change my mind, I will have to have it engraved
by a sign or trophy maker. Still trying to make up my mind.

Might consider black starboard

I was thinking of doing it myself with black starboard because I didn't think I wanted lettering. Then I decided to play with the photos one more time and I like the lettering and now will have to have it done commercially. Good thing there is no special hurry YET.
I looked under the dash a few hours ago. Every time I do anything involving wiring, I spend at least 2 days rewiring some stuff and throw away a good amount of old wires. The previous owner managed to get everything wrapped around itself. It's always a nightmare but slowly turning into a decent harness.


Ksanders gave me a great idea when he said "....A method I've used allot is to leave wire in place but cut it off and terminate it at a terminal strip on both ends. Then you can wire from the terminal strip to the devices on each end.......". This will ultimately save me a lot of work. I can run from the engines to the Term Strip while carefully marking and tagging each wire, Then cut the old dash panel loose. This will free me from the rats nest of wires. Then I could make a nice harness working from the dash board back ro the term strip. That should allow me to make a nice wiring harness and allow enough slack to remove and work on the panel in the future.