I am trying to change the oil in my new-to-me Volvo TAMD40-B motors. I'm using a jabsco pump on a bucket set up, which appears to be working properly, and yet it doesn't seem to want to extract the oil from the sump. Is there some trick to getting the oil out of this thing? I'm wondering if the tube sticking up near the dipstick is another access point. Anyone know what that tube is there for, and if I can put the probe down that one to extract the oil? I feel totally stupid having to get help on this. Be nice.
Volvo Oil Change
- Thread starter Lutarious
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
BruceK
Moderator Emeritus
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2011
- Messages
- 13,347
- Vessel Name
- Sojourn
- Vessel Make
- Integrity 386
You have to get the tube positioned, or (sump not being transparent) I think the tube curls up into air. Adjust the tube length every time the sucker stops sucking. It`s trial and error.
We have a similar Jabsco pump-on-a-bucket device.
At the risk of telling you what you already know, the oil has to be hot before the pump can successfully pull it through that narrow stick-it-down-the-dipstick-tube plastic tube.
I once had to drain all 12 quarts of oil out of one of our Lehmans due to a "mishap," and I could not run the engine to warm up the oil. It took over an hour for the Jabsco pump/bucket thing to pull a gallon out. So we gave up and removed the sump drain plug instead.
Normally, we start up the Lehman that's going to get the oil change and run it under load (in forward at high idle) until the oil filter is warm to hot-ish to the touch. From a cold startup, this usually takes about 15 minutes or so. We then shut down, punch a big hole in the top of the oil filter, and then procede to use the pump/bucket thing to pull the oil out of the dipstick tube. When the oil is warm/hot like this, it takes about ten minutes to pull all three gallons out.
While your Volvo is a different animal than our Lehmans, the principle is the same, I think, although I doubt punching a big hole in the oil filter will gain you anything other than a mess, I think.
If you ARE warming up the oil before attempting to suck it out with the pump/bucket thing, then I don't have any suggestions for you as I have zero famiarity with your engine.
Bruce's point about making sure the plastic tube is at the bottom of the sump but not pushed down any farther is spot on. On our engines, the dipstick tube aims the plastic suck-out tube right down the side of the sump pan. So I can feel when the end of the tube comes in contact with the bottom of the pan, at which point I pull the tube up a quarter of an inch or so. If I were to keep pushing, the tube would curl up and the end may well come out of the oil.
At the risk of telling you what you already know, the oil has to be hot before the pump can successfully pull it through that narrow stick-it-down-the-dipstick-tube plastic tube.
I once had to drain all 12 quarts of oil out of one of our Lehmans due to a "mishap," and I could not run the engine to warm up the oil. It took over an hour for the Jabsco pump/bucket thing to pull a gallon out. So we gave up and removed the sump drain plug instead.
Normally, we start up the Lehman that's going to get the oil change and run it under load (in forward at high idle) until the oil filter is warm to hot-ish to the touch. From a cold startup, this usually takes about 15 minutes or so. We then shut down, punch a big hole in the top of the oil filter, and then procede to use the pump/bucket thing to pull the oil out of the dipstick tube. When the oil is warm/hot like this, it takes about ten minutes to pull all three gallons out.
While your Volvo is a different animal than our Lehmans, the principle is the same, I think, although I doubt punching a big hole in the oil filter will gain you anything other than a mess, I think.
If you ARE warming up the oil before attempting to suck it out with the pump/bucket thing, then I don't have any suggestions for you as I have zero famiarity with your engine.
Bruce's point about making sure the plastic tube is at the bottom of the sump but not pushed down any farther is spot on. On our engines, the dipstick tube aims the plastic suck-out tube right down the side of the sump pan. So I can feel when the end of the tube comes in contact with the bottom of the pan, at which point I pull the tube up a quarter of an inch or so. If I were to keep pushing, the tube would curl up and the end may well come out of the oil.
Last edited:
There is a tube, similar to the dipstick tube that comes up right near the dipstick. From the manual, it looks like it might be a pump
Out tube, but it's not clear how it is supposed to work. Anyone know about this on a TAMD 40-B?
Out tube, but it's not clear how it is supposed to work. Anyone know about this on a TAMD 40-B?
When you stick the plastic pump-out tube down the dipstick tube and you think you've got it down to the bottom of the sump pan, when you pull the tube back out does it have oil on it, and if so, does it look like the right level of oil (more or less)?
ancora
Guru
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2007
- Messages
- 4,022
I have two TMD40s and use the tube next to the dipstick for sucking out the oil. You must have the pump hose clamped on to the tube or you will not have a proper vacuum to remove the oil.
Delta_JimS
Senior Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2012
- Messages
- 278
Ditto on the tube next to the dipstick; its for sucking the oil out, and it works great.
BruceK
Moderator Emeritus
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2011
- Messages
- 13,347
- Vessel Name
- Sojourn
- Vessel Make
- Integrity 386
I had a Perkins T6534 with a pump permanently installed beside the dipstick. A fast oil removal device.
FF
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2007
- Messages
- 22,552
>Normally, we start up the Lehman that's going to get the oil change and run it under load (in forward at high idle) until the oil filter is warm to hot-ish to the touch. From a cold startup, this usually takes about 15 minutes or so. We then shut down, punch a big hole in the top of the oil filter, and then procede to use the pump/bucket thing to pull the oil out of the dipstick tube. When the oil is warm/hot like this, it takes about ten minutes to pull all three gallons out.<
This is common practice at many boat yards , but it may not be the best way to change the oil.
Oil has an chemical package that is 15% or more of the oils content. Anti foaming , anti rust , viscosity improvers and Detergent.
With full flow oil filters a huge amount of fines dare not be collected , or the filter would plug up too quickly , go to bypass and not catch the chunks.
The detergent is to capture the fines and allow them to be pumprd out as the oil is changed.
This recapture of stuff that has settled in the lube passages and sump takes Heat and Time,
The >best< oil change is after a really long days run , just after engine shutdown as the detergent should have its maximum load of fines.
A secondary bypass filter system (not toilet paper rolls , a FILTER) will help keep the engine as clean as can be done. A centrifugal bypass is easy to clean with no filters to buy , just some paper cups..
Weather it extends the engine life , is of course arguable , but it sure is fun to pull the dipstick after 50 hours and see golden , not jet black , oil .
For a new to you boat, doing an oil change , then doing it again after 20-30 hours might be good insurance if the PO was lazy.
This is common practice at many boat yards , but it may not be the best way to change the oil.
Oil has an chemical package that is 15% or more of the oils content. Anti foaming , anti rust , viscosity improvers and Detergent.
With full flow oil filters a huge amount of fines dare not be collected , or the filter would plug up too quickly , go to bypass and not catch the chunks.
The detergent is to capture the fines and allow them to be pumprd out as the oil is changed.
This recapture of stuff that has settled in the lube passages and sump takes Heat and Time,
The >best< oil change is after a really long days run , just after engine shutdown as the detergent should have its maximum load of fines.
A secondary bypass filter system (not toilet paper rolls , a FILTER) will help keep the engine as clean as can be done. A centrifugal bypass is easy to clean with no filters to buy , just some paper cups..
Weather it extends the engine life , is of course arguable , but it sure is fun to pull the dipstick after 50 hours and see golden , not jet black , oil .
For a new to you boat, doing an oil change , then doing it again after 20-30 hours might be good insurance if the PO was lazy.
Last edited:
Heron
Guru
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2014
- Messages
- 1,304
- Location
- USA
- Vessel Name
- Heron (2)
- Vessel Make
- '88 Cape Dory 28 Flybridge #115
Rick...Mine's a "P" too. I was cruising through the manuals just the other day, looking for that pump-out etc. Apparently on later models like ours it is gone. Factory manual Change instructions say extract through the dipstick tube. I'm going to make up a dip tube to adapt to my Pump-out hose as I can't find that part on the boat. Unlikely the dip stick tube goes all the way to the sump bottom, but I'll try that first (without the nylon dip tube).
Spec's say 11 quarts!
The pump out tube was indeed helpful. I had problems using the dipstick tube and I suspect there is interference from the oil pump or some other machinery down there. Next oil change with filter will be in about 20-30 hours just to be sure. FWIW, my TAMD 40 B calls for 14 quarts in the manual. I extracted about 12 from each motor.
ancora
Guru
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2007
- Messages
- 4,022
My TMD40s take 3 gallons apiece. I use a hose clamp when I put the pump hose onto the take-out tube to insure a proper vacuum. I also remove the rubber impeller from the Jabsco pump to keep it from takin' a set till I use it again. The used oil and filters I bring to our yacht club maintenance yard for disposal. The club also gives a free exchange of oil absorbent pads to members.
