Deck crane ideas

Comments on davits: Upside, no need to put the dinghy on the upper deck, usually cheaper than a crane. Downside, lengthens boat and in many marinas requires larger slip/ higher slip fees. Many people feel not appropriate/safe underway in open water, especially if you lower the storage height in order to see out the helm. Sight to the rear is always a problem, especially if you are backing into a slip.

I have known two trawlers who have used davits for convenience but who have raised the dinghy to the upper deck for passages.

If you are looking at a dinghy crane, consider Nick Jackson's bent pipe crane. Doesn't lower but it looks like in your situation you don't need to have it lowered to the deck because you will have the "boom" stored over the dinghy.

Suggest if you store the dinghy on the top deck you put in lifelines as well.

kthoennes said:

Wouldn't both of those options block most of your view to stern from the helm though?

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Here's my compromise.

I can see the stern for close manouvering, but the middle distance view is cluttered.



And yep, the davits plus bow sprit add 10ft to LOA - marinas are more than happy to charge extra.

Hmmmmm...

Deck Crane de Luxe.

Reiziger said:

Hmmmmm...

Deck Crane de Luxe.

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You know, I can't say that something like this hasn't occurred to me for building on my own vessel, but the amount of leverage on that arm would require something pretty substantial and $$$$ to build, like Titanium or Carbon Fiber to keep it light. I dunno, maybe a large rectangular gusseted aluminum? Not to mention, the axis point on the hull. Now something with an arm on each side would be a lot easier and cheaper to design and configure, but these things are so much better received on larger vessels. Interesting idea, though.

As for John's example above (Eagle 419), I think I could live with that mid-range blockage vs. the other options. Great looking boat there, John.

healhustler said:

You know, I can't say that something like this hasn't occurred to me for building on my own vessel, but the amount of leverage on that arm would require something pretty substantial and $$$$ to build, like Titanium or Carbon Fiber to keep it light. I dunno, maybe a large rectangular gusseted aluminum? Not to mention, the axis point on the hull. Now something with an arm on each side would be a lot easier and cheaper to design and configure, but these things are so much better received on larger vessels. Interesting idea, though.

As for John's example above (Eagle 419), I think I could live with that mid-range blockage vs. the other options. Great looking boat there, John.

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But then you also need the Swim Platform, with integrated diving board, to enter the dinghy.

Swim Platform with integrated diving board

Lot of options here . I probably have about 4 ft of freeboard at the transom . The dinghy is about 1-1/2 ft from keel to caprail . I might could get by with top of the dinghy riding about 1 ft above caprail on the transom .

Everyone has their own preferences and operational procedures and comfort zones. Our 9' Livingston is carried on its side on the swimstep of our boat and sticks up above deck level. Plus we have a tri-cabin which restricts rearward vision even more. Plus our largest window to the rear from the main cabin and helm station is mostly blocked by the sailing dinghy we carry on the aft cabin top.

So our view to the rear is pretty severely hampered, although I can lean out the cabin door next to the helm and look back down the starboard deck.

But we have never had any difficulty judging our distances or stern position when we are backing or maneuvering. I think it's like driving a car or truck. You learn the sight picture fairly quickly and then just "know" when you are clearing the things around you in tight situations or aren't going to.

Our friends with the lobsterboat we're rafted to in the photo below are the same way. He can judge by what he sees out the rear bulkhead door and cabin windows (or the open door) where his dingy is in relation to what's around him. So far as I know, he's never had a problem shoehorning his boat into tight spaces.

If the transom were lower to the water , and built to fold down (like a pickup truck tailgate) to work as the swim platform , the dink could simply be driven aboard as the Seal Combat teams do. Great for loading or unloading , elderly access , and instantly ready for launching. Would be harder to steal too . Rollers might be needed on the inner face of the tailgate.

To think about when towing motor up/down...

There's not too much drag down for all but the bigger tenders and faster speeds. Some, for maneuvering, motor down has enough drag the dink stays behind better without wandering. There is some wear on the lower bearings but no more than if the dink motor was running anyway.

Motor up has issues if the transom is not strong enough to support the leverage if the dink is hitting a lot of chop. Check you manual to see what the manufacturer recommends for road trailering. Some have adequate trailering support, not sure if all do now.

Psneeld
That's good advice. I will check it out. Thanks Howard

My dink is mounted on the top as you plan. It is a PITA even with an electric crane. It adds weight up top which worsens stability. I have to get up top walking around the dink to maneuver it and just never feel comfortable high up without rails.


I would really prefer it mounted on the foredeck.

Do you know what weight the top can carry?

I suggest considering an electric crane. Even with winches a dink is heavy and in wind it is nice to have a hand free to steady the dink.

I'm probably going with davits . It sounds like a real pain to get the dinghy down from the roof . When Larry photo shopped the davits they looked better than I thought they would .

On all the outboards I have used, from 4hp up to 90, putting the motor in gear locks the prop. So when towing, putting the motor in gear will eliminate having the prop freewheel, so no bearing wear will occur.

A lot of the "big" boys tow some of their larger toys. Here's the 164' yacht Imagine off of St. Marteens and two that we didn't get their names. Mostly it was engines up.

Pac Mule,
If you can justify the added moorage davits seem to be best.

Perhaps of interest is a minimalist system I used on my Albin. Don't have a picture. I bolted two tapered 2x6 spars flat to the stern deck corners. About a foot on the corners on the deck and 3' or 4' out aft of the transom. These two spars horizontal w the deck supported the dinghy. To launch I'd stand on a corner of the deck, picking up the bow of the dink and sliding it outboard on the other deck spar. Didn't ship any water launching stern first. Pulling up the dink was a bit more difficult but I really liked the setup. Never fell in the drink either. Very simple and basically no visibility lost aft. Looked over the dink and it was plenty high enough for rough weather. Went to Alaska w this setup and used the dink often.

Hi... A newbie to the forum and will post some intro info but ran across this davit post and wanted to pass along a good link w/ some ideas & good pics...

Steve Cyr a forum member has a great website resource at Customizing Take a peek at his davit project.

Don

Google ,,,simpson laurence davits.

These are nice looking and will handle most dinks.

We use them on our 90/90 ,inshore, and they are a delight

Lift the dink EVERY night and it will be there in the AM,
if it rains pull the plug rather than bail the dink.

On an inland trip the dink aft in davits is a great place for the garbage bags , if you anchor out a lot.

They can be shoe mounted for rapid removal , should you O nite in a $5.00 ft LOA tie up place.

Save $25 , tax free ,for 2 min of effort , works for me!

You may have to rethink your Man Overboard drill with the dink carried in davits.

Ours is to hit the davit release levers, and let the dink drop, and the MOB climb up the stern ladder.

The winch from the davit could be used to retrieve the MOB should he be hurting.

Finally got my material ordered for building some davits . I couldn't find anyone here in the sticks that could bend a large radius from heavy wall stainless tubing . Keep your fingers crossed that they turn out . There is a welder/ farmer here in town that builds custom headers and exhaust for hot rods for fun . He hasn't ever built any davits but he is going to give it his best shot . He built my anchor roller . Ugly davits can ruin the look .

Just getting started .

I thought of that PackMule but wonder if having the bracing outside the bend would be better. Then it would be in tension instead of compression. Well the little struts would be in compression. I've got too many other things to think about and do now. I'll keep watching you while I play or fight w my stupid rubber duckie.

The tubing for the arm is 2" od with 1/8" wall thickness . I wanted a large radius instead of the sharp 90 but couldn't get it bent . Trying to hide the look somewhat of the sharp 90 . Maybe it will come together in the end.

A good fit up and clean weld out should have it looking snazzy

Marty....just a reminder that any inner reinforcement that reduces the inner radius of the davit will take up space where the side of your dinghy cannot penetrate, and its edge will ride against the reinforcement. That's probably why Eric was talking about the outer reinforcement.

Thanks Eric and Larry ,
I think I have allowed enough length in the arms for this plus the fact that my pickup points on the dinghy not as wide as the centerline of the beam by about 6" or more and also the length of my purchase blocks and rigging , but I still have my fingers crossed .

Fit a plate filler inside the 90 deg bend , poke a hole in it for looks and install a cleat to tie off the hauling lines.

I know you may not choose this, however , have you considered the option of adding a swim step for the many conveniences it offers and then Weaver davits are a neat option . I have used this for my hard bottom inflatable and I just cannot imagine my being without a swim step. But, I also usually tow an older whaler for fishing, crabbing etc.

Glen

FF said:

Fit a plate filler inside the 90 deg bend , poke a hole in it for looks and install a cleat to tie off the hauling lines.

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FF I'm adding cleats to the davits . Also looking forward to getting those teak blocks from you

RNL I plan adding a swim step sometime in the future , just not in this years budget . By the way I love your KK 42 .