Painting Old Fiberglass Boat

Looking to Paint my cabin, Aft Deck, and possibly everywhere else topside. Bottom paint coming very soon, due to weather.

So im cheap but i just want to get the job done also. I was looking at primers at Lowes for Cabin, there is 123 water based primer that resists mold and mildew. It looked good but i dont want this to come off right after i paint.

For aft deck, there was the latex valspar primer and Storm/weather paint.

i see the stuff at west marine understand its probably the best route to go but has anybody heard of using the regular latex paints? Deck i understand if its not an option but what about the cabin?

Im trying to do a lot of projects this month or two so you may see me open other threads as well.

Good thread question: (had written a three paragraph response and hit the magic keys that deleted the whole thing other than the first three words- The heck with it! Not the first time !I do not understand these deletions actions on the format)

Al

CaptSoterio said:

Looking to Paint my cabin, Aft Deck, and possibly everywhere else topside. Bottom paint coming very soon, due to weather.

So im cheap but i just want to get the job done also. I was looking at primers at Lowes for Cabin, there is 123 water based primer that resists mold and mildew. It looked good but i dont want this to come off right after i paint.

For aft deck, there was the latex valspar primer and Storm/weather paint.

i see the stuff at west marine understand its probably the best route to go but has anybody heard of using the regular latex paints? Deck i understand if its not an option but what about the cabin?

Im trying to do a lot of projects this month or two so you may see me open other threads as well.

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Yes you can paint your boat with latex house paint. It will look like you painted it with latex house paint.

How much is your boat worth? Is it worth painting right with quality materials or is it just a place on the water that can be moved from time to time?

Remember, the labor will be the same whether you use quality materials or the cheapest you can find. The result will be different.

You don't have to go to West Marine for paint and materials, you can buy the same stuff elsewhere for less money, often a lot less.

thanks ron, i understand what your saying

Lots of good reports about using rustoleum enamel for topsides....usually people stay away from latex, but today's paints are so complex in formulation that it's hard to say if one or a mix might give satisfactory results. Hang on as some here have used rustoleum and may chime in.

Wit patience and technique, you can get a very smooth, shiny, reflective surface with any decent enamel, as that is what is used on a lot of commercial vessels around here and on the assistance tow fleet I work for.

I use the Bullseye primer below decks as do others here, but I wouldn't use it topside as a primer if I was seeking a pretty fine finish as it would need to be tweaked as I find it pretty thick for fine finish work.

Greetings,
Mr. CS. Marine Coatings Brand Page
Don't know for sure but probably cheaper than "name brand" coatings. Boat neighbor uses it and says it works to his expectations and satisfaction.
Aw rats Mr. ps. You're just too quick for me...

house paint ?

HI, I must second what Ron said, if you don't want to pay for real marine paint. (ANY boat that floats is worth it ) look for a good oil base trim semi gloss , sand, prime, (oil also) & paint, D.I.R.T.F.T. do it right the first time! Rich S.

There is no "right way".....there are many ways.

It mainly depends on the boat owner.

Factors like finish quality, cost, application method,, ease of application, number of hands to do the job, longevity, place and time availability, living aboard or not, etc...etc...all factor in the final decision.

Almost any major paint distributor has paint that will do the job at a cost near but hopefully less than West Marine, but more than big box store latex.

Sorry RTF, you go up to bat first next time...babysitting grandson so I had quick response capability.

If you use any latex paint just remember it's rubber based water paint and no oil paint will stick and last over it when you realize you screwed up using it. The clean up will be a nightmare.

I'd stick to an oil base paint but not any rustoleum paint which is alkyd enamel because the UV eats it up fast and it will chalk and leave paint dust on you every time you touch it. Just ask the hot rod guys. They use it for parts that don't get sun like frames etc.

Even if you go to a Sherman Williams paint store and buy their gloss enamel you will be happier. Just know this, there isn't a good single part gloss oil paint anymore. None will last more than a few years in the sun.

If it were mine, I'd save up for Alexseal, Sterling or AwlGrip LP and have a 10 year paint job. It's the same amount of prep and labor as any paint job.

Rustoleum actually makes a "marine" paint. Here's a link but I believe I have seen it at Home Depot stores as well.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...vptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5h73jbvjy2_e

I've never used it but I suspect it's better than house or auto paint but not as good as the name brand marine paints from the marine stores.

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/marine-coatings/topside-paint

What type of finish are looking for? The finish is in the prep. In most paint jobs, the prep is 90% of the work. For a good boat/yacht finish (non-workboat), after you have done all the prep, the paint really isn't all that expensive. Look at the coverage rates of a good paint. A little goes a long way.

Greetings,
Mr. ps. I can appreciate the grandson situation. 3 at this end. Sort of like...

My experience with water based (latex) primers and paint applied on fiberglass is they will not adhere long and will eventually rise and bubble, crack or peel letting moisture and mildew and algae grow underneath. Admittedly, this experience is with fiberglass exterior doors in Florida and not boats. Additionally, latex does not adhere well where an oil based paint has been previously applied. It will eventually peel.

My advice is high grade marine paints.

ok this is for a commercial dungeness crab boat so the deck will see a lot of weather along with sea water. I think im going to get a good marine paint & primer for the deck however, if i can do some of the topside trim with an oil based paint then im going to try it and see how it goes. Im not completely positive about that but I think i have the money to do the marine paint its just that ive got to do a haul out in a few weeks with bottom paint and then whatever else is going to be done during haul out ($$) then im looking to paint the deck also but the temps outside are around mid to low 40s and rain is coming so im not sure i will be able to paint. the haul out is going to be done by yacht fish more than likely or it will wait also.

the interior however, i like the bullseye primer a lot especially the mold and mildew resitance im going to try it and see how it goes. i can afford the cabin to go bad if thats what happens at least ill know.

Thank you for the advice from everyone, i welcome more to chime in. im open to all opinions.

Larry M said:

What type of finish are looking for? The finish is in the prep. In most paint jobs, the prep is 90% of the work. For a good boat/yacht finish (non-workboat), after you have done all the prep, the paint really isn't all that expensive. Look at the coverage rates of a good paint. A little goes a long way.

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yeah ive heard this and the very little painting i have done i have experienced that all the work is in the prep. so i plan on doing a good job on the prep although it doesnt need to look pretty im mostly looking for something non skid esp on the deck because the vessel does like to roll a tad

I am waiting on weather right now myself before continuing painting. Awlgrip 545 and such require a minimum of 55 degrees.

The big question is do you want a yacht like end produce , glossy?

Or is the surface too far gone so flat will look better.

I would spend the bucks for a good MARINE PRIMER as well as marine enamel paint outside.

CaptSoterio said:

.......... I think im going to get a good marine paint & primer for the deck however, if i can do some of the topside trim with an oil based paint then im going to try it and see how it goes. ...........

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Whatever you put on is pretty much forever. Put some cheap paint on your boat and when it fails you won't be able to use a better paint over it unless you get it all off first. Think about how difficult that will be.

If you can't afford quality materials, I suggest waiting until you can and not messing up the boat.

>If you can't afford quality materials, I suggest waiting until you can<

You bet! 95% of the work is surface prep

Filler primer and sandpaper with an extra few months will do wonders for the finish.

Then roll & tip to have the best finish.

Paint sells da boat , so a good looking paint job will be an asset , even 10 years from now.

Inside the cabin I would absolutely use Zinnzer MildewProof House Paint.
It is water based, available at HomeDepot, tintable, self priming, sticks like glue, dries in 45 min, hardens in 10 days, absolutely will not support mold growth, is very durable, and comes in 3 glosses.

I agree that if you apply some crazy paint to the outside, you will never be able to put good paint over it. Did you mention if the exterior had been painted already at some time? I missed that. If it has been painted in the past, your choices for paint types are more limited.

Work Boat

This looks like a working crab boat. You need a paint that will hold up to abuse. Besides gel coat which, shudder is still an option. two part polyurethane regardless of the brand is the best answer. Even automotive two part is expensive. Sterling is one of the big suppliers of automotive paints. If your going to do this yourself outside, I wouldn't rule out gel coat. Here's why, Gel coat requires less prep, no primer, is less sensitive to temperature; and hard to screw up. With gel coat you finish the application by wet sanding the surface smooth and rubbing out the gel coat finish to what ever gloss you want. It is more labor intensive after application because the sanding and rubbing out can take quite a while. However in reality it requires less surface prep because you make your major repairs and remove the old gel coat to bare glass with 60 grit apply the gel coat with multiple thin coats. If it runs it not a disaster as your going to be sanding it smooth anyway. Gel coat will give you the long lasting finish that's been on your boat for years. And since your boat probably is not going to sitting at dock but working the need to buff out the gel coat every year is just an option.
The two part paints are more expensive, surface prep is the key to a good finish as these paints go on thin and will not cover any sins. They are very temperature sensitive and tricky to spray, multiple thin coats, each coat subject to dust. They can be rolled and tipped but sags are still an issue. Two part paints hold up for at least 10 years, are tough as nails and provide gloss like nothing else. They can be repaired and sanded and rubbed out just like gel coat if you know what your doing. My boat has Sterling two part and it still looks great at about 9 years. No buffing needed, just wash and wear.
These two approach's are probably the best however I have used Rustoleum on small pieces like davit bases and engine mounts aluminum window frames with pretty good results, it seems to hold up for at least three or four years. Rustoleum doesn't seem to brush very well anymore and tends to drag quickly, here in California, anyway, but sprays well. My guess would be it would look fine for several years and you would be back after it again.

Very good advice.. The deck has paint but its been coming off. ive had this boat a few years and i havent been able to paint until now. Ill take some pictures today and post them up. the paint thats currently on the exterior is probably marine paint it looks pretty heavy duty and im convinced that ill end up with a marine paint for the exterior.

For the Interior cabin area looks like im going to stick with the Bullseye mold and mildew primer fighter. YES I want the value of my vessel to improve so im going to invest in the good paint.

Probably go with the gel coat, and then not really looking or caring about the gloss because its not going to stay shiny very long. just need something heavy duty that can take some abuse.

heres some pictures of what im working with.

as you can see ive got a lot of work to do. The next 2-3 weeks ill be working on my boat probably 8 - 10 hours a day to improve it and honestly im siked about it.

Capt keep the pics coming as you do the work

will do!

Sounds like the commercial paints might work best for such severe service.

PPG.com sells paint for ice rated vessels.

PPG Sigmashield 1200 is for operating in heavy ice , might be tougher than shiny yacht white.
PPG offers SIGMASHIELD 1200 coating for shipping in ...

corporate.ppg.com/.../PPG-offers-SIGMASHIELD-1200-coating-for-shi...
Sep 9, 2014 - Developed from research conducted in PPG's own facilities, SIGMASHIELD 1200 coating delivers exceptional abrasion and impact resistance ...

rwidman said:

Rustoleum actually makes a "marine" paint. Here's a link but I believe I have seen it at Home Depot stores as well.

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...vptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5h73jbvjy2_e

I've never used it but I suspect it's better than house or auto paint but not as good as the name brand marine paints from the marine stores.

Marine Coatings Topside Paint Product Page

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I repainted the entire hull of my boat (above the waterline ) 5 or 6 years ago with Rustoleum Marine Paint. It has held up very well. $12 a quart at Lowes.

ARoss said:

I repainted the entire hull of my boat (above the waterline ) 5 or 6 years ago with Rustoleum Marine Paint. It has held up very well. $12 a quart at Lowes.

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oh wow, i didnt know there was a rustoleum marine paint. intesteresting. I went to get some primer from seattle marine and it wasnt as expensive as west marine but i mean i dont know if im going to be able to do anything for a couple weeks, haul out is coming and owner work is not permitted. it might have to wait until the spring.