Where is your shore power receptacle located?

markpierce said:

Hate it when there are only two outlets for every two berths and one boat is using both plugs!................

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That's when it's time for the marina management to step in. You're paying for electricity so they must provide a way for you to get it. They, not you, should unplug one of the cords from the other boat.

One of my slip neighbors arrived at his boat one day to find his power cord unplugged and another boats cord plugged in to where his had been. The guy on the other boat said something like "I hope you don't mind, I unplugged your boat." Well, with his food thawing out and his AC not running, my slip neighbor said "Hell yes, I do mind!" as he yanked the other guy's cord out and reconnected his. I'm a bit surprised that's all he did.

Scary said:

I could be mistaken, I may only be able to use three of the supply circuits at a time. I'll post a picture of the panel. They can come from any end of the boat.

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I would be pretty surprised if it was set up where you could use the same lines in fore and aft simultaneously. In fact I can't see how it could be done safely. You must have selector switches to switch the incoming source of power to the panels between fore and aft. That's the only way I've ever seen it done professionally.

Thank you all for posting up your info and pics.I know my panel will be on the left side of my helm station,where the door to the V birth is.I think the best place will be under the captains window,starboard side.I should have less than a 24 inch run to the panel,if my pre planing pans out.I should only require 30A service.A small A/C system and possibly a heating system,a couple 120v outlets and I should be covered.Everything else should be covered by the DC system.I plan to go bare essentials,but I will set everything up for future up grades.A 30 foot vessel shouldn't need much as far as electrical.

People think that but unless you plan differently....even on a 30 foot boat you can wind up with the same power requirements that some 50 footers might have. Think we'll ahead as it is easier now than later to upgrade.

Ben,

Not to diverge, but what are you planning for a cooktop? Propane? Planning an inverter and large house bank? Charger size? Solar or wind power? Large alternator? Is your heat 12V or 110V? Generator?

All this stuff matters in the big picture and will affect the service required. No propane, lots of refrigeration and inverter capacity? Maybe 30A isn't enough.

My old 1977 boat is mostly propane and 12V. Never had a gen until I bought a small Honda 2000. No heat, no air, simple systems, so 30A is ample as long as I don't use my ceramic heater or water heater or microwave or coffee maker simultaneously. If I lived aboard, 50A would avoid the need for load shedding and be a real quality of life improvement.

ben2go said:

Thank you all for posting up your info and pics.I know my panel will be on the left side of my helm station,where the door to the V birth is.I think the best place will be under the captains window,starboard side.I should have less than a 24 inch run to the panel,if my pre planing pans out.I should only require 30A service.A small A/C system and possibly a heating system,a couple 120v outlets and I should be covered.Everything else should be covered by the DC system.I plan to go bare essentials,but I will set everything up for future up grades.A 30 foot vessel shouldn't need much as far as electrical.

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Try to put the inlet where you can plug or unplug the power cord from the boat easily. You won't always be able to reach it from the dock. I have seen some production boats with this problem.

Hello Ben. My inlet is "just" too high -- it's in the cockpit and were it three inches lower I could more easily make a seat in that corner. (There is one to starboard for my propane tank.)
AC panel is mid-ship inside and this is probably the best spot for it though were I a new construct I'd have it above the fuel tank and under one of the steps to the pilothouse overhead.

Bear in mind your cord will protrude so consider where it will do so.

Like your planning, my Seaweed in essentially 12 volts though I do have outlets for AC when I turn on the inverter. There is one in the head (by the sink -- perhaps for a guy who shaves?) plus one at the foot of my bed, and two in the galley (port side and starboard)

Idea: For mine, on the starboard side I ran the AC side directly to the front of counter (over the edge so to speak)
That is the initial outlet on the run (with GFCI)

Next, down stream is a switch (on/off) that leads back to the back of the locker where I have the outlet for my AC Haier refrigerator. The thinking is that I can pop the GFCI and reset with ease. Also, when I chose I can shut off the reefer without opening the door.

The one by my sink is mostly used to power my crock pot that conveniently fits inside the sink. When underway I can cook a pot of something scrumptious and not worry about the appliance even if rocked.

Anyway, consider your AC runs and if you don't want cords running helter-skelter perhaps my idea will be of benefit.

I have not found a need for another outlet for AC though I am considering one in the pilothouse for the Christmas tree lights. I can back it to the one in the head so there's already a power source available. Still pondering that one though...

I don't like seeing cords. It's a quirk -- and not to worry: I have plenty more!

Like most 34' TT's the outlet is just forward of the salon door. I was always tripping over the cord and bought a right angle adapter that helps to keep the cord against the bulkhead and out of the way.
Marinco 30Amp Right Angle Cordset Adap MAR-1RPC, At The Dock

Heres the set up

Capt.Bill11 said:

I would be pretty surprised if it was set up where you could use the same lines in fore and aft simultaneously. In fact I can't see how it could be done safely. You must have selector switches to switch the incoming source of power to the panels between fore and aft. That's the only way I've ever seen it done professionally.

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I was incorrect, I can use one of my 50amp 240 and one of my 30amp 120 volt cords or two of my 30amp cords. I can select and mix from both ends of the boat. In other words I can supply 50 amps 240 on the bow and 30amps 120 from the cockpit, or the reverse. I can supply one 240 50 amp and one 120 30 amps at the bow or the cockpit. I can supply 2-30 amp 120 volt cords to the bow or cockpit, I can split the two 30 120 volt cords between the the bow and the cockpit. You can't use lines simultaneously, you can use one 240 volt line and one 120 volt line or two 120 volt lines or a single 120 volt, or a single 240 volt line. You can distribute this power selectively to all three of the ac subpanels or just one. The Isolation transformer steps up 120 30 amp single line to 240 volts allowing you to use a limited amount of 240 volts. The Hatteras long range cruisers have very robust electrical systems that include selector switches in the panel as well as fuses at the inlet plugs, breakers in the panel and ground fault breakers between the main panel and the subpanels. Each subpanel has a main breaker and individual circuit breakers. The air conditions have control boxes with circuit breakers at each air conditioner. It is a very commercial system. All Panels are in closed metal enclosures, no open wiring, everything loomed and secured. All selected inputs have voltage gauges and all distributions amp gauges. The generator controls include voltage and and a frequency gauge.

Thank you everyone.You all have given me some more things to consider and think about.

FlyWright said:

Ben,

Not to diverge, but what are you planning for a cooktop? Propane? Planning an inverter and large house bank? Charger size? Solar or wind power? Large alternator? Is your heat 12V or 110V? Generator?

All this stuff matters in the big picture and will affect the service required. No propane, lots of refrigeration and inverter capacity? Maybe 30A isn't enough.

My old 1977 boat is mostly propane and 12V. Never had a gen until I bought a small Honda 2000. No heat, no air, simple systems, so 30A is ample as long as I don't use my ceramic heater or water heater or microwave or coffee maker simultaneously. If I lived aboard, 50A would avoid the need for load shedding and be a real quality of life improvement.

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The boat I am hoping to start building next year is the 30 foot version of the 27 footer in my avatar.My cabin will be a good bit larger than the one in my avatar.Sticking with a trailer trawler for now.

Cooking will be portable propane cook stove.Refer will be a small 12/120 unit.I am looking at a water heater that uses both 110 and engine coolant for heating water.I don't suspect we will be taking many warm showers and we don't require warm water for the occasional hand washing.

I will plan for 50A,just in case.I'd like to keep to DC as much as possible.

My powa will be a house bank with inverter, and backed up by a genny.Also engine will be chipping in while under way.

I'm in the southeast so I may not need heat unless I decide to travel to points north.It's more of one of those luxury items.AC I was planning a small marine unit.I have considered an RV unit,but I'm not sure I want the wart on the roof look.I could use that area for solar panels to maintain the batteries while the boat is sitting.

I had considered taken this boat around the Great Loop,but the more I chat with the admiral,the more I will want a much more roomier boat.I've down graded my expectations of the boat I've been planning to mostly weekenders with possibly 2 week marina hopping on the ICW or gunk hole outings.If by chance,something bad happens and I am a solo sailor,I can do the GL with this boat.I don't require much to live on a boat.Heck,I used to do week long trips on an open pontoon with 2 other guys.I'm getting older so I need a cabin with a cushy place to nap.

ben2go said:

1) Where is the shore power receptacle located on your boat?

2) Would you please post a pic of it's location?

3)If you could relocate the receptacle,where would you put it and why.

4)What advice would you give regarding shore power receptacle for a new build?

Thanks in advance for the input.

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Hello Ben,

FWIW Here's my setup.



Good point:

plugs and sockets, together with polarity tester and galvanic blocker, are inside a locker with shore cable being fed through a weather proof(ish) tube with cap.


Bad point:

the tube outlet is on the starboard side but the boat is setup for portside to.


Just a detail in an overall great professional electrics job, but perhaps done without the previous owner thinking too much about actual use.

It's fine, and I won't be changing it, but each "pro" job ideally should be planned with the whole boat in mind.




cheers,

Parts bin , Worst Marine ,

We don need no stinkin power cord.

Apologies to Treasure Of Sierra Madre.

ben2go said:

............Cooking will be portable propane cook stove..........

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I was with you except for that. Propane can be pretty dangerous on a boat.

For your safety, I suggest following the ABYC propane system specifications. There's a lot to do but you'll sleep better at night. If you still want to use the portable stove, you should store and use it and all the spare cylinders outside the cabin.

Simple is as Simple Does!

That orig Tolly electric panel remains in fine condition. Runs shore and gen set power. Takes care of all AC needs aboard boat (we're full-on electric). Decent sized House Batt Bank does the rest. Have another perf condition duplicate (same exact year and set-up) original Tollycraft panel sealed in storage container aboard boat.

Pict at bottom is family celebrating simplicity!

Does anyone have the Glendinning Cable Master?

Moonstruck said:

Does anyone have the Glendinning Cable Master?

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Yep. This from post #16:

ranger42c said:

We finally retrofitted a Cablemaster system for our transient shorepower cord; schlepping the 50A (125/250V) cable was getting to be more like work than fun. We still also carry a 50' spare, in case reach is an issue at a transient marina, and we leave another short cord installed at our home slip all the time... so disconnecting and reconnecting is very easy/fast.

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-Chris

rwidman said:

I was with you except for that. Propane can be pretty dangerous on a boat.

For your safety, I suggest following the ABYC propane system specifications. There's a lot to do but you'll sleep better at night. If you still want to use the portable stove, you should store and use it and all the spare cylinders outside the cabin.

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Yes of course but I was thinking those small table top stoves with the small hand held size propane bottles.If I do decided on a propane system aboard,it will be done fully to ABYC standards.

We don't cook a lot at home,so I expect this habit will transfer over to boat outings.Something like this camp stove should do.

I wanted to add,I will have a fuel locker in the rear cockpit that vents overboard per AYBC and that's where my propane bottle will live when not in use.

ben2go said:

Yes of course but I was thinking those small table top stoves with the small hand held size propane bottles.If I do decided on a propane system aboard,it will be done fully to ABYC standards.

We don't cook a lot at home,so I expect this habit will transfer over to boat outings.Something like this camp stove should do.

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Yes but you need to keep it outside, both when in use and when in storage. Propane can leak and fill your boat with explosive fumes. A marine approved propane stove will turn off the propane if the flame goes out. That camping stove will not do that.

rwidman said:

Yes but you need to keep it outside, both when in use and when in storage. Propane can leak and fill your boat with explosive fumes. A marine approved propane stove will turn off the propane if the flame goes out. That camping stove will not do that.

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We have one inlet on the port side and one on the starboard. They are both accessible, one under the galley sink, the other directly into the power distribution cabinet. We just run the cable to the side we don't board on to keep the cable off the deck most used.

Ben2go,

Late to the party. We have two connections, aft and forward.

So for those of you with two or more shore power inlets, do you have to switch a switch to select the one you are using? If not, what keeps the unused one from being "hot"?

rwidman said:

So for those of you with two or more shore power inlets, do you have to switch a switch to select the one you are using? If not, what keeps the unused one from being "hot"?

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Yes.

n4712 said:

yes.

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..

Propane is no more dangerous on a boat than anything else if it's set up and used correctly. The majority of Grand Banks boats are propane and this dates from the mid 1960s. Howver, as Ron states, if one decides to install a propane system on a boat that doesn't have one, there are guidelines and requirements that must be met.

rwidman said:

So for those of you with two or more shore power inlets, do you have to switch a switch to select the one you are using? If not, what keeps the unused one from being "hot"?

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I've never seen one without a selector switch.

ben2go said:

We don't cook a lot at home,so I expect this habit will transfer over to boat outings.Something like this camp stove should do.

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Just get a proper two burner marine gas stove top and be done with it.

Capt.Bill11 said:

I've never seen one without a selector switch.

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Just checking. I imagine there are a few owner installed systems without the switch.

My FIL bought a generator to power his house when the power lines went dead during storms. His hookup - A long extension cord with male plugs on each end. He would unplug the clothes dryer and insert the cord from the generator.

I told him that in the trades we called that a "suicide cord". He got mad and said as long as nobody touched the plugs with the generator running they would be fine.

rwidman said:

Just checking. I imagine there are a few owner installed systems without the switch.



My FIL bought a generator to power his house when the power lines went dead during storms. His hookup - A long extension cord with male plugs on each end. He would unplug the clothes dryer and insert the cord from the generator.



I told him that in the trades we called that a "suicide cord". He got mad and said as long as nobody touched the plugs with the generator running they would be fine.

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Then when the power goes back on you got two power sources. That could get interesting fast.