Delfin
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That's mine too. I bet that is what it is because it sputtered and died, then started, then sputtered and died.My cap looks like this:
Honda Genset Housing
- Thread starter Captain K
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ben2go
Guru
My cap looks like this:
Does yours have multiple little holes on the inside for venting?The one I had,had those little holes.I would blow it out with the air gun and pressure turned down to 30psi.A can of compressed air or maybe WD-40 could work and be easily stowed.
CPseudonym
Moderator Emeritus
I'll have to look at yours next time I'm aboard FlyWright. None of mine have that little lever.
Delfin
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Yes, mine has those holes, but this unit is brand new. Since that whole cap has to do with California emissions requirement, and since everything mandated from California has the net effect of reducing the usability and functionality of all it touches, one has to assume the cap may be the culprit. At the risk of bringing on cataclysmic global warming I'm going to crack it a bit to supplement the venting and see what happens.
ben2go
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You got that right!
Here's a video that shows the anatomy of the vented cap and how to modify it for extended fuel tank use.
It looks pretty simple to disassemble and reassemble.
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superdiver
Senior Member
That's what mine looks like too.
ben2go
Guru
Delfin
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Very cool, and very doable. Youtube is amazing. I gave myself a coronary bypass with only a Swiss Army knife and a pair vicegrips while watching one of these.
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This sounds what I am looking for, could you send me a few pictures. I live in Colorado and the boat in Brunswick GA. I be looking for 120 quart cooler
sabaru350@yahoo.com
sabaru350@yahoo.com
ben2go
Guru
Excellent vid.
WoW! I quoted FlyWright and made a comment "Excellent vid",but my comment didn't show up.
Well I hate to ask because I feel like I'm kicking a hornet's nest, but...
What really IS the difference between these portable generators and marine generators? Isn't, for instance, a marine gas generator mounted and running inside your engine compartment theoretically just as dangerous as a portable generator mounted on the deck or in some custom enclosure?
Assuming the exhaust hoses are sealed well and run off the boat somehow, AND you have CO detectors inside the boat, is it just the "marine" label that's the real difference?
What really IS the difference between these portable generators and marine generators? Isn't, for instance, a marine gas generator mounted and running inside your engine compartment theoretically just as dangerous as a portable generator mounted on the deck or in some custom enclosure?
Assuming the exhaust hoses are sealed well and run off the boat somehow, AND you have CO detectors inside the boat, is it just the "marine" label that's the real difference?
I have installed the Honda 2000 on the fly bridge inside a 150 quart cooler, I got the idea from this forum, no noise I run the generator about 2 hours a night when I am out, so a gallon of gas 3 days. It was a lot cheaper than 6k, so no CO problems and no noise and it is out of the way along with the fuel for the dingy and the Honda. This forum is a great place for good ideas.
Al
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Sabaru350-
Glad you found this solution as favorable as you have. So simple, so easy, and inexpensive. I am going to add the vent connection to allow for a satellite fuel source in the two gallon supply that is currently in the generator cooler. The room is there and I believe a "pick up" tube can be constructed to connect to the line going back to the Honda cap. Will investigate. Would be nice to be equal to some degree to those folks with engine room gen sets fed by off the main fuel tanks (Gas or Diesel as it applies).20 hours of potential generation without fussing with gas cans seems worth the effort.
Al
Glad you found this solution as favorable as you have. So simple, so easy, and inexpensive. I am going to add the vent connection to allow for a satellite fuel source in the two gallon supply that is currently in the generator cooler. The room is there and I believe a "pick up" tube can be constructed to connect to the line going back to the Honda cap. Will investigate. Would be nice to be equal to some degree to those folks with engine room gen sets fed by off the main fuel tanks (Gas or Diesel as it applies).20 hours of potential generation without fussing with gas cans seems worth the effort.
Al
BryanF
Senior Member
It makes me think about a nice little Kubota diesel genset mounted outside and up top. I bet I can figure out how to pump fuel up to it from the main tank.
Guess I would put an overflow in back to the main tank. I mean I would never forget to turn that pump off, of course, but...
Guess I would put an overflow in back to the main tank. I mean I would never forget to turn that pump off, of course, but...
No, there are big differences, particularly in the fuel and electrical systems. There are strict requirements for both. Basically, the fuel system must be designed not to leak gasoline or gasoline vapors and the electrical system (both on the engine and the generator itself) must be designed to prevent sparks from igniting gasoline vapors.
Capt.Bill11
Guru
Just put the pump on a timer switch.
BryanF
Senior Member
The kubota genset that is here is probably a couple hundred pounds. And while I may not want that much weight up that high I will have to think about it.
And in terms of the timer switch - for me just one more thing to go wrong.
With an overflow back to the tank I have fewer failure points.
I saw a diesel stove tank set up like that from the engine return line. when the tank was full the rest went back to the main tank.
And in terms of the timer switch - for me just one more thing to go wrong.
With an overflow back to the tank I have fewer failure points.
I saw a diesel stove tank set up like that from the engine return line. when the tank was full the rest went back to the main tank.
the Honda weighs about 50 lbs, I found the 150 igloo cooler leaves enough rooms to start it and shut it off while in the cooler. both vents are on the ends, I do have holes in the bottom just incase of water that might get in.
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You can spend a whole lot of time, money and effort to beat the economy of a Honda 2000 and still fail. I found that the simple solution was to buy the Honda 2000. It hasn't been without issue, but no regrets. EVERY Honda product I've ever owned has performed flawlessly including 2 Accords, one 2 hp OB and the generator (well, except for that broken connecting rod bolt). It's tough to improve upon that!
Al
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Kolive-
While waiting for Subaru350 to respond allow me to repost my remarks on this same application. I remain photo posting demented! Working on this as we type. It surely appears that Subaru350 has duplicated what I have created. Were you to do likewise I am sure you would be pleased.
Al
Prior post:
"Some where along in the discussion a reference was made to "Someone using a ice cooler", said with a smile or maybe another facial expression I had offered photos when available.
At any rate let me expound as best I can as I have old timers when it comes to posting photos. I used a 120 quart Igloo cooler as the lid will close over the Honda 2000. The exhaust end has a 9 inch square cut out and a three inch deep galvanized frame was constructed to insert protecting the cooler insulation.
On the inside against this frame, is a off the shelf air vent cover with a 8 inch high and about 13 inches wide screen screwed into the wall of the cooler.(purchased at hardware store. )
The Honda come next. Cut an hinged access door into the side to allow access to the on/off and pull cord.
Then I installed a plywood panel in the slots provided in the cooler sides which is cut out in the center to expose access to the Honda plugin panel.
The remaining empty portion of the cooler is then storage during non use for the spare 2 gallon gas container, electrical cord and such.
At the location of the cooler drain plug, left open, holes were drilled below this drain plug to allow ALL of any moisture that might gather which to date has not.
The cooler sits atop of a 1/2 rubber pad beneath and on the cabin top.
It is a successful experiment. From any distance, the appearance of it "Just another cooler" belies the real use.
The sound level is absolute quite compared to the original wood box that housed the unit.
Cost? $10 bucks for an old cooler, $50 bucks for all the sheet metal work, used hinge, and nothing more than a handful of screws.
The satisfaction of admiring comments from other boaters leading me to believe there will be other similar efforts.
Regards- Al"
While waiting for Subaru350 to respond allow me to repost my remarks on this same application. I remain photo posting demented! Working on this as we type. It surely appears that Subaru350 has duplicated what I have created. Were you to do likewise I am sure you would be pleased.
Al
Prior post:
"Some where along in the discussion a reference was made to "Someone using a ice cooler", said with a smile or maybe another facial expression I had offered photos when available.
At any rate let me expound as best I can as I have old timers when it comes to posting photos. I used a 120 quart Igloo cooler as the lid will close over the Honda 2000. The exhaust end has a 9 inch square cut out and a three inch deep galvanized frame was constructed to insert protecting the cooler insulation.
On the inside against this frame, is a off the shelf air vent cover with a 8 inch high and about 13 inches wide screen screwed into the wall of the cooler.(purchased at hardware store. )
The Honda come next. Cut an hinged access door into the side to allow access to the on/off and pull cord.
Then I installed a plywood panel in the slots provided in the cooler sides which is cut out in the center to expose access to the Honda plugin panel.
The remaining empty portion of the cooler is then storage during non use for the spare 2 gallon gas container, electrical cord and such.
At the location of the cooler drain plug, left open, holes were drilled below this drain plug to allow ALL of any moisture that might gather which to date has not.
The cooler sits atop of a 1/2 rubber pad beneath and on the cabin top.
It is a successful experiment. From any distance, the appearance of it "Just another cooler" belies the real use.
The sound level is absolute quite compared to the original wood box that housed the unit.
Cost? $10 bucks for an old cooler, $50 bucks for all the sheet metal work, used hinge, and nothing more than a handful of screws.
The satisfaction of admiring comments from other boaters leading me to believe there will be other similar efforts.
Regards- Al"
Al,
Thank you for taking the time to repost this description. That helps me a lot. Sounds like something I will take a serious look at for my application. I have the Honda already and locating it in a safe enclosure sounds like the thing to do.
Thank you for taking the time to repost this description. That helps me a lot. Sounds like something I will take a serious look at for my application. I have the Honda already and locating it in a safe enclosure sounds like the thing to do.
Al
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Kolive, Another item of interest. I used a standard drop cord of heavy construction adapted to the normal marine electrical female end. I pull that back into the storage end of the cooler with the end outside wrapped in a simple bread loaf plastic bag or such. Simple to just yard it out and insert for operation. KISS principle in practice!!
Went looking for the On/Off swivel valve discussed in the video on drawing fuel from another container into the tank of Honda. As there is a two gallon supply jug in the storage section it makes sense to marry up to it over attempting to refill the Honda tank from a spout.
I'd call that a real solution to an aux gen set which is not a fixed unit within a boat.
Al
Went looking for the On/Off swivel valve discussed in the video on drawing fuel from another container into the tank of Honda. As there is a two gallon supply jug in the storage section it makes sense to marry up to it over attempting to refill the Honda tank from a spout.
I'd call that a real solution to an aux gen set which is not a fixed unit within a boat.
Al
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