Propane not turning on stove....Trident system installed

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bshillam

Guru
Joined
May 18, 2013
Messages
801
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Our Heaven
Vessel Make
1997 4800 Navigator
So last week I go to turn on the stove to my newly acquired Willard and the darn thing doesn't turn on. I check, 12 volt turned on, propane tank opened 100 psi showing on the valve body (pre solenoid) sniffer on, with panel switch showing green....Still nothing. So I double check, add 1.4 gallons of propane and re attach tank to system. Now showing 110 psi at the gauge pre solenoid. Nothing at the stove.

Now, how many have had solenoids go bad? Have you taken them apart, cleaned and put back together to have working again? What do you clean the parts with? I am assuming that this really is the only thing it could be as the sniffer is showing red (on) and the panel is lit green. The only moving part in the whole system is that darn solenoid. When I switched my last system on you could hear the solenoid turn on (open) this one not so.

Thanks for the help.
 
Can you hear the solonoid when switching on? It will click. If not it may need to be cleaned or replaced.
 
I think replacing the solenoid is the safer option if you determine that it is defective.
 
Try jumping power to the solenoid to see if it works...if it does...then check all your connections...

Not sure I would pull apart a solenoid as when they fail...they are't all that easy to fix permanently...temp yes..but how long till you are at it again.

At $23...buy a couple

AFC High Pressure Multi-Purpose Shutt-Off Valve model 151
 
I removed the guts, cleaned and 're installed. Still nothing...than removed the guts and the stove worked. I will be checking for power and connections. It probably needs replacing.
 
Don't play with propane ! Yes you should be able to hear the solenoid click.
Do not try to repair it, a new one can be had for $20. What is your safety worth.
 
No body is playing with propane here. Please don't get that idea! There are actually instructions with the solenoid on how to disassemble, clean any debris and re assemble the unit. I did just that, tested my thought that it was bad by removing the plunger and allowing the system to fill w/o the solenoid engaged/"on". I have successfully identified that it is either wiring related or a bad unit. I will be working on those two potentials and contacting the manufacturer tomorrow as they have had a few recalls and this might be in the recall batch. I understand and appreciate propane and it's proper use, just as I appreciate my boat and it's proper use. I'll report back my findings in the new few days.
Cheers!
 
Happened to me. I by passed the sniffer and the stove worked. I replaced the sniffer.
 
............. I have successfully identified that it is either wiring related or a bad unit..............

It would have been far simpler and productive to check the wiring before taking the solenoid apart. You may have ruined a perfectly good solenoid.

Put your voltmeter on the two terminals and turn the switch "on". You should get a reading of 12 volts DC (more or less). If you do, the solenoid is defective and needs to be replaced. If you don't, there is a problem with your boat's wiring that needs to be fixed. There is a fuse or circuit breaker for this circuit and that's where you should start.
 
Thank you Ron, however please read my post. There were instructions on how to disassemble the solenoid to ensure it was free of any debris. Why would a manufacturer include those instructions if it wasn't meant to be broken down. That's part of the diagnosis process. I had the tools on hand and it was an easy process. Maybe not all solenoids are designed to be broken down, cleaned and re installed. Saying something maybe ruined by taking it apart is pure speculation.
 
I worked for a company that manufactured solenoids. Nothing wrong with taking it apart cleaning and reassembling. Just make SURE to test it afterward to make sure it is sealing when it's de energized.
Then check it a second time and you'll be fine.
 
I looked for this this morning and couldn't find on the net, for anyone that would like to know what the inside of a Trident Solenoid looks like,

13029_10202558362591519_1287083985525713198_n.jpg
 
In addition, I found this recall

http://newcontent.westmarine.com/content/documents/pdfs/RECALLS/Trident_LP_Gas_Systems.pdf

After speaking with Trident I found out that the plunger tip was made with rubber. When the rubber tip comes into contact with any oil such as oil that maybe present in propane the tip expands. This can cause two things to happen, either one the system stays open or two the magnet isn't strong enough to pull the stopper out enough to open the valve. I have a call into Trident to find out what they're recommending as mine was close to the date code issued for recall.
 
Looks like something I can buy off the shelf at Grainger or Johnstone Supply. Thanks for the photo :thumb:
 
I spoke to the manufacturer and they are sending me a replacement. After further discussion I found out the unit in question is only about four years old. That after use the magnet starts to lose it's holding power. (Not sure why but I am no engineer). I find it funny that some get 20 plus years out of their old system. Heck I just sold a boat with the original system in it from 1980 and still working great. And how we get reports of some failing within a year or two of install. Soft rubber, oil, plunger just doesn't work together either. I'll install in the new unit and report back.
 
i find it funny that some get 20 plus years out of their old system. Heck i just sold a boat with the original system in it from 1980 and still working great. And how we get reports of some failing within a year or two of install. Soft rubber, oil, plunger just doesn't work together either.

Made in China....
 
It should not lose its holding power. Ours never did unless the coil failed, then it wouldn't work at all, they never got weak.
 
Sounds like the coil failed. I'll install new one as soon as it arrives. Hopefully in a few days.
 
Propane while a great stove or reefer fuel does have junk/dirt in it.

The easiest way to clean the fuel is with an inline T and a pipe nipple pointing down to have a place for the gunk to drop.
 

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