Through hull fittings

Well I have just completed the annual anti foul, and a check of the sea cocks shows them to be at the end of their useful(safe) life.

Looking for advice and recommendations on styles & brands of new sea cocks, and also any dodgy units to be avoided.

Cheers,

Andy

Andy,
It would seem to me one would replace the through hulls first and then do the anti foul painting just before launch.

I'm about a week off from launch so I'm scrambling to tie up loose ends. Almost no working good weather in sight. The rain (and wind) train has arrived.

I actually dumped this one on the yard. Told them to replace w same as old. My sea water valve is/was a ball type. Should be OK if I exercise it regular. Maybe I can discipline myself to close it all the time. I hate the danger of running my pump dry and burning up the impeller.

>and a check of the sea cocks shows them to be at the end of their useful(safe) life.<

If they are the bronze tapered plug style , they are very simple to overhaul, and lap the surface to perfection with Valve Grinding Compound and a few min of effort.

I went with the Groco through hull with flange fitting for / with matching ball valve....I like the idea that if a ball valve goes bad...I can just screw on another ball valve and be done for the next (whoever knows) years....

Groco IBVF Series Flanged Adaptor


I went rhe full route like Compass Marine has provided pics/instructions for so kindly....I eopxied discs down with bronze bolts upward to bolt the flanges down...so any issues for me should be very distant and easy to correct no matter what with a seacock.

Andy: If you're looking for a Grocco BV-1000 1" Full Flow Ball Valve, I still have a brand new one for sale.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s9/grocco-bv-1000-1-full-flow-ball-valve-14113.html

I have to replace one next spring located in the bow that's used for my wash down. Remains open all the time, even with the handle in the closed position. Leaning toward Marelon (spelling?). One less bonding issue, and it is in a protected area that should not be stepped on. Any reason not to go that way? My service life time frame is anything over 15 years will be fine. My personal service life probably will be about the same.

mike66 said:

I have to replace one next spring located in the bow that's used for my wash down. Remains open all the time, even with the handle in the closed position. Leaning toward Marelon (spelling?). One less bonding issue, and it is in a protected area that should not be stepped on. Any reason not to go that way? My service life time frame is anything over 15 years will be fine. My personal service life probably will be about the same.

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Had 5 of those below the waterline and 2 above. They seemed to work ok, but you're not supposed to take them apart to lubricate the orings. While I liked the idea of non metal seacocks, they should be made with all orings and no gaskets. The manufacturer got a little pissy with me when I called about getting a replacement set of seals after I disassembled one to service it and replace the orings. Apparently 3 orings and 2 gaskets is beyond the capability of the average boat owner. While they seemed ok, I have a general distrust of plastic fittings in critical locations. Worry about them becoming brittle with age. Might have felt better if the castings had been more robust. Ended up replacing the 5 below the waterline with 2 Groco units. One less thing to worry about. On the other hand, they are very common now in boats built after 2000.

Ted

If you have a bronze seacock well forward and away from all other metal (more than 5 feet) and all it is connected to is a vinyl or rubber hose...you can get away without bonding it if you don't want to.

psneeld said:

If you have a bronze seacock well forward and away from all other metal (more than 5 feet) and all it is connected to is a vinyl or rubber hose...you can get away without bonding it if you don't want to.

Click to expand...

While this generally true, seacocks with water flowing through them often (air conditioner water pump) are more subject to deterioration. My simple answer on the dive boat was to put a tee after the seacock and install a large (3/4"mpt) heat exchanger pencil zinc. When it's time to winterize, I pull the zinc, close the seacock, and pump rv antifreeze through that port.

Ted

I'm a big fan of Groco products. I think they are well made and a good value.
The Flanged Adapter and ball valve like psneeld used is a very good way to go as it makes it easy to change the valve.

psneeld, you could have used a better link to show it. One that leads to a cheaper price. I'd put the correct link here but I'm not allowed.

If you are going to replace the mounting pads as well, Groco now makes fiberglass pads similar to the G10 pads shown in the Compass Marine instructions. They'll save you quite a bit of time and I think some money.

They are pre drilled to fit Groco and Apollo Seacocks and the Groco Flanged Adapter.

The Groco Seacock shown in the picture has a couple of nice features. The square hole in the handle will accept a 3/8" socket ratchet or breaker bar if you need to extend it. You can also set it to close either to the left or right. Most seacocks will only close in one direction and can be difficult to mount where you want it.

Heard from the grapevine these guys got good prices.
http://www.hopkins-carter.com/pumps---plumbing-seacocks--strainers----scoops-seacocks.html

Sorry HopCar....absolutely correct....an old habit and with my travels to FL every year now and my girlfriends best friend moving to Miami...I'll bet I can always find the top supplier in the US close by....

....just have to negotiate my discount for the rickety, old boat that needs a lot!!

You guys are the best! Thanks!

O C Diver said:

While this generally true, seacocks with water flowing through them often (air conditioner water pump) are more subject to deterioration. My simple answer on the dive boat was to put a tee after the seacock and install a large (3/4"mpt) heat exchanger pencil zinc. When it's time to winterize, I pull the zinc, close the seacock, and pump rv antifreeze through that port.

Ted

Click to expand...

Good idea...the zinc is definitely belt and suspenders from my experience but definitely creative and practical...

O C Diver said:

While this generally true, seacocks with water flowing through them often (air conditioner water pump) are more subject to deterioration. My simple answer on the dive boat was to put a tee after the seacock and install a large (3/4"mpt) heat exchanger pencil zinc. When it's time to winterize, I pull the zinc, close the seacock, and pump rv antifreeze through that port.

Ted

Click to expand...

I like this idea.

"My simple answer on the dive boat was to put a tee after the seacock and install a large (3/4"mpt) heat exchanger pencil zinc."

Great idea!

Larry M said:

Andy: If you're looking for a Grocco BV-1000 1" Full Flow Ball Valve, I still have a brand new one for sale.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s9/grocco-bv-1000-1-full-flow-ball-valve-14113.html

Click to expand...

I think I am looking for 8 sea cocks in all.

Andy G said:

I think I am looking for 8 sea cocks in all.

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Any possibility for a sea chest?