Chain Hooks

I'm considering moving to an all chain rode. I have a small boat at 28' & 8,500lbs. I'm using a 25lb Manson Supreme with 30 ft. of 1/4" ss chain and 200' of 1/2" line now. I would like to move to 100ft. of 1/4" HT chain backed with line. I don't intend to typically get beyond the chain and into the anchor line at all, if possible.

I'm looking at chain hooks. It's difficult to find a 1/4" chain hook. What would you suggest for chain snubbing?

Greetings,
Mr. S. Mantus Anchors | Mantus Chain Hook There ya go...

OR...

Thanks, I should have clarified. I am familiar with them, I was simply having a difficult time finding a chandlery which sold them in the 1/4" size. IT looks like I can purchase directly from Mantus and Wichard. for example, West Marine was only advertising a 10mm vesion of the Wichard. Defender Industries wasn't much better.

Many thanks

Lowes has them.

So you rarely anchor beyond 5' of water?
30' chain minus 3' freeboard is 27' rode at only 5:1 scope that is 27/5=5.7' depth

bayview said:

So you rarely anchor beyond 5' of water?
30' chain minus 3' freeboard is 27' rode at only 5:1 scope that is 27/5=5.7' depth

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Hmmm, that sounds like you might be calculating the 30ft. of chain and not the 200 ft. of line behind it. I had mentioned in my original post that I have 30 ft. of chain and 200 ft. of line. I typically anchor at 7:1. The intention is to move to 100 ft of chain and use an all chain rode most of the time. I can't recall the last time I anchored in more than 10-12 ft. of water in the last 8 years. I'll leave anchor line backing up the 100 ft. of chain, though I doubt I'll get to beyond 100ft. of rode very frequently.

I appreciate that you calculated freeboard, as most people don't factor the distance from the bowroller to the water in their depth calculations. Or the distance between their transducer and the water for that matter.

Oops, I missed the all chain plan. Sorry

I do not advise using a standard chain hook like the "eye grab" pictured in RTF's summary. They tend to twist the chain and its link. Also the easiest to fall off, as I learned on a couple of charters, finally substituting a rolling hitch.

I had the ABI pictured, but I don't think it is made any more. Served us extremely well in hundreds of nights including some terrible conditions. But so did a rolling hitch (or two) for that matter, which preceded a friend giving me the ABI as a present. I liked the double bridle aspect; the boat tends to lay to one line or the other as it horses, except in big blows, when you get both taut. But so did a rolling hitch (or two) for that matter, which preceded a friend giving me the ABI as a present. Something like the Mantus or the devil's claw types:

We use a V-bridle snubber with our all-chain rode and use a slotted chain gripper with a shackle attached to the upper corners (similar to the attached illustration).

Each snubber line has a karabiner at one end that clips to one of the shackles. The snubber lines are brought in through the port and starboard bow hawses and cleated to the two foredeck cleats.

I don't know if these plates come in different slot sizes. If not, and if you wanted to use one of these with smaller chain, I suppose it would be simple enough to have a machine shop cut one out of a sheet of stainless for you with the correct size slot and holes.

Marin said:

We use a V-bridle snubber with our all-chain rode and use a slotted chain gripper with a shackle attached to the upper corners (similar to the attached illustration).

Each snubber line has a karabiner at one end that clips to one of the shackles. The snubber lines are brought in through the port and starboard bow hawses and cleated to the two foredeck cleats.

I don't know if these plates come in different slot sizes. If not, and if you wanted to use one of these with smaller chain, I suppose it would be simple enough to have a machine shop cut one out of a sheet of stainless for you with the correct size slot and holes.

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Have you found a place to get those? Quite a few people have seen our rig but haven't been able to source one, one guy went so far as to have a machine shop fabricate one. Here's ours:

I have the victory that's pictured with several other types and have been very happy with it. It stays on the chain with out any problems of falling off even with slack in the chain while retrieving the anchor.

Shrew said:

I'm considering moving to an all chain rode. I have a small boat at 28' & 8,500lbs. I'm using a 25lb Manson Supreme with 30 ft. of 1/4" ss chain and 200' of 1/2" line now. I would like to move to 100ft. of 1/4" HT chain backed with line. I don't intend to typically get beyond the chain and into the anchor line at all, if possible.

I'm looking at chain hooks. It's difficult to find a 1/4" chain hook. What would you suggest for chain snubbing?

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None of the above.

Just go with a soft shackle made with Dyneema/Amsteel. The breaking strength of 1/8" exceeds that of the chain hooks and your chain, they are easy to put on and can't fall off and they don't beat up the topside paint.

caltexflanc said:

Have you found a place to get those?

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Fisheries Supply carries them, or at least has them listed in their catalog. That's what I lifted the illustration out of.

Delfin said:

None of the above.

Just go with a soft shackle made with Dyneema/Amsteel. The breaking strength of 1/8" exceeds that of the chain hooks and your chain, they are easy to put on and can't fall off and they don't beat up the topside paint.

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Disagree; you want something that will stretch, that's the whole point.

caltexflanc said:

Disagree; you want something that will stretch, that's the whole point.

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I think what they are saying is you use the soft shackle to connect the snubber line to the chain in the same way as a hook.......

caltexflanc said:

Disagree; you want something that will stretch, that's the whole point.

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You want a chain hook that stretches?

If you don't, and I am struggling understanding why anyone would, a soft shackle is far superior to any chain hook for attaching a snub line to the chain for the reasons stated.

rochepoint said:

I think what they are saying is you use the soft shackle to connect the snubber line to the chain in the same way as a hook.......

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Like this photo shows.

Believe the OP's rode set-up (combination chain and line) is the better idea for his boat.

rochepoint said:

Like this photo shows.

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Yup. Stronger than a chain hook, and easier to use.

I've had good luck with this Anchor Shockles when anchored with all chain. When I let out enough for my line rode, of course, it's not needed.

Marin said:

I don't know if these plates come in different slot sizes.

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The Sea Dog ones do not. The one size is supposed to fit 'all types of chains in the following sizes: 5/16", 3/8", 7/16" and 1/2" '.

Downwind Marine carries them also.

I would add my support for a a soft shackle in this application.

They are very strong, reliable, quick and easy to do and undo, no chance of jam, can be cut (with difficulty) if this ever becomes necessary. They can be wound over the bow roller without any risk of damaging anything. Finally they don't wear the galvanising like a chain hook can.

The only drawback compared to a chain hook is that they need to be within reach to do or undo. Some of the chain hooks can be flicked off once the pressure on the snubber is released.

I have used one for the last 150 nights at at anchor and it has been my best solution for snubber attachment. Give one a try. If you don't like it soft shackles have lots of other boat uses, so it won't go to waste.

They can be made quite inexpensively, but my wife does this so I cannot give any practical tips.

Most sail boat snap shakels are rated to 6000lbs , ez on ez off , and wont just fall off as a chain claw might.

Most likely it will be for a night or two , so wearing the galvanizing out on a chain link is not an issue.

Yes the snubber has not got the same strength as the chain so in most circumstances it is going to snap before the shackle, but you still do need to be a little careful.

If you take the key pin shackle shown in post# 21 for example. Wichard list the WL (working load) as only 800kg for the largest model with an 8mm pin.

Anchoring forces can exceed this. If the pin bends and it jams it is going to be difficult and slow to fix, at least on leaping foredeck with a dragging anchor.

It would need some extreme conditions for this to occur but for most boats the chain could not be retrieved until the shackle was removed.

If one expects to have a smooth anchor ride the best start is to purchase 30 ft of line from 1/4 inch up.

To be effective the nylon must stretch and it takes 10% to 15% of the lines rated load to Begin to stretch.

Only light line will stretch enough to bother with as a snubber..

When you finally decide what weight is best for your boat install the line to a U bolt as close to the waterline as you can.

Make the line long , BUT not long enough to reach the prop if lost overboard.

The difference in the boats ride anchored in slop can be amazing.

Most times we anchor with 5/8 nylon , almost no chain , and a thin snubber with a hitch will take the shock loading out of the anchor system.

OK got it, indeed I read the post as making the whole assembly up out of Dyneema. Soft shackles are cool and useful but I, for my own skills, dispute that they are easier to secure and unsecure to chain than a proper chain hook. Also one thing I didn't like in using rolling hitches was difficulty running the line around outside and up through the pulpit chute (I learned to not like running it straight through the pulpit for a few reasons). I guess I would also be a little paranoid, perhaps unjustifiably, about them loosening up while slack. I've seen sail boat guys add lashing in some applications to offset this.

With the double bridle set up, it can be pre set and ready to go and out of the way. Yes, it is a little awkward some times reaching through the chute to drop the hook on. However, a side benefit is that when retrieving, detaching is easy and I leave it rigged so that if the anchor needs extra breaking out I can reattach it quickly, taking the load completely off the pulpit and windlass; one of the reasons I don't like running snubber lines through the chute.

markpierce said:

Believe the OP's rode set-up (combination chain and line) is the better idea for his boat.

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And I would tend to agree with you. I think an all chain rode is completely overkill for my boat. The catenary achieved with a all chain rode is appealing on principal, but not necessary for my application under normal circumstances.

I anchor from Friday to Sunday every single weekend of the boating season. I tend to do this is in very, very crowded anchorages which are also frequented by a large number of small day boaters. Many boaters seem to think the anchor line disappears once it goes under water. While the others discount how much draft they are actually drawing. The result is I have had my anchor wound in someone's wheel more than once.

In addition, I like the shorter swing radius when things get confused as well as the ability to more safely short-scope when things get tight.

These are my reasons for considering all chain. My reasons for this post have been realized by many who have discussed the chain hook dropping off. That is one of the reasons a simple chain/lifting hook (such as one from a home store) is a concern of mine.

I intend on rigging a double bridle. I don't have a windlass, so the admiral is up there hauling a 25lb anchor by hand. I'm not about to start asking her to tie rolling blocks and the like. The solution I provide her must be very easy to deploy. The Mantus is very appealing.

It looks to me from the photo that you need to tie a knot every time you use the Dyneema "chain hook." Is that correct? Then to remove it you need to untie the knot?

I made a dinghy lifting bridle of Dyneema for a friend. Lightweight and soft. He used it twice, then replaced it with SS wire rope. He (and me too) couldn't wrap his head around the fact that Dyneema is that kind of strong. I know it is, but it seems impossible.

Howard

caltexflanc said:

OK got it, indeed I read the post as making the whole assembly up out of Dyneema. Soft shackles are cool and useful but I, for my own skills, dispute that they are easier to secure and unsecure to chain than a proper chain hook. Also one thing I didn't like in using rolling hitches was difficulty running the line around outside and up through the pulpit chute (I learned to not like running it straight through the pulpit for a few reasons). I guess I would also be a little paranoid, perhaps unjustifiably, about them loosening up while slack. I've seen sail boat guys add lashing in some applications to offset this.

With the double bridle set up, it can be pre set and ready to go and out of the way. Yes, it is a little awkward some times reaching through the chute to drop the hook on. However, a side benefit is that when retrieving, detaching is easy and I leave it rigged so that if the anchor needs extra breaking out I can reattach it quickly, taking the load completely off the pulpit and windlass; one of the reasons I don't like running snubber lines through the chute.

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I've been using the single snubber with rolling hitch over the pulpit roller...what have you seen that's an issue if you don't mind????

PM if better...