Teak Deck Removal

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I did the same for my flybridge soft spot. Area repaired was 7 feet by 3 1/2 feet.

The teak was slow going till I gave up and used a 1/2 inch drill with a 3/4 hole saw no mandrel to drill around the bungs. The teak then pulled up easy and the black stuff came up easy to..what didn't easily sanded. The screws then were easy to deal with...if the head was good, the 1/2 inch drill was used, if the screw head was filled with goop or repair goop...vice grips easily spun it out. The whole bridge deck with cutting out the seats only took a couple days once I discovered the hole saw method.

For the soft spot a circular saw was used to cut the top skin and down through the block core, pulled out all the teak blocks...because the roof beams were so close...I used 1/2 inch marine 7ply as the core with just with splotches of thickened epoxy to tack it down, epoxied the top skin back on and faired in the cuts. Whole top deck got a layer of 6oz cloth, 18 oz roving and topped with 6oz cloth. Paint and non-skid but ultimately will have a light grey outdoor carpet cover the whole area to hide the occasional imperfection, provide traction and a bit of insulation.

Top pic finished repair prior to painting, bottom pic exploratory surgery...


How did the carpeting past of the project turn out? My flybridge deck is solid, following a re-do by the PO but a little bumpy the way the "non-skid" was applied. I have been thinking about covering it all with exterior carpet. I see lots of Searay-type boats, as well as pontoon and deck boats, with exposed carpeting, and of course it's an additional maintenance item, but what I have now ain't great-looking. Has anyone else done this? Regrets?
 
How did the carpeting past of the project turn out? My flybridge deck is solid, following a re-do by the PO but a little bumpy the way the "non-skid" was applied. I have been thinking about covering it all with exterior carpet. I see lots of Searay-type boats, as well as pontoon and deck boats, with exposed carpeting, and of course it's an additional maintenance item, but what I have now ain't great-looking. Has anyone else done this? Regrets?

$75 clearance outdoor carpet at Lowes, great nonskid, bought enough for dash under front/rear salon windows and flybridge.....even enough for interior and stair treads if I want to make it simple and don't want expensive throw rugs. Can be edged for $1.00/foot.
 

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I have three small areas ( 1-2' size ) that are soft however my maintenance guy said once he starts they will extend in size. He also said that it could take up to 8-10wks to repair. This for me will be placing it in the Marina yard shed or erecting a shelter like Chip built and doing it on my property. I am contemplating looking at building a quonset sometime in the future on my property for maintenance work and storage anyway. I have however a couple of dilemmas, one the weather and two when to actually do this. If I get it done during the off season the yard shed becomes expensive not to mention the labor and material. If I do it during boating season ( short up my way ) I lose time on the water. My maintenance guy said that if I needed a Survey done and I had it done before and after repairs it probably wouldn't increase the figure by much but the long-term contentment and preventative measures would be worth it. Maybe I'll wait until I retire in 5 or so years and do it myself during the off season.

Elwin
 
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$75 clearance outdoor carpet at Lowes, great nonskid, bought enough for dash under front/rear salon windows and flybridge.....even enough for interior and stair treads if I want to make it simple and don't want expensive throw rugs. Can be edged for $1.00/foot.

If you used a polyurethane paint on the deck, keep an eye on the finish. The carpet can trap and hold moisture. This can (most likely will) cause blistering or de-lamination of the painted surface. This is one of the downsides of urethane paints.
 
If you used a polyurethane paint on the deck, keep an eye on the finish. The carpet can trap and hold moisture. This can (most likely will) cause blistering or de-lamination of the painted surface. This is one of the downsides of urethane paints.

Thanks...the stuff is pretty thin and dries fast (no backing) which is why I wanted it...
 
and re-coring the deck and replacing with fiberglass?

A far easier and stronger job is done by simply cleaning the teak off and grinding the old top surface to glass.

Then a core material can be installed , usually with thickened Epoxy troweled , and weight placed on the core material.

When the entire deck is core covered the top GRP layers are added .This can be cheaper vynelester

This gives a far stiffer and stronger (and insulated) deck with no huge weight increase of enough layers of glass to restore stiffness.
 
Removing Teak Decks on Grand Banks 42'

Anyone take the Decks Off a Grand Banks 42? Anyone know of anyone in Mass/R/I who does it professionally??? Would appreciate any advice on the job!
Thanks,
Will
 
Pose your question on the Grand Banks owner forum ( www.grandbanksowners.com ). Some of the GB forum members have done this, and the founder of the forum, Bob Lowe, for years ran Oak Harbor Boatworks, a yard in this area that specializes in the maintenance, repair, upgrading, and customization of Grand Banks boats. He probably knows more about what's involved in this task than most other people out there.
 
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