Electro San Issues

I'm getting a "mix motor overload" warning ob my electro San.

I've called them twice and the last time they assured me that the directions for dealing with it using muriatic acid (hcl) were in the manual.

I'd thought I'd read the manual pretty well, but I assumed I missed something.

Got off the expensive phone call and discovered that in fact I had already downloaded everything there was and the only mention I found was during first installation.

So, before Monday, when I will call them again and...

I was wondering if anyone has such directions and if so, please e-mail them or a link to me.

Thanks

Wxx3 said:

I'm getting a "mix motor overload" warning ob my electro San.

I've called them twice and the last time they assured me that the directions for dealing with it using muriatic acid (hcl) were in the manual.

I'd thought I'd read the manual pretty well, but I assumed I missed something.

Got off the expensive phone call and discovered that in fact I had already downloaded everything there was and the only mention I found was during first installation.

So, before Monday, when I will call them again and...

I was wondering if anyone has such directions and if so, please e-mail them or a link to me.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Richard

Something isn't making sense to me...

If you had a low current alarm, I could see where muratic acid might be used to fix that.

Mix motor overload sounds to me like your unit is getting clogged up with possibly some non disolving TP or some really hard turds

Thats how I remember the alarms on mine, and thats what it says in the owners manual. Acid is only a fix for low current alarms it appears.

I will get my manual from the boat and let you know in a few.

I have my manual out. It states that for mix motor overld - mixer motor amps were high, check for foreign material in mixer chamber, seal leaks, motor shorts.
I guess the muratic acid could break something loose that is causing the blockage.
The Electrode cleaning - abreviated version
1. flush several times.
2> turn off water supply and flush till dry.
3 turn power off to unit.
4 disconnect white red and orange wires at control box.
5plastic bucket mix 1.5 pints muratic acid with 3 gallons water.
6 pour solution into toilet and flush till bowl is dry
7 pour 1 gallon of fresh water into bowl to dilute any acid remaining
8 allow to stand for a minimum of 45 minutes.
turnn water supply and flush only the toilet a minimum of 10 gallons of water to dilute and discharge muratic acid solution.
reconnect wires and turn power back on.

Keep in mind that the manual does not have this listed for a mix motor overld.
Good luck

step 6 make sure you are flushing only toilet not running lectascan.

I guess Raritan is hoping you can clean off anything that could be binding up near the top of the stirrer? I guess it's also possible that the tank where the stirrer is has had a gradual buildup that now it's interfering with stirring...but wow...that's a longshot.

I would try the muriatic cleaning and several more flushes without actually using the toilet...after that if you need to pull a hose and look in or take the top off it won't be bad at all.

I keep a connector and some hose to bypass the Electrscan if I must..hopefully yours is plumbed to be possibly out of the system also.

Mixing motors

I think the mixing motors are prone to fail. I know of two besides my own that have failed over time with steady use. One of my friends has been buying his Electroscans at West Marine with the extended warranty. He takes them back and gets a new unit when they fail. In my case the mixing motors had corroded so bad they froze up. I noticed the motor overload warning for a couple of days before the motor froze. In my case I use salt water injection to provide the needed salt water to make the Electroscan work in fresh water. Perhaps the super salty solution causes the aluminum motor base to corrode and fail. The paint was gone and the motor base corroded so bad the bearing froze. Steve's looked good on the outside of the case but was corroded in the case. Fortunately they are easy to replace. I just bought the top of the tank with motors and 1hr later was up and running.

ksanders said:

Richard

Something isn't making sense to me...

If you had a low current alarm, I could see where muratic acid might be used to fix that.

Mix motor overload sounds to me like your unit is getting clogged up with possibly some non disolving TP or some really hard turds

Thats how I remember the alarms on mine, and thats what it says in the owners manual. Acid is only a fix for low current alarms it appears.

Click to expand...

I think the "low electrode" warning indicates a lack of salt issue. I have had freshwater flush heads and that warning has always been fixed by resetting and adding salt to the salt tank.

Rogerh said:

I have my manual out. It states that for mix motor overld - mixer motor amps were high, check for foreign material in mixer chamber, seal leaks, motor shorts.
I guess the muratic acid could break something loose that is causing the blockage.
The Electrode cleaning - abreviated version
1. flush several times.
2> turn off water supply and flush till dry.
3 turn power off to unit.
4 disconnect white red and orange wires at control box.
5plastic bucket mix 1.5 pints muratic acid with 3 gallons water.
6 pour solution into toilet and flush till bowl is dry
7 pour 1 gallon of fresh water into bowl to dilute any acid remaining
8 allow to stand for a minimum of 45 minutes.
turnn water supply and flush only the toilet a minimum of 10 gallons of water to dilute and discharge muratic acid solution.
reconnect wires and turn power back on.

Keep in mind that the manual does not have this listed for a mix motor overld.
Good luck

Click to expand...

Thanks All,

This is what I needed. Don't understand why I couldn't find it on line myself.

Next challenge is that no one in this town knows muriatic acid. Hopefully in Waterford.

Scary said:

I think the mixing motors are prone to fail. I know of two besides my own that have failed over time with steady use. One of my friends has been buying his Electroscans at West Marine with the extended warranty. He takes them back and gets a new unit when they fail. In my case the mixing motors had corroded so bad they froze up. I noticed the motor overload warning for a couple of days before the motor froze. In my case I use salt water injection to provide the needed salt water to make the Electroscan work in fresh water. Perhaps the super salty solution causes the aluminum motor base to corrode and fail. The paint was gone and the motor base corroded so bad the bearing froze. Steve's looked good on the outside of the case but was corroded in the case. Fortunately they are easy to replace. I just bought the top of the tank with motors and 1hr later was up and running.

Click to expand...

These are the same symptoms of mine.

What do you mean just" the top of the tank"?

Richard, muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid, HCl. If you need Raritan help, Mac McCoy in their Ft. lauderdale office is good. If I can help, just ask.

HopCar said:

Richard, muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid, HCl. If you need Raritan help, Mac McCoy in their Ft. lauderdale office is good. If I can help, just ask.

Click to expand...

I know.

I'm of an age when they actually let us use real chemicals in chemistry class.

When they gave me that blank stare when I asked about muriatic acid, you should have seen the look when I said, hydrochloric acid!

When Vic William worked for Raritan he told me the #1 cause of problems with these units was the through the circuit board rivets. They carry high current DC to the motors. He suggested soldering the rivets through the board, this fixed a large percentage of the units I worked on and was able to bring back to life.
I'm not saying this is the problem but the potential fix is worth trying.
Bill

Richard, I'm guessing there are not a lot of swimming pool supply stores in Ireland.

Electroscan

Wxx3 said:

These are the same symptoms of mine.

What do you mean just" the top of the tank"?

Click to expand...

On the Electroscan the mixing tank top is bolted to the case with 20 or so nuts and bolts and a black neoprene gasket. The replacement comes with top two motors and pvc fittings that need to be glued on the top. Mine didn't come with the salt water port for injection which I was able to install using pvc cement and a barbed pvc fitting. When I installed mine I had ordered it with the salt water tank and pump so I believe the Electroscan mixing tank came with the fitting for salt water injection. The low voltage warning, low amperage warning, and motor overload warning are all separate conditions and warnings. Low amperage can be caused by corroded platinum plates, not enough salt in the solution, or too much resistance in electrical connections from the power source. Low voltage is just that, not enough voltage because of low batteries or resistance in cabling or connections. Motor overload is caused by fowled blades or a damaged mixing motor. I believe you need over 14 amps to for the Electroscan to work. The acid would probably clean the plates and possibly help break up solid waste than has stopped the mixing motor. In any event if you can access your Electroscan unit it is not difficult to check.

Picture of tank

Scary said:

On the Electroscan the mixing tank top is bolted to the case with 20 or so nuts and bolts and a black neoprene gasket. The replacement comes with top two motors and pvc fittings that need to be glued on the top. Mine didn't come with the salt water port for injection which I was able to install using pvc cement and a barbed pvc fitting. When I installed mine I had ordered it with the salt water tank and pump so I believe the Electroscan mixing tank came with the fitting for salt water injection. The low voltage warning, low amperage warning, and motor overload warning are all separate conditions and warnings. Low amperage can be caused by corroded platinum plates, not enough salt in the solution, or too much resistance in electrical connections from the power source. Low voltage is just that, not enough voltage because of low batteries or resistance in cabling or connections. Motor overload is caused by fowled blades or a damaged mixing motor. I believe you need over 14 amps to for the Electroscan to work. The acid would probably clean the plates and possibly help break up solid waste than has stopped the mixing motor. In any event if you can access your Electroscan unit it is not difficult to check.

Click to expand...

Here's my layout.

Richard - Word of caution. I noted suggestion of running toilet/ElectroSan dry. Not knowing your toilet / ES set up... I do know that if I run my toilet intake or out-go pump dry there is chance that I could screw up impellers. Impellers and their containment surround like to have at lease some moisture for lubrication. Best, Luck!

Thanks Scary,

I see a lot of corrosion at the base of the mixer motor. I'll try to do easiest thing first, which is to find HCl.

While my box is under the need like yours, the forward bilge is sealed up. So I'll have to disconnect and pull it towards the center of the boat to get it out.

I'll try to get this done in the next few days as I'll be back in the US next week, and if I need a new top, I'll get it then.

Any idea on price?

Seems like it was under $500

Wxx3 said:

Thanks Scary,

I see a lot of corrosion at the base of the mixer motor. I'll try to do easiest thing first, which is to find HCl.

While my box is under the need like yours, the forward bilge is sealed up. So I'll have to disconnect and pull it towards the center of the boat to get it out.

I'll try to get this done in the next few days as I'll be back in the US next week, and if I need a new top, I'll get it then.

Any idea on price?

Click to expand...

Not cheap, but I remember it as under $500.

Wxx3 said:

Thanks All,

This is what I needed. Don't understand why I couldn't find it on line myself.

Next challenge is that no one in this town knows muriatic acid. Hopefully in Waterford.

Click to expand...

Try asking for it by it's other name, hydrochloric acid.

Richard before you start ordering parts, is your system an Electra San or an Electro Scan? The Electro Scan is the newer version and I think that is what you have but make sure.

I think muriatic acid is a weaker/diluted form of hydrochloric acid rather than an equivalent alternative. Could be important.

BruceK said:

I think muriatic acid is a weaker/diluted form of hydrochloric acid rather than an equivalent alternative. Could be important.

Click to expand...

Yes

Raritan sells a product called C.H. or Cleans Hoses which is made specifically for cleaning Lectra San and Electro Scan sanitation systems.

Its kind of pricy, but is concentrated and might be worth a look.

Capt Bill,

Didn't you see my response to Parks?

What I left out was that as soon as I mentioned hydrochloric acid, they started edging towards the telephone to call the anti-terrorism squad.

BruceK said:

I think muriatic acid is a weaker/diluted form of hydrochloric acid rather than an equivalent alternative. Could be important.

Click to expand...

Thanks Bruce,
I knew that, in fact I think it's only a 10% solution.

Now that I'm Waterford, I'll find it.