1988 Albin interior teak

Some of you enjoyed the pics of me ripping the bottom off my boat...thought you would like to see me ripping the interior out by hand.

The PO obviously let the former OEM windows leak forever...then had some hack cover every square inch of the interior with some stain to cover the water stains.

The good news is..it seems like a 4 layer, thin teak ply was glued to a slightly thicker ply or it was just teak ply that had a REALLY thick coat of glue part way though.

I say that is because 4 layers were rotten and could be stripped by hand..but after that..the ply seems solid out to the fiberglass exterior.

I'm stripping and using T&G pine paneling stained with min-wax white pickling....seem most peoples favorite of all the things I showed them.

Looks nice I like it.

Thank you...

Pic #4 is "stained" with the pickling....#3 is still raw awaiting staining.

The main reason I posted is for the guys with deep rot in the corners of their windows...the rot area is pretty small but the delamination of the top couple veneers is total throughout my boat...the good news is it is not delamed all the way though despite my extensive problems. Everything seemed pretty sound when I viewed the boat in FLA when buying...but after a winter in NJ of freeze/thaw...the paneling started disintegrating.

For some of the total *** that may come here to read me the riot act about buying a POS... you are only right to a point... I needed something quick in a certain price range....I would have never bought this boat under a lot of other circumstances.

While cosmetically a POS...she's travelled 5000 miles just fine and been a home for coming up on 3 years.

Interesting choice. I can see how it might work. You get a lighter interior which makes the space feel bigger while adding some texture to the walls. I just wonder if it's to much texture in a small space?

And F anybody that thinks you bought a POS. Your out there 23/7 living and cruising on a boat. Way more than many can say.

Scott, makes me glad that mine was pretty leak/stain free and we have been able to keep up with it so far (we did a lot of window R&R though).
However, we know we are only one bad rainstorm away from having to do as you did.

That said, when we rebuilt under the aft deck last fall (the "head bang area) I used the same beadboard as a finish. We stained it dark to help it blend with the teak color but it didn't take stain very well.

Nice job.

Capt.Bill11 said:

Interesting choice. I can see how it might work. You get a lighter interior which makes the space feel bigger while adding some texture to the walls. I just wonder if it's to much texture in a small space?

And F anybody that thinks you bought a POS. Your out there 23/7 living and cruising on a boat. Way more than many can say.

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Thanks...some Defevers I have seen had the beadboard paneling and I thought it nice.

Not covering everything...just the parts I thought needed stiffening where the most rot (near windows and corners) was.

Looking for something thin for the other areas that's not mold/dust collector but easier to work with than formica and similar (due to the oddball shapes).

The comment toward bashers was to head off the "if you're so smart and experienced...how did you buy a POS?" well as I said I had my reasons and knew of most f the boats issues...the others were hidden from even the surveyor and this interior ply issue has me baffled. I would swear the boat had sunk if there were all the other telltale clues.

I am also curious why the top 4 plys rotted so easily...almost if they were glued on separately from the 1/2 base ply that was glassed to....

jleonard said:

Scott, makes me glad that mine was pretty leak/stain free and we have been able to keep up with it so far (we did a lot of window R&R though).
However, we know we are only one bad rainstorm away from having to do as you did.

That said, when we rebuilt under the aft deck last fall (the "head bang area) I used the same beadboard as a finish. We stained it dark to help it blend with the teak color but it didn't take stain very well.

Nice job.

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Thanks....not so sure I shouldn't start an Albin refinishing center...by the time I'm done...there won't be much I haven't redone.

psneeld said:

I am also curious why the top 4 plys rotted so easily...almost if they were glued on separately from the 1/2 base ply that was glassed to....

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They probably were.

My PO and friend removed removable trim, dealt with any rot, leveled and used textured, paintable wall paper. Painted a light almond, reinstalled the refinished teak trim and refinished various teak not removable. The whole interior just "pops" out at you. Very obviously updated and tasteful. Lightened everything up by eliminating the teak veneer.

Mule said:

My PO and friend removed removable trim, dealt with any rot, leveled and used textured, paintable wall paper. Painted a light almond, reinstalled the refinished teak trim and refinished various teak not removable. The whole interior just "pops" out at you. Very obviously updated and tasteful. Lightened everything up by eliminating the teak veneer.

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Thanks...may do that on some areas that I don't think need reinforcing.

Looking good. Nice thumb nail by the way. I bet that hurt.

Larry M said:

Looking good. Nice thumb nail by the way. I bet that hurt.

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If you aren't black and blue or bleeding...you haven't really been working on your boat....

or you are the most nimble, careful and thick skinned animal on the planet....

Either my boat or the work boat or a friensds boat always get's me someplace. A burr on a bolt head, tip of safety wire, broken hose clamp, etc.

My mom thought I was trying to commit suicide...had to tell her you go for the wrists...not the back and middle of your calf or upper arm...

I have the identical problem on one of the walls in my V berth due to the idiot PO forgetting? not bothering? to close the hatch when he left the boat for weeks at a time. The outer layers of paneling has delaminated but the inner layers are as solid as a rock. In fact I'm certain I could cleanly peel away the outer layers & refinish the underlying paneling and no one would be the wiser. My guess is that they fused select teak veneer panels to structural quality teak plywood and the glue used in the veneer panels is failing, or perhaps was never even waterproof to start with. Also the same as you, this was not apparent when I bought the boat but only started showing up as I began fixing leaks and drying out the boat. The dryer it got, the worse the paneling delaminated in the areas where it had been damp. In addition I noted that nearly all the paneling throughout the boat as it continued to dry (boat is under cover) developed tiny slits along the grain as if someone scored it with tiny razor cuts. I've heard it said that drying out a wet boat can cause as many problems as it solves, perhaps this is the case.

The comment toward bashers was to head off the "if you're so smart and experienced...how did you buy a POS?"

We "all" purchased with known / unknown faults and I doubt anyone here thinks you bought a POS. Quite the opposite, I imagine most see it as a calculated, informed decision by someone who has spent a lifetime messing about with boats. Such being the case, the very fact that "you" settled on this make/model/design despite the known faults speaks highly for the brand.

Da rot

psneeld said:

Thanks...may do that on some areas that I don't think need reinforcing.

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No matter what the final wall covering is the rot will have to be dealt with. There is a place in Michigan that has veneer rolls at very attractive prices and a HUGE selection...Oakwood Veneer as I recall. Nicely priced also. I veneered out my 34 Mainship, but the paintable textured wallpaper looks far better with the teak trim high lighting.

The traditionalist will be aghast but I too when white. One of my earlier boats had a lot of interior teak and painting a lot of it white improved the interior greatly IMO.

bayview said:

The traditionalist will be aghast but I too when white. One of my earlier boats had a lot of interior teak and painting a lot of it white improved the interior greatly IMO.

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Actually...from where I come from...the traditional boat (Jersey Sea Skiff, Lobster boat, etc...was white formica/painted panels and mahogany or oak varnished trim,

The dark interior teak is a yuppie thing as far as I remember from the 70-90's. Idiotic on all accounts as far I'm concerned....never looked good to me even when new.

Capt Kangeroo said:

I have the identical problem on one of the walls in my V berth due to the idiot PO forgetting? not bothering? to close the hatch when he left the boat for weeks at a time. The outer layers of paneling has delaminated but the inner layers are as solid as a rock. In fact I'm certain I could cleanly peel away the outer layers & refinish the underlying paneling and no one would be the wiser. My guess is that they fused select teak veneer panels to structural quality teak plywood and the glue used in the veneer panels is failing, or perhaps was never even waterproof to start with. Also the same as you, this was not apparent when I bought the boat but only started showing up as I began fixing leaks and drying out the boat. The dryer it got, the worse the paneling delaminated in the areas where it had been damp. In addition I noted that nearly all the paneling throughout the boat as it continued to dry (boat is under cover) developed tiny slits along the grain as if someone scored it with tiny razor cuts. I've heard it said that drying out a wet boat can cause as many problems as it solves, perhaps this is the case.

The comment toward bashers was to head off the "if you're so smart and experienced...how did you buy a POS?"

We "all" purchased with known / unknown faults and I doubt anyone here thinks you bought a POS. Quite the opposite, I imagine most see it as a calculated, informed decision by someone who has spent a lifetime messing about with boats. Such being the case, the very fact that "you" settled on this make/model/design despite the known faults speaks highly for the brand.

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I knew I did...

But as I said to the surveyor...just tell me it won't fall apart before I get it to Jersey...I need a sound engine and hull for the price. The engine was a new recon only 2 yrs old with about 200 hrs on it (has performed flawlessly for 1000 hrs more) but he missed the really bad hull...which I eventually caught but didn't like the 4 month laying on my back grinding and glassing.

Albins may be better than the majority of TT''s from that era...but after a close look at building and engineering, I'm less than impressed.

I say the same about older Shamrock keel drives....yntil you have almost completely dismantled a boat...you really can't say they are built well...or are "built like a tank"....boating magazines and most other boaters are truly clueless when it comes to well built boats.

I need to be doing the same thing soon, any more pics you can provide would help me evaluate how much work on my end. I have the same issue. Thanks very much for posting and sharing, I'm looking at a similar job myself. Do you have to do anything with your head liner or work around the support beams in the pilot house? I will need to do something around these.

Thanks!

I love the Herreshoff look of the dark wood trim on the white panels. I also like the look of a beige panel trimmed in dark wood. Interlux has a color called Grand Banks Beige that I really like. I think if Moonstruck's paneling is ever painted it will be the beige below and white up top on the helm deck.

Mule, great tip! I checked out the web site of the company you mentioned. Lots of great advice and tutorials. Wood Veneer: Exotic Wood Veneer Sheet Manufacturer: Burl Veneer | Oakwood Veneer Company

Apparently you "can" veneer over top of existing veneer if it's still sound and you use the right glue and backer.

Ben said:

I need to be doing the same thing soon, any more pics you can provide would help me evaluate how much work on my end. I have the same issue. Thanks very much for posting and sharing, I'm looking at a similar job myself. Do you have to do anything with your head liner or work around the support beams in the pilot house? I will need to do something around these.

Thanks!

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The headliner seems OK for now..it's just a door skin like plywood with vinyl glued to it but it's solid for now.

Because of the extent of the "grand cover-up"....not sure when I'll get to the beams and overhead. The beams seem to be the same...a couple layers of bad veneer over something more solid...I'm guessing just laminated ply...but as I said...haven't and won't get there for awahile. The quick spruce up will be paint the overhead...eventually remove or just cut up with decent access....put in good clear cable runs and then I may foam it or try and lay in as much insulation as possible...then cover the whole thing with something thin and new light fixtures.

Mule said:

No matter what the final wall covering is the rot will have to be dealt with. There is a place in Michigan that has veneer rolls at very attractive prices and a HUGE selection...Oakwood Veneer as I recall. Nicely priced also. I veneered out my 34 Mainship, but the paintable textured wallpaper looks far better with the teak trim high lighting.

Click to expand...

thanks...

with all the rotten veneer I've carried off the boat, the table saw cutting the bead board all day and making a wooden cover box for the assistance towboat...people at the marina have started to exclaim...

"I didn't know that was a wooden boat!!"

If it can rot in the future...it's life on my boat is coming to an end soon enough if practical...probably no to the veneer and I do like the painted wall paper!!

Wax paper

Capt Kangeroo said:

Mule, great tip! I checked out the web site of the company you mentioned. Lots of great advice and tutorials. Wood Veneer: Exotic Wood Veneer Sheet Manufacturer: Burl Veneer | Oakwood Veneer Company

Apparently you "can" veneer over top of existing veneer if it's still sound and you use the right glue and backer.

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I looked through Oakwoods instructions. I just skimmed so I may have missed it. Anyway, when using contact cement 2surfaces have to be coated. If they touch in the wrong places you are hosed.... For instance you are going to cover a large surface, you have dry fitted, your cement has flashed, you are ready to go and you miss your mark by 3/4 inch and it has touched...you may have to start over, possibly not even being able to salvage the veneer. It is critical to DIRTFT (do it right the first time). Here is your ins policy. After you have rolled on ur c cement to the veneer, cover the sticky side with wax paper, mate the upper edge, get it right and stuck THEN peel off the wax paper as u "iron or smooth" the recently perfectly dry fitted section on perfectly, thereby DIRTFT.

An update on the interior paneling....

Verified the construction was a relatively thin plywood structure bonded onto the glass cabin structure (which is relatively thin glass and gel) covered by a thin (4 layer) teak veneer on the inside. The proof was the magic marker notes between the ply and the veneer. Pic #1.

The teak veneer was put on with what appears to be contact cement.

The ply doesn't even come together in the corners of the cabin and it appears that just polyester filler is used to bulk up the corner....pic #2.

Believing what you read and hear from other boaters about the quality of construction about a particular brand of boats is met with amazement once you start tearing into a boat.

Often I've chuckled when people say "boy...they are built like tanks" about certain brands that I have gotten to know a little more intimately than the average boater.

Psneeld didn't buy a POS, he bought a boat the PO didn't maintain as well as it should have been. Unless you bought new, we all did that. I bought Lollygag knowing there is rot under one portlight in the V-berth. There is also some delam in the underlayment by the forward head. Leaks in the heads that have been fixed but the damage left alone. All the teak interior needs to be lightly sanded and refinished. May even have some soft spots on the deck. So? I based my price on what I knew I had to fix and what I thought might be lurking unseen after 35 years. Now that I'm into it, I really like the boat and hope I live long enough to fix and improve everything I want to.

Assuming your leaving the ply in place, I'm curious if the veneer came cleanly away from the ply? ie: if someone else chose to do this would the remaining ply be a suitable surface for re-veneering? Was the ply under the windows in reasonable condition?

Apophyge said:

Psneeld didn't buy a POS, he bought a boat the PO didn't maintain as well as it should have been. Unless you bought new, we all did that. I bought Lollygag knowing there is rot under one portlight in the V-berth. There is also some delam in the underlayment by the forward head. Leaks in the heads that have been fixed but the damage left alone. All the teak interior needs to be lightly sanded and refinished. May even have some soft spots on the deck. So? I based my price on what I knew I had to fix and what I thought might be lurking unseen after 35 years. Now that I'm into it, I really like the boat and hope I live long enough to fix and improve everything I want to.

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Well usually by definition something left to rot at some point becomes a POS to many....maybe not all people...but if I gave you a tour...you wouldn't be impressed.

I've been working pretty non-stop for 8 months/year for 3 years around an on call assistance towing job....granted I live aboard which requires doing things the hard way and keeping mess under control...but I wouldn't wish this boat on anyone....but I had my reasons.

Capt Kangeroo said:

Assuming your leaving the ply in place, I'm curious if the veneer came cleanly away from the ply? ie: if someone else chose to do this would the remaining ply be a suitable surface for re-veneering? Was the ply under the windows in reasonable condition?

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For the most part the ply is solid...good news for all of us . Many people think their soft decks and walls are rotten...probably not...just delaminated and the wood may be wet but probably not rotten.

Yes I could have relaminated a teak veneer back over it but I hate the look so I went with the pine beadboard...In my mind way more traditional...especially of workboats than dark teak. The veneer on my boat comes away so cleanly it strips off with two fingers and in long sheets up to a foot wide....wider if I'm careful. Some of the bottom layer that was contact cemented down is a problem but not huge if I get a wide putty knife undet it and apply steady pressure. If I had the time slot..I probably could have stripped it all off the inside of my saloon in 2 days max.

Around the windows ply under the veneer is solid except in the corners that stayed wet most of the time....they were easily cut out with an oscillating tool and a small piece of ply epoxied back in with filler. If I wasn't on call with my job and living aboard...I could have stripped the veneer, beadboarded and painted all well within a week of 8hr days. Fortunately my windows are new aluminum frame clamp style. meaning the window goes on the outside of the boat with a lip and a pieced together screwed on frame goes on the inside with a lip that covers any cutting gaps/errors around the complex window shapes.

I hear you. We rebuilt the engine, glassed in the fuel tank and refinished the bilge (since the engine was out) while living aboard in Mexico. What a mess! But the boat is now in the Marquessas so most of the maintenance worked!

Thanks, sorry for the questions but it is a fascinating project. I have a good friend with similar issues on his MT that may follow your lead. Are you just doing the outside walls? I'm wondering what your plans are where the walls come up against the built in furniture and interior walls. Will you also bead board the furniture surfaces or strip & stain to match the beadboard colour? Lastly, presumably the bead board is fastened with screws & therefore does not require a perfect substrate, could you not have just gone over top of the old veneer & avoided the need to strip it off?