Hendo's Randall 35 Cray Boat complete rebuild, Perth, Western Australia

Isn't that a beautifull view? Your prop turning as it should
Congratulations.

Couple of pics from the weekend before the video was made.

Rubber flooring in, hoses fitted and liquids topped up.

Portuguese said:

Os sonhos so sao bons quando se tornam relaidade. E obvio que os teus estao tornando-se uma realidade muito bonita e eficiente.

Abraco

Fernando

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Meus sonhos estão se tornando realidade, principalmente graças ao Felicity

Abraco

Hendo

Picked up my 4" exhaust muffler today. Anyone use one of these before? Are they Any good? Bit confused as to how the water is forced up the riser and out the side of the boat. I got the instruction paperwork but still not sure how the water doesn't just flow back to the Perkins.






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Hendo78 said:

Picked up my 4" exhaust muffler today. Anyone use one of these before? Are they Any good? Bit confused as to how the water is forced up the riser and out the side of the boat. I got the instruction paperwork but still not sure how the water doesn't just flow back to the Perkins.

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I've often wondered about that myself. I think it's something we learned in Grade 11 Physics class that has long been forgotten as 'I'll never need that in real life'.

Found this. I suspect they're pretty simple devices.



Credit: Quiet Lift

I did some reading and video watching and it cleared it right up for me. The water doesn't actually flow out evenly at all. That's where I was getting lost. The water enters the lift along with the gasses. Once enough pressure builds a section of water is lifted and pushed out and so on and so on. The exhaust will give off a bubbly type sound and spurts of water will come out and not an even flow as I had first thought.

All makes sense now.


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I think your rubber matting looks good, but I have a concern that if it gets wet in the bilge for whatever reason, the mats will prevent it from drying out properly, leading to smells and mold? Plus, if you spill any oil or antifreeze it will be harder to clean up.

I also can't see any limber holes?

Just to make your life easier, once you get floating, have you looked at a sump pan like they put under the engines in Grand Banks boats? Just a suggestion.

Xsbank said:

I think your rubber matting looks good, but I have a concern that if it gets wet in the bilge for whatever reason, the mats will prevent it from drying out properly, leading to smells and mold? Plus, if you spill any oil or antifreeze it will be harder to clean up.

I also can't see any limber holes?

Just to make your life easier, once you get floating, have you looked at a sump pan like they put under the engines in Grand Banks boats? Just a suggestion.

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Thanks for your post mate

There are three fully sealed and segregated areas with independent high-flo bilge pumps. Limber holes are at the connection between the keel and the rib allowing any water to flow down to a centrally located bilge pump for that particular segregation. One is under the engine, the other is under the bed in the fwd section and the other is in the hull extension.

The rubber is just like a floor mat. I can roll it up or move it if I need to clean it. Its not fixed. The paint I used is Jotamastic 2 pack paint that will guard against mold and mildew and smells etc.

I see it as the safety factors of a non-slip and the effects of helping to reduce sound and vibration outweigh the likelihood of a spill/leak (that's the plan anyway) :lol:

I will be putting a pan of sorts that sits under the engine to catch any drips should they occur. Is that what you're referring to as a sump pan mate?

Im not familiar with GB sump pans. Will Google after I send this post reply.

Thanks again for your post mate!

Yes, the "pan of sorts" was what I meant. Sounds like you're way ahead of me. The pan not only helps cleaning up spills but if you do have a spill it prevents the bilge pump from dealing with it first!

Keep going, I'm prepared to read the next 1100 posts about Axe!

IGs (well, mine and Andy`s) have ss pans under the engines, you never get oil stuff in the bilge. Coincidentally, we both created a pump to empty them, using a small bilge pump clipped to a battery if/when needed, I even put an inline switch on mine, just pump out into a container, and dispose. Going to put a long "over the side" out hose on it for when I finally flush the port engine FW side. Useful thing.

G'day folks,
Ticked another couple of jobs of the list today. I can't believe how nervous I was drilling out the hole for the through hull. I've spent so long filling and smoothing to then add some more was making we think twice and second guess myself lol. I was so please when I looked at the core. The pic is pretty self explanatory but I'll add that I am very very happy. It's one thing to keep adding layers but you forget the last layer when you're Working on the next one but when you see a cross section of that process and how it all came together, well it's very pleasing.




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Nice work Mate.

An ole' boat builder once told me 'you know you're making real progress when you start drilling holes in the hull you've works so hard on to keep water tight!'

Did you at least coat the hole with epoxy before you put the through-hull in? Ya probably should consider that to keep water from seeping into the ply. Just a thought.

Build on, we're watchin!

She-Kon said:

Nice work Mate.

An ole' boat builder once told me 'you know you're making real progress when you start drilling holes in the hull you've works so hard on to keep water tight!'

Did you at least coat the hole with epoxy before you put the through-hull in? Ya probably should consider that to keep water from seeping into the ply. Just a thought.

Build on, we're watchin!

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Hi mate.
Thanks for the words of support. Yep kinda but I'm going about it a different way. I've not finished playing with this through hull just yet mate. The hole saw I chose to use is 5mm bigger than the through hull. I used sikaflex today on the join between the fitting and the hull surface and assembled it all so When I go back I won't need to move the fitting to make sure the alignment is set.

When I go back, I will remove the ball valve and backing block and pour epoxy in the gap between ply surrounding the through hull. The sika will stop epoxy draining out. I will then epoxy the back block down and fillet the edges and reassemble it all.




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Hendo78 said:

Hi mate.
Thanks for the words of support. Yep kinda but I'm hoping about it a different way. I've not finished playing with this through hull just yet mate. The hole saw I chose to use is 5mm bigger than the through hull. I used sikaflex today on the join between the fitting and the hull surface and assembled it all so When I go back I won't need to move the fitting to make sure the alignment is set.

When I go back, I will remove the ball valve and backing block and pour epoxy in the gap between ply surrounding the through hull. The sika will stop epoxy draining out. I will then epoxy the back block down and fillet the edges and reassemble it all.

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That's a good idea. I never thought of doing it that way! I was considering lining the through-hull openings with a layer of glass & epoxy and use a balloon to hold it in place while it cures. I did that with my bow thruster tube, worked great. Just trim after and you're good to go!

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff166/KnottyBuoyz/KBIII/GOPR0026-1.jpg

Anyhow, great progress! Keep the pics & stories coming!

Cheers mate. You too! I'll keep my balloons for chasing some big fish when AXE is finished lol


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Hi All ... Its Polling time again.

What's your ideas on what height I should run the main cabin roof too?

I was thinking 2400mm

What's your saloon ceilings set at??

thanks in advance for your input folks

cheers

Hendo

My salon is only 6' 2" and pilot house 6'8". I think 6' 2" is cutting it a bit close for me at 6' tall but it is proportional to the length when seen from outside. You don't want a "box" that appears to sit on deck. I would guess it is a compromise between form and function. You can probably go taller and still look good if you don't have a fly bridge.

Greetings,
Mr. H. Make it 1m high for that long, low, sleek look and wear one of these...

How about a round 200 cms= 2metres = 6 ft 6 in. Matt. Then everyone's catered for, including tall guys with hats, and would still look good, as you don't plan on a flybridge if I remember correctly..?

My 34 Californian inside ceiling height is 188 cm/6 ft 2 in. Doorway headers reduce that to 170 cm/5 ft 7 in in the doorway. I wish my door headers were higher, but since I'm 1780 cm/5 ft 10 in, I'm OK with the salon height.

Pilothouse is 6'6" (198 cm). You might consider a hand hold down the centerline, I wish mine had one.
Mike

200 cm sounds all fine and dandy in an ideal world but the world is not always ideal either. All of us know boats are compromises so before I'd start slinging ply at it I'd mock it up in cardboard first Matt.

See how it functions yes, but then hop out and go lean on the car fender and have a beverage or two. Look at the lines of the hull and if your cabin proportions look right. Somebody else said ya don't want a box on a boat and it's true. I've seen some beautiful sheer lines on some downright ugly boats.

I'm always willing to sacrifice some function for the sake of style. Good luck and know you'll choose well.

Matt me bud... ya gots tree choices... Ceiling height is too short, too tall, or just right!

In addition to good looken lines for your boat, I recommend you go to a boat dealer or boat yard and see if you can walk/stand around inside some boats... ta get the "feel o' da deal" - so to say!

I caution you about door opening heights and widths. If you have a door or two you will often be passing through make it big enough so that passage does not turn into an often PIA.

I can hardly to see your next progress - Your Chum, Art

Thanks all. Some really sound advice and ideas to take on board.

Thanks again!


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Hi again, I need some more help. This time it's The diesel return line. is there any reason this can't come in from the side of the tank instead of the top? I only have one spot on top and that will be getting used for the vent. I was contemplating running it on one of the spare outlets on the side of the tank and then I got to thinking about syphoning and how one point needs to be higher, kinda like the wet exhaust. The engine point of the return line is higher than the point where it will run in to the tank so I think it will be fine but just thought I'd ask the question incase there is some other issue sim not aware of by running it through the side.

Cheers folks





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I suggest 6' 6" as a minimum and 6' 8" would be better. I have a son and 2 grandsons that are 6'5" tall. Moonstruck's saloon ceiling is 6'8" and helm deck ceiling is 6'6". Door clearance should be looked at as well.

Greetings,
Mr. H. Is there any reason you can't or shouldn't "T" the return into the vent line right at the tank? Alternately, I see no reason why you can't run the return line to the tank at the top of one of the sides.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. H. Is there any reason you can't or shouldn't "T" the return into the vent line right at the tank? Alternately, I see no reason why you can't run the return line to the tank at the top of one of the sides.

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Hi RT,
Yeah I thought about T'ing it in to the fuel feed line but I might cause an air lock situation. So I thought I could use one of the middle outlets but thinking that May cause an issue with the weight of the fuel ( 400L ) pushing back up the line into the top of the injectors. The return is pressurised but not much, so I've read anyway so not enough to counteract the weight of half a tank IMO

T'ing into the vent line will cause the pressurised return diesel to come out the vent.

So then I thought I could run a loop / gooseneck in the line coming from the middle fitting but once the return diesel got to the point where it met the diesel from the tank, it would/could flow back to the injectors????

Might have to get creative and tap a fitting into the top like you suggested.


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If you can get into the tank, put an elbow and pipe to an inch from the top of the tank on the inside for the return. I would not use the side connection otherwise. I wonder what it was used for originally?