Alternative to Varnish

I have started using Tung Oil on my teak rails and caps and this makes for a great low maintenance finish. It gives a low sheen and completely seals the wood. You have to get 100% tung oil as there are many that say tung oil but are not the real thing. It is easy to apply with just a rag and requires a light fine sanding between coats. It has worked so well that I am going to do my cabin doors with the same finish. I might seal the doors with polyurethane after I put 5 to six coats of tung oil.

I used raw linseed oil, and mostly turpentine w some wood preservative. Started off w kerosene & raw linseed oil for best penetration.

Received some flack on TF one in particular commenting that linseed oil "is fungus food". Well all went well while we lived in Alaska and it's the only finish that would hold up in the wet weather there. I re-coated it about once a month. Was always a little bit sticky but wouldn't stick to one's pants but it felt like it when sitting on the cap rail.

We moved south, hauled the boat and stopped re-coating it. Soon it was black. Used vinegar, hydrogen peroxide and baking soda to take off the black. It's coming back to the rich teak brown now.

Never even thought of using 100% oil. Scuttlebutt in Alaska was that tung oil turned black. I think in time any natural oil will turn black.

C & D wrote; "polyurethane after I put 5 to six coats of tung oil".
Polly may not (probably IMO) adhere to an oily surface. I'd suggest a good oil based varnish over tung oil. I put McCloskie's spar varnish over a heavily linseed oiled piece of plywood and the varnish adhered well. See pic. The "finish" was even subjected to much chain abrasion and hardly suffered at all. The cap rails were about ready for more oil in this photo.

Cathy and David,

Please post pics when you have the time and let us know how it holds up for you. I have only done the CPES and varnish so far on our bright work but am interested in long term results of any product. Thanks for posting.

Be careful, I would be shocked if poly held to heavily oiled would for any length of time.

Let us know how long before the oiled wood starts turning black.

The key is to use 100% tung oil and let it completely dry, which in our area takes about 1 day. If you Google poly over tung various wood finishing sites indicated this is an acceptable practice if the tung is allowed to fully dry. What surprised me about the tung is how hard a finish it leaves once dry. I am just thinking that a coat of water based poly over the tung will provide additional protection. Tung I believe will not turn black like BLO. Once again the key is 100% pure tung oil. It is not easy to find in local stores and I have only found it online.

Tung oil completely dry in a day? Amazing. I'm going to try it .. On a 2X4 of course. I should'nt have a problem finding tung oil here.

Yes I also would not be inclined to put anything but oil based stuff on oiled wood but ??

C&D,
How many Coates of tung have you put on and how much time between coats? Why use a rag? Why not a brush? Brush flows on too much? Why sand between coats?

Cathy and David said:

The key is to use 100% tung oil and let it completely dry, which in our area takes about 1 day. If you Google poly over tung various wood finishing sites indicated this is an acceptable practice if the tung is allowed to fully dry. What surprised me about the tung is how hard a finish it leaves once dry. I am just thinking that a coat of water based poly over the tung will provide additional protection. .

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I was thinking of two part polys. You might be right that one part polys will stick.

Manyboats,
I have put 3 coats on and use a rag because of the viscosity of the tung oil, which I can only compare to molasses. I did not cut it with anything and used less than a pint for the whole boat. I put it on during the heat of the day and it dried to a hard finish in one day. I have tried other oils and have had no luck with any other oil. In fact I was ready to give up until I tried tung. There is no leaching of the oil and the finish when dried is a hard finish that is completely water proof. It has a nice sheen and has maintained it's color. It was recommended to lightly sand with 320 to let the oil adhere to the next coat. From what I have studied finishing with a water based poly will provide additional protection and seal the tung. The tung cures not by evaporation but by emulsifying. It truly gives a varnish like finish. Just be sure to get 100% tung oil there are a lot of imitations that say tung oil and have other products in the mixture. It is expensive but requires so little to apply. I just purchased 1 gallon that will probably last the rest of my life. I hope I answered your questions.

Greetings,
C&D. "... but by emulsifying." Emulsifying with what?

Cure is a better word. To me this is the best low maintenance alternative to varnishing and yields a good low maintenance finish. Time will tell.

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths

Cathy and David said:

Cure is a better word. To me this is the best low maintenance alternative to varnishing and yields a good low maintenance finish. Time will tell.

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths

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Good article!

Cathy and David said:

Time will tell.

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Agreed.

PS: All the tung oil junks I saw in Hong Kong were black.

Could you please post where you got your "pure" tung oil?

It's the way I am leaning too...

Just Google tung oil. There are various suppliers but I purchased through Real Milk Paint Company. They had the best price on a gallon.

Cathy and David said:

Just Google tung oil. There are various suppliers but I purchased through Real Milk Paint Company. They had the best price on a gallon.

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Thanks...just was on Amazon and saw the Real Milk brand...

Thanks again!!!

Not a problem I think you will really be pleased with the result. Our Albins have a ton of teak!

Did you follow the steps laid out in the article? 70% thinning the first costs, waiting a week between coats, etc?

Or just wipe it on full strength with a day between coats?

The ultimate answer to varnish and oil is plastic wood unfortunately my builder refused to use it.

eyschulman said:

The ultimate answer to varnish and oil is plastic wood unfortunately my builder refused to use it.

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Good on him.

Capt Bill....I applied uncut and full strength and allowed to fully dry which took a day. I have applied 3 coats and this took a less than 1 pint for the rails and caps.

Interesting, thanks.

Question and I'm not trying to be funny here, but you seem to like the Tong oil and you're thinking about covering it up (the doors) with a polyurethane varnish? What happens when you chip, ding or wear thru the poly? Why not just use the Tong oil? That looks like it would be much easier to do maintenance coats. Just asking.

Larry M said:

Question and I'm not trying to be funny here, but you seem to like the Tong oil and you're thinking about covering it up (the doors) with a polyurethane varnish? What happens when you chip, ding or wear thru the poly? Why not just use the Tong oil? That looks like it would be much easier to do maintenance coats. Just asking.

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That's what I'm thinking...the main reason for me is I'm hard on a boat's finish.

I like the idea that I can wipe on another coat whenever, wherever I want...a little or a lot at a time and all I have to do is grab a bottle and rag.

No..."dang gotta strip a whole section and spend days making that section look as Yottie as the others"....

My idea of maintenance is something between nice pleasure and workboat...except for drivetrain/steering as getting south every year is paramount.

Larry M said:

Question and I'm not trying to be funny here, but you seem to like the Tong oil and you're thinking about covering it up (the doors) with a polyurethane varnish? What happens when you chip, ding or wear thru the poly? Why not just use the Tong oil? That looks like it would be much easier to do maintenance coats. Just asking.

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Larry I suspect he's not fully happy w the low "gloss" of the "Tong". I was ok w that re my Linseed oil in Alaska but down here we will probably go back to McCloskies spar varnish. The Gloss w Tong oil in it. I'd have Tong in every coat then unlike C & D who will run out of Tong when they switch to polly. It's basically Chris's call as she does most of the finish work and she wants varnish. Come to think of it I did the Linseed oil. But she's 3/4 of the way through w changing the black teak back to original light brown wood. I say sure lets do it.
We usually work on the boat together though and lately the ER stuff has been even less fun.
But if it were just me I'd prolly just do Tong if it worked for me like it seems to for C & D. Many of us over the years have tried some form of oil finish and we should make C & D heroes if the've got a really workable oil finish. I'm up to say'in cheers for C & D. But I'll keep some raw eggs handy .. Just kidd'in.

Ya'll are making me reconsider the poly over coat as the whole reason for this exercise is for a low maintenance attractive finish. The tung oil does provide a hard finish with a low sheen but in the sun it almost sparkles. From what I studied that is the fat in the oil that cures into crystals. I am with Psneeld in that I like the idea of just being able to wipe some more on when the time calls for it.
I don't know if this is a long term solution but it is definitely better than any other oil I have tried. It is not sticky when cured and is completely water proof. Time will tell how long it lasts between having to recoat.

I will want to know what happens if you overcoat AND if you don't.

Much rather you didn't though.

Cathy and David said:

Ya'll are making me reconsider the poly over coat as the whole reason for this exercise is for a low maintenance attractive finish. The tung oil does provide a hard finish with a low sheen but in the sun it almost sparkles. From what I studied that is the fat in the oil that cures into crystals. I am with Psneeld in that I like the idea of just being able to wipe some more on when the time calls for it.
I don't know if this is a long term solution but it is definitely better than any other oil I have tried. It is not sticky when cured and is completely water proof. Time will tell how long it lasts between having to recoat.

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Keep on wiping and keep on cruising is my theory....working on boats never pays enough and falls way short of drinking beer or rum....

...which to me suggests one hand for the glass and one hand for the oily rag...and suits me just fine...

Al,

Just leave the brush on the float while you go have lunch at The Point.

1 Coat of water based poly only lasted about 6 months in a combo of NJ to FL weather..thus my looking to Tung oil..stripping anything isn't worth my time.