Systems Run indicator panel

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N4712

N4712

Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2013
Messages
3,607
Location
U.S.A
Vessel Name
Oliver
Vessel Make
Nordhavn 47 Hull# 12
Thanks to Flywright I have now designed a systems run panel. Like to get opinions. I was thinking of having one on the FB and one in the PH. And if i wanted I could easily add more. The price for a 6"x2.5"x 3.00MM (I think can't remember) power coated aluminum was ~$75. ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1402602275.486735.jpg
 
Very cool. I take it low oil pressure, high coolant temp, and exhaust temp, perhaps raw water flow are on another, alarm driven panel? Kind of surprised to see high water on here, along with bilge pump (singular?).. or perhaps you are looking for redundancy? Certainly nothing wrong with that. I might add AC water pump if possible.
 
caltexflanc said:
Very cool. I take it low oil pressure, high coolant temp, and exhaust temp, perhaps raw water flow are on another, alarm driven panel? Kind of surprised to see high water on here, along with bilge pump (singular?).. or perhaps you are looking for redundancy? Certainly nothing wrong with that. I might add AC water pump if possible.
Click to expand...

Each of our engine gauge clusters have an alarm for when the engine starts running hot or the oil pressure drops it sets off a buzzer.
The high water is actually going be hooked to the high water pump, couldn't fit all the text.
 
I think I would group them by green normal indicator (i.e. Watermaker), amber advisory (i.e. Bilge Pumps) and red alert/alarm (i.e. High Water).

If you decide to have the spare holes drilled now, you can add SS wilkie buttons to cover them until needed.

file.php
 
I'm curious how you are doing the detection part. Voltage sense at the load? Current sense?
 
twistedtree said:
I'm curious how you are doing the detection part. Voltage sense at the load? Current sense?
Click to expand...


Some of these items already have indicators on the panel and the others I was just gonna run a lead of the the load side of the breaker except for the water maker I was gonna run a lead into the HP pump. I can't think of any ways of wiring the water pump to make the indicator work when it's running. Not trying to do anything fancy just and overview of important stuff. Also it's me just idle thinking.
 
N4712 said:
Some of these items already have indicators on the panel and the others I was just gonna run a lead of the the load side of the breaker except for the water maker I was gonna run a lead into the HP pump. I can't think of any ways of wiring the water pump to make the indicator work when it's running. Not trying to do anything fancy just and overview of important stuff. Also it's me just idle thinking.
Click to expand...

Negative side of pump to light to ground...I think should work.
 
Our water pump is 110v sealed construction not sure how I would go about to rig it so when the pump starts up the light goes one unless they make inline flow switches.
 
N4712 said:
Some of these items already have indicators on the panel and the others I was just gonna run a lead of the the load side of the breaker except for the water maker I was gonna run a lead into the HP pump. I can't think of any ways of wiring the water pump to make the indicator work when it's running. Not trying to do anything fancy just and overview of important stuff. Also it's me just idle thinking.
Click to expand...

That makes sense, and sounds like a fun project. To sense the water pump you would presumably have to get inside the control unit to the motor side of whatever switch they use. It's a headhunter, right? The 60 comes with a current sensing run indicator on the water pump circuit which I thought was pretty cool.

With all these sense wires, you will be bringing a variety of different voltages back to the indicator panel. What then? Will the indicators be LEDs? You'll need to step down the voltage somehow so they all glow more or less the same intensity.

Oh, and all your sense wires should have a fuse within close proximity to the sense point.

I'm doing something similar, but using the Maretron Run Indicator module to put all the info on the N2K bus, and N2KView for display. It has some added benefits like persistent cycle counters and run-time counters. I wouldn't put in N2K just for this, but if you have it already it is a pretty reasonable cost add-on.
 
Yeah on the top of the pump there's a couple buttons and two indicators. I don't really have the confidence to tear into a $800 pump.:D
 
twistedtree said:
That makes sense, and sounds like a fun project. To sense the water pump you would presumably have to get inside the control unit to the motor side of whatever switch they use. It's a headhunter, right? The 60 comes with a current sensing run indicator on the water pump circuit which I thought was pretty cool.

With all these sense wires, you will be bringing a variety of different voltages back to the indicator panel. What then? Will the indicators be LEDs? You'll need to step down the voltage somehow so they all glow more or less the same intensity.

Oh, and all your sense wires should have a fuse within close proximity to the sense point.

I'm doing something similar, but using the Maretron Run Indicator module to put all the info on the N2K bus, and N2KView for display. It has some added benefits like persistent cycle counters and run-time counters. I wouldn't put in N2K just for this, but if you have it already it is a pretty reasonable cost add-on.
Click to expand...
Pacer makes non leds in all voltages. I was going of with them. Yeah optimally I would do N2K but it's not worth it for us. Although our next nordy will have a full N2K monitoring system very alike with the Hamilton's. If you don't know he has a sensor on everything, Like I wouldn't be surprised if he had a sensor in the toilet to tell the bowl water temp, which would be pretty cool. :D

http://www.pacergroup.net/Categories7.aspx?Id=3L_Series_Indicator_Lights
 
twistedtree said:
Nice. That makes it easy.
Click to expand...


Yep all the same size, so no fiddling with multiple brands. All this was just me idle thinking. Pacer Also makes 18/12 wire so I only have to pull one cable to the FB. what I like about this simple and relatively cheap idea is that it's scaleable I can out one in the ER, Master state room, or where ever I like for about 110 bucks a station.
 
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