Anyone try a split HVAC 110VAC units?

I'm thinking of installing a split heat pump/ AC unit. a 1 ton or 12,000 BTU unit . It draws less than 9.8 amps while running and I like the ability to have the main unit on the boats aft cabin roof and have the blower/ exchanger in the salon pilot house. There are also 7,000 BTU split units that are for cooling only and they draw little in the way of AC 110VAC current. I was thinking of one for the aft cabin in my Gulfstar for use at night, pro's con's anyone?
Thanks,
Bill

Non marine unit? They do work, but if you get into salt spray the life is really limited. Kind of like a beach house, get 5-10 years and replace. Also air handler and condenser units are really pretty big.

I am not sure what you are talking about. Mounting the condenser unit on the cabin top sounds like an air cooled Japanese/Korean residential system. These have a finite life in a marine environment- maybe 5 years.

If you are talking about a raw water cooled marine unit, I had a split system on a previous sailboat. It is easier to run Freon tubing than it is to run air ducts, so a split system does have that advantage.

The downside is all of the copper tubing run throughout the boat. Eventually it leaked.

But you wouldn't put the condensing unit on the cabin top. In or near the bilge, yes.

David

The ones I looked at are 23" X 19 X 9. I have had a Coleman heat pump on the roof of my Mainship 40SB since 2008 and so far no problems. I think I'll try it and give the short term results it might take a few years to report the long term results though. I like the larger units because they can generate heat and AC.
Bill

I'm talking non marine split systems or units. I have had one at a commercial radio tower at the Jersey shore for the last 8 years and no problems so far. Just how long do marine units last? They also have a finite life term, albeit longer than the split units I'm thinking about trying. My Gulfstar currently has (2) 5000BTU 110VAC window AC units in the rear windows they are still blowing cold but I want the windows clear for cruising.
Bill

Depends on how much ocean water cruising you plan on. Being near salt water and getting salt spray or green water into the works are very very different things.

Billy ,not smart enough to give you the link but look on yacht world at a34 marine trader pilot house and see if this is what your after

They are great

I have a 54' trawler and put a mitsubishi split unit in, I have 4 supply units, 1 in each room. If your compressor is higher than each unit they make a condenser pump that fits in condenser tray and pumps condensation overboard.I made a cover of breathable material that protects unit when not in user. I also weatherized the unit and after 2 years have not seen any real signs of corrosion. I know not to brag on things when it pertains to your vessel, cause it will bite you in the rear every time but that's all I'm saying.

Billy , few things I didn't mention

They use little elec. , you can't even hear them at all even when you put your ear next to compressor, they heat and cold, they dehumidify , each unit can be set at different temps. And each unit can be set to do different functions like ac in 1 room and dehumidifying another. Just put compressor up high and you will be good to go.I just got back from Key West for 3 months and 3 months in Exumas in 8 foot seas daily , no worries. I keep my boat 2 Blocks from Ocean in Fla.No signs of corrosion, after 2 years.

>These have a finite life in a marine environment- maybe 5 years.<

I have seen these units all over Euroland in ports.

A winter in Norway or Sweden will probably be as hard on the unit as sitting behind a PH.

It is only time till one US mfg, jumps on the bandwagon (probably Dometic) and all the antiques like Cruisairs will be ,well, antiques.

The demand will probably come first from folks that need heat as well as air cond.

The new Mini Splits are a bit better at cold air , but 400% to 500% better at heat than a toaster wire.

Std marine usually dies in cold water , these work north of the arctic circle1

For most a spray of preservative oil once a year should take care of the fear of salt in the air.

I assume you guys are talking about one of these;

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/documents/specsheets/902tas18mvhn.pdf

if so, where the heck do you put the rather large compressor unit on the bridge of a small trawler with out the bridge ending up looking like an office building roof?

Similar, Capt. Bill the units I am looking at are smaller.
I have seen these on an Eagle and a Marine Trader they really don't look that bad.
The + is they can generate heat where a normal marine unit gives up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ductless-Mi...651049?pt=Air_Conditioner&hash=item19e49c9b69
Bill

I see the advantages. I'm just not sure about the look.

But perhaps it could be hidden by some kind of cover or box or something.

I'll take function over looks any day!
Bill

Billylll said:

Similar, Capt. Bill the units I am looking at are smaller.
I have seen these on an Eagle and a Marine Trader they really don't look that bad.
The + is they can generate heat where a normal marine unit gives up.
Ductless Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump Air Con 12 000 BTU AC Unit | eBay
Bill

Click to expand...

Look at the Mitsubishi and Panasonic units.. typically have a much higher SEER rating ( 18-24..use even less energy )
The key is a place to mount both the air handler and the outdoor unit.
I know there is a N46 that uses one of these with multiple air handlers it is based in Thailand and .. it is for sale, a search should turn it up

HOLLYWOOD

I agree the higher the SEER number the unit is more efficient.
Bill

I still don't see the advantage: Using water as a heat sink usually has more favorable temperatures (cooler than the air in summer, warmer than the air in winter) which should make it easier for the water based unit to do its job. Whether that actually is the case, not sure. I've had my water based unit freeze up and that is no fun. But that might be in the execution, not a flaw in the water based concept.

You'll find that's not the case with these units. They heat way below freezing where a marine water based system stops at 40-42 degrees.
Bill

Ski in NC said:

I've had my water based unit freeze up and that is no fun. But that might be in the execution, not a flaw in the water based concept.

Click to expand...

Do you mean the air handlers fins and coils iced up? If so, that is an air flow issue in most cases.

Billylll said:

I'll take function over looks any day!
Bill

Click to expand...

Well, there's that.

Capt.Bill11 said:

Do you mean the air handlers fins and coils iced up? If so, that is an air flow issue in most cases.

Click to expand...

No, it was the water to freon heat exchanger. Happened when sea temp was around 38F and air temp about 25F. Challenging for any heat pump. I don't think the air based unit would do much better. Either would need some sort of defrost cycle and I know my water based unit has no such thing.

Ski in NC said:

I still don't see the advantage: Using water as a heat sink usually has more favorable temperatures (cooler than the air in summer, warmer than the air in winter) which should make it easier for the water based unit to do its job. Whether that actually is the case, not sure. I've had my water based unit freeze up and that is no fun. But that might be in the execution, not a flaw in the water based concept.

Click to expand...

They do take up deck space, and the handler inside needs wall space...

But they don't crud up from marine life and happens in nutrient rich areas ie, the Chesapeake, some ares of the Caribbean, South America, Most of the East coast.
My bud with the N57 at times has had to clean this strainers and the piping every two weeks or marine growth would choke the water flow and shut down the system.. not too bad to do the strainers.. but the hoses suck!.
Also the marine water exchanged units quit heat output at 40deg. or a bit higher water temps.. air mini units still produce into the high 20 degree air temps.

But they are fughly!

If you can hide the condenser it is a great alternative. See attached pic for N46 with two units..

HOLLYWOOD

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!
Bill

The most common is the Mitsubishi,

Mitsubishi Minisplit AC - mitsubishipro.com‎

Adwww.mitsubishipro.com/‎
Redifining the Industry w/ our VRF Zoning and Split Ductless Systems!

Many of the brands I see at the distributors are Chinese copies.

I would stick with Panasonic or Mitsubishi .

Somehow the freon setup is different and these folks can make heat from -20F air. and not freeze solid!

FF said:

The most common is the Mitsubishi,

Mitsubishi Minisplit AC - mitsubishipro.com‎

Adwww.mitsubishipro.com/‎
Redifining the Industry w/ our VRF Zoning and Split Ductless Systems!

Many of the brands I see at the distributors are Chinese copies.

I would stick with Panasonic or Mitsubishi .

Somehow the freon setup is different and these folks can make heat from -20F air. and not freeze solid!

Click to expand...

The unit I have been using at a radio tower building is a Mistubishi. It works quite well when the temperatures in our area reach 10-15 degree outside. That's one of the reasons I am considering using one on my Gulfstar.
As mentioned earlier they might be fugly, I'll agree but if they work half as well as advertised I think it's worth trying one or two on my boat.
Bill

If its a heat-pump type unit it will heat when the outside air is 40and above. It may have a defrost control so if the outside coil freezes it will defrost (go from heat to cooling ) then back to heat.This will put cool air into the space .Heat pumps are good for 40 and above and will not be efficient below that temp.Electric heat will work better at40 and below. You may want to have a electric heat as the auxiliary.

Deckape said:

If its a heat-pump type unit it will heat when the outside air is 40and above. It may have a defrost control so if the outside coil freezes it will defrost (go from heat to cooling ) then back to heat.This will put cool air into the space .Heat pumps are good for 40 and above and will not be efficient below that temp.Electric heat will work better at40 and below. You may want to have a electric heat as the auxiliary.

Click to expand...

The new mini splits can heat down into the 20deg. Air temps.. old heat pumps were not anywhere as efficent.
Hollywood

For us cruisers and not park at the dock guys, how do you run one at night, when at anchor, genset down and temperture outside is below 40F? Diesel heat is my answer. Ditto while cruising and genset down.

I've used these split units a lot in offices, especially in Spain.

>Diesel heat is my answer.<

You bet , Dickinson , no electric required , gravity fuel feed and 200G will go all winter !!

I have a roof top air/ heat . Are the roof top units that are just for air smaller ? I don't really need the heat and it doesn't heat very well any way . Mine is old and loud . Who makes the quietest roof top?