I have taken the liberty of copying to here a post to the T&T forum about the rope-to-chain splice that is the subject of this thread. The poster is a fellow by the name of Rudy who with his wife lives and cruises in the southeast US on a boat they built themselves. He seems quite knowledgeable on topics like this. Rudy is answering a question about the viability of the "thread the strands trhough the links" splice that was asked about on this forum.
Rudy's reply----
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This splice is a totally acceptable rope-to-chain splice. However, a few
comments about it: This splice will bring up tremendous amounts of muck, if
anchored in muck. But more importantly, this splice is generally weaker than
the other two types of rope-to-chain splices because it is difficult to keep
all the yarns at the same tension, or keep each chain link at the same
tension, and usually both; plus it is totally dependent on the whippings or
lashings to maintain its integrity.
What this means is that this splice needs more periodic and careful watching
than does the other two types of splices. This could take on some importance
if anchored for a prolonged storm, where the gear may not be able to be
recovered for inspection. Umm... at the very least, I see some diminishing of
peace-of-mind here, especially with an elderly splice!
In addition, the individual yarns are more susceptible to chafe than is a
larger strand. This splice can be wrapped to give it some protection from
chafe, but now you are engaged in additional work that the other splices do
not need; plus, then the splice is hidden from view and thus inspection is
more difficult.
The other two rope-to-chain splices, the back splice and the long splice, do
not have these weaknesses. As far as their perceived weakness of making a turn
of 180 degrees and returning back down the standing part, it is of no
consequence, if the rope is sized properly.
If sized properly (at least 2x the chain's size), the rope has essentially the
strength as the chain, or more. Ex: 3/8 PC chain= 2650 WLL or 10,600 BS. 3/4
inch, 3-strand nylon rope= 13,000 lb BS. (For the rope, you choose the WLL
that you desire; our personal choice is not to exceed 15% of the rope's BS.)
With a well put in splice, in either the back splice or the long splice will
retain approximately 90% of the rope's strength. In addition, if put in
properly, the strands are unlaid, allowing them to not only lay flatter, but
also allows the individual yarns to go around this small radius without fiber
damage.
In fact, let's do the math- the smallest radius that a yarn/strand/rope should
go around, on a fixed point terminus, is 3x the fiber's diameter. So take a
yarn of less than 1/8 inch in diameter and wrap it around a 3/8 inch chain
link and the fibers undergo no damage in use. As additional strands are
brought through the chain's link, this radius increases, giving even more
protection from fiber damage occuring due to too small of a radius.
But in case you missed it, I'll repeat it: it is of considerable importance to
unlay the rope so that the individual strands, or even yarns, can lay as flat
as possible against the radius below them.
The cons: the back splice, if done as most books suggest, even the splices put
in at the factory, often hang up in the wildcat. So when I put in a
rope-to-chain splice I'll do one of two things. One, use the long splice
instead, keeping the splice around the chain's link loose; or, follow the
directions that New England Ropes promotes for a rope-to-chain back splice-
keep the splice loose around the chain's link and use less tucks. I find that
they both work well.
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