Go north young man! (Heading to Alaska)

I'm taking my first trip to Alaska the first week in July. Everett to Ketchikan and then spending a week in and about Craig for some fishing. I have read a lot online, have most the recommend books. But can't seem to find a recommended route.

Now for the bad news.

I have a schedule and am taking wife, family, and kids on this trip (at least to Ketchikan.). I want to make the trip in 9 days to Ketchikan.

I realize there will be long days ahead but want the family to see some of the major places and remember it fondly.


My ask is this, can any share their routes, travel time, stops, and such with me. This is the one thing I can't seem to find. I'm looking for evening spots with wild life, a few providing spots, neat waterfalls and scenery.

I use Nobletec for my software, so if you can even export your routes, that would be cool, but any and all advice is welcome .



Details: travel people: 3 women, 4 men, 5 kids (ages: 4,5,8,10,13).

68' vessel, would like to travel at 10-12 knots (capable of 18).





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We're doing it soon but as we're not stopping between Bellingham and Ketchikan can't help you much with anything in between. We expect to average 13-15 knots and take 40-46 hours. We're first timers on this route so hopefully someone who has taken it many times will pop up with info.

Are you nervous about driving during the dark? Are you going outside of Vancouver Island or inside through the channels just asking because of the rapids?


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BandB said:

We're doing it soon but as we're not stopping between Bellingham and Ketchikan can't help you much with anything in between. We expect to average 13-15 knots and take 40-46 hours. We're first timers on this route so hopefully someone who has taken it many times will pop up with info.

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You clearly do not want to stop in Canada. No other reason to go direct from Bellingham to Ketchikan. No need to clear customs that way.

ksanders said:

You clearly do not want to stop in Canada. No other reason to go direct from Bellingham to Ketchikan. No need to clear customs that way.

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You guessed it. Going to do Alaska. Return to Port Angeles. Then go to Canada. Just felt it was easier this way plus did it based on guests at various times of our trip. So easy to just cross from Port Angeles to Victoria and then enjoy Canada. Return from Vancouver to Port Angeles. The other reality is that even in two months you can't see all you'd like to.

As to route, we're going up on the inside, returning on the outside. Prefer daylight but feel like we're well equipped both from the captain side and the equipment side for it. We'll go slower at night. Plus dark is rather on the short side. Sunrise today in Ketchikan was 4:09 AM and sunset was 9:22 PM. Taking a half hour before and half hour after for light, that only leaves you with 6 1/2 hours or so of darkness. We will not take chances. We'd change the plans in an instant if circumstances warranted. Fog is a far greater concern than dark to us.

Yes, odd route. Not what we'd necessarily recommend for others.

There's always a gotcha, and you're going to potentially face one.

Even though the night time is short, and even though it doesn't get as dark as the lower 48 during that short dark time it still makes night navigation full of risk.

The logs through Canada can be horrendous. You cannot see them on Radar. You cannot see them on forward looking sonar. The logs live in that magic few feet just at the surface.

The big commercial ships just push through them. The logs must not get pushed under the boat into the props.

You're going to be in a pretty large boat I beleive. How will it do when you smack a log you cannot see? Your boat might be large enough to deflect the logs. I'm afraid mine is not.

BandB said:

You guessed it. Going to do Alaska. Return to Port Angeles. Then go to Canada. Just felt it was easier this way plus did it based on guests at various times of our trip. So easy to just cross from Port Angeles to Victoria and then enjoy Canada. Return from Vancouver to Port Angeles. The other reality is that even in two months you can't see all you'd like to.

As to route, we're going up on the inside, returning on the outside. Prefer daylight but feel like we're well equipped both from the captain side and the equipment side for it. We'll go slower at night. Plus dark is rather on the short side. Sunrise today in Ketchikan was 4:09 AM and sunset was 9:22 PM. Taking a half hour before and half hour after for light, that only leaves you with 6 1/2 hours or so of darkness. We will not take chances. We'd change the plans in an instant if circumstances warranted. Fog is a far greater concern than dark to us.

Yes, odd route. Not what we'd necessarily recommend for others.

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Logs had better be at the top of your list of concerns as well as they'll probably be your biggest danger at night. They'll ruin your trip in an instant. Take it seriously and be afraid, very afraid, and you should be alright.

Kasanders, I second that. I usually need to make course changes every few minutes on this trip. I guess you just run over those 40 foot logs when you can't see them in the dark. I wouldn't even ride with someone planning on running after dark in BC.

ksanders said:

There's always a gotcha, and you're going to potentially face one.

Even though the night time is short, and even though it doesn't get as dark as the lower 48 during that short dark time it still makes night navigation full of risk.

The logs through Canada can be horrendous. You cannot see them on Radar. You cannot see them on forward looking sonar. The logs live in that magic few feet just at the surface.

The big commercial ships just push through them. The logs must not get pushed under the boat into the props.

You're going to be in a pretty large boat I beleive. How will it do when you smack a log you cannot see? Your boat might be large enough to deflect the logs. I'm afraid mine is not.

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Not thrilled with the logs day or night. We will go much slower during dark hours, see what we can with radar, sonar, night vision and a very much oversized search light. Also, listening and communicating with some of the commercial boats in regards to areas they do encounter them. And if we get an indication conditions warrant, we'll find a nice resting spot. If it means idling in place for 7 hours we'll do it. Proceeding with caution but of course no guarantees nothing will be lurking beneath the surface ready to attack us.

Russell Clifton said:

Kasanders, I second that. I usually need to make course changes every few minutes on this trip. I guess you just run over those 40 foot logs when you can't see them in the dark. I wouldn't even ride with someone planning on running after dark in BC.

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Agreed. No way I'm out there at night, unless it's an emergency. Even during daylight, if there's a decent chop you can't even see some of them until you're right on top of them.

We do have an alternate plan as well. Still gets us to Ketchikan the same day. No plans set in stone until the time arrives.

Ok, ok, night travel will be difficult for a lot of us, logs are definitely a danger BandB seems to have a mission and a plan, . now back to my question...surely there are a lot of folks on here that have done this trip. Looking for advice, routes, tips, don't miss locations.


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nautibeaver said:

Ok, ok, night travel will be difficult for a lot of us, logs are definitely a danger BandB seems to have a mission and a plan, . now back to my question...surely there are a lot of folks on here that have done this trip. Looking for advice, routes, tips, don't miss locations.


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Yes, I'd like to hear too. What are the can't miss areas of coastal British Columbia?

And while you're at it, entry and re-entry issues with food?

BandB said:

... If it means idling in place for 7 hours we'll do it. Proceeding with caution but of course no guarantees nothing will be lurking beneath the surface ready to attack us.

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Gee, at idle speed I'm going just half as fast as full speed! Wouldn't look forward to hitting a log even at 3.5 knots, even with a steel hull. Is night-time drifting a good option?

The AK ferries take the best route for speed. Take it but stop at night. Get "Exploring Southeast Alaska .. Dixon Entrance to Skagway". That's the best book for identifying anchorages. With a vessel as large as 68' you'll need to identify tidal currents and anchorages suitable for such a large boat. Even well thought out a bit of bad weather will ruin your timing for all the following legs of the trip. Even if your favorite chosen anchorages seem perfect there may be too many boats (commercial and pleasure) to anchor safely. It would be an asset to be fully capable to anchor fore and aft. You can easily plan your passage through Seymour Narrows. You must catch the tide right there. Be prepared to alter your plans anytime slightly or extensively.

If the seas are relatively calm you could run at night at slow bell and save time. If your hull is steel just go straight through.

My wife and I lived in Thorne Bay on POW island. Moved to W WA 2 years ago. PM me for local knowledge.

In the archives I have a trip story basically taken from our log book. With a much smaller boat and a 6 knot speed it took us 22 days. The thread was called "A long way home". We lived in Thorne Bay at the time. You may get some scope about the places along the way in the story.

I couldn't find it on TF but it's still on my Facebook page. Click on "more" and at the bottom of the list click on "notes". The story is "Boat Trip North".

BandB said:

Yes, I'd like to hear too. What are the can't miss areas of coastal British Columbia?

And while you're at it, entry and re-entry issues with food?

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BandB

If you're not stopping you do not need to clear customs. Therefore you do not have food issues.

If you are going to clear customs then neither side likes you to bring fruit into their country.

As far as places to stop, and routs, I've made the trip twice but both trips were basically delivery trips, so we didn't get to explore. I'll never do that again. Next time we take our time and explore.

The route we took is basically the ferry route. The scenery is great, but after a while its all the same. We'd see a otter and fight for position to get a good photo.

Remember that I live here so I've got decades of experience in a temperate rain forest. First timers probably ooh and awe at everything in Alaska.

Cool things in BC are lighthouses, and the scenery.

Towns I've stopped in and enjoyed are:

Nanaimo (great food and town)
Port Hardy (small, but nice fishing town)
Port Mcneill (even smaller nice fishing town)
Bella Bella (stayed at Shearwater)
Prince Rupert (nice dining options, nice little Japanese fishing memorial)

ksanders said:

BandB

If you're not stopping you do not need to clear customs. Therefore you do not have food issues.

If you are going to clear customs then neither side likes you to bring fruit into their country.

As far as places to stop, and routs, I've made the trip twice but both trips were basically delivery trips, so we didn't get to explore. I'll never do that again. Next time we take our time and explore.

The route we took is basically the ferry route. The scenery is great, but after a while its all the same. We'd see a otter and fight for position to get a good photo.

Remember that I live here so I've got decades of experience in a temperate rain forest. First timers probably ooh and awe at everything in Alaska.

Cool things in BC are lighthouses, and the scenery.

Towns I've stopped in and enjoyed are:

Nanaimo (great food and town)
Port Hardy (small, but nice fishing town)
Port Mcneill (even smaller nice fishing town)
Bella Bella (stayed at Shearwater)
Prince Rupert (nice dining options, nice little Japanese fishing memorial)

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I know no food issues not stopping, was wondering what people had experienced back and forth as that was one of the contributing factors in our preference.

For the OP, I might suggest as routing to look at some of the rallies, like the just cancelled Salty Dog. They have some details for some of the stops.

salty dog rally alaska, se ak cruising, se ak fishing, gsi boat, fishing wrangell AK, Fishing Petersburg AK,

Also the Waggoner Cruising Guide is excellent.

And a Sunshine Coast travel guide:

http://www.sunshinecoast.worldweb.com/

At least the mad cow scare is past.

Here are possible stops on our list from Vancouver to Ketchikan. Now recognize our list is slanted toward marinas and predominantly those able to accommodate larger boats.

Pender Harbour
Saltery Bay
Powell River
Desolation Sound
Cortes Island
Campbell River
Port McNeill
Port Hardy
Bella Bella
Prince Rupert

You'll notice also that the majority of those have ferry routes to them. To us that is a positive factor as those are likely to be very navigable routes.

manyboats said:

...I have a trip story basically taken from our log book...

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Seeing the posts above, you`d need to log logs in the log.

Clearing customs not a big deal. Making tidal changes at many places is a big deal, especially Seymour Narrows. Places to visit include Dent Is Resort, Sullivan Bay and Shearwater.

Without good weather at Cape Caution and Dixon Entrance your trip will be tight. 100 footers wait out big seas at both these places. Plan on easy 18 hour days this time of the year.

You have gotten some good advice, enjoy the trip. I just did a non stop from Bellingham to Ketchikan, it took about 36 hours on the Kennicott.

sunchaser said:

I just did a non stop from Bellingham to Ketchikan, it took about 36 hours on the Kennicott.

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Oh, that little Trinity Yacht....lol

BandB said:

You guessed it. Going to do Alaska. Return to Port Angeles. Then go to Canada. Just felt it was easier this way plus did it based on guests at various times of our trip. So easy to just cross from Port Angeles to Victoria and then enjoy Canada. Return from Vancouver to Port Angeles. The other reality is that even in two months you can't see all you'd like to.



As to route, we're going up on the inside, returning on the outside. Prefer daylight but feel like we're well equipped both from the captain side and the equipment side for it. We'll go slower at night. Plus dark is rather on the short side. Sunrise today in Ketchikan was 4:09 AM and sunset was 9:22 PM. Taking a half hour before and half hour after for light, that only leaves you with 6 1/2 hours or so of darkness. We will not take chances. We'd change the plans in an instant if circumstances warranted. Fog is a far greater concern than dark to us.



Yes, odd route. Not what we'd necessarily recommend for others.

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Going up the inside, in the dark , at 15 knots, you had better be on a ferry or a heavy steel hulled tug or fishing boat ! !

Please Do NOT underestimate the log and flotsam problem!

I recommend clearing Canada Customs, it is not a big issue but will become one if you encounter hull or running gear damage and need to dock somewhere in Canada where there are no local Customs Officers!


Bob

Here is a link to a very detailed guide put out by NW Explorations. It has a Bellingham to Ketchikan route you may find useful.

http://www.nwexplorations.com/documents/bellingham-to-ketchikan.pdf

Mr Hippo said:

Here is a link to a very detailed guide put out by NW Explorations. It has a Bellingham to Ketchikan route you may find useful.

http://www.nwexplorations.com/documents/bellingham-to-ketchikan.pdf

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Darn. I forgot about that one, although we've used it too. Glad you mentioned it.

BandB said:

Here are possible stops on our list from Vancouver to Ketchikan. Now recognize our list is slanted toward marinas and predominantly those able to accommodate larger boats.

Pender Harbour
Saltery Bay
Powell River
Desolation Sound
Cortes Island
Campbell River
Port McNeill
Port Hardy
Bella Bella
Prince Rupert

You'll notice also that the majority of those have ferry routes to them. To us that is a positive factor as those are likely to be very navigable routes.

Click to expand...

Now I'm confused. Your post #2 says you're planning to go non-stop from Bellingham to Ketchikan, and this post says Vancouver to Ketchikan with potential stops along the way.

Did you change your plans entirely, or did I miss something?

I add my $.02 of caution regarding running AT ANY SPEED at night thru BC. Last time I transited Finlayson Channel past Klemtu last summer, it was like driving on the freeway after a logging truck dumped it's load. There were logs everywhere. And your running gear won't give a whit if you're going slow or not if you smack a nice 18" x 40' cedar log. It'll be toast. Be very, very watchful.

Not clearing into Canada on the trip? Should you be delayed by mechanical issues (see previous paragraph), or weather (highly likely, even in summer) and are forced to come to anchor in Canadian waters, be prepared to spend major time in discussions with the RCMP. They really frown on illegals in-country, which you immediately become when your anchor hits bottom, or you are hauled for repairs. And it's a snap clearing into Canada, into USA in Ketchikan, and vice versa on southbound trip.

Enjoy your trip. Ferry route is easy, but they run at speed 24/7 (big, steel, etc.). And you'd be well served to stay out of there way. But even the BC Ferrys have had issues with "things" in the water at night (ref: Queen of the North).

Pete

Nsail said:

Now I'm confused. Your post #2 says you're planning to go non-stop from Bellingham to Ketchikan, and this post says Vancouver to Ketchikan with potential stops along the way.

Did you change your plans entirely, or did I miss something?

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No, not at all. Just have always had multiple options and so did research various stops. We're prepared for anything. We never travel without knowing in advance if trouble arose in any given spot where we'd head or if we just wanted to change plans.

Was just providing information for the OP in that post. We can easily remove a day in Washington, add one or two on the trip North to Ketchikan. We have yet to stick to our planned schedule for any cruising and doubt we ever will. Always get the latest reports on conditions too. Maybe shadow the M/V Columbia. Not likely.

Sorry to have confused you. For now we've escaped back out from Lake Union and Lake Washington. I'd hate to see that lock on a holiday or even weekend.

No worries as I am sometimes easily confused!

I don't think I've ever stuck exactly to a plan on the water either.

nautibeaver said:

Ok, ok, night travel will be difficult for a lot of us, logs are definitely a danger BandB seems to have a mission and a plan, . now back to my question...surely there are a lot of folks on here that have done this trip. Looking for advice, routes, tips, don't miss locations.


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Well sir, I think this is a crazy idea. For most people this is a trip of a lifetime, usually a 4-5 week passage, not 9 days. There are hundreds of must see spots, but your going to miss most of them because you have a time line to adhere to, and you'll need to settle for the closest safe anchorage or marina at the end of your day. You will be traveling when you shouldn't be because you won't have the time to wait for better weather.

If you take the route via Seymour Narrows, the slack tide will dictate when you go, not you. The whirl pools are huge. If you go the inner route, you have four sets of rapids to hit at slack tide, and they can't be done all together because they are to far apart.

Crossing the bigger bodies of water is almost always a early morning (daybreak) start. You want to be across them before the afternoon winds pick up.

Make sure you have all the Douglass travel guides and the 2014 Waggoner cruising guide for the most up to date marina information. Good luck.

Russell Clifton said:

Well sir, I think this is a crazy idea. For most people this is a trip of a lifetime, usually a 4-5 week passage, not 9 days. There are hundreds of must see spots, but your going to miss most of them because you have a time line to adhere to, and you'll need to settle for the closest safe anchorage or marina at the end of your day. You will be traveling when you shouldn't be because you won't have the time to wait for better weather.

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To commit to any length if it leads you to not respect weather on any cruise anywhere is wrong. Schedules must be in pencil, not pen.

Now as to nine days at 10-12 knots, it could be five 15 hour days, leaving four days free or 6 hours per day every day. It's more a delivery than cruise. But he doesn't indicate that's the end of his cruising in Alaska. If this is to just get the boat to Ketchikan and he has much more planned later, then so be it. I'm guessing his trip may be limited by time off. Then enjoy it as it is. Just don't push on if conditions say not to.

In our case we're planning 60 total days of which 40 will be in Alaska. That's still not many. Would be easy to spend 90 but we've chosen a 60 day cruise for now. That being the case we then had to choose those areas we wanted most to see. We chose to stop in 11 locations. Easily a hundred possible. The Sunshine Coast of BC wasn't in our top 11 for stops and overnights and days. More for passing by. Doesn't mean there isn't plenty to see. But with 11 we'll get to explore each of them at least a couple or three days. And the good thing is that one day we'll probably return and there will still be plenty to see that we missed this trip.

Longest we've ever held over because of weather was Panama City, FL. for 6 days.