Another Failed Float Switch!

lelievre12 said:

I have had most of my Rule flapper switches fail. I have started changing them out for Rule Automatic. Gets rid of the flapper and separate wiring entirely!

I just put a Rule 750 automatic inside my grey water tank and good results so far. see RULE INDUSTRIES Rule-Mate Fully Automatic Bilge Pumps | West Marine

I am 24v which makes pump buying a bit of a trick.

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I'll be interested to hear how you make out. The automatic pumps are the ones I've had the most trouble with.

Not only are the autos infamous, for bilge use 750 GPH on a boat that size is way too small. I hope lelievre12 is only attempting them in a shower sump and not the bilges. If also bilges,S/B 2000 at a minimum with bilges that size. I used 2000's in my sumps since they also act as high water back ups., plus they really move the water out of there. 24 volt pumps and switches are readily available from a number of sources. Heck, the Hatteras has 32 volt and I had zero issues sourcing pumps and switches.

I have been using the WW switches for about 12 years now. No failures. No issues. All of my centrifugal pumps would be considered "crash" pumps by most folks, as they all have 1&1/2 inch outlets and are plumbed to thru hulls that are mounted as high as practical. My "dewatering" pumps are the belt driven diaphram type. They are easily repairable and mine are all the same, 1 inch outlet pumps so I keep a complete spare and lots of parts. They are fairly expensive. The best thing about the WW switch is the over run feature, it allows the diaphram pump to run awhile after the switch has no water on it. These pumps can remove just about all of the bilge water, unlike the centrifugals which by design cannot, then you get the hose water run back also. All of my diaphram pumps pull thru perko raw water strainers to help keep the big chunks out of the pump. All of the switches are wired to a pair of 30 amp relays so the switch itself doesnt carry the pump load. I use a pair of relays for redundancy, 1 would work fine. I have not had any issues with oil stopping the float from working, even with oil in the bilge. It doesnt seam to "coat" the contacts and prevent them from working. The switch just wont turn on until it gets water on the contacts (under the oil) then it turns off when the water is not on the contacts (oil still there). The over run will cause your pump to pump the oil until it times out. Sometimes that is not desirable.

"All of my diaphram pumps pull thru perko raw water strainers to help keep the big chunks out of the pump" That is a great approach I have never thought of!


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Lehman 135 Twins

Bilge pump switch. After 18 hour crab trip (next day) I top up with with fuel,check engine oil, tranny, coolant,hydraulic oil , steering fluid etc.I check float switch by raising switch a few times.Perfect.I have 3 aboard, Then I heard a pump running without water in bilge and smoke coming from _uper switch..Nothing under switch but I am guilty with not using the inline fuse

"All of my diaphram pumps pull thru perko raw water strainers to help keep the big chunks out of the pump" That is a great approach I have never thought of!

I have a pair of Perko 2 inch strainers (bronze ) in the for sale section , if you have big pumps.

If you are looking for a switch that will last decades, trouble free, and has no wires in the bilge, and will not be kept running by crud on the sensors, and will not fail to run on rainwater. This is the one (Jabsco also makes one like it)


Groco Bilge Pump Control Kit

I think this is the best trouble free solucion:
https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=133&item=84768&intAbsolutePage=1
and one Relais.
Important : this Johnson swich has a timer for 4 second !
With this combinatioin i have never more probleme with this parts.

i see this swich are in whitworths are very expensive, i pay in Westmarine 42.- $
________________
Norbert

supertramp,Whitworths chandlery chain in Australia is not cheap. I got 2 of those from Amazon for that price, incl shipping. Good switches.
I like the Groco system, but never seen it sold here,so local insurers won`t know it, and something going wrong could mean claim troubles.

I have used gems switches for many years they seem to outlast the systems they control. Years ago I was in a yard that was refitting a high-end motor yacht. They were selling lots of scrap gear. I ended up with a few boxes of reed switches. They all worked after 20 years of duty and I expect they are still working.
I have also seen a set up in a sailboat’s shower sump that I liked. They had a manual spring timer switch. You turn it when your feet got wet and it cuts off a few minutes later
Liquid Level Switches | Pressure Sensors & Switches | Flow Sensors - Gems™ Sensors & Controls

I havent been using my aft shower so I put some clorox in the sump for smell. My rule float switch failed the next time I used it. Maybe the clorox ate up the seals letting water inside. I thought it was a fluke so I put some more clorox in the fwd shower sump and started using the aft shower. This time I didnt use as much clorox, and to my amazement it failed too. I think it might have been my fault adding the clorox. I just wonder what other chemicals harm these float switches?

Magnawake said:

I think it might have been my fault adding the clorox. I just wonder what other chemicals harm these float switches?

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My Microphor type II Marine sanitation system has an accumulator tank and pump at the outflow. My partner tried twice to replace the submerged $200 Microphor pump with a $20 350 gph Rule bilge pump ("they look the same!") before he figured out the chlorine from the sanitizer was eating up the seals in short order. Any strong chemicals such as chlorine, dish washer soap, or solvents will take a toll on bilge pumps.

I used distilled white vinegar in my sumps to very good effect. Would actually pour it down the sink and shower drains to give them a cleaning on the way to the sump. The sump serving our master stateroom had a simple Rule switch in it for 5 years of full time live aboard use; it was still working when I proactively changed it out.

Distilled vinegar is one of those cheap simple wonder products, like aspirin. Great to pour down the heads on a regular basis and for many cleaning/freshening chores such as bilges.

caltexflanc said:

. Sumps, I suppose you could go cheap, but on my boat the sumps also act as high water back-ups.

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How do your sumps act as high water back-ups? Aren't they in sealed boxes?

Aquabelle said:

How do your sumps act as high water back-ups? Aren't they in sealed boxes?

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No, they are in open-topped boxes whose lip is right above the bilges. If the sump's pump/switch fails, it over flows into a bilge. If the water in the bilge gets high enough, it flows into the sump. While it's a nice and thoughtful design, a "true" high water back up is mounted at a level closer to that of the high water alarm, and of more capacity than the 2000GPH in the sumps. But why not have all the help you can get?

I use "Clean Potties" (CP) in my shower sump when I leave the boat. Peggy recommended this as a way to keep the sumps clean and odor free. I just wonder is this may be aggregating my failed float switch problems?
I don't use chlorine bleach. I know that will shrink rubber seals.

Thank you for the feedback on the best float switches to purchase. Sounds like my experience with Rule switches is pretty universal.

Taras

Taras said:

I use "Clean Potties" (CP) in my shower sump when I leave the boat. I just wonder is this may be aggregating my failed float switch problems?

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Hmmm!! Read the MSDS Data Sheet for the product. If there is no bleach, solvents, oil lye or caustic soda, I wouldn't think it would be a problem. But I use el cheapo Rule/West Marine float switches myself and as long as the bilge stays clean, I don't seem to have a problem with switches or pumps. If you're losing switches very often, then somethings is getting to them??