FL 120 Smokes more after oil change.

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BruceK wrote;
"Always thought multigrade oils were made as an improvement on single viscosity oils"

That's the problem. Most everybody views MV oil that way. And in your car they are an improvement but not better in your boat. They actually are inferior if you warm up your boat engine rather slowly.

The reason for MV oils in the first place was to be able to start your car or truck engine in the coldest of weather. With the mild Pacific weather on the west coast there was no problem but in much of the rest of the world sub zero weather WAS a problem. Along came 10W-30 oil. And if you put lots of that stuff called viscosity improver (VI) in oil they could make 10W-40 oil. The VI dosn't directly help lubricate your engine so IMO your better off having the oil in your engine than w the VI. The name of the game is to use only as much VI as you need.

I run multi-vis oils in my cars and trucks because often I more or less need it to drive them fairly fast just after startup. I run full synthetic in my new turbocharged car and the 10W-30 that I use probably dosn't have any VI in it as the synthetic oil has the properties of multi-vis oil without any VI at all in the oil. This is because the synthetic oil is more viscosity stable than the dino oils made from crude oil. They don't make 5W-60 oil .. probably because it would require too much VI to make it conform to the 5W-60 specification. So it appears that with that much VI in the oil even the manufacturers of oil think it would not be safe to put on the market. All the manufacturers would love to be the first to offer a 5W-60 oil as it would be viewed as an "improvement" and probably sell quite well. Also you will only find 5W-50 in synthetic oil as it would require too much VI for dino oil. Most people start their cars and drive them normally (or close to normally) when cold so even though they can start their car w straight Wt oil the MV oil is better when they drive their car stone cold on the road. So for cars BruceK the multi-vis is an improvement. Big diesel truck engines warm up slowly and most use MV oil to get the trucks on the road quickly as time is money in the business.

BUT .. with our boats we don't "drive" them right away. We warm them up before operating them fairly fast and under load. So we do not need the MV oil. And straight weight oil has more oil in it and as a result better lubricity. MV oil in your car is a useful feature but serves no purpose in your boat.
 
Take a quart of 10w30 and measure the viscosity at 32 degrees. Do the same with 10 weight. Take a quart of 10w30 and measure the viscosity at 210 degrees. Do the same with 30 weight. 10 weight will be great lube at 32 degrees and flow good. 30 weight will be great lube at 210 degrees and flow good. 10 weight will be very poor lube at 210 degrees and 30 weight will be very poor lube at 32 degrees. BUT, 10w30 works great. If I did not have to use straight weight oil in my DDs I definitely wouldnt. There is no comparison between sw and mv oils where mv doesnt win.
 
This is a complicated topic. Oils have evolved over the decades, and what was printed in the Lehman manual has not changed much in three or four decades!!

Also, some of the oil spec stuff is probably copied from the Ford manuals, and are not specific to the marine application. Mostly for truck, ag and industrial.

For example, the Lehman has a sea water oil cooler, so what difference does ambient temp make regarding oil selection? Should they not say sea water temp?

Lehmans also run very cool (IMHO, TOO cool) oil temps. Usually around 150-170F. So viscosity of a 30wt is similar to a 40 or 50wt at a normal oil temp of 200-220F. Most engines use coolant to cool oil, and that keeps temp up. Probably would be best to run a 10w-30 oil in a Lehman, but that is hard to find.

Considering how basic and rugged the Lehman Ford is, I don't think you COULD hurt it running any modern commercially availble lube. Use what makes you happy!!

And to the OP- Whether the Lehman smokes more or less probably has more to do with the engines "mood" that day than anything else!!:rolleyes:
 
Well that felt like a waste of time. Guess I'll go work on my exhaust system and change the start battery cables.
 
There is nothing as satisfying as an oil thread. Personally I use Yak oil whenever I can. Not too many places sell it anymore due to the difficulties in refining it. Available in multiple viscosity depending on the time of year it's harvested...

img_232607_0_5411b63975c2c7991713eefad2132604.jpg
 
Well I can see post #31 was a waste of time.

But Ski in NC has a point that one could run practically anything and be fine.
 
Eric,

You opinions about multivis oils could use some updating.

Research viscosity index and viscosity temperature curves. Also recognize that most synthetic oils have a high VI and act as a multi viscosity oil without viscosity modifiers.

That said 30 weight oil is probably just fine for a Ford Lehman.
 
Spy,
I appreciate your directness. I really do and I wouldn't from everybody but it looks like you didn't wade through my whole post as I addressed the superior VI capabilities of synthetic oil. And as you say some of my opinions could use some updating. Not sure what opinions though.

And as you say 30W oil is just fine for a Lehman. Actually a tiny bit better and how much better is clearly fly stuff. Small fly stuff at that but the point I'm trying to make is that most everyone thinks multi-vis oil is better because it came later and is as BruceK wrote an "improvement" over straight weight. Out w the old in w the new frame of mind. It is but only if you need it and the straight weight oil is very marginally better if you don't.

One can make the decision to use straight or MV and have absolutely no concern as to whether or not they made a decision that could get them in trouble.

And I should add that because of the temperatures involved any engine w a turbocharger that has engine lube oil circulating through the turbo should follow the manufacturers recommendations especially as to syn or non and viscosity re temps and usage.

Please correct me if I'm not up to date on the above. Frankly if you like.

dh and RT ... that's what forums are for .. Yakaty Yak
 
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There is nothing as satisfying as an oil thread. Personally I use Yak oil whenever I can. Not too many places sell it anymore due to the difficulties in refining it. Available in multiple viscosity depending on the time of year it's harvested...

img_232628_0_5411b63975c2c7991713eefad2132604.jpg

how many yaks do you have milk to get 12 qts of oil?:banghead:
 
eh,
I'd guess 10 - 30 but perhaps just 30 would be best.
 
Well there's the rub. MY Lehman manual dated June 1986 lists only single weight oils and it also states the 50 hour oil change interval on the Simms pump. See table copied from the manual below.
Interesting. My Manual is 1978. Did Lehman rethink the issue? I suppose we could interrogate Brian Smith about it, but I`m staying with MV, I`d have trouble finding hi spec single weight here.
My Manual also says 50 hours for the injection pump too.
 
I know there are different opinions and I respect everyone's. As a complete newbie to diesel motors and several things trawler I am really learning a lot on this forum. I research just about everything. The two areas that seem to get the strongest opinions are oil and anchors. When the discussion gets to bourbon or wine, or wives or girlfriends, I will post my opinions. Until then I really appreciate all of the opinions and information.

Jeff
 
A picture of the paragraph in one of my Lehman 120 manuals, specifying a 200-hour oil change period in the Simms pump.
 

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A picture of the paragraph in one of my Lehman 120 manuals, specifying a 200-hour oil change period in the Simms pump.

What is the date of the manual? Just curious.

All the above said, when someone has an engine failure where the root cause can be determined to be because the incorrect weight of oil was used, please post it.
Thanks!
 
I know there are different opinions and I respect everyone's. As a complete newbie to diesel motors and several things trawler I am really learning a lot on this forum. I research just about everything. The two areas that seem to get the strongest opinions are oil and anchors. When the discussion gets to bourbon or wine, or wives or girlfriends, I will post my opinions. Until then I really appreciate all of the opinions and information.

Jeff


I've learned an enormous amount from this Forum too. But maybe the greatest lesson was one I had to figure out myself - we sometimes worry way too much about things that just aren't going to make all that much difference.
 
Lurker,
I talk about oil, anchors and hull forms because I think those things are interesting. Hardly anybodies "worried" about the choices. Like philosophy. Not for worry. Just interesting matter to talk about.

Two other things that enter into the multi-vis question:

1. Over 95% of the current engines going into trawlers have turbocharged engines and will probably require MV oil

2. They make straight wt oil presumably for engine applications that don't require MV. The Alaska state ferries are powered by big enterprise diesels and I'll bet they use straight wt oil.

Other than the fact that some manual says so why on earth would one want or need to change the Simms pump oil more often than every 200 hrs? Does the fuel contaminate the pump lube oil? That would pop the question of how often do the pumps fail. Why did they design the engine w a separate oil supply in the first place? Also for later engines that use engine lube oil the fuel leaking into the lube oil would be a problem for the engine itself. And that would apply to most engines old and newer. Haven't heard a lot about fuel contamination in diesel engines.
 
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Lurker,
I talk about oil, anchors and hull forms because I think those things are interesting. Hardly anybodies "worried" about the choices. Like philosophy. Not for worry. Just interesting matter to talk about.


Eric:

My remark was aimed at newbies who do worry about such things. At least I did when first getting into the game and it seems other newbies may also.

But I fully understand the interest of the more experienced to ponder on the philosophy of choice of viscosity, anchor types, single vs. twins, etc. Give me an adult beverage or two and an audience and you can't shut me up on topics of interest to me!

My comments were just a heads-up to newbies to not get too wrapped up in the finer points at this stage of the learning process.
 
Luker,
Yes. And something that should be said. We need to talk in a language that most everybody understands and many aren't prone to belly up to the bar and say "wa dat fo".
 
what is the date of the manual? Just curious.

All the above said, when someone has an engine failure where the root cause can be determined to be because the incorrect weight of oil was used, please post it.
Thanks!

1980
 
We could have a date and hours graph depicting changes in specs for changing the injector pump oil, and still not resolve it.
We`d be better off asking the yak.
 
I had the exact same problem once when I couldn't get my usual Rotella 30wgt. I put in 40wgt Pennzoil and it smoked like Edward R. Murrow. When I got home and changed back to Rotella, the clouds receded and the sun came out.

The original PO used Sears 30wgt. for the first 15 years so apparently anything can be used. I would have continued but Sears no longer sells it's own brand of motor oil.
 
I had the exact same problem once when I couldn't get my usual Rotella 30wgt. I put in 40wgt Pennzoil and it smoked like Edward R. Murrow. When I got home and changed back to Rotella, the clouds receded and the sun came out.

The original PO used Sears 30wgt. for the first 15 years so apparently anything can be used. I would have continued but Sears no longer sells it's own brand of motor oil.

I remember when Sears had it's own brand of motor oil and they would even sell it in bulk (bring your own container).

I never did see a Sears oil well or refinery though.
 
........... Better to find information about engineering (like oils) from an engineering source, not a mechanic. A mechanic's job and expertise is to troubleshoot, repair and or replace defective components. They are not scientists or engineers. They are a great source of what they think including old wives tales...........

:thumb::thumb::thumb:
 

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