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Old 07-10-2010, 03:33 AM   #4
FF
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Fiberglass work?

"Secondary bonding" , and glassing after the initial hardening period requires that it be ground that 75% of the surface is glass for the new resin to bond to. (USCG sub T build rules).

This usually means any glassing after the first 24 hours , tho with uninspected work and Vynelester resin about 3 days does work.The Gellcoat and everything else in the way of the glass fibers has to go.


I would use epoxy for a structural repair as first choice (with appropriate glass) or Vynelester as second choice .


Use laminating resin (no wax) untill the last layer is inplace.

Rather than keep 2 styles of resin , we usually roll a top coat on an hour after the layup , and grind it off before painting.

Inital sanding can be a pleasure or a horror , we use a 2 inch $70 Bher Manning pad with a glued on sanding disc of #16 or 24 floor sanding paper.

Silicone carbide as the sanding material works better than aluminum oxide of most auto body discs, and its far easier to not wreck the surface with the big flat pad.

Wear a good dust mask and vaccume everything.

Talcum powder on yourself , is good for later glass dust removal.

Get a "steel roller" and learn how to use it when glassing , A MUST!!!

IF its a small job OZ marked plastic cups will work to measure the hardener, but the squeeze bottle with measuring cup built on top is faster and far easier , under $10.

-- Edited by FF on Saturday 10th of July 2010 04:38:05 AM
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