ER lights

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Slowboat 37

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Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Messages
191
I would never call myself an Electrician but I did think this was a simple task. I was replacing the original round glass fixture in the er with a fluorescent tube model about 20in. There is only two wires how hard can it be? Hook it up, nothing. connect the other way,still nothing. the new fixture does have a green ground screw but no wire or instructions about needing one. What am I missing?
 
I would never call myself an Electrician but I did think this was a simple task. I was replacing the original round glass fixture in the er with a fluorescent tube model about 20in. There is only two wires how hard can it be? Hook it up, nothing. connect the other way,still nothing. the new fixture does have a green ground screw but no wire or instructions about needing one. What am I missing?


Are the ones your connecting meant for 120v applications?
 
Are the ones your connecting meant for 120v applications?
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Good thought.

Try using the green grd. terminal. I have one of these things though in my E.R. and it's just the two D.C. wires, no ground, and it works fine. 15" Marinelight.

Are the tubes actually in the holders properly? Sometimes the tube pins do not make contact with the fingers in the holder untill wiggled just right.

Are the wires between ballast and the holders actually in place?

Are the tubes or at least one of them faulty.

The holders could be faulty.
The ballast could be faulty.

I assume you checked that there is voltage at the ballast.
Any hum, not a guarantee that the ballast works since some of them are dead quiet.

A last test would be use the voltmeter and put the probes in the tube holders and turn the unit on. One probe in holder of one of the tubes at each end.


BE CAREFULL.

i know the 120V units, rapid starts, produce upwards of 350v to start the tubes and once the tube lights that voltage drops to ~ 60V. I have never tested my little 12V unit but I suspect the startup voltage would be similar so be carefull or you could get one heck of a blast.

If you don't see something like that then I would suspect a faulty ballast, new or not.

Just a last warning about flourescents in case someone thinks 350V is ok, Some types of flourescent tubes use upwards of 750V which can give a real blast and ruin your meter. So if you try this at the shop/home be very carefull.
The INSTANT START types are the higher voltage.
 
I would suggest going with the led strip lights as I have done. I little soldering and about 20$ a light. Less than 1 watt of burn and 50k hour life span. Everything can be purchased from amazon and 1/10 the cost of pre made. ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1399228440.256512.jpg they work on 12v but <10$ and you can connect to 120v. Replaced all my fluorescent and 12v circle lights with them.


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I would suggest going with the led strip lights as I have done. I little soldering and about 20$ a light.

Nice!! Do you have a parts list or light construction diagram??
 
Could not paste link so hope these pics work. ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1399230974.072742.jpgImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1399231014.245428.jpg

I just took some 20g wire soldered (I'm very inexperienced, but it was easy) to the cut to length strip light. I hobby glued the lights to the aluminum trays. And cleaned up with white shrink wrap.

I'll send pics of the connections later when home. If you need more light you can double up with pre made connectors. Actually you can cut the connectors and use half for your link to the power source. ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1399231922.518038.jpg



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Also, sorry for the messy ER pic, this was taken as I was replacing the ceiling with the diamond plate, mid project.


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Also, sorry for the messy ER pic, this was taken as I was replacing the ceiling with the diamond plate, mid project.


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Sorry, your engine room is bigger than the inside of my boat. Love it!
 
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Good thought.

Try using the green grd. terminal. I have one of these things though in my E.R. and it's just the two D.C. wires, no ground, and it works fine. 15" Marinelight.

Are the tubes actually in the holders properly? Sometimes the tube pins do not make contact with the fingers in the holder untill wiggled just right.

Are the wires between ballast and the holders actually in place?

Are the tubes or at least one of them faulty.

The holders could be faulty.
The ballast could be faulty.

I assume you checked that there is voltage at the ballast.
Any hum, not a guarantee that the ballast works since some of them are dead quiet.

A last test would be use the voltmeter and put the probes in the tube holders and turn the unit on. One probe in holder of one of the tubes at each end.


BE CAREFULL.

i know the 120V units, rapid starts, produce upwards of 350v to start the tubes and once the tube lights that voltage drops to ~ 60V. I have never tested my little 12V unit but I suspect the startup voltage would be similar so be carefull or you could get one heck of a blast.

If you don't see something like that then I would suspect a faulty ballast, new or not.

Just a last warning about flourescents in case someone thinks 350V is ok, Some types of flourescent tubes use upwards of 750V which can give a real blast and ruin your meter. So if you try this at the shop/home be very carefull.
The INSTANT START types are the higher voltage.

Yes I checked the tubes and wires and they are good and the light is 120v. But I think I will take it all back and look into the led strips, I really like that Idea, it' bright and with the lights all around you won't have to be in the shadows sometimes.

Thanks!
 
I think you'll be happy with that decision, Slowboat. The low draw of LEDs will payback when you forget to turn off the ER lights and find them still on after a day or two on anchor. Lots of LEDs to pick from. Compare warmth ratings for the comfortable tone for you.
 
Agreed about the LEDs. i am in the process of changing my boat over to all LED.
That may include the E.R. , even the little flourescent.
 
As to the color ratings or color temp, this is a critical item. I have pure white or bright white in the engine room, this is not the color temp I would want on the inside of the cabin, if you are going with inside and like the warm glow of Xeon or halogen lights, make sure you get something in the 2700k range. Not all LEDs that say 2700k are, so try before buying a bunch. It is very hard to truly find a comparable warm light. I have found a few that are close but the admiral always points them out as not the same. As for the engine room, 3000-4500k is fine. It is meant to be clinical feeling down there and those are brighter to me anyway. 1000bulbs dot com seem to have some of the best to choose from.


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Agreed about the LEDs. i am in the process of changing my boat over to all LED.
That may include the E.R. , even the little flourescent.

You raise an interesting issue. Is there a difference in energy use between fluorescents and LEDs? When I compare lumins they appear about the same with the fluorescents costing a little less in initial purchase price.
 
Polished diamond plate on the ceiling. WOW!
 
Polished diamond plate on the ceiling. WOW!

'Swhat I was thinking too. As for messy...he doesn't know the meaning of the word, does he..?
But yes, the LED strip lighting in great for the ER. I replaced, or rather added as an alternative, LEDs right through the boat, as sometimes we like to add in a bit of good old tungsten colour, but the warm white LED now readily available makes even that on tap now. They came out later. The strip in the ER was the last to go in. I won't be zinc plating my ER ceiling though.
 
We have 4 fluorescent lights in the ER, we love them we also have domes as backups.
 
There's a fairly new series of LED strip lights that are at least twice as bright as the 35XX....believe it's 5050 or 5030 series. Worth the extra cost. I did our kitchen under cabinets with the 3528 and then ripped them all out and replaced with the brighter version when they came on the market. Don't buy the water proof version as the backing glue is terrible.
 
Yes, LEDs are more efficient than floescent. I'm not sure of the exact ratio, but I'd expect around 1/2 the power, maybe even less.
 
Nautibeaver

How did you attach the aluminum channel to the overhead? I assume small sheet metal screws? Also did you wire the lighting direct to the existing wiring from the dome lights? Your set up looks very good and I have been contemplating the same type set up. The 4 dome lights I have really don't throw enough light.
 
There's a fairly new series of LED strip lights that are at least twice as bright as the 35XX....believe it's 5050 or 5030 series. Worth the extra cost. I did our kitchen under cabinets with the 3528 and then ripped them all out and replaced with the brighter version when they came on the market. Don't buy the water proof version as the backing glue is terrible.

Thanks for the advice, skidgear. I just finished pricing a 10M warm 5050 LED strip with 3 power supplies and dimmer switches for the home kitchen and office at $100 on Amazon. Not bad at all!

Brightness has been my concern with the strips used for task lighting instead of mood lighting. I currently have some halogen puck lights in one area, but they get hot! Do you feel they'd be bright enough to work under-cabinet for kitchen tasks?
 
I would never call myself an Electrician but I did think this was a simple task. I was replacing the original round glass fixture in the er with a fluorescent tube model about 20in. There is only two wires how hard can it be? Hook it up, nothing. connect the other way,still nothing. the new fixture does have a green ground screw but no wire or instructions about needing one. What am I missing?

Were the old lights 120 volt or 12 volt?

I'm assuming the new lights are 120 volt AC because you mention a green ground screw. The ground screw has nothing to do with the operation of the lights, it's there for safety and should be connected to the green ground wire of the circuit powering the lights. I assume the two wires are black and white and they should be connected to the circuit black to black and white to white.

Of course, if you're connecting 120 volt AC lights to 12 volts DC, they won't work. You need different lights.
 
I used the existing dome light 12v wires. I drilled holes in one of the aluminum trays and used SS screws. used the clips for the rest. However the clips worked just as well. Puget sound battle tested as I took 38knt constant winds (gust over 45) last month all the way back for port Townsend.

I did double up the trays in a few spots, 2x attached to same power source. Replaced 4 fluorescent (don't use 120v anymore for lighting down there) and 8 round lights with these. I have 12 total installed. 8 single trays and 2 double. I have more light than the old 8 circle and 4 fluorescents put out.

Here is a picture I just took from my engine room cam (it's a lot of light)ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1399337828.131094.jpg

Ping me if you need any help getting going, I can whip them out pretty quick these days I have now done the same for my stairway, under bed, under counter, above entertainment system and lazerette on the boat. For 20$ a light (most of that in the tray) and 1$ a foot for the LEDs you can't beat it. I used the 2700k warm LEDs for the under bed, under stairs on the boat. Attached pics. ImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1399338216.928076.jpgImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1399338228.553684.jpgImageUploadedByTrawler Forum1399338239.123886.jpg

No trays!!!

The backing that comes on them (led strip lights) sucks, so consider hobby glue to get them to stick to trays, wood, what ever.




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I love the simplicity , with 20,000 hour lights !

Will be copying this thanks !!!!
 
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Thanks for the advice, skidgear. I just finished pricing a 10M warm 5050 LED strip with 3 power supplies and dimmer switches for the home kitchen and office at $100 on Amazon. Not bad at all!

Brightness has been my concern with the strips used for task lighting instead of mood lighting. I currently have some halogen puck lights in one area, but they get hot! Do you feel they'd be bright enough to work under-cabinet for kitchen tasks?

I just checked the brighter LED series used in kitchen....they're 5630s. Sent you a PM.
 
Curious how they are holding up to 14+ volts. The leds I have installed so far, all have a buck / boost circuit to provide them with 12 volts if you supply them with between 10 and 14 volts. Didn't see any listing a voltage range to accommodate alternator elevated voltages.

Ted
 
Been running the ones in the master stateroom and on the stairs for 1+ years now, with no issue. The ER ones (same lights) have only been going for 2-3 months.


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Curious how they are holding up to 14+ volts. The leds I have installed so far, all have a buck / boost circuit to provide them with 12 volts if you supply them with between 10 and 14 volts. Didn't see any listing a voltage range to accommodate alternator elevated voltages.

Ted

Here is an interesting epistle on the subject. Obviously written by someone with something to sell, but my experiences with this company lead me to trust them, and they really understand the issues on boats.

LED Drivers for marine LEDs
 
Here is an interesting epistle on the subject. Obviously written by someone with something to sell, but my experiences with this company lead me to trust them, and they really understand the issues on boats.

LED Drivers for marine LEDs

Interesting read. Not sure I'm buying the,"everybody elses stuff is bad or will cause radio interference or catch on fire" hysteria. Granted, all of his rhetoric is couched with "can". As you said,"he has something to sell and needs to separate himself from the rest.

Ted
 
I just tested 18v (16.3v per my meter with two 9v batteries connected together) going to one of my test strings. Albeit a very short time and seemed to function just fine. No doubt he has a better product, and uses better LEDs, how ever the beauty of the system I put in is, if it breaks, it's the 4$ worth of LED that needs to be replaced. The trays will continue to work. KISS principle.


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