It's official. I'm a trawler owner.

Larmex99 · Apr 27, 2014

I suggest you consider switching to the Seamax pumps from sbmar.com. It is a huge improvement in both the pump and the impeller. They also mail out parts for all Cummins and are extremely reliable. I suggest that you pull the aftercooler and reassemble as per their specs. That is a bulletproof engine when maintained and propped properly. Congrats!

Edit: sorry just reread your post about the HX. You seem to already be up to speed.

bligh · Apr 27, 2014

I think I will leave swapping out to the seamax pump till after the season. It look slike a pretty major job due to all the hardware in the way.
I am a little unsure of how I can handle the call to sbmar.com. I am not sure about all the part numbers. When I disassembled the elbow off the raw water pump, there is a thin oring in it that needs to be replaced. I dont even know how to order that part as I dont even know which sherwood pump I have. Any suggestions?

Larmex99 · Apr 27, 2014

There are only a few variations in pumps and they ship them with a range of different o-rings and gaskets, some of which are not needed. When you give them your model and cpl(version) they will know exactly what you need.

You are correct though the installation can be a bear depending on your installation. Hopefully you won't have to jack the engine up to remove the engine mount, but if you do you can imagine trying to do it on the water with no help and no 2nd engine. I did both of mine before I moved the boat and neither of the Sherwoods that I removed was even good enough for a spare without a complete rebuild. I just bought a third pump......ugh. Good luck!

FlyWright · Apr 27, 2014

Why are you displeased with your engine surveyor? Did he steer you wrong? Provide insufficient info?

bligh · Apr 27, 2014

Larmex99 said:
There are only a few variations in pumps and they ship them with a range of different o-rings and gaskets, some of which are not needed. When you give them your model and cpl(version) they will know exactly what you need.

Do you mean engine model? Or raw water pump model? At this point I just need an o ring for the 90 degree elbow that bolts to the pump outlet. But I have no idea what the pump model is.

As far as the pump replacement, from what I know, the engine needs to be jacked up a little. I'm already doing more than I budgeted for the engine retrofit, so I'd like to wait till the offseason to replace it. How do I know if the Sherwood pump is toasted? To me it would make sense that an impeller that has been sitting idle in an engine for a few years would be easily compromised.

bligh · Apr 27, 2014

FlyWright said:
Why are you displeased with your engine surveyor? Did he steer you wrong? Provide insufficient info?

The surveyor told me how well the previous owner had maintained the engine. When I changed the oil last weekend, the date on the filter was 2009. Somehow, I don't think that an engine that has been well maintained would have 5 year old oil in it or zincs 2/3 'corroded' away (Or a broken impeller and whatever else I am going to find when I disassemble the aftercooler). He also said the racor fuel filters looked great - and they did- until you shine a flashlight on the bowl and see it is full of some sort of sludge.

Regardless, I knew the boat had been sitting for a long time and knew I would have to deal with some of these issues and it's not a total surprise. The surprise is that the surveyor gave a glowing report about the engine that really was not indicative of the maintenance that had (not) been done on the engine. I don't feel like I got any (read 'zero') value of the 500 or so I spent on the engine survey. Not even mentioning the date on the oil filter in the survey is a huge omission IMO.

C lectric · Apr 28, 2014

Bligh,
Seaboard should be very helpfull. What you will need is the CPL number and/or the engine serial number. From those they can figure out a LOT and what they cannot they will tell you what you need to find.
Also on their site is a huge amount of info regarding these engines and what to watch out for. It's almost boggling but it is given to freely help you and other Cummins owners.

Larmex99 · Apr 28, 2014

bligh said:
Do you mean engine model? Or raw water pump model? At this point I just need an o ring for the 90 degree elbow that bolts to the pump outlet. But I have no idea what the pump model is.

As far as the pump replacement, from what I know, the engine needs to be jacked up a little. I'm already doing more than I budgeted for the engine retrofit, so I'd like to wait till the offseason to replace it. How do I know if the Sherwood pump is toasted? To me it would make sense that an impeller that has been sitting idle in an engine for a few years would be easily compromised.

All of the B series take the same pump except the 210 I believe. Yours looks like a 330B or a 370B as they look the same. Of there is no sign of leaks or corrosion you are probably ok. If it was me I would run up the rpm's and do a visual check. Hopefully all is good. You may want to post the question on boatdiesel.com for more experienced advice.

bligh · Apr 28, 2014

I called sbmar today. I have all the new parts I need on their way. They seemed confident in the part numbers so I won't worry about that until it's a problem. I also ordered a new oil cooler so I won't have to worry about it for a while. Sbmar told me to just remove the aftercooler and send it to them for servicing. I might take them up on it, but if I can get the core removed I would like to take it to a local shop for cleaning and pressure testing. They also told me to change the transmission oil every 300 hours as well. I was unaware of that so my to do list just got longer.

bligh · Apr 28, 2014

Aftercooler and oil cooler before removal

Egregious · Apr 28, 2014

bligh said:
Ok, weekend #3 at the dock. My plan was to replace all the raw water hoses on the engine and replace the impeller. I have a new HX and transmission oil cooler on the way, so I figured I could set myself up for that next weekend. So much for plans.
This turned out to be impeller weekend. It took me most of the day to remove the impeller from my sherwood raw water pump. It was really jammed in there. At first I thought it was seized on the shaft, but after a few tried pulling it off for an hour or so, I noticed it would move back and forth on the shaft about 1/16 of an inch. I am guessing it was stuck because there were pieces missing and it was hanging up on the 'bars' inside the impeller housing. I would wrestle with it, then bump the engine, then wrestle with it, repeat. Finally after a few hours, it came out. But it was missing pieces. To top it off I lost the 'key' down the raw water intake hose and had to cut the hose out and retrieve it (+2hrs). I spent the rest of the day cleaning up my mess. I read Tony's instructions on boatdiesel.com how to replace the impeller and his note to be careful not to lose the 'key', but I still dont see how I could have prevented the key from falling down there.
I also noticed the impeller cover was scored, I am assuming the cover needs to be replaced. ?? I would just replace the pump altogether as I am guessing it is original, but it seems like a job for the yard as the engine mount is in the way of the other bolt holding it on.
So next weekend is reassemble the raw water pump and new impeller cover, install new raw water intake hose to the strainer and from the strainer to the sherwood pump. I will also be able to take off the aftercooler to bring back to my shop for disassembly. I'm betting the impeller parts are in there. I'm also curious to see what needs to be done for work on it as well. I'll drop it off at a yard for cleaning or replacement, I suppose.

For the record, I do not recommend the engine surveyor I used. He needs to send my money back and he also deserves a good kick in the nuts. I wont mention his name, but many of you know who he is already.

Welcome to the wonderful world of boating... This might not seem nice, but is what it is. I'm sitting here listening to a refredgertator die, so I might be in teh same boat.

FlyWright · Apr 28, 2014

Egregious said:
Welcome to the wonderful world of boating... This might not seem nice, but is what it is. I'm sitting here listening to a refredgertator die, so I might be in teh same boat.

Quick!! You need a Plan B! Move the beer to the cooler and send the Admiral for ice!

Please keep us posted.

bligh · Apr 28, 2014

Egregious said:
Welcome to the wonderful world of boating... This might not seem nice, but is what it is. I'm sitting here listening to a refredgertator die, so I might be in teh same boat.

No I get it. The reality has set in. I'm hoping to have the freedom to at least leave the dock after I rebuild the cooling system. Hopefully.

Does anyone have any input on the racor fuel polishing system that consists of just a pump and a digital timer? It's called the FPM 050 and uses your exiting filter system.

Art · Apr 28, 2014

bligh said:
No I get it. The reality has set in. I'm hoping to have the freedom to at least leave the dock after I rebuild the cooling system. Hopefully.

Does anyone have any input on the racor fuel polishing system that consists of just a pump and a digital timer? It's called the FPM 050 and uses your exiting filter system.

My fellow boater, bligh

I see it is time for you to enter into and participate with "Boat Zen"

Welcome to your new-boat religion! Now...

- Place your finger tips together in front of you

- Breathe deeply/methodically with eyes closed

- Repeat minimum 3hree times per day while torking on any boat items...

BUT - Never practice Boat Zen more than 30 seconds each time, cause:

Welcome to your new-boat religion! Defined as – “Work before Pleasure”!!
Happy Boating Daze! - Art :speed boat:

PS: You will soon graduate from need for any Boat Zen... when you get items in place and the cruising / hooking begins! Good luck in all you do on your new BABY Boat!

bligh · Apr 28, 2014

Art said:
My fellow boater, bligh

I see it is time for you to enter into and participate with "Boat Zen"

Welcome to your new-boat religion! Now...

- Place your finger tips together in front of you

- Breathe deeply/methodically with eyes closed

- Repeat minimum 3hree times per day while torking on any boat items...

BUT - Never practice Boat Zen more than 30 seconds each time, cause:

Welcome to your new-boat religion! Defined as  Work before Pleasure!!
Happy Boating Daze! - Art

PS: You will soon graduate from need for any Boat Zen... when you get items in place and the cruising / hooking begins! Good luck in all you do on your new BABY Boat!

Ha. I'll need that this weekend for sure.

CPseudonym · Apr 28, 2014

bligh said:
Ha. I'll need that this weekend for sure.

It'll never really be forgotten but the first time you set the anchor in a quiet cove and swim with the kids the wallet pain will numb. A rum and coke or two fingers of Johnny Walker green label on the aft deck at sundown helps too.

bligh · Apr 28, 2014

CPseudonym said:
It'll never really be forgotten but the first time you set the anchor in a quiet cove and swim with the kids the wallet pain will numb. A rum and coke or two fingers of Johnny Walker green label on the aft deck at sundown helps too.

Thanks Craig. The wallet hurts but more so time lost on the water. I know this is a good exercise in patience for me plus I am learning a lot about my systems.

Marlinmike · Apr 29, 2014

You are doing a great thing taking care of all the servicing right off the bat, not many people do that as they are raring to get out and use the boat first.

Seaboard marine/Tony Athen's really know their stuff and with that in mind I would recommend them doing the aftercooler servicing, this is one component if not done correctly can take out your motor. If anything leaving it alone is better then forcing it apart and having it leak after "servicing", just food for thought, all the best.

bligh · Apr 29, 2014

Marlinmike said:
You are doing a great thing taking care of all the servicing right off the bat, not many people do that as they are raring to get out and use the boat first.

Seaboard marine/Tony Athen's really know their stuff and with that in mind I would recommend them doing the aftercooler servicing, this is one component if not done correctly can take out your motor. If anything leaving it alone is better then forcing it apart and having it leak after "servicing", just food for thought, all the best.

Thanks Mike,
I'm going to take the aftercooler off the engine and take off the ends to see what its like (and collect the impeller parts). If it looks ok and comes right apart, I may try to have it serviced here. If it is stuck or looks really fouled up, I'm sending it to Seaboard.

healhustler · Apr 29, 2014

I feel your pain, bligh. I've been over a year now working on the various projects of my boat, not the least of which is re-wiring from a lightning strike 7 months of more ago. Still doing it.

C lectric · Apr 30, 2014

If you go for it then look in Seaboards info for the end cap o rings. They show two photos and what to look for. Get it wrong and the aftercooler will leak feeding your engine saltwater. And study the instructions on their site.

Photos below.

bligh · May 1, 2014

C lectric said:
If you go for it then look in Seaboards info for the end cap o rings. They show two photos and what to look for. Get it wrong and the aftercooler will leak feeding your engine saltwater. And study the instructions on their site.

Photos below.

Thanks clectric. seaboard throws both size rings I the rebuild kit. I'll use their diagram to ensure I am using th correct o rings if I get that far.

bligh · May 5, 2014

Update from my weekend on the boat. Here is what I started with on Saturday. We arrived Sat am and I got my boy all set up with his life jacket and plenty of fishing gear. I was then able to get to work.

bligh · May 5, 2014

Here is the engine with the aftercooler completely removed and some w/pictures of the intake side of the aftercooler and the exterior of the aftercooler core after I gently removed it with a hammer. Also note the plastic bin with the impeller parts and other debris from the intake side of the aftercooler. The long grey thing that looks like a lead weight is actually the zinc that had broken off inside the housing.

bligh · May 5, 2014

Here is the inside of the existing oil cooler! OH NO! BAD, BAD, PO!

bligh · May 5, 2014

Here is the new oil cooler from seaboard marine next to the old one. And a picture of the new one installed with new hoses, of course.

bligh · May 5, 2014

I also installed a new raw water hose from the seacock to the raw water strainer and a new hose from the strainer to the raw water pump. I cheated and used a little lithium grease on the hoses to help them slide on. I also installed a new raw water impeller and cover plate. I wont know if they are water tight till i button everything else back up. I also need a few more hose clamps as some of them broke as I was removing them.

bligh · May 5, 2014

I brought the whole aftercooler home with me to work on. I'm going to clean the air side with brake cleaner, but I'm debating on how and if I'm going to treat the raw water side of the after cooler after I ream it with a 3/16" brass rod. I saw somewhere here that a TFer used rifle cleaning brushes. That sounds like a good idea when attached to a cordless drill. I was also thinking about setting up a pump and cycling vinegar through it. Advice welcome...

twistedtree · May 5, 2014

I just want to reiterate how smart I think you are to go through all this now. That's how to ensure trouble-free boating.

RT Firefly · May 5, 2014

Greetings,
Mr. b. I like your style.

It's official. I'm a trawler owner.

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