Amazing Polish

While getting my new boat for spring, ie. waxing, in a dirt-slip a boat neighbor stopped by and told me he hasn't waxed his boat in four years. I glanced over his shoulder and the hull had a high-gloss shine. So, of course, I had to ask what magic is this? "Poli Glow" he says. Three years ago he applied 4 coats on his 32' Carver cruiser and until now never touched it. He is applying a single coat now. The four coats took about a half hour (after prepping). Prepping involved removing all wax and making sure the paint is uniform (no black streaks, etc. as any color differences will be sealed under the polish). The four coats used only one quart to complete. He said nothing sticks to it. When anchored on the Chesapeake he at times will wipe the waterline with his hand and the scum just falls off. It's too late for me to use on the hull but I'm considering it for topsides except for non-skid areas.
Here's a link to the site - also available on Amazon. The starter kit is $67.95.

PoliGlow - An End to Boat Wax 800-206-3305

If you've used it and had poor or similar results please let me know...


Paul

Looks great until it turns yellow and peels off in strips.

Took me a looooong time to remove the stuff the PO applied and neglected.

It does look fantastic when applied and I suppose if it is well maintained. But I'm still a skeptic.

Most web-lore indicates it is acrylic, like Mop-n-glo.

I'm sure there will be lots of opinions on products and techniques on this topic. I gave this a try this year with good results. The video covers aircraft, but they have a yacht product as well. I don't know what the difference is.

It certainly couldn't be easier.

JetShine Video.mp4 - YouTube

http://www.permanonusa.com/

Greetings,
Ahhhh.....I thought this was going to be about eastern Europeans...

I've used both products. The poliglow look good at first, but did turn yellow and was difficult to remove. I'm much happier with the permanon. I still use old fashion wax on the hull, but use permanon on the house and flying bridge. I also use the stuff on my teak, which seems to be holding up much better than before I started using permanon. To date, I have not found permanon to yellow or otherwise negatively affect the areas that I have treated. I also find it true that after being coated with permanon that dirt and bird bombs are easily removed, often with just a hose and water.

I've used a similar product called Vertglas for many years, it can make the most chalky glass look like new (wet look) with almost no effort. In our northern climate it would last 3-4 years without needing a fresh coat although the manufacturer recommends an annual topcoat. It did start to yellow slightly after 4 years but is easily removed with ammonia. Acidic cleaners are fine but alkaline cleaners will damage it. I am not sure how it would work on chalky paint versus fibreglass.

Scout said:

I've used both products. The poliglow look good at first, but did turn yellow and was difficult to remove...

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Do you recall how long the Poli Glow lasted before yellowing? And how many coats were applied?

Capt Kangeroo said:

I've used a similar product called Vertglas for many years, it can make the most chalky glass look like new (wet look) with almost no effort. In our northern climate it would last 3-4 years without needing a fresh coat although the manufacturer recommends an annual topcoat. It did start to yellow slightly after 4 years but is easily removed with ammonia. Acidic cleaners are fine but alkaline cleaners will damage it. I am not sure how it would work on chalky paint versus fibreglass.

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You didn't have to remove the oxidation?

Scout said:

I've used both products. I also use the stuff on my teak, which seems to be holding up much better than before I started using permanon.

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Finished or unfinished teak? I use it full strength on varnished teak for uv protection. I've tried to keep it off the unfinished deck teak.

Pcoch, when I used poliglow it started to yellow after the first season. I applied two coats. It looked great for a time, but then slowly started to yellow, expecially on those surfaces more exposed to the sun.

Captrigney, I only use permanon on finished teak. The only thing I use on my unfinished teak is boracol.

Check out other boat forums and lists and you will read many Poli-Glo horror stories, a few of which I have seen first hand. We soon settled on Rejex, no more ICW mustache, just wash off with water and if need be a chamois mop or very soft brush. I refreshed it about every two years, or 5,000+ miles of salt and tannic water use. I am sure having a painted, not gelcoat hull contributed to the longevity. One coat, follow directions carefully. Calling these products "polish" is a bit inaccurate, they are sealers of already clean and shiny surfaces. Zaino, Starbright PTEF, AwlCare a few others with good reps.

Here's our boat, in Westport Harbor, MA, after having been Rejex'd in Baltimore, and down to the Keys and up again. You could easily see your face from a couple feet away.

Does Rejex affect future paint jobs like people often say about silicon caulking????

Nope. Here is a link, they are pretty honest about what it works for and what it doesn't, and the need to apply it right. I'd probably give them a call before applying to old gel coat; they warn against porous or highly oxidized surfaces.

RejeX

PCoch said:

You didn't have to remove the oxidation?

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No, in fact Vertglas recommends you don't other than to clean it really well. It's not really a polish, it's a clear coating applied with a sponge brush which gives a wet look to even severely chalked glass. It's applied by brushing it on. It takes several coats but is ridiculously easy to apply & you don't have to worry about getting it on the chrome or other stuff. I don't know how well it would stand up in southern climates but even if you had to apply it every year it beats painting.

I googled for their web site to post here but only found one using the name to sell an alternative product. I did see several suppliers though including West & Lovette.

On a slightly different tangent,... I have recently discovered a fantastic window glass polish.
SPOT X. It is actually is a powder abrasive which is just slightly less hard than glass.

Just add a touch of water to make a paste and it will polish off salt water buildup or calcium buildup from glass like nothing else. Its made from a certain type of crushed sea shell; no chemicals to worry about.

There aren't many wonder products that really impress me, but this is one.
But don't use it on softer material though as it will leave scratches.

Auscan, there was a window cleaning powder sold in Australia called "Bon Ami". The pack had a pic of a just hatched chicken with the words "Hasn`t Scratched Yet". Rinsing the residue was messy, but nothing cleaned glass as well, especially if you got some silicone from carwash detergent on the car windscreen. Sounds similar, I`ll watch for it.

Greetings,
Anybody try Barkeepers Friend on glass?

I buy this at Ace Hardware:


It's like the old time Glass Wax. Wipe it on let it dry, and wipe it off.

As for Poli Glo and similar products, these usually are a problem after a few months. Something you might use on a boat to sell it.

Practical Sailor did a series of tests that included Poli-Glow, they rated it highly.

It was the top performer on the long term (3 year) test. No issues with yellowing or flaking and they did not renew it yearly as instructed.

Lot of myths floating around the interweb, RV'ers use it and really like the easy and lasting shine.

The yellowing was years ago and it now has a reformulated UV package not found in other acrylic products.

Greetings,
Flitz always brings a smile to my face. I can imagine a German momma with a lisp calling her son in for dinner...Flitz, Flitz komm doch bitte mal heirer...

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Flitz always brings a smile to my face. I can imagine a German momma with a lisp calling her son in for dinner...Flitz, Flitz komm doch bitte mal heirer...

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You're a doofus!!


HOLLYWOOD

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Ahhhh.....I thought this was going to be about eastern Europeans...

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:lol:

Thank you, Mr. Firefly! It is rare that I actually guffaw whilst reading this forum.

SCOTTEDAVIS said:

Practical Sailor did a series of tests that included Poli-Glow, they rated it highly.

It was the top performer on the long term (3 year) test. No issues with yellowing or flaking and they did not renew it yearly as instructed.

Lot of myths floating around the interweb, RV'ers use it and really like the easy and lasting shine.

The yellowing was years ago and it now has a reformulated UV package not found in other acrylic products.

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I've read the same. I'm moving ahead with it on the superstructure this year waiting for the next haul to do the hull since I've already waxed it.
Thanks to all for input - both informative and hilarious!
I don't know vat I vas sinking!

The hull on this old girl is in very good shape, but of course being new to me I must make it better. Soon I will start in on it, beginning with a light polish with Finesse-it II - I don't think it needs a more intense compounding. Then I will finish with one of the acrylic coatings discussed above. Thank goodness I don't have to deal with chalking.

Then paint the deck!

Question - the small swim platform was made by the PO, seemingly of cedar. Quite faded now. I would like to stain and protect it - any suggestions? Of course don't want it to be too slippy!

Sunset said:

The hull on this old girl is in very good shape, but of course being new to me I must make it better. Soon I will start in on it, beginning with a light polish with Finesse-it II - I don't think it needs a more intense compounding. Then I will finish with one of the acrylic coatings discussed above. Thank goodness I don't have to deal with chalking.

Then paint the deck!

Question - the small swim platform was made by the PO, seemingly of cedar. Quite faded now. I would like to stain and protect it - any suggestions? Of course don't want it to be too slippy!

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Be careful of applying an acrylic over anything else protecting the hull. What I've read indicates that the yellowing everyone complains about is caused by not having a "virgin" surface before applying the acrylic.

I'm not familiar with cedar protection, hopefully someone else will chime in...

Paul

My though is, if Poli-Glow or any of these other "miracle products" did what they claim to do, waxes and other similar polishes as well as professional detailers would be a thing of the past. So far, they are not.

rwidman said:

My though is, if Poli-Glow or any of these other "miracle products" did what they claim to do, waxes and other similar polishes as well as professional detailers would be a thing of the past. So far, they are not.

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Or.... detailers don't like them as they are so easy and last so long that they would be very short of work if widely used, just another thought.




Some fairly extensive tests have been done with them by reputable publications say you may be wrong.

All I can comment on is what I have seen first hand over the past few years and what has been told me by others I trust with direct experience. I haven't seen any RV's that sit in and travel through salt water, nor have the exposure to sun and elements that most boats do. I stopped paying much attention to Practical Sailor about 4 years ago; some of their test routines on electronics were simply not valid, among other things. Their decreasing number of publications and circulation speaks to that. I'd rather trust real world cruisers and serious salt water fisherman and my own experience. Of course if you are on a fresh water lake and/or in a covered slip and/or don't get away from the dock much, you have different requirements, and that's OK.

Detailers do like Rejex and its cohorts because it applies well, the boat looks good and the owner is not griping for a make-good every few months. And yes, they have impacted traditional wax sales.