What type of fuel additive is recommended for extremely high heat conditions? We use very high sulfur content fuels and the temperature (at the fuel tank) while the boat is stored usually exceeds 130 degrees during the hot summer months. The humidity is high also so we keep the tank topped off after use.
Diesel Fuel Additive for Extreme Heat
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RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. m. "...usually exceeds 130 degrees..." Holy Crap that's hot!
Mr. m. "...usually exceeds 130 degrees..." Holy Crap that's hot!
Ski in NC
Technical Guru
Some sort of stabilizer and a biocide should take care of it.
Note that high sulfur fuel forms acids in lube oil, and also more soot. Modern diesel oils are set up for low sulfur. You may need shorter oil change intervals, do oil analyses, or use a lube designed for high sulfur.
Note that high sulfur fuel forms acids in lube oil, and also more soot. Modern diesel oils are set up for low sulfur. You may need shorter oil change intervals, do oil analyses, or use a lube designed for high sulfur.
Those temperatures will not affect your fuel in any way. Watch for condensation which you seem to have mitigated by topping off tanks. Biocide will do nothing but put a hole in your wallet unless there is already a problem with the bug. If you suspect some water then drain it iff possible or add some ethanol.
psneeld
Guru
Are you recommending adding ethanol to diesel fuel?
FF
Guru
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The best way to get rid of water is a proper fuel tank with a sump that can drain off the crud and water before vessel operation.
Second best is oversized filters that can be changed on the fly , and are located outside the engine room .
Second best is oversized filters that can be changed on the fly , and are located outside the engine room .
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I would have thought the air in Qatar would be fairly dry most of the time, and even if not, the temps are such condensation should be minimal. Here in Queensland, which is humid, and cools down more at night, I still don't have any trouble with growth or condensation, and I never have full tanks, and yet hardly ever get even a teaspoonful of water in my separator filter. However my tanks do drain from the bottom, not via a pickup some distance off the bottom. So in a way I'm removing any crud as soon as it forms. That said, it is minimal as my filters last years - literally. I think you are worrying unnecessarily, but as usual, best thing is ask the locals, even if your Arabic is basic, most who would own a boat there would speak English.
Yes, if any water present cannot be drained and the amount is minimal then it is OK to add ethanol. Relying on filters to remove it won't get the water below the pick up and you will still get the bug.
psneeld
Guru
I have been back and forth with the use of alcohol in diesel....
Seems like half the world will tell you it's going to damage your diesl in a variety of ways and the other half of the world say crap and please tell me just how it will happen.
I'm sure at some concentration of water and alcohol it becomes an issue...but haven't seen any guidance what that level is.
I used to be in the school of thought that it was a bad thing but since moving to the tropics where condensation and contaminated fuel is a real issue and the additional of ethanol is the usual way to deal with it I have changed my stance. My business, amongst other things, overhauls injectors and I have never seen any damage that could be attributed to using ethanol.
Nomad Willy
Guru
I remove water ect in my fuel w an oil changing pump, hose and an easily bendable copper tube. I bend the copper tube so when it's inserted in the small hole in the top of the tank it goes to the lowest point in the tank. I then pump out a quart or so of fuel and examine it for water and crud.
Every time I do this I think I get 100% of the water out. It's a bit of an effort though so I don't do it as often as I should but like Peter I rarely get any water or crud in my samples. And if the bottom of your fuel tanks are level the water will be in one end w full tanks and the other w empty tanks.
When I flew UL aircraft we were worried about water too but it never was a problem.
Like your new avatar Peter. Can see your boat better.
Every time I do this I think I get 100% of the water out. It's a bit of an effort though so I don't do it as often as I should but like Peter I rarely get any water or crud in my samples. And if the bottom of your fuel tanks are level the water will be in one end w full tanks and the other w empty tanks.
When I flew UL aircraft we were worried about water too but it never was a problem.
Like your new avatar Peter. Can see your boat better.
No it's actually quite humid here since we're surrounded three sides by the Persian Gulf. Right now it's not too hot, between 80's to 100F, but the humidity is in the 80%'s.
All the recreational boats here run outboards, very few have diesels. The construction machinery is all diesel of course but those guys are no help because they don't need to be meticulous. I need to be ultra-paranoid about my fuel though because I cruise with my family onboard, my diving is 40-100km offshore, it's very lonely out there, the Coast Guard have their own agenda (that's a euphemism for "worthless"). Out in the shipping channels and oil fields I could call upon those resources in an emergency, but that would cause a lot of trouble with the authorities unless it were a true mayday.
Anyway, I appreciate the feedback from everyone. I'll source some stabilizer/biocide, will keep the tank always topped off and will build a small pump with a pickup tube like 'manyboats' mentioned.
High sulfur content is a natural deterrent to microbial/bacteria growth. Microbial growth needs water to exist.
sunchaser
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You'll not hear this from the magic potion sellers.
As Eric and others say, use a dip tube to check for water. How often are you changing out filters? Read about filtering on boatdiesel.com where a 3 stage setup - 30u, 10u and on engine is recommended and conforms with current rigorous common rail engine requirements. With a filter setup like this and no water in tanks you'll sleep well.
Nomad Willy
Guru
If you have a siphon tube you may (w good filtration) have less contaminants in your fuel fed to the engine but you will always have water in the bottom of the tank unless you drain it w a perfectly placed drain that drains out of the bottom of the tank in the lowest place. Otherwise it will be there always unless you remove it in some way.
Adding Soltron to diesel fuel will not hurt, as 99.5% of the product is already in the diesel fuel. It is then - and with no surprise - we read:
"Soltron™ is pure fuel and will not hurt any engine if overdosed."
The best solution to avoiding "diesel bug" is preventative maintenance.
"Soltron™ is pure fuel and will not hurt any engine if overdosed."
The best solution to avoiding "diesel bug" is preventative maintenance.
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Once again, snake oil.
Soltron enzymes when added to fuel make wide range of molecular transformations to solve many perennial problems associated with fossil fuel combustion. Like striping a log into sticks for easy firing, enzymes break heavy hydrocarbon molecules and molecular formations into more combustible forms. This makes fuel combustion in engines more fuller and faster generating extra smooth power with a least damage to engines as well as for the environment. The heights of combustion thus Soltron can reach with enzyme catalysis is unmatched and unprecedented in the history of fuel treatment
Soltron enzymes when added to fuel make wide range of molecular transformations to solve many perennial problems associated with fossil fuel combustion. Like striping a log into sticks for easy firing, enzymes break heavy hydrocarbon molecules and molecular formations into more combustible forms. This makes fuel combustion in engines more fuller and faster generating extra smooth power with a least damage to engines as well as for the environment. The heights of combustion thus Soltron can reach with enzyme catalysis is unmatched and unprecedented in the history of fuel treatment
psneeld
Guru
My experience with Soltron: 
Purchased twin screw gas powered boat with extremely gunked up, considerable water at bottom of tanks, and dirty brown colored fuel; in easily accessible spin on filters (same size/look as big oil filter) for each 100 gal tank. Drained filters into clear glass jar during 3 consecutive filter checks... each at approx 15 hour use intervals. Installed new filters each time. Gas in glass jar looked just as brown colored dirty with water at bottom of jar each of the 3 times. I then began putting very heavy doses of Soltron (1 ounce per 10 gal gas) into each tank that was carrying less than 1/2 capacity. Continued per 15 hour use with fuel filter content check and filter replacement schedule. Within 2 more filter replacements I noticed a big difference in gas inside glass jar. Within 4 filter replacements the gas had gone clear and no water in bottom. Continuing to check in same schedule and manner it became clear that the gasoline in both tanks had become clear of color, I no longer saw debris crap floating in gas and there was no longer any water. Now I check filters in 50 hr schedules and after peering at gasoline in my glass jar I pour the completely clear gas back into filter and reinstall it. Every second check (100 hrs use time) I install new filter – not because filter is full of crap (it’s still clean) but rather because I don’t trust rubber seal for more than two compressions during tightening onto base.
We all have our different reasons for doing different things. I tend to rely on practicable tested knowledge, i.e. especially my own experiences – not manufacturer stats, or no stats, or others telling me that just ain't possible! BTW: Since my gas cleared I use Soltron at about 2X recommended amounts. Cost is minimal for the clean gasoline I constantly have in my boat... even after some long durations of no run. For years I’ve had no problems with my boat’s gas – NONE!
This year will be a good check up on my gasoline’s condition. Our 90 yr Matriarch has needed close care and we have spent little time aboard. Last visit was end January, next planned for end April - we hope??? On Jan visit I did gas filter check and replace. Gasoline was completely clear with no water!
I understand from others that Soltron works as well in diesel fuel.
Different strokes for different folks... For me, Soltron has before and continues to work wonders!
Duration of my own first hand experience with any item is the only proof about any item I can fully rely upon! For those who have not experienced an item to proclame said item is no good... well... that ain't too bright - now is it?!?!
Happy Fuel Maintenance Daze! - Art
Purchased twin screw gas powered boat with extremely gunked up, considerable water at bottom of tanks, and dirty brown colored fuel; in easily accessible spin on filters (same size/look as big oil filter) for each 100 gal tank. Drained filters into clear glass jar during 3 consecutive filter checks... each at approx 15 hour use intervals. Installed new filters each time. Gas in glass jar looked just as brown colored dirty with water at bottom of jar each of the 3 times. I then began putting very heavy doses of Soltron (1 ounce per 10 gal gas) into each tank that was carrying less than 1/2 capacity. Continued per 15 hour use with fuel filter content check and filter replacement schedule. Within 2 more filter replacements I noticed a big difference in gas inside glass jar. Within 4 filter replacements the gas had gone clear and no water in bottom. Continuing to check in same schedule and manner it became clear that the gasoline in both tanks had become clear of color, I no longer saw debris crap floating in gas and there was no longer any water. Now I check filters in 50 hr schedules and after peering at gasoline in my glass jar I pour the completely clear gas back into filter and reinstall it. Every second check (100 hrs use time) I install new filter – not because filter is full of crap (it’s still clean) but rather because I don’t trust rubber seal for more than two compressions during tightening onto base.
We all have our different reasons for doing different things. I tend to rely on practicable tested knowledge, i.e. especially my own experiences – not manufacturer stats, or no stats, or others telling me that just ain't possible! BTW: Since my gas cleared I use Soltron at about 2X recommended amounts. Cost is minimal for the clean gasoline I constantly have in my boat... even after some long durations of no run. For years I’ve had no problems with my boat’s gas – NONE!
This year will be a good check up on my gasoline’s condition. Our 90 yr Matriarch has needed close care and we have spent little time aboard. Last visit was end January, next planned for end April - we hope??? On Jan visit I did gas filter check and replace. Gasoline was completely clear with no water!
I understand from others that Soltron works as well in diesel fuel.
Different strokes for different folks... For me, Soltron has before and continues to work wonders!
Duration of my own first hand experience with any item is the only proof about any item I can fully rely upon! For those who have not experienced an item to proclame said item is no good... well... that ain't too bright - now is it?!?!
Happy Fuel Maintenance Daze! - Art
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psneeld
Guru
Adding methanol to Diesel.....reference page 95
http://ec.europa.eu/energy/renewables/biofuels/doc/standard/lot3b.pdf
http://ec.europa.eu/energy/renewables/biofuels/doc/standard/lot3b.pdf
Conclusions
Modern engine technology sets tight requirements for cleanliness and general performance of
motor fuels. Today, the quality of diesel fuel is very high in Europe, and the requirements are
getting even tighter. Adding ethanol into diesel worsen major part of the fuel properties. Additives
are needed firstly to keep diesel/ethanol as a blend, and secondly to bring critical fuel properties
like cetane number and lubricity even to minimum acceptance level. However, the major problem
of diesel/ethanol blends is safety risk due to flash point and flammability limits. The increased risk
to engines, vehicles and fuel distribution facilities remain, with safety concerns for fuel handling,
storage and use, despite of any possible preventive actions taken with diesel/ethanol blends.motor fuels. Today, the quality of diesel fuel is very high in Europe, and the requirements are
getting even tighter. Adding ethanol into diesel worsen major part of the fuel properties. Additives
are needed firstly to keep diesel/ethanol as a blend, and secondly to bring critical fuel properties
like cetane number and lubricity even to minimum acceptance level. However, the major problem
of diesel/ethanol blends is safety risk due to flash point and flammability limits. The increased risk
to engines, vehicles and fuel distribution facilities remain, with safety concerns for fuel handling,
psneeld
Guru
One guy uses an additive and swears by it because his engine purrrrrs like a kitten forever...
Another guy never uses an additive and swears by it because HIS engine TOO purrrrs like a kitty forever.....
There are reasons to use an additive...like lubricity, anti-gelling, etc...etc....for any of those reasons...yep ...probably should use one....
To make my engine work better, last longer, sound smoother, etc.....have ever seen enough independent studies that actually confirm any of the "feel good" reasons to use an additive..
Another guy never uses an additive and swears by it because HIS engine TOO purrrrs like a kitty forever.....
There are reasons to use an additive...like lubricity, anti-gelling, etc...etc....for any of those reasons...yep ...probably should use one....
To make my engine work better, last longer, sound smoother, etc.....have ever seen enough independent studies that actually confirm any of the "feel good" reasons to use an additive..
All I can report are my experiences with Soltron after six years of use. It quickly cleaned the gasoline in my boat's tanks and is keeping it that way. I'm very pleased with my results from using Soltron! I don't plan to stop using it or to switch to another fuel stabilizer.
kulas44
Guru
Plain old gasoline is as good as any diesel fuel additive. E85 gas has enough alcohol in it to take care of most condensation problems. About a gallon in 100 gallons of diesel is a good start, you wont even notice the difference. From experience, 10% is a little to much gasoline, but still works and will seriously clean your entire fuel system including injectors. Snake oil is good to, just WAY more expensive and not any better. Please, unless you have actuall evidence, personally, that gasoline in small amounts will harm a diesel engine, then dont even go there. Bus companies have done it for years. The military multi fuel engine used in lots of trucks was just a Continental Diesel (White Co.) that could run on any petroleum fuel. The instructions on the fuel tank said when using gasoline mix an appropriate amount of any type of oil or diesel/kerosine.
Ski in NC
Technical Guru
Don't add gasoline to diesel fuel. The vapor pressure of the gas remains as it would at 100% and thus the fumes are just as explosive. You just negated the safety benefits of diesel power. Not a good idea on a boat.
Regarding ethanol: It will tend to emulsify the water into solution, and then engine will burn the mix. Probably little harm in that to the engine. The problem is you do not know the amount of water in the tank, and a large amount of emulisified mix tends to wet the secondary filter element, and most are designed as "water block". Once saturated, fuel flow stops and so does the engine.
One customer added ethanol and after clogging filters hired me to drain the tanks. I got like 600gal of diesel and after six months in my shop tank, the water finally separated and I got to burn the fuel!!!
Best thing is to do a low point drain on your tanks. Solves all the problems.
Regarding Soltron or whatever additives, unless an independent lab does thorough tests, it is in the "reptilian lipid derivitave compound" category. Results are testable. No independent lab reports, not credible.
To Art, you could have gotten the same results by filter changes: Filters catch crud, and with enough fuel use and filter changes, that cleans your fuel. May have nothing to do with what additive was used. Adding something does not remove gunk. Removing gunk removes gunk.
Regarding ethanol: It will tend to emulsify the water into solution, and then engine will burn the mix. Probably little harm in that to the engine. The problem is you do not know the amount of water in the tank, and a large amount of emulisified mix tends to wet the secondary filter element, and most are designed as "water block". Once saturated, fuel flow stops and so does the engine.
One customer added ethanol and after clogging filters hired me to drain the tanks. I got like 600gal of diesel and after six months in my shop tank, the water finally separated and I got to burn the fuel!!!
Best thing is to do a low point drain on your tanks. Solves all the problems.
Regarding Soltron or whatever additives, unless an independent lab does thorough tests, it is in the "reptilian lipid derivitave compound" category. Results are testable. No independent lab reports, not credible.
To Art, you could have gotten the same results by filter changes: Filters catch crud, and with enough fuel use and filter changes, that cleans your fuel. May have nothing to do with what additive was used. Adding something does not remove gunk. Removing gunk removes gunk.
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psneeld
Guru
Usually the number one issue with diesel that people seem to agree upon is lubricity...most people add something to improve that...gasoline and alcohol definitely DON'T...so once you add either one of those...better think about lubricity.
Granted...you could probably add ANYTHING for one tankfull and get away with it...but the more I hear people say they are adding stuff to diesel...the more I know the less they know.
Granted...you could probably add ANYTHING for one tankfull and get away with it...but the more I hear people say they are adding stuff to diesel...the more I know the less they know.
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