So I would be supplying power to whatever the relay is connected to bypassing any switch or control circuit to whatever the relay is connected to.
Yes??
No, the new one is not eitherWas your prior battery charger equipped with a temperature sensor?
Greetings,
Mr. t. Yes. The relay would no longer be in the circuit. Let me say again...This is NOT the safest way of testing but it might energize an alarm or some such and hopefully not set your boat on fire. Might be best to get the opinion of someone who knows what they're talking about. I'm sorry I brought it up....
You got it.
You are probably right that it has to do with the engines as there are two relays. Are the lights for your engine gauges working? I know it is hard to trace the wires, especially to the load side but how about tracing the switch side (#86). Does it go to your ignition switch? Just a thought.
Do you have trim tabs, just a thought. Dan
Tim, just a thought, but since the Carver was offered with both gas and diesel engines do you think the wiring harness was also set up for gas engines. The relays could be for that.
Many have disconnected pre heaters on Cummins engine starts, maybe the PO or factory did same. On my engines the relays like yours protect all the engine start circuits such as stop solenoid, neutral safety switch, fuel heating grid and two others I can't remember.
Two relays set up side by side like that makes me think of a polarity reversing circuit such as would be used for a reversible hydraulic pump for autoplilot or oil change installation. Would explain why both fuses are blown.
Are the alternators wired wired to the starter and then through the starter cable to battery switch? This is the way the Cats that i previously had were wired...
Is Carver still in business? If so they should be able to tell you.
Are you sure the alternator runs THROUGH the selector switch? My alternator was originally connected directly to the battery via the positive stud on the starter. In other words, it was wired, somewhat, directly to the start battery. I have since wired it directly to the house bank with a nice fat wire. Now, I say that to say this --- The selector switch in OUR breaker panel only selects only what SOURCE the DC side of the panel is powered (house, start, both, off) and doesn't direct charging at all. Certainly, yours is different, but I offer it up just to show you how it MIGHT be wired.
(If you look at the pics of my project above, all relays are wired to a positive source. The way relays work, as I am sure you know, is so that small voltage switch can toggle a much larger switch. The wires from your selector switch are probably feed the larger switch side and was likely just a convenient (nearby) power source. That's my theory anyway. It REALLY sounds like you just need to trace wires to know for sure.)
TimJet, not sure if this one has been mentioned. On my single I have to push down on my ignition switch for glow plug activation and then turn to start. Both go through relays the same as you are showing. You say your engines are running normally but are your glow plugs actually working?? Just a thought.
The wires from your selector switch are probably feed the larger switch side
The circuit feeding the coil must be protected as well.The fused wires that come from your battery selector switch, probably are feeding the high-current side of the relay...
(Does that help?)
I'm assuming gasoline engines.I contacted Carver and they solved the mystery. The relays start the bilge blowers when the ignition switch is turned on. There are 2 blowers hence 2 relays. There is a manually operated blower switch on the helm that I always turn on before I start the engines and why I didn't suspect the blowers. A nice feature I guess but redundant since I'm able to remember to turn them on manually.
Turning them on manually perhaps blew the fuses.
This feature is installed on diesel versions only.
If that's the case they would have to blow air into the engine room, not out of it as with a gasoline engine.It's a diesel boat (Cummins Engines - in his signature) and I've heard some diesel engine manufactures won't approve new boat installs if there's not enough air volume in the engine room and/or enough open air vents so they require the engine room to be power ventilated.
The blowers could be rigged either way to satisfy requirements...I don't know about his setup...but I DID know he had diesels because I pay close attention to what I read....in fact I pay CLOSE attention In life in general.
If they come on when the ignition switch is turned on...good chance they DO run all the time the engines are on...thus the reason why the manufacturer used them in the first place...
Blowers on diesel boats are really often just to make sure you have air turnover so the air in the engine room contains cool enough air for the diesels to retain optimum performance.
Whether they suck or blow doesn't matter as long as the engine is happy...but that's not my area of expertise....