Joining Chain Links

I have 160 ft of 3/8" chain and would like to add another 100'.

The chain connector links available at the local store seem a little underwhelming to me. Just wondering if anyone has added to their existing chain, or is the considered opinion to buy new from scratch, though the existing chain looks in pretty reasonable shape.

FWIW, I have been thinking of getting a local shop to weld the chain links.

Any advise appreciated.

I would not just cut a link and then butt weld it back together, it's just not strong enough. Proof coil lap links, like shown in the link attached, are available at most industrial suppliers though that can be welded and do a good job. Make sure the size matches your chain if going through a windlass. Good quality required.

http://www.1st-chainsupply.com/images/Attachments/laplinks.jpg

I believe Al had added extra chain to his rode with one of those links shown above and has good luck, I'm sure he'll chime in.

I used a master link some times called a connecting link, it consisted of two matching link half's with pins that you pean with a hammer sort of like a rivet, one on each side of the links to make it solid. Never had one fail, should be available where ever chain is sold.

Here's a Crosby Missing Link like I used...



...and here's a related thread from the past.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s42/bad-chain-link-10371.html#post159820

To this day, it still looks great. I still keep the spare just in case, but so far, so good through three years and countless anchorings.

Crosby definitely makes the best chain hardware. Buy Chinese at your peril.

Buy Chinese at your peril.

I thought the Chinese links were so the boat could be sold to the insurer?

For lack of knowing what is "Peening"

jclays said:

For lack of knowing what is "Peening"

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Hitting the protruding pins with a ballpein hammer until they fatten or swell enough that the pin is fixed in position. I will also add to this conversation another way to join chain particularly if windless is chain rope type. You got it ;short piece of anchor line spliced to both pieces of chain.

"...short piece of anchor line spliced to both pieces of chain."
Never heard of that. Pretty clever.

The links such as Flywright suggested are stronger than the lap links.

The problem is that they are bigger than the G4 or BBB chain usually used with a windlass. They are also significantly weaker than the same size G4 chain. They are literally the weak link. They do match the strength of BBB pretty well.

Then the question becomes, does it matter? Some of you remember Chuck on Beach House. When he was last in Miami he bought some chain and a link from me. The chain was G4 so I asked him about the weak, oversize link he used to join his chain.

He said the one big link passed over his windlass with no problem and the chain was really stronger than it needed to be. That was more than a year ago and so far so good.

RE; short double splice line to two pieces of chain. I used this set up for a few years. I would have to monitor the chain rope splices as I pulled rode up to make sure they mated well with windless not much different than single chain rode splice except there are two.

Hammerlock link.Check it out.Used on commercial boats for eons.Might not be in local hardware store but they are around.

Iceberg said:

Hammerlock link.Check it out.Used on commercial boats for eons.Might not be in local hardware store but they are around.

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That is a good suggestion. But not sure how well, if at all, a hammerlock link would pass through a wildcat.

Am planning on regalvanizing my chain roads while the boat is in the yard this summer. Was thinking about combining the 2 roads and buying a new one. Any reason not to cut one link on the original weld, twist open to insert the other link, twist closed and TIG weld, then have the road galvanized?

Any reason not to regalvanize an original Bruce anchor while I'm at it?

Ted

O C Diver said:

Any reason not to regalvanize an original Bruce anchor while I'm at it?

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You mean other than the fact it's a Bruce?

OC-re-galvanized or not, it must be the wrong anchor!

Not to hijack Andy's thread but can anyone advise how to distinguish BBB from G4 ? Are both sizes windlass specific or can some windlass's accept both?

CK, The chain will be marked with G4 stamped into the links. I think BBB is also marked. The chain wildcats on your windlass will be made to fit a particular size chain so you need to check with the manufacturer. G4 and BBB are very close in size so I think some wild cats will accept either.
You can check chain sizes here ACCO Windlass Chains On Peerless Industrial Group

Ted, you said the A word you bad boy.

Capt.Bill11 said:

You mean other than the fact it's a Bruce?

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What's wrong with a Bruce? It's one of the more desired anchor's around here. A used original fetches a steep price.

jclays said:

what's wrong with a bruce? It's one of the more desired anchor's around here. A used original fetches a steep price.

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Capt.Bill11 said:

You mean other than the fact it's a Bruce?

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Have a double anchor setup with Bruce and a CQR. Will likely dump the CQR; Make Bruce #2 and a Rocna #1. My question was about effecting the temper of the steel in an anchor if you regalvanize it.

Ted

Ted I've heard that re-galvanizing hardened chain like G4 will weaken it a little. That makes sense to me as it would have to get pretty hot in a bath of molten zinc.

I would be more worried about your plan to cut, twist and re-weld a link. The twisting will work harden it and possibly induce small cracks.

What kind of chain do you have?

HopCar said:

Ted I've heard that re-galvanizing hardened chain like G4 will weaken it a little. That makes sense to me as it would have to get pretty hot in a bath of molten zinc.

I would be more worried about your plan to cut, twist and re-weld a link. The twisting will work harden it and possibly induce small cracks.

What kind of chain do you have?

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Good point but I wonder if really true about regalvanizing.

I would think the original chain would have t be hardened/annealed before hot dip galvanizing the first time...so I'm not sure a second time would have any affect beyond the first.

The melting point for steel is up over 2500 degrees and zinc is below 800.

Interesting...a quick check didn't reveal the answer but maybe someone has the background or link (no pun)....

From what I've read, regalvanizing chain is commonly done. The process requires a tumbling basket to keep the chain from sticking together. Would assume if there was the possibility of the chain loosing significant strength, the galvanizer wouldn't do chain for liability reasons.

Hopcar: I don't know which type of 3/8 chain I have. Haven't gotten to that project yet.

Ted

A minimum of 1400-1500 degrees Fahrenheit is required to anneal steel if it is high carbon steel(1650 for low carbon steel). With a melting point of just under 790 degrees hot dip galvanizing will have no ill side effects.

CPseudonym said:

A minimum of 1400-1500 degrees Fahrenheit is required to anneal steel if it is high carbon steel(1650 for low carbon steel). With a melting point of just under 790 degrees hot dip galvanizing will have no ill side effects.

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Thanks, that's what I was looking for!

Ted