What size anchor line is this ?

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Pack Mule, can you PM all responders a 1ft length of line, and we`ll put this to bed.
 
Pack Mule, can you PM all responders a 1ft length of line, and we`ll put this to bed.

Wait a minute Bruce.

Pack Mule, I'll be needing a 150' piece as I've just learned in another thread am doomed to lose my entire rode if I keep anchoring without a trip line. :)
 
It's been said many times but one more won't hurt.


Get the BIGGEST cleat you can fit. If you go small you will be sorry. If you can FIT a 14" do it.
 
It occurs to me that most docks and marinas don't have multiple sizes of cleats available to fit different sized lines that might be used with different boats. If the cleat is large enough (within reason), any normal line size will work.

As for the difference between 5/8" and 3/4", the line could vary that much just by being under tension.
 
But the OP had it next to a ruler, clearly not under tension.
The big unknown is what was the temperature while the line was being measured.
 
IMO, which doesn't normally count for much, the rounded inside edge of a cleat, helps maintain the round shape of a correctly sized rope. A flattened rope loses a lot of it's strength as not all the fibers are in tension (which is why most knots reduce a ropes strength half or more). This is fairly important to sailors who use the smallest possible line size, for a given load and all their lines are sized to the rest of their hardware. Does it really matter to us 90% of the time, nah.

So that's my WAG for today.
 
This is fairly important to sailors who use the smallest possible line size, for a given load and all their lines are sized to the rest of their hardware. Does it really matter to us 90% of the time, nah.

Most sailor use their hands to pull on the lines , so line size is figured on what is comfortable in the hand and will still fit the sheet winch .Also sized to take the MAX load fro overpowering by being to lazy to change sails or reef.

Perhaps on a 12 ft sail boat in competition 1/4 in line might be used.

The nicest line I have ever had the pleasure of handling was LINEN , where a wet 3/4 line would lay over your hand like a kiss.
 
:lol:

What is that, Bruce, computer code? We have no idea what ypu're talking about. Can you translate to Exclusive USA Units of Measure? (EUSAUM) :D

Back to the OP's question, looks like a 3/4 US inch to me. But I like HopCar's answer a whole lot better.

Parks, is that wet weight or dry weight? If wet weight, salt water or fresh? What would that weight be in all other parts of the world? :socool:

Seriously, I like that 10 ft to a lb for 5/8. Good info!

In Kilos?:lol:
 
IMO as long as the line can be tied or cleated so the line won't come off due to the smallness of the cleat it's big enough. And consideration should be given to what the largest line that would normally be used on the cleat.

Not considering cost I like a cleat that is over sized (not overly so) but made of aluminum so as not to add unnecessary weight. And of the 4 bolt type so a line w an eye can be passed through the hole in the center and looped around the ends.

PM,
I haven't got my 1' of line yet.
 
Is this 5/8" or 3/4" anchor line .


I agree with taking it to a chandlery. Or, locate a shop that makes and sells rigging gear (sail boat and/or crane lifting slings). Rigging shops typically sell lots of rope of all varieties. With so many new fibers being introduced it could be very hard to get anything conclusive from weight per foot and who knows the accuracy of your scale... Just my opinion... When you go to a rigging shop only talk with the shop foreman or shop manager. Sales people in these shops simply cannot be relied on as they typically have no real world experience. I ran a large shop for a few years, my sales people always wanted to believe that knowledge was anointed with a job title. My motto then as now... "sneak up softly and whack em with a big stick."

Plus, rope is manufactured to a spec that has 'oversize when new' tolerance.
 
My cleats appear to be about 8 inches (haven't measured them). They work fine.

img_217120_0_5a1619e8ab54f7b5a2a6dceffd9e149e.jpg


A bollard secures the forward lines.
 
How about using calipers on widest diameter in multiple locations. But, you would need to know the manufactured oversize tolerance. All rope has a larger measured diameter than nominal diameter when new and unused. Take it to the pros for their opinion.
 
OK OK OK evrybody will get their 150 ft section of line when you show up at my varnish party when I finish my teak project and you can call it what you want. I do have about 500' of some smaller line. I could take a picture of it and start this BS all over again. I promise to come up with a better thread next time.
 
Pack Mule; I could take a picture of it and start this BS all over again. I promise to come up with a better thread next time.[/QUOTE said:
I'll start it for you......What time does the 5 o'clock bus stop at the marina?:facepalm:
 
Mark those cleats look too small for the line you're using.

What size is your line? I use 5/8ths for mooring and anchor lines. I have the original cap rail cleats and think they are a bit small. Have a samson post on either side that I think was added by a PO. Don't like them. They are too small for the 5/8ths line also .. even the larger one. Perhaps Willard intended for us to use 1/2" line. If I was putting on a new cap rail like Pack Mule I'd definitely get bigger cleats.

Oh .. I noticed your ragged end mooring line. I have some almost that bad but the un-ragged part is still probably good. Much of your stuff and my stuff looks a bit commercial. As we like it.

Is that your Trinka on cabin top? looks too small. Sure like your hand rails and the windows too. No comment on the fenders.
 
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Eric, that's a builder's photo taken in China prior to shipment. It is the best photo I have of the cleats. ... Those aren't my lines. I use one-half and five-eights inch lines. ... I disposed of the tire fenders soon after receiving the boat. ... The boat on the saloon roof is a racing dinghy built for James DeWitt to his design. This saved him shipping costs. He and the builder helped me commission the Coot upon delivery to California.
 

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