Velvet drive

I have velvet drives. Today while participating in a Mardi Gras boat parade, I lost stbd side transmission. It was hard to shift the binnacle and both helm stations wouldn't go in reverse. Transmission allowed forward gear only. Was able to return to port and upon inspection, fluid is darker than normal and foul smelling.

What next?

Thanks

Blue Heron

Blue

Sounds like it might need a rebuild. If you are not sure maybe have a qualified person look at it. When my gear went I took it out and brought it to the local transmission shop. The local Marine guys started at $1,300. if I brought it in. The trans. shop did a complete job for $750. ammended to $700. when I said I would be right back with cash.

Rob

Date,

Any special things to look for when pulling out? I have a transmission guy... His recommendation was pull it.
What do I need to look out for before unbolting?

Blue,

I'm sure most is evident but

1. Disconnect shift linkage
2. Disconnect wire for non start when in gear.
3. Unbolt trans. cooler.
4. Unbolt trans./shaft flange.
5. My rear engine mounts were on the transmission so I jacked up the engine a bit and blocked it. Unbolt the engine mounts from the stringers first.
6. Block the trans. and unbolt.

At this point I had two guys to help me get it out of the boat. We just lifted it out. If you can use a crane it iseasier but with three guys no problem. Put down two or more layers of cardboard on your path out so you can put it down anywhere to rest or reposition. If you can put it on a dolly so much the better.

Good luck,

Rob

Before yanking it out, disconnect linkage at the transmission and manually check if it is engaging ahead and astern. They are an hydraulic box so shift should not have been hard. May be a semi seized cable has been responsible for incomplete engagement and slight slippage of clutches burning the oil. Maybe salvageable with a freed up cable, oil change and filter clean.

Night cap,

We thought it was a linkage issue also but after engine was shut down and the transnission cooled down we were able to shift it into reverse and got full range of motion again.

It did engage fully in Fwd and would shift back to nuetral. But no reverse. I'll look at the cable first before pulling

This was the first time I have had any issues in the 2 years I have owned it. And I routinly use reverse for backing into slip and maneuver.

One thing you can do for easy removable and installation is to get some long bolts same size as mounting bolts, grind head off. so they end up as studs, then replace the normal bolts with them. this allows you to move the trans aft till the teeth are clear of the drive plate, and then remove the tran. they are also very handy for instalation. This is a chance to inspect and replace drive plate. Hope this is clear as I am not to good at explaining things.

if you do pull the reduction unit, consider replacing the damper plate with the newer polyurethane type... smoother shifting, quieter, longer lasting.

Blue Heron said:

Night cap,

We thought it was a linkage issue also but after engine was shut down and the transnission cooled down we were able to shift it into reverse and got full range of motion again.

It did engage fully in Fwd and would shift back to nuetral. But no reverse. I'll look at the cable first before pulling

This was the first time I have had any issues in the 2 years I have owned it. And I routinly use reverse for backing into slip and maneuver.

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Was this with the engine running or stopped? If the movement is hard with the transmission hot but OK with it cold it could also be a spool valve issue. Always look for the simple, cheap options first.

More info after sitting in the engine room scratching my head.

I can see the ball detent at each setting if F N and R.

before starting it today I saw that:

Binnacle (morse) would shift but it felt like it was being forced and like something was grinding or interfering. In F N R. Engine not running and cold

Engine not running I could shift at the transmission into F N R with Morse disconnected.

Started engine.

Shaft Wont spin when starting up and in nuetral. But can shift it to fwd at the transmission with the morse disconnected. Could NOT shift to reverse.

When shifting back to neutral shaft continues to spin.

Had to shut engine down to get shaft to stop pinning FWD. no reverse.

Fiji, I'm trying to understand what you are describing. I have 6 bolts on the reduction side and intend to leave the flywheel housing on while only taking the Reduction side out.
Can you describe it a little more?

Blue,

I think he means put the long stud in as you remove each bolt so you can slide the gear out on the studs. Good idea!

Rob

As I pull the shaft out and back the nuts off the Reduction gear it looks like I can't add a bolt. They are in the engine side and the nuts are on the reduction side

Got the reduction box off the Bell housing. Gonna be fun getting it out of the engine room and off the boat!

Blue Heron said:

Got the reduction box off the Bell housing. Gonna be fun getting it out of the engine room and off the boat!

View attachment 27673

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I would get some 1" wide cargo strap material and a couple 1" hardwood dowels and rig up a harness. (Make 2, 6' lengths of strap with loops at the ends, maybe)
Wind the straps around it a couple turns, then (using the dowels for handles) have a buddy help bring it up. It would be a lot easier and safer than grappling that unit by hand.
Keep the rig for any other heavy mechanicals that might need boosted out of there someday.
If you're a 200 pound weightlifter, forget I said anything.
Just trying to be helpful.

Bluto said:

I would get some 1" wide cargo strap material and a couple 1" hardwood dowels and rig up a harness. (Make 2, 6' lengths of strap with loops at the ends, maybe)
Wind the straps around it a couple turns, then (using the dowels for handles) have a buddy help bring it up. It would be a lot easier and safer than grappling that unit by hand.
Keep the rig for any other heavy mechanicals that might need boosted out of there someday.
If you're a 200 pound weightlifter, forget I said anything.
Just trying to be helpful.

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Great idea. Thanks!

Good luck getting it out and repaired, keep us updated.

When I was there...flight student could be bough cheap with beer...and they are usually in pretty good shape...who cares about their backs.....

Just don't try Coasties..they'll see though you in a second...

Put two long bolts in the engine mount holes, one on each side and you have handles. An oldtimer tought me that and it makes it a lot easier to work with.

Find some local 15-25yr old dudes to help. They will do anything for 20bucks, and most are remarkably strong.

Thanks guys. Great advice all

We just muscled it out. Straps and 2x6's. and brawn.

Not looking good. Repair shop says the planetary gear is gone. May be cheaper to buy a new transmission. Not sure. I know mine is discontinued. Any one have experience in this? Should I just pay for the rebuild?

This just came up on craigslist, don't know if it's what you need or not.

Borg-Warner velvet drive transmissions

I don't know what you have, but I have a Velvet drive for sale cheap with a 2.57:1 ratio.
You can e mail me at
leonaj99@yahoo.com if you want details.
Jay

My current transmission is a 10-13-000-004. I know they are no longer made.

My gear ratio is 2.0 anyone know what the issues are with different geared transmissions?

The BW's are in two parts: The front section is the clutch and reverse unit. In fwd, the ratio is 1:1. On the back is the reduction unit. The reduction units can be swapped from unit to unit, I think pretty much universally.

Sounds like your reversing planetary/clutch in the front unit burned up. You may be able to buy another unit and install your rear reduction unit on the new one.

Somewhere online is all the model number data explained.

Note some engines/gears are reverse rotation. You can use either, but the oil pump on the front unit must be lined up to match your engine rotation.

Ski in NC said:

The BW's are in two parts: The front section is the clutch and reverse unit. In fwd, the ratio is 1:1. On the back is the reduction unit. The reduction units can be swapped from unit to unit, I think pretty much universally.

Sounds like your reversing planetary/clutch in the front unit burned up. You may be able to buy another unit and install your rear reduction unit on the new one.

Somewhere online is all the model number data explained.

Note some engines/gears are reverse rotation. You can use either, but the oil pump on the front unit must be lined up to match your engine rotation.

Click to expand...

Thanks Ski

There are tons of the things out there. Heck I've got one in my garage, came off a 135 ford lehman. You might want to contact "Trans Atlantic Diesel", they'll probable give you a trade in on your old one. They buy and rebuild them as one of there lines. I do suggest that you do change the flex plate before you put anything back in. They are great transmissions and will go until the cows come home but when there time is up it's usually right now with no warning. Hope this helps. Larry

LWW thanks. I did contact TAD first they have none in stock. I am unable to find an answer if a 10-17 series would work geared at 2.1.