Engine room paint choices?

Was hoping I could get some opinions on what I should paint my engine room with, brand or type. Since I cut the old fuel tanks out and cleaned it all up nice, I figure I should paint it, why not. Without knowing any better, I was just gonna use some regular kilz primer and find some paint that likes fiberglass. Being a boat and all I figure it has to be more difficult than that right? Would love to hear some stories of what people have done.

Paisley.

Ha, wrong

White Tremclad or Rustoleum, the paint you are looking at is 8yr. old Tremclad (rust paint).

Some swear by Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer, Sealer and Stain-Blocker All In One Can...no topcoat necessary.... Zinsser Qt Bullseye 123 Prim/sl Consumer Reviews | Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer, Sealer and Stain-Blocker All In One Can | Epinions.com or any of it's cousins at any hardware store or big box store...

my results have been good over 2 years so far.

Never seen zinsser before. I like the idea of no top coat. Just want to start out with a clean ER is all. Looks like the PO used a grey paint that reminds me of something you would use on your garage floor. Seems to have held up nicely.

I had an empty engine room after replacing tanks (and engines, and electrics etc) and the yard recommended BilgeKote. Seems to be doing fine. Did all the bilge area with it as well.

IF not in the bilge , why not one of the sound damping marine paints?

psneeld said:

Some swear by Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer, Sealer and Stain-Blocker All In One Can...no topcoat necessary.... Zinsser Qt Bullseye 123 Prim/sl Consumer Reviews | Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer, Sealer and Stain-Blocker All In One Can | Epinions.com or any of it's cousins at any hardware store or big box store...

my results have been good over 2 years so far.

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I painted out all the sound proofing tile with this stain blocker. It covered all stain in one coat and looks great. I dont think I would try it in the bildge. Painted the bildge in bright white Rustoleum Topside paint. The Rustoleum is half the cost of other bilge paints. Mines been on for 3 years and still looks great after having fuel and anti-freeze spilled on it.
Make sure you prep the bildge well. I cleaned with TSP and it work great.
My 2cents

Last time the engine was out of OC Diver we lightly sanded, wiped down with Acetone and did one coat of Gelcoat. Has held up very well in 4 years. Can be tinted if you so desire.

Ted

I have used both Bilgecoat and gelcoat in bilges. They both work well, but I like Bilgecoat better.
Clean with something like Simple Green, then rinse, wipe quick with acetone after it's dry, then brush on the Bilgcoat.

Greetings,
Mr. W. I've had excellent results with: Devoe Tru-Glaze-WB 4408 Epoxy
Can be tinted. Pretty well NO odor and cures hard and shiny. Cleans up with water (that's the best part). The vapors on most if not all of the solvent based paints are enough for me to re-live the 70's.

jleonard said:

I have used both Bilgecoat and gelcoat in bilges. They both work well, but I like Bilgecoat better.
Clean with something like Simple Green, then rinse, wipe quick with acetone after it's dry, then brush on the Bilgcoat.

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I too have repainted most of the ER with Bilgecote and found it has cured nice and hard. Prep is key and also make sure you don't put it on heavy - it needs two semi thin coats or one thin depending on location/wear it is going to receive. I painted with the gray as my surface was already a gray as I can't get to some of the areas of the ER and Laz so this was the best solution. Paid about 70 for a gallon.

If I had to do it over again I'd probably lean more towards a tinted epoxy as none of these areas are going to need UV protection. prep and apply - the bilgecote has some real heavy fumes. Epoxy - little to none.

Great comments as I am looking at this as a summer project too. One thing I did learn is to use white. Makes it easier to see leaks and spills....

Fryedaze is right on.

I think it is more about prep than the kind of paint. I use TSP Tri sodium phosphate with a clean water rinse. I haven't had to repaint in 10 years.

I just used a white Alkyd enamel

TSP is your friend any time you are dealing with places where there has been oil.

SD

That Devoe tru-glaze sounds good. What kind of store sells that type of paint? All I can see is I have to order it online, cause the google is useless it seems...

Wilson said:

That Devoe tru-glaze sounds good. What kind of store sells that type of paint? All I can see is I have to order it online, cause the google is useless it seems...

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Protective Coatings Center - Paramount
7312 Alondra Blvd. Paramount, CA 90723
562 220 2465
View our Website
coatingscenter5349@akzonobel.com
Protective Coatings Center, International and Devoe Coatings Products

I painted with bullseye, kilz and some $100/gallon stuff from sherwin williams. I cleaned the heck out of the bilge for weeks before paint though.

psneeld said:

Some swear by Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer, Sealer and Stain-Blocker All In One Can...no topcoat necessary.... Zinsser Qt Bullseye 123 Prim/sl Consumer Reviews | Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer, Sealer and Stain-Blocker All In One Can | Epinions.com or any of it's cousins at any hardware store or big box store...

my results have been good over 2 years so far.

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^^^ this^^

DAMN Swampu that looks very well done! That is what I am going for, clean... I am gonna go with epoxy though. Thanks for the info guys much appreciated!

Protect yourself with proper masks and ventilation.

Fumes of any kind in an enclosed space can be deadly, do brain damage and make you very sick. Don't fool around with it. Set up a good ventilator and use a good quality mask with fume rated filters. You will have to check your supplier.

Those silly little dust masks will not cut it.

Epoxies are among the worst.

On a prior boat I did a job with Bilgekoat. Was happy with the results, though doing it in the winter and with little heating it took almost a week between coats (in the PNW).


Bayliner Owners Club - BOC Forum - Topic: A nasty bilge cleaning job done (1/1)

an epoxy paint will handle standing fuel spills and battery acid - generally solvent free and odorless.

an mcu metalic paint like aluminum filled aluthane will handle 300 degree temps and is also a good wood or fiberglass sealer. High solvent levels and VOC

Low VOC Epoxy in any area where water might accumulate (around bilge pumps, for example). Osmosis is an issue from inside the hull as well as outside.

In the engine room you want intumescent (Fire rated) paint.

Like this.....

Intumescent Paint - Fire Retardant Paint - Rawlins Paints

Tad Roberts said:

In the engine room you want intumescent (Fire rated) paint.

Like this.....

Intumescent Paint - Fire Retardant Paint - Rawlins Paints

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Intumescent paint might be a bit overkill as it swells and chars to prevent the heat from the fire going into the structure. Self-extinguishing, however, would be appropriate.

Someone mentioned sound silencing paint earlier on. One of the attributes of Silent Running is that it is self-extinguishing. I used it during my repower, and thought it gave good value. No connections.