anchor chain on drum anchor winch

Larry, The good thing is I can hide my own Easter eggs.

HopCar said:

Al, It seems we've already had this discussion. I think your use of that link just proves we tend to go much stronger than we really need to on chain and rope. I wouldn't have a problem with using 5/16 BBB or Proof Coil chain on your size boat and the link is about as strong as those.
I see I'm also starting to repeat my stories. I'm getting old.

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Don't feel bad, Parks. I remember having a couple discussions, but didn't remember the details of when, who and what was said. It seems to me there was another thread where the merits of the connecting link were debated more heavily.

I still agree with what I said here and have pasted below. My weakest link might actually be my splice.

In my way of thinking, the chain is more for weight than tensile strength. With my 34 ft/20000 lb boat, the tension loads imposed upon the chain will never come close to approaching the load limits of the links. If true shock loading was possible, then maybe the loads would spike. But with catenary and shock protection from rode and snubbers, I suspect this seldom happens. I suspect my Brait splice is more vulnerable than my replacement link.

Al,
I remember we had a rather extensive discussion about the splice as it affords the only practical way to pull a combination rode w/o transferring the rode from the capstan drum to the chain gypsy. And few seemed inclined to do that.

It seems to me the consensus was that both the 3 strand and the Brait (TM) could be spliced safely. Several jumped in w some history using the splice and it seemed to go well. Personally I'd feel better w a shackle.

But it would be a good setup for me if I was to start using my chain locker, a spliced rode w 3/8" chain (short(20' ?)) and my 5/8ths Brait. I'd need to buy a conventional windlass and seal off my chain locker and provide good ventilation for same. I'm not highly motivated because what I have now works well. Got lots of better places to spend my time and money.

What I really want right now is a saddle shaped drum so my line won't try to climb up and off the drum. A drum like Al's got on his old winch in post #42. I could buy a new Powerwinch (brand) too. Lots of options.

manyboats said:

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Fishermen only have their holds full of fish for short periods of time.
People that are concerned about rode weight don't have all chain. And everybody should be concerned about rode weight.

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My boat is bow-light, particularly with a full load of water and fuel. I wouldn't mind adding another 100 feet of 3/8ths-inch chain to the 200 already there except for the expense and no immediately foreseen need for a longer rode.

Mark,
Perhaps your boat is more stern heavy than bow light.

Don't tell me you have BOTH water and fuel aft? I have water aft but thankfully fuel amidships. Is there no place in that wide hull for fuel somewhere near the center of the boat?

Better bow light than stern light.

The Coot's four 79-gallon fuel tanks are at the forward end of the saloon (just behind the pilothouse) while the two 100-gallon water tanks are behind (next to the hull, under the deck) the saloon's benches. Sleep two (five in a pinch), feed six, and entertain ten, all in 35 feet.

Mark,
Good to hear that. I thought Willy had too much fuel but you've got 3 times as much. But you're burning twice as much. You've got twice as much water but the Coot's twice as big. Seems like a lot of fuel for you. Do you keep the tanks full? If it were my boat I'd be tempted to de-commission the two aftermost fuel tanks. How long does it take runn'in around the Bay area to burn up 300 gallons of fuel?

When I had Willy re-fit and bought new fuel tanks I asked for 35 gallon tanks instead of the old 50 gallon tanks. They ignored me and put in 50 gallon tanks. Now the smaller tanks would even be more appropriate as we won't be going as far and fuel is much more readily available.

Eric, it takes me 20 months to consume the fuel capacity. When purchasing fuel, I fill two fuel tanks (one port, one starboard). So, for over half a year two of the tanks remain empty while the fuel is being consumed, alternately, from the other two tanks to minimize list. No noticeable water issues. All the tanks are in the same relative location fore and aft at the forward end of the saloon.

markpierce said:

Eric, it takes me 20 months to consume the fuel capacity. When purchasing fuel, I fill two fuel tanks (one port, one starboard). So, for over half a year two of the tanks remain empty while the fuel is being consumed, alternately, from the other two tanks to minimize list. No noticeable water issues. All the tanks are in the same relative location fore and aft at the forward end of the saloon.

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Mine were pretty rusty above the fuel line when I left mine empty for about a year....

Hope yours are internally coated somehow....

This a 12v model that I'm very happy with it is very fast around 125 per minute.

That's a very nice setup, FA. Probably the best of all options for many. What brand, size, specs? Got a link?

Does the water and muck catch in the tray below and drain overboard?

I think it's better that that Al.

I think I've seen that rig before .. several years at least. I'd be willing to actually spend money for that winch and I'll bet it is expensive. But why would it be better than the more common reel winches? One could always powder coat the reel winch .. RW ... a dazzling red or a grey brown that looks like the dirt in your crawl space .. or something in-between. A lower price is about the only possibility. Or .... a level wind would help.

Anyway one could put many shackles and sizes of line and chain on that. funangler I second asking for a link or a brand name. Here's a reel winch about as small as they get on a friends Willard. Notice the big thimble, shackle, and the fact that most of his rode is nylon. Perfect. Also notice that Ed covered his fittings w some industrial looking stuff to avoid the heavy rust that usually forms there. Not classy looking but classy compared to the usual rust. If one only did the metal

The problem with the reel shown is you have to babysit the rode. It won't all fit on if it isn't carefully wound and the last thing I want is to have the crew manhandling the rode on a hydraulic windlass.

The little electric one is better as it won't have to be handled.

I am going to remove 100' of this line before I put on the 100' of chain so The Admiral won't have to handle it.

X,
Buy her some gloves. I have my gloves, safety wire, Pliers, Kellet and other anchoring small stuff right by the aft door. Chris takes the helm and does quite well w my hand signals not too dissimilar from crane operators signals but different and self developed.

You're right about getting it all on the drum. My 425' rode won't fit on the smaller reel winches.

That winch of yours looks a bit like mine. Appears to be chain drive.

I have no experience with reel type windlasses. It appears that none of them have a level wind mechanism. Do I just not see it or do they not make them that way?

Most small reel winches that I've seen do not have a motorized or otherwise driven guide to evenly load the reel.
The larger ones do although I've only seen a few.

C lectric said:

Most small reel winches that I've seen do not have a motorized or otherwise driven guide to evenly load the reel.
The larger ones do although I've only seen a few.

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I spend waaaaay too much time grazing the Internet;

UFFW BOAT DRUM ANCHOR WINCHES - BEST, RELIABLE BOAT DRUM ANCHOR / WINCH EQUIPMENT YOU WILL EVER USE

"I spend waaaaay too much time grazing the Internet"
Murray, you're covered in snow, ice is choking the water, what else have you got to do?

Those winches do look well made.

HopCar said:

Those winches do look well made.

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If you import them, I'll take one of the bigger ones and 'test' it for you

This on my neighbors bow.

funangler said:

This a 12v model that I'm very happy with it is very fast around 125 per minute.

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Ezanchorpuller.com. Is the brand Ezanchorpuller.com I bought purchased it 3 season ago and have had no issues the spool hold 350 ft of 5/8 braided. I never seem to bring much mud up to the deck. I spend a lot time anchoring in 60ft of water if I ever want lots of line I would spool up with amsteel instead of braided nylon. I just change the angle of pull and normally it will come across the spool. I would not try to use this deck drum with a heavy plow anchor with a full spool it is not that strong.

Yes, my winch is hydraulic chain drive.

funangler,
Looks like you've got a VERY good handle on ground tackle. Looks like it could be the best on this forum.

Bob,
Thanks for the pic of your neighbor's winch. I see he's using a much heavier chain next to the anchor. I observe that most everybody having this type of winch takes that option. As I recall we had a discussion about the ideal place for weight on the rode to optimize catenary and somebody did some research and reported that that place wasn't right at the end of the anchor shank but 10 or 15% of the way toward the boat along the rode. I don't know if ... a. I remember right or b. it's not theory but fact. Seems more than plausible though. Your neighbor has a very heavy chain next to the anchor (a Forfjord I think) but considerably lighter than the studded chain lots of the fishermen use.

Xbank,
Looks like you have the same winch as I do. Is it easy enough to control the retrieval speed from near empty to near full? In the West End there's a WONDERFUL Korean restaurant on Denman Place not far west of Robson.

Chain goes a long way keeping the shank angle where the flukes want to dig

Hello Eric, to be honest, the rode was so worn out and the hydraulic fluid was black so all I've verified is the operation. I have changed all the hydraulic oil and filter (30 litres) and have run all the systems. I have put on 300' of 3/4" double but it's too much for the drum. I am waiting for a friend to deliver my 100' of 5/16" high test before I cut off 100' of rope. So my experience with this windlass is non-existent. This week was training for myself and my wife as she has never used a hydraulic winch and I want her to stand well out of the way and be safe.

Now it's snowing so we can't get to the slip.

I may put on 20' of 1/2" as well as the anchor is a bit light. It's about 45# and I really need 60 or more. Haven't found one yet.

I should mention that when I removed the chain guard, the chain was badly rusted and largely useless. I had to replace it and all you can get is normal chain, no 316! So I lathered it in LPS. It might need serious grease but I am afraid it will fling it all off. Have a close look at your chain before you use it and be aware of how vulnerable it is for corrosion.

Xsbank, 316 chain is available. It is about as strong as BBB or Proof Coil. It is expensive. I've been using about 25 feet of it on my anchor rode for more than 20 years and it's still pretty.
Any good marine store will have some in stock or be willing to order it for you.
I like the chain that Suncor sells. I trust their quality.
http://www.suncorstainless.com/chain

Sorry Hopcar, Reynolds chain, like motorcycle chain. I understand the confusion.

It has been explained to me that stainless Reynolds chain is used in food production equipment so I may hunt for a source, as long as it has the same or close tensile the regular stuff has. My windlass has a dog but I would hate to have it snap with 300' out.

Ah, chain for the drive. I understand.

Eric,

Here is the rest of the installation.