Raw water pump yes?

I can't find anything in my service manual that shows the location of the raw water pump on my 2725e fl135. I'm going to have to assume this is it as it pulls water from a thru hull and leaks a bit, I wonder why... I guess it got the PO home though ha.
From what I have read so far its hard to find this part. Anybody know what part can replace it? I think the hose clamp is holding a busted something or other together as well so I doubt it can be rebuilt, but then again, I've been wrong before and will continue to be at times.

That looks like the raw water pump to me. If I were you I would close you sea cock and replace the pump, hoses, and clamps before you reopen it again.

Yep. thats it. looks like it has been leaking for awhile. parts won't be hard to source. Call Bob Smith at American Diesel. (804) 435-3107.

If you want it soon i'd call today. I would think he is leaving for trawler fest (2-25 till 3-1) or has maybe already left. I am not sure but it wouldn't surprise me if he closed up shop while he was in FL. Likely a $500 part. not a bad install. if you search ebay they are sometimes on there for a few bucks cheaper.

Read the cover plate and just purchase a kit to rebuild the unit.

If you spring for a new unit , rebuild the old one , and reinstall it.

The impeller should then be removed from the new unit and stored in a plastic bag.

Next time you get in sandy water,and loose cooling , assembling and installing the new unit will be a matter of min.

I prefer to modify the cooling system and place a Sendure inline strainer AFTER the sea water pump.

When the rubber bits come off as the impeller fails , its all caught in the strainer basket , no chasing bits and pieces thru the heat exchanger or exhaust system.

This is insurance that works .

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I don't own a Lehman, so I might be wrong, but it looks as though the PO blocked the weep hole with the hose clamp. This would be indicative of bad pump shaft seals (and a clueless PO).

Is your oil milky?

That is some very artistic use of sealant on that pump.

Northern Spy said:

I don't own a Lehman, so I might be wrong, but it looks as though the PO blocked the weep hole with the hose clamp. This would be indicative of bad pump shaft seals (and a clueless PO).

Is your oil milky?

That is some very artistic use of sealant on that pump.

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I agree.

..it looks as though the PO blocked the weep hole with the hose clamp...

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It my be that the pump house itself is broken and the hose clamp is keeping the orientation of the inlet/outlet in position to the engine. The picture is from Hobo's SP135

Also Wilson: Is the gray matter, where the pump bolts to the engine soft or hard? it looks like someone either made a gasket or used a hard sealant.

You may what to call in some help after talking to American Diesel.

It looks to me like a Johnson pump of the type that allows rotating the pump body on the drive. There is supposed to be a cast in clamp that holds the body. Perhaps it is broken and has been replaced with the hose clamp. Cheesy but not the end of the world. There are better alternative clamps available.

Consider me the clueless one then...

RickB said:

It looks to me like a Johnson pump of the type that allows rotating the pump body on the drive. There is supposed to be a cast in clamp that holds the body. Perhaps it is broken and has been replaced with the hose clamp. Cheesy but not the end of the world. There are better alternative clamps available.

Click to expand...

possibly like this?

You can see a bolt in Larry's post #7...but in the OP looks like both ears are missing....

Thanks for the info guys. I believe that hose clamp is there because the housing clamp broke off. The black goop was rubbery, not hard, my guess was it was supposed to be the gasket although a leaky one. The oil seems fine.
So is that "jab300" the part number? Mine looks a little different but not much, I pulled it off yesterday but for got to bring it home. Can I buy just the broke housing for that part?

Greetings,
"Can I buy just the broke housing for that part?" IF the pump is serviceable as it is, perhaps a better clamp would be cheaper than a new housing. If only one ear is broken off you may have to grind the other ear off as well to get a "roundish" profile. I'm sure Mr. RickB could put you onto the most suitable style of replacement clamp.

Looks to me like the hose clamp does the job good enough not to spend $ right now. I'm going to put an actual gasket on and see how that goes before I get a new one. I will probably put a strainer down line like FF says works, seems smart. thanks again for the info

You might want to make a call to Depco Pumps in Clearwater FL too. It does look like a Johnson pump and they would have the rebuild kits and other parts.

Wilson said:

Looks to me like the hose clamp does the job good enough not to spend $ right now. I'm going to put an actual gasket on and see how that goes before I get a new one. I will probably put a strainer down line like FF says works, seems smart. thanks again for the info

Click to expand...

Considering that a failure of this part could possibly sink your boat or ruin your engine, don't you think it might be wise to replace the broken pump with a new or professionally rebuilt one? Sure it will cost more than a hose clap or gasket, but it's a boat. Not a cheap hobby.

Its hard to argue with that logic Wesk.... Thanks for your input

Wes is right, get another entire unit and keep that one for a spare. It looked to me like that goo on the flange was an attempt to weld it, but whatever was done, that is up there near the top of the list of the most buckshee repairs I've seen. Clean it all out and start over.

That is such a ham-fisted fix, I would be very skeptical of the rest of the (well, not to upset you, not the entire boat) but certainly the entire cooling system. Get those heat exchangers off for a rebuild. Personally, I would replace the oil cooler and the transmission cooler at the very least and keep the old ones for a spare. Change the oil in the engine and the transmission and plan to check the valves and rebuild the injectors. You need a base line as the PO was obviously not too interested in maintenance. Fuel filters and oil filter, check the raw water strainer, the through-hulls and the..........

If you have a genset, look at all the expensive parts in there, too. I doubt they have been looked at for a while.

I agree with the last few posts about fixing this properly. This is a pretty critical system that will minimally disable you engine if it fails, and very possibly flood the boat too.

I'd pull it off, figure out what the goop-fest is all about, figure out what the hose clamp is doing, and fix it all properly with new hoses, clamps, and pump parts.

As for keeping the pump as a spare, I wouldn't. I'd throw it away. If it's not good enough to leave on the boat now, why would it be good enough to put back on later? And if you did put it back on later, you'll just have to take it off once again and replace with new shortly after. If you want to carry a spare, carry one you can rely on and that you can leave in the boat post repair.

Now if that old pump can be rebuild to serviceable condition, that's a different story..... Then I'd keep it, or even continue to use it now.

For Heavens sake ... it is just a simple rubber vane pump. It can easily be rebuilt to practically as new standard. As far as the clamp is concerned, all that does is allow the inlet and outlet to be turned to a convenient position. The clamp stops it rotating, it doesn't hold the engine in place.

The hose clamp is a cheap way to hold the pump, it doesn't take much force and by the look of it, the original bolt clamp has been cut off and filed smooth otherwise the hose clamp wouldn't fit very well. A clamp similar to this will do quite nicely.

It looks like the gasket between the pump drive and the accessory case on the engine was leaking and someone thought a tube of goop would fix it because they were too cheap or afraid to pull the thing and fix it correctly.

There are probably a lot of other issues on that boat worth worrying about more than the pump.

Do you have a place to get used parts at? like Pacific Marine Exchange in Bellingham. For simple cast housings or core parts I hate buying an entire unit just because a fetser actuator bracket failed.

Seems they have been lucky because that hose clamp is not really good enough for the job. Any misalignment puts load one one side of the seal and will damage it. Any tendency to move away from the bearing housing (ie, through tight hoses etc.) will also damage the seal. Safest bet without replacing the housing is to drill & tap three equidistant holes in the bearing housing, align the pump, then dimple the pump housing with drill & fit loctited grub screws (do not over tighten). I've had to do this on numerous pumps on clients' boats over the years. The reality is that these pumps are often so shagged that complete replacement is the only economic repair. Housings & cam plates worn, shafts worn etc.

I think I'll just put a better clamp on it and see how it behaves before I drop 500$ on a new one. The problem was with the lack of a gasket to the engine housing, leaking oil. Thanks for all the info guys, much appreciated.

Good choice.

I am about to do this impeller job myself on 2 80hp lehmans. one has a johnson f5b-9 the other a jabsco as pictured above...never done this before so I have some stupid questions if you dont mind me hijacking this thread. The coolant and raw water systems must be separate yes? How do I drain JUST the raw water? or do I just close the cock and open the pump? Is it better to remove the pump entirely for servicing or should I work with the pump on the engine? one is easy to access the other is not.

Tangler said:

I am about to do this impeller job myself on 2 80hp lehmans. one has a johnson f5b-9 the other a jabsco as pictured above...never done this before so I have some stupid questions if you dont mind me hijacking this thread. The coolant and raw water systems must be separate yes? How do I drain JUST the raw water? or do I just close the cock and open the pump? Is it better to remove the pump entirely for servicing or should I work with the pump on the engine? one is easy to access the other is not.

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Coolant is separated from the raw water by the heat exchanger. Close the sea cock and remove the back plate on the pump. Some water will come out until the raw water side is drained. Impeller should be removable after taking off the back plate. If you are only changing the impeller, you shouldn't need to remove the pump.

If water keeps coming out of the pump with the cover off (couple of minutes), put it back on, you have a sea cock problem.

Ted

thanks O C - on my way to the boat now...the only other impeller I ever did was on an outboard...a lucky meeting with an outboard mechanic at the time scored me a tip about installing it by rotating the shaft as it was pressed into the pump housing...worked great. anyone got any tips for this kind of job?

Tangler said:

thanks O C - on my way to the boat now...the only other impeller I ever did was on an outboard...a lucky meeting with an outboard mechanic at the time scored me a tip about installing it by rotating the shaft as it was pressed into the pump housing...worked great. anyone got any tips for this kind of job?

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Joy

Before you pull the old one out, make a mental note which way the vanes lay. Greese or "never seive" the shaft before you slide the new impeller on (makes it easier to remove it next time). Wipe the inside of the pump housing and coat the impeller with Joy dish washing detergent. Makes everything slip and slide together easily. Joy is environmentally friendly, and won't hurt anything on your engine.

Ted

The vanes will align themselves in the first revolution.
I never tried Joy, I always use Pam or similar cooking spray oil.
No pun intended

Why not put them in in the right orientation and avoid that extra stress?

Bob

thats what I did...got one done but did not have right screwdriver for the other ( I hate that!). the old original jabsco had an aftermarket 'quick seal or sure seal" or something like that and was attached with thumb screws just a little over hand tight...hardest part was getting on the starboard side of that starboard engine - access was difficult but Im a little guy...hard to apply any grease when water was continuously trickling out...thanks for the advise guys