Cost effective anchors

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markpierce

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Carquinez Coot
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penultimate Seahorse Marine Coot hull #6
Had a brief conversation with a professional fisherman of herring yesterday (in Sausalito, CA). Noticed lots of anchors onboard the fishing boat, like six Forthills and two Bruces (the two Bruces and two additional Forthills located behind the floats). Asked why all the Northills. Response: very effective in the San Francisco Bay, although they can mess up the fish nets, so they're moving toward Bruce types.

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No mention of any new-fangled anchors like those with semi-circle hoops.
 
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Had a brief conversation with a professional fisherman of herring yesterday (in Sausalito, CA). Noticed lots of anchors onboard the fishing boat, like six Forthills and two Bruces (the two Bruces and two additional Forthills located behind the floats). Asked why all the Northills. Response: very effective in the San Francisco Bay, although they can mess up the fish nets, so they're moving toward Bruce types.

img_208341_0_ef233b68ab1c06aae400554c6df578f4.jpg


No mention of any new-fangled anchors like those with semi-circle hoops.
That's because they are too busy out catching fish to read mags and look up web sites, so are probably blissfully unaware they even exist Mark.
 
I would say they are using them to anchor their nets and not their boat.
therefore the holding power requirement is not as great but more a weight issue.
That is my 2c worth from a net fishermans perspective.

Cheers
Benn
 
Good point Benn. My uncle was a trawlerman, and never anchored. If he was not able to return to port at night he picked up a mooring the trawlerman used to have set at strategic points in sheltered bays up and down the coast. Deep water fishermen who stay out at night don't anchor either because the water is too deep. They either keep fishing with a night shift as it were, or just drift or travel slowly to their next fishing ground at night.
 
Started using Bruce in 1982; have had three. I save a bit of money buying Claws, now.
 
Cheap is not always the best. It is all about holding power after all once you are at anchor it is the main insurance you have.

Cheers
Benn
 
The lowest cost anchors are USED , sometimes as low as a buck a pound.

ONLY quality real anchors , no imitation or chinese copies.

If you prefer a Danforth or CQR , just buy a REAL one.
 
You can spend allot for an anchor, and nothing against the guys that do.

I have been getting quite acceptable performance from bruce knockoff anchors for 14 years of boating, and we anchor off every night, and also during the day to fish.

dont want to start an argument here, but I have lots better things to spend a grand on for my boat other than a pretty, or a "better" anchor.
 
You can spend allot for an anchor, and nothing against the guys that do.

I have been getting quite acceptable performance from bruce knockoff anchors for 14 years of boating, and we anchor off every night, and also during the day to fish.

dont want to start an argument here, but I have lots better things to spend a grand on for my boat other than a pretty, or a "better" anchor.

Same here, Kevin. I'm sure in some areas with rocky or weed-filled bottoms, the claw anchor might not be the anchor of choice, but here in the SF Bay-California Delta region, it works great and is a good value.
 
I wouldn't be talking about "Cost effective anchors", I would be looking for an "effective" anchor, one that keeps my boat where I put it, not down the river or onto the rocks or marsh.

Once I decide on an effective anchor, I would consider cost. For example, a galvanized claw anchor is just as effective as a stainless steel anchor of the same size and design so I would chose the galvanized version.
 
I understand that Bruce is "forged" while Claw is "cast"

I assume forged is strongest, however, I am conservative with anchor sizing, so our Claw is one size stouter than ordinary.
 
That's a smart move, Moby Nick. I wish I had done that. I've got the 15 kg (33 lb) claw and wish I had the 20 kg model. But truth be told, the 15 kg claw has never dragged, even in a 35 kt all-night blow on Prospect Slough.
 
Ditto.
 
I spent on a modern anchor to replace the old plough when I knew we would be anchoring out more often. Cost is a factor, effectiveness rates higher, our set success rate is almost 100%. Admittedly, it wasn`t much worse with the plough, once we marked the chain.
 
I think the most cost effective anchor is the Manson Supreme.

They actually weigh a little more that what they are spec'ed at. My 15 lb MS is actually 18lbs. One or two others have said as much.

The MS holds almost as good as the Rocna at 7-1 but it's holding is extremely high even at 3-1.

The polished SS anchors may have a performance advantage in that I've heard they shed mud better when retrieving. Speaking of shedding mud the MS is probably weak on that score. I've never brought mine up w mud on it though.
 
...
The polished SS anchors may have a performance advantage in that I've heard they shed mud better when retrieving. Speaking of shedding mud the MS is probably weak on that score. I've never brought mine up w mud on it though.

Although I don't like bringing up sticky, San Franciscan, estuarian mud on the anchor, I figure a rough-surfaced anchor would hold a bit better than a smooth one.
 
Ploughs are expensive. Still own one from my sailing days (early 1980s). Never used it as the smaller, handier Bruce did its job.
 
You won't cry as long losing a $100 galvanized anchor as you will losing a $400 stainless steel one.
 
... a galvanized claw anchor is just as effective as a stainless steel anchor of the same size and design so I would chose the galvanized version.

Darn right. I'm not about to acquire anchor jewelry, but an SS bow-plate is another matter. One's got to set one's priorities!


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Although I don't like bringing up sticky, San Franciscan, estuarian mud on the anchor, I figure a rough-surfaced anchor would hold a bit better than a smooth one.

...makes more sense than the other way around as that's what an anchor is for ....although coming up clean is nice in anyone's book.
 
That's a smart move, Moby Nick. I wish I had done that. I've got the 15 kg (33 lb) claw and wish I had the 20 kg model. But truth be told, the 15 kg claw has never dragged, even in a 35 kt all-night blow on Prospect Slough.

Al, when/if your anchor fails, let's collaborate on our replacements, assuming you take the lead.
 
Mark wrote;

"I figure a rough-surfaced anchor would hold a bit better than a smooth one."

I don't think so Mark. The SS one may hold better as there may be less friction and the SS anchor may penetrate better as in deeper and hold better. Just a thought. Certainly not to a cost effective level though.

With a new anchor I don't see how any anchor could compare favorably on a cost basis w a galvanized Claw.

What is the best Claw I'd like to know?
 
The most expensive anchor you can buy for your boat is cheap by comparison to the cost of getting your boat off the beach and fixing the damage... providing there is enough boat left to repair.

I never understood how someone can spent $ 100,000 on a boat and complain about spending $ 500.00 for a anchor.

HOLLYWOOD
 
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The most expensive anchor you can buy for your boat is cheap by comparison to the cost of getting your boat off the beach and fixing the damage... providing there is enough boat left to repair.

I never understood how someone can spent $ 100,000 on a boat and complain about spending $ 500.00 for a anchor.

HOLLYWOOD

Sorry, you haven't convinced me that the most expensive anchor is the most effective nor the best for one's needs.
 
Sorry, you haven't convinced me that the most expensive anchor is the most effective nor the best for one's needs.

But it sure is hard to argue with a BIG over-sized known anchor with a 50 year history of working.
 
Sorry, you haven't convinced me that the most expensive anchor is the most effective nor the best for one's needs. .........

You can be sure that the cheapest anchor is not the most effective nor the best for one's needs.
 

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