I REALLY like that boat.
That's pretty much the prototype of the sort of boat I am narrowing down to.
Here is one to talk about
- Thread starter freshalaska
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I REALLY like that boat.
That's pretty much the prototype of the sort of boat I am narrowing down to.
healhustler
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- Vessel Name
- Bucky
- Vessel Make
- Krogen Manatee 36 North Sea
Yeah....it does look very good, if not bow-down plowing a bit. I didn't see an mention of the draft anywhere, but she doesn't look too deep. Very nice conversion.
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I really, REALLY like the idea of a semi-clunky looking Steel hulled trawler that's kind of over-built for recreational use.
Sort of like the marine equivalent of a pre-1988 3/4 Ton Chevy Suburban. (Still had the solid front axle)
Then again, I'm kind of a fan of Bauhaus Architecture, so I may just have a thing for the "Form follows Function" school of design.
Sort of like the marine equivalent of a pre-1988 3/4 Ton Chevy Suburban. (Still had the solid front axle)
Then again, I'm kind of a fan of Bauhaus Architecture, so I may just have a thing for the "Form follows Function" school of design.
Nomad Willy
Guru
I have an 85 Burb w the 4 speed truck transmission (manual) and just can't seem to part w it. It's an ugly servant.
Re the fish boat conversion that looks bow sown and plowing a big bow wave it's the nature of the design. They need to haul tons of fish. More of it aft than fwd so w/o the fish they plow along bow down and stern up. Not what I like on a following sea. Since the hull is designed to carry such a load they are wide and reach their beam at the chine well fwd. Narrow sharp bows need not apply and plenty of power is the norm. But to some they have redeeming features .... like their "bad a**" look. Even more brawny than a trawler .. what more could a man want?
Looking at the picture again I see this one riding quite level but over loaded. Wonder what all he's got aboard?
Larry, most of those hulls are about the same draft as most trawlers. Some do vary though.
Re the fish boat conversion that looks bow sown and plowing a big bow wave it's the nature of the design. They need to haul tons of fish. More of it aft than fwd so w/o the fish they plow along bow down and stern up. Not what I like on a following sea. Since the hull is designed to carry such a load they are wide and reach their beam at the chine well fwd. Narrow sharp bows need not apply and plenty of power is the norm. But to some they have redeeming features .... like their "bad a**" look. Even more brawny than a trawler .. what more could a man want?
Looking at the picture again I see this one riding quite level but over loaded. Wonder what all he's got aboard?
Larry, most of those hulls are about the same draft as most trawlers. Some do vary though.
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FF
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Overbuilt displacement boat is fine , with many better hulls requiring 2 hp per ton to push, an extra 22,000 lbs of hull material would be a minor fuel bill, probly hard to notice.
RickB
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- CHB 48 Zodiac YL 4.2
It's a wooden boat. The underwater planking is always wet and not subject to the kind of weathering and rot as the planking that gets wet with fresh water and remains at the "right" moisture level to support rot.
The worst planking is usually at the waterline.
Nomad Willy
Guru
FF wrote;
"Overbuilt displacement boat is fine"
Not fine at all. Overbuilt anything is bad. A waste and limit's the abilities of of whatever is overbuilt. Just like the all chain anchor rode. A waste and it limits the abilities of the rode and the boat.
Naval architects specify how a boat will be built and of what materials and the dimensions of those materials. Unless he makes a mistake (often happens) the boat should be at it's best as designed. If the boat is very well designed any change in the design will make the boat less able to achieve her design objectives.
So Fred to overbuild is not fine. But what is a boat built to in the first place? It's built to a list of objectives that may or may not be specified. Some may be implied or assumed. If you increase the thickness of the hull, add another engine and what goes with it, build a cabin on the sundeck or any other overbuilding and the boat will not perform as conceived, specified and designed. Design is an "organized solution to a problem" and if you take your eye off the ball (the "problem") you won't achieve your goals .... solution of the problem.
I'm not saying lighter is better at all times but it usually is if the original design to solve the problem is not compromised. Use plastic cleats? NO. Carbon fiber mast? NO. Remove a FB? Hmmmmmmmmm
So it's quite likely underbuilt may be preferable to overbuilt. Overbuilt may, however be safer most of the time. Changing a design is saying you know more about boat design than the NA that designed the boat. Sticking one's neck out to be sure but frequently changes are just a matter of taste. I don't want that big bed in the middle .. I want V berths. Or lets take that speaker out at the bottom and add another drawer. But you may say "I love this boat but want twin engines". Now that one you shouldn't do "off hand" but consult a NA before buying new engines ect.
But basically "overbuilt" is like putting a lead diving belt around your waist and going about your daily doings. The day wouldn't be the same. It would not be as good as usual. Overbuilt is not fine.
"Overbuilt displacement boat is fine"
Not fine at all. Overbuilt anything is bad. A waste and limit's the abilities of of whatever is overbuilt. Just like the all chain anchor rode. A waste and it limits the abilities of the rode and the boat.
Naval architects specify how a boat will be built and of what materials and the dimensions of those materials. Unless he makes a mistake (often happens) the boat should be at it's best as designed. If the boat is very well designed any change in the design will make the boat less able to achieve her design objectives.
So Fred to overbuild is not fine. But what is a boat built to in the first place? It's built to a list of objectives that may or may not be specified. Some may be implied or assumed. If you increase the thickness of the hull, add another engine and what goes with it, build a cabin on the sundeck or any other overbuilding and the boat will not perform as conceived, specified and designed. Design is an "organized solution to a problem" and if you take your eye off the ball (the "problem") you won't achieve your goals .... solution of the problem.
I'm not saying lighter is better at all times but it usually is if the original design to solve the problem is not compromised. Use plastic cleats? NO. Carbon fiber mast? NO. Remove a FB? Hmmmmmmmmm
So it's quite likely underbuilt may be preferable to overbuilt. Overbuilt may, however be safer most of the time. Changing a design is saying you know more about boat design than the NA that designed the boat. Sticking one's neck out to be sure but frequently changes are just a matter of taste. I don't want that big bed in the middle .. I want V berths. Or lets take that speaker out at the bottom and add another drawer. But you may say "I love this boat but want twin engines". Now that one you shouldn't do "off hand" but consult a NA before buying new engines ect.
But basically "overbuilt" is like putting a lead diving belt around your waist and going about your daily doings. The day wouldn't be the same. It would not be as good as usual. Overbuilt is not fine.
Nomad Willy
Guru
Rick yes and if it's Douglas Fir and in seawater even better yet.
psneeld
Guru
I'm not sure why you picked Viking...but they have a reputation where I come from that equals or exceeds Nordhavn in terms of how long they have been around (early 1960's) and are known to be solid boats (like Nordhavns) for what they are made for.
Bad choice IMO.....as they are sportfish...not an around the world cruiser.
Nomad Willy
Guru
N47,
No boat is "no good" because of it's anchor rode. And Nordhavn or the NA specified all chain because it sells trawlers better. My favorite bigger boat is a Nordhavn 46.
If you put a weight on whatever anchor rode 25% of the way down from the bow the rode at that point will sink or become lower. And the rode 25% of the way UP the rode from the anchor will rise. The rise in the lower end of the rode will increase the angle of the rode close to the anchor and make it easier to breakout the anchor.
A 1/2 chain rode may perform better than an all chain. And if you double the weight of the chain and remove the upper half you'd have the same weight as before but much a much better (lower) angle of pull at the anchor. Or better yet use the 100+ lbs of the removal of the upper half of the rode and get a new anchor the weight of your present anchor + 100lbs. That will veritably certainly increase the performance of the rode/anchor combination at no increase to the weight of the boat.
See archives for much more.
No boat is "no good" because of it's anchor rode. And Nordhavn or the NA specified all chain because it sells trawlers better. My favorite bigger boat is a Nordhavn 46.
If you put a weight on whatever anchor rode 25% of the way down from the bow the rode at that point will sink or become lower. And the rode 25% of the way UP the rode from the anchor will rise. The rise in the lower end of the rode will increase the angle of the rode close to the anchor and make it easier to breakout the anchor.
A 1/2 chain rode may perform better than an all chain. And if you double the weight of the chain and remove the upper half you'd have the same weight as before but much a much better (lower) angle of pull at the anchor. Or better yet use the 100+ lbs of the removal of the upper half of the rode and get a new anchor the weight of your present anchor + 100lbs. That will veritably certainly increase the performance of the rode/anchor combination at no increase to the weight of the boat.
See archives for much more.
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