Blown 15 amp inline fuse on freshwater pressure pump

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I also found that the UV water purifier and filter system is on the same circuit breaker as the water pump. I will put a 20 amp fuze in-line for the pump as the manufacturer suggests.

Any thoughts on why this fuze has started blowing when it worked fine during the summer and fall season? Age starting to catch up with the pump? There is a small bit of gurgling when the pump is on indicating some air in the line.

Jim

Jim, Sent from my iPad using Trawler
 
I will try again. My first tome got wiped out, timed out.

With the additional info you added I think more info from you is needed.
-Size of main C.B. supplying the W.pump , filter setup, UV lgt.
-Size of main supply wire from C.B. to the equipment
-is the other equipment fused and the size of those fuses.
-size of the wire to the other equipment
-amp draw of the equipment


Industrially it is common and perfectly good to use a large C.B. and heavier wire, sized for the combined total load, for the bulk of the run untill close to the equipment and then use individual fuses or circuit breakers close to the point of use for individual pieces of equipment.

Most of the equipment I used to work on often brought in a large cable of 480-600V and hundreds of amps capacity into a breaker panel or machine control box. Then each sub piece of equipment , motors, heaters, controls, had their own smaller feeds protected by fuses or C.B.

You case is of course pushing the analogy a lot but it still works. Is there extra C.B. space at the panel as lack of space is often the driver for similar setups. The builder usually does not leave enough spare openings for additional breakers over the years.

In your case If the P.O. used a large C.B. and main supply wire, + & -, large enough to supply adequately and allow for voltage loss, the pieces of equipment you mentioned may be well served as they are, with smaller fuses/C.B. to protect the wiring and equipment beyond. Just be sure the above is paid attention to.

In this case the UV light and filters [?] are not of much use when the pump is out of commission since all work as a system yet each piece will be protected. Of course the sub connections should also be covered and the joins/connections done properly.

Check the fuse holders. Loose clips, springs or dirt/corrosion/oxidation will cause nuisance failures of fuses. The looseness/dirt will create unwarranted heat which will melt the fuse element from the fuse cap inside the fuse body. If the fuse blew from a true overload then usually the narrowed actual fuse section will fail.

If heat from looseness is the problem often the element will be intact but will separate from the cap. Often an ohmmeter is needed to check it.

Same is true for the blade type fuses, ATO.

The pump could also be blowing the fuses now due to the bearings getting tight from rust. Pumps have shaft seals and they can leak allowing water into the motor area causing the bearings to rust. That will cause increased current to be drawn blowing the fuse.

How is the pump oriented? Ideally the motor should be atop the pump. If the pump is atop or even horizontal to the motor, water will have a much easier time entering the motor when the seal fails.

The labouring sound and the gurgling may indicate a leak of water and air past the seal and water damaging the bearings.

It may be time to rebuild the pump including the bearings.

When removing the hoses, quickly raise the ends above the tank if possible and cap and tie them up.

I installed mini handle full flow 1/2" ball valves to close off the supply and output hoses. I also installed BRASS, good quality, threaded hose fittings to easily separate the pump for service. The fittings are installed reversed, supply to output, so the connections will not be easily reversed.

DO NOT USE PLASTIC HOSE FITTINGS. Some may be ok but if not they will blow and make a big mess and you could lose all the water if not caught quickly.
 
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>It is also foolish and dangerous to "steal" power by piggybacking on another branch circuit. That sort of thing is what leads to the light flickering and dimming and loss of electronic readouts (and damage) that we always read about here.<

Thats all fine in theory , but few , even big buck boat assemblers ,leave a few dozen unused circuits of various size for the next few decades of future boating desirements .
 
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Thats all fine in theory , but few , even big buck boat assemblers ,leave a few dozen unused circuits of various size for the next few decades of future boating desirements .

I have yet to see a "big buck boat" that doesn't have room on the switchboard to install more breakers.

It is low rent to add mystery loads to an existing breaker. If the breaker and wire are adequate for the additional loads, a sub-panel can easily be installed nearby or in the compartment where the loads are located,with breakers or fuses for those loads. If that is done, the breaker feeding the subpanel should be relabeled to show what it supplies.

It costs less to do it right than spend hours or days or have to hire someone to figure out why something doesn't work.
 
It costs less to do it right than spend hours or days or have to hire someone to figure out why something doesn't work.

Except on a used 20-40 year old boat , that is a fantasy.

Reality is usually a snake pit of layers laid on , good enough ?, over the decades.
 
Let's put this another way - If you don't have time to do it right the first time, how are you going to have time to do it over?

Just because other things may have been done incorrectly on your boat (or house or car, etc.) doesn't mean you shouldn't do what you are doing correctly. Take some pride in your work.
 
Let's put this another way - If you don't have time to do it right the first time, how are you going to have time to do it over?

Just because other things may have been done incorrectly on your boat (or house or car, etc.) doesn't mean you shouldn't do what you are doing correctly. Take some pride in your work.

the trouble is there is no "correct" way of doing a lot of things on a boat...there's quite a range from extremely dangerous to extreme overkill....

please don't bring pride into it as it take a huge back seat to time available, basic boat construction and layout, budget, reasonableness, etc...etc...
 
please don't bring pride into it as it take a huge back seat to time available, basic boat construction and layout, budget, reasonableness, etc...etc...

Indeed some folks see it as a religion ,, OVERKILL.

Hard to argue with ,>too well done , with too good materials<.
 
In response to the last two posts, I have one question: Do you think the OP's situation where someone tapped off the water pump circuit to add an accessory and then used inline fuses (for whatever reason) to the water pump and we would assume, the accessory, is the "right way"?
 
In response to the last two posts, I have one question: Do you think the OP's situation where someone tapped off the water pump circuit to add an accessory and then used inline fuses (for whatever reason) to the water pump and we would assume, the accessory, is the "right way"?

there are still variations to that theme...so no "right way" is still just someones opinion.

But if you specifically ask...if one CB/Fuse is handling a trunk line on which several "users" are fed from...each user should have it's own CB/fuse to handle it's rating and feed wire.

But there other ways to skin that cat so it's not the only way or "correct" way of doing it....it just happens to meet certain safety guidelines.
 
I have an update as I trouble shoot this. First, we are not spending a lot of time on the boat right now. I tried the 20 amp in-line fuze as per the manufacture's instructions. This time the breaker on the board was tripped. So it seems this is probably a 15 amp fuze. I suspect that there is an issue with the pump not shutting off at the designated pressure. I will put in the new spare pump and see if the current pump can be serviced. I won't do this until I have more time and the bungs available to stop the flow of water from the water tanks that are nearly full (350 gallons).

WRT to the electronics on this vessel, the PO was a very capable individual and at the most recent Krog-in at Roche Harbor! I received many positive comments from other Krogen owners on the wiring behind the helm that was done by the PO. He had also upgraded we wiring elsewhere on the boat. I'm sure there are many things that can and should be on my vessel but a bow to stern rewording isn't going to be on the agenda any time soon.

Jim, Sent from my iPad using Trawler
 
Try getting rid of the inline fuse and replacing with an inline circuit breaker.

When the pump first comes on, it often draws more than those sensitive in line fuses can
handle. The inline circuit breaker will hang in there a few milliseconds longer allowing the
amperage spike to subside.

I had this similar problem with other pumps and this solved my problems
 
That's what slo-blow fuses are made for.
 
Update: I switched a new FW pump in for the one that wasn't operating. The new one isn't blowing fuses. It was, however, a bit of a learning curve on "Crimping 101". One needs to have the correct size of butt connectors! Lordco doesn't have them and I couldn't seem to make the smaller ones work somehow! Steveston hardware had the correct size.

We have freshwater now! Thanks to all for advice.

Jim, Sent from my iPad using Trawler
 
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