Frayed Line

psneeld said:

If you are referring to the long splice to a chin it is fairly common...especially for certain wildcats being able to pass it where a short "back" splice won't work with all windlasses.

That was also why my question whether the "pro rigger" used a long splice or short splice. Weird but the short splice is a tad stronger but like I said the increased diameter of the short or "back splice" to one link limits its use though windlasses and block/tackles.

Mastering marlinespike: Short splice

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Thats my point. It doesn't look like a long, or short splice. Not much uniformity through the links that I can see. I'm sure it has worked for them, but you wouldn't see it on my sled. I wouldn't be able to sleep with that set up.

Sailor of Fortune said:

Thats my point. It doesn't look like a long, or short splice. Not much uniformity through the links that I can see. I'm sure it has worked for them, but you wouldn't see it on my sled. I wouldn't be able to sleep with that set up.

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Are you referring to the picture of the anchor chain splice in post #23?

Didn't study it closely but it looked normal at a quick glance...even had some whipping on it (usually not done).

If it was done correctly I believe it has the strength of most other splices...maybe even stonger than the rope to rope long splice.

Back to the faking side discussion/thread creep.

Here's a definition I found that is similar to what I recall doing from my early sailing days.

"Faking down a line is laying it up in the same manner as for coiling down, except that it is laid out in long, flat bights, one alongside the other, instead of in round coils"

Used to do this up and down a deck with rodes to get ready for anchoring.

TECHNOLOGY

what about "splicing the main brace?"

psneeld said:

Right from a Yale Cordage White Paper....​

"And, once the line becomes wet and is subsequently dried, it can become difficult to handle, resisting flaking or coiling"......​

A White Paper Produced by Yale Cordage
September 2005
ANCHORING​

TECHNOLOGY

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Rant time:

Probably written by an under 30 year old who hasn't done his or her etymologic research.

Probably the same person who said a certain boat/ship "floundered and sank". Nope. Sorry. The term is "foundered". That means that it filled with water and sank.

The English language is going to hell in a hand basket at an accelerating rate.

For instance, I cringe every time the weather person says: "Presently it is 80 degrees, but it will be cooler in awhile" when what is meant is: "At present it is 80 degrees, but presently it will be cooler".

End of rant.

Some say the language has been going downhill since pre-Beowulf days, if not before then. Some say its just constantly evolving.

Go here (left column): Making Up a Line

I used to really be into this nautical terminology as a kid. The definition of "Flemishing" a line in the above link lead my mind to "Flemish Horse".

Time for bed.

dwhatty....very nice! A lesson from an old Merchant Marine sailor.

I came on here to bring up "Flemishing" but you already covered that.

Everything you said was as I experienced it in the U.S. Navy in 1959.

Thanks!

I've been hearing flake and fake interchangeably for over 50 years....here's a source that thinks "flake" goes back to English naval power days...
Nautical Terms

I know there is a subtle difference in the words fake and flake...but to be honest...I'm not sure what it is any more....is one the act and the other the finished product as in "I am about to fake the line" and "that line on deck is flaked out"?

Either way both terms have been around....just most people are bastardizing at least one of them a lot.

Well, I for one prefer 'flake', because I would hate to think anyone thought, when I demonstrated my seamanship skills, I was 'faking' it...

The line/rope repair is a “short splice”. It appears to be pretty strong.

The line/anchor splice runs through the gypsy and hawse just fine, no problems at all.

As I said, we anchored overnight quite frequently with strong winds and currents and the gear held us in place every time.

Even though I had the alarms set, I would still get up a couple of times during the night to check our position. I kept a very big spotlight on the sundeck and would check our position relative to things on the shore like a particular bush or tree or lights that I had seen when we set the anchor.

Overall though, I had no problems sleeping while at anchor.

Thanks for the terminology dissertation.
Summer project: New interior for the SALOON/SALON. KJ

Growing up in the pre-velco-shoe era, the double slip-knot was the first knot I learned. That was well before my boating days.

I knew a guy in Sausalito that did custom splicing. He actually was in pretty high demand and made a nice living doing it. And he wasn't faking it. KJ

Line doesn't last forever. Retrieving my anchor one day, I noticed that the line was damaged near the rope to chain splice and I would probably lose the anchor and chain if I anchored again so we went on to our marina even though it was dark and the staff would be gone.

I took the rode to West Marine and asked them to just reverse the line and splice the other end to the chain but they declined, citing "liability". I could not find anyone to professionally do a rope to chain splice so I had to buy new line at West Marine. They spliced it to my existing chain for a nominal fee but of course, the new line wasn't cheap.

Yes, there are instructions and videos on the Internet on how to do a rope to chain splice, but this is a pretty critical splice and even with instructions, it's unlikely that one's first attempt will be as good as what a pro who has done hundreds will be. I sleep better at anchor knowing a pro did this splice.

With normal three strand and a few practices they get better within a few splices. Buy some whipping and enjoy. I found a video on youtube and tried it last year. It was amazing how quickly it all came together. You can produce pretty good results by the third attempt. Add some whipping and all of a sudden your rode looks like a pro. Splicing three strand just takes a bit of time, patients, something to melt the ends and your in business. The trick is starting with enough length, I will start with more than I think I need just to make sure I don't have to start over. You'll know if you've done it properly by the look and feel. Also knowing how to work with three strand can save you some good $$ when you need to resplice your anchor rode. I paid someone $20 for a simple eye once and then discovered it didn't fit through a deck plate and had to cut it. That's when I decided to learn.

>Or just get all chain rode and never worry about chafe again.<

And you get to live with extra weight , watch the chain rust , listen to it chafe against the hull , and to scrub it inch by inch , or have constant LOW TIDE aromas on board.

A powered windlass to buy and maintain is usually a chain requirement

Great for coral infested waters , a PIA for most inland cruising.

Opinions vary.

I started making decent three-strand splices after meeting Brion Toss (author of Chapman's book of knots) at his booth at the Seattle boat show. With just a few hints he greatly improved my technique.

Some hints: flatten out each of the three strands after you tie on a constrictor and unlay them - don't keep them twisted and round. Cut their ends into a bit of a taper, and then tape around each end with masking tape making somewhat of a point. After each round of three over and under tucks, roll the splice between your hands to firm it up and even it out, then pull each of the three strands tight, and maybe roll again, before the next round of three tucks. You shouldn't need more than 5-7 rounds of tucks, if they're done right.

Best by far three-strand splicing tool is Brion's Point Hudson Phid - makes it so much easier than a basic fid! The directions for eye splcing that come with it are pretty good even without a book. Google Brion Toss to find his web site.

I don't have as frequent need for an eye splice, but I re-do my rope-to-chain splice annually (Google shackle splice, and you'll find Brion's detailed description). For extra durability, I finish the splice by putting a whipping around the section of the splice where the tapered ends wind up (with the masking tape removed - peeled off as I do the last tuck or two). It looks fairly spiffy, and lasts a summer of anchoring.