Faux Teak Options

As our annual boatyard time approaches, we are considering replacing or removing Skinny Dippin's teak sundeck floor. While we have not had a professional look at it yet, I am 90% sure we have water intrusion into the coring under a portion of it.

So we have options. Pull up the bad section and replace. Find a new way to reattach the old teak. Pull the teak completely, reinforce the floor with fiberglass and epoxy, and either throw down a temp carpet or non-skid. Pull up teak and put down a faux teak product.

There are a ton on the market and it's hard to narrow down the search. I was looking for opinions from y'all about the different products out there. Particularly the ease of instal, durability, and feel. I think we want to stay away from the soft stuff like SeaDek unless we can use it like a big mat we can replace later.

Looking forward to hearing options. Thanks!

replacing teak decks

If I were faced with this, and I could be with a 22 year old GB, I'd replace with a layer of FRP and non-skid.
Bill Noftsinger

bnoft said:

If I were faced with this, and I could be with a 22 year old GB, I'd replace with a layer of FRP and non-skid.
Bill Noftsinger

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I agree. Faux anything is the start of value destruction.

After teak removal use a 3/8" drill bit to test various areas for soft/wet spots. Easy to spot repair those holes. Before new FRP is laid it is prudent to remove the damaged core material. Otherwise the damage can spread and you will have an area that flexes underfoot.

As well as replacing the core, you should then consider adding something to compensate for the stiffness that the 3/8" teak gave to the deck as well. So either a thicker core than was originally there. That's ok if you need to do the whole deck. But if doing only a few patches of the deck, then after fairing the patches add some FRP layers over the entire deck area.

For non-skid I like the 'ground up tennis balls' stuff. Use it quite coarse size. It gives a little, less like sandpaper. On my foredeck, which had all the core replaced, I used micro-balloons sprinkled onto the Awlgrip. It looks great but the fine texture does not have as good a grip as the boat deck where the ground-up tennis balls were used. The pic of the RIB support shows the coarseness.

Insequent said:

I agree. Faux anything is the start of value destruction. After teak removal use a 3/8" drill bit to test various areas for soft/wet spots. Easy to spot repair those holes. Before new FRP is laid it is prudent to remove the damaged core material. Otherwise the damage can spread and you will have an area that flexes underfoot. As well as replacing the core, you should then consider adding something to compensate for the stiffness that the 3/8" teak gfave to the deck as well. So either a thicker core than was originally there. Thats ok if you need to do the whole deck. But if doing only a few patches of the deck, then after fairing the patches add some FRP layers over the entire deck area. For non-skid I like the 'ground up tennis balls' stuff. Use it quite coarse size. It gives a little, less like sandpaper. On my foredeck, which had all the core replaced, I used microballoons sprinkled onto the Awlgrip. It looks great but the fine texture does not have as good a grip as the boat deck where the ground-up tennis balls were used.

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Is that an NSS- 7 on the dink?

N4712 said:

I that an NSS- 7 on the dink?

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No. NSS 8. Originally it was going to be on my FB. But then I put a Furuno MFD12 there. I also take the NSS 8 off the dink and have it on the back deck for fishing.

Insequent said:

No. NSS 8. Originally it was going to be on my FB. But then I put a Furuno MFD12 there. I also take the NSS 8 off the dink and have it on the back deck for fishing.

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Awesome, pure awesome!

After a little chat with a yard down here, I think that there are really just two options. Removal, or replacement with actual teak. Two things that I wasn't totally aware of are that all faux teak products get hot in the direct sunlight and that all of the "good" products are just as expensive as actual teak. So, assuming that removal is required (and I don't know that it is yet), I suspect that we'll just leave it off for now until we can find an acceptable alternative method of attachment. Grand Banks, I have heard, has a method that requires minimal screws, but I just barely remember a conversation about it with a delivery captain in Beaufort, NC a very long time ago.

So... we'll see how it goes.

What have you heard about Ipe wood as decking? Went down to Capital City Lumber (Raleigh) and priced some for later swim platform. Harder than teak but with similar water repellant properties.

Curious...

We replaced the teak deck on the house of our last boat with no screws using TDS SIS-440. We dry fitted the new teak then used the SIS-440 as a bedding compound. Ten years later the decks were as tight as the day they were installed. Not cheap and easy though. It took 45 man days and $1,200 just in caulk.

Before we bought Hobo, we looked at another KK42 that had teak foredecks. The estimate to remove the teak and replace with fiberglass and non-skid was about 10K.

I don't think there are many cheap options unless you can do it your self. It might be worth a call to Teakdecking Systems in Sarasota FL. They are the premier teak decking replacement company and are pretty good about discussing their products and services, on the phone, even to us little guys.

The World's Leader in Pre-Manufactured Custom Teak Decks - Teakdecking Systems®

When our teak side/aft decks need replacement, we'll go with glass and non-skid. We just renewed the non-skid on the foredeck and it took two days and less than $200 in materials.

Larry beat me to it. I was going to suggest you talk to Teak Decking Systems as well. I sell their caulk in my store and they are nice folks to deal with. They know their stuff when it comes to teak decks.

If it were me, I would go with glass and non-skid. Not just because of cost, but also because the whit deck gives a larger, cleaner look.

Couple of questions for you guys...Brian, what is "ground up tennis balls". Is that Kiwi Grip? Does it get dirty and if so, is it easy to clean?

Larry M. what kind of non-skid did YOU use? Dirty...easy to clean?
Thanks

stevensibs said:

...Larry M. what kind of non-skid did YOU use? Dirty...easy to clean? Thanks

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We used AwlGrip 73013 which is their course material. It was easy to do. We taped of the non-skid area, sanded and wiped with a solvent. Rolled on a coat of AwlCraft 2000 with a 4 inch varnish roller. Then using a styrofoam cup with tooth pick holes in the bottom, we went over the painted areas. Then rolled on one more coat with the AwlCraft. We did it last January and so far it's been good wearing and easy to clean. I did practice with the cup and non-skid on a prepped, non painted area first to get the right amount of non-skid down. The non-skid was $40 for a quart and the paint was $140. I can't kneel on the deck with out taking skin off but you can walk on it comfortably.

Hey Guys and Gals!

Here's wishing everyone great 2014 boating seasons!

All deck areas on our Tolly are in real good structural condition, however, after 37 yrs the main deck's gel coat has taken a beating. And, the orig teal color on the main deck gets too damn HOT in direct sun. Sooo... I'm contemplating resurfacing that deck with an off white or real light blue color paint. I'm beginning to search for easiest to apply, affordably minded product that can provide years of uninterrupted service and is able to be re coated again when that time of need eventually arrives.

Suggestions appreciated.

Any knowledge on Rustoleum marine paint durability??

http://www.rustoleum.com/search-results/?searchStr=marine paint

Art said:

Hey Guys and Gals!

Here's wishing everyone great 2014 boating seasons!

All deck areas on our Tolly are in real good structural condition, however, after 37 yrs the main deck's gel coat has taken a beating. And, the orig teal color on the main deck gets too damn HOT in direct sun. Sooo... I'm contemplating resurfacing that deck with an off white or real light blue color paint. I'm beginning to search for easiest to apply, affordably minded product that can provide years of uninterrupted service and is able to be re coated again when that time of need eventually arrives.

Suggestions appreciated.

Any knowledge on Rustoleum marine paint durability??

http://www.rustoleum.com/search-results/?searchStr=marine paint

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Art: "easiest to apply, affordably minded product that can provide years of uninterrupted service". Are we talking boats here?

If you re-gelcoat you'll get the longest life. Two part paint should last you 5-10 years based on traffic. No experience with Rustoleum but have used both AwlGrip and AwlCraft. AwlGrip lasts longer than the AwlCraft but is not as easy to apply IMHO because of cure times

Larry M said:

Art: "easiest to apply, affordably minded product that can provide years of uninterrupted service". Are we talking boats here?

If you re-gelcoat you'll get the longest life. Two part paint should last you 5-10 years based on traffic. No experience with Rustoleum but have used both AwlGrip and AwlCraft. AwlGrip lasts longer that the AwlCraft but is not as easy to apply IMHO because of cure times

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Thanks for input on coatings, Larry

Yeah - guess that was an oxymoron marine statement I made! - LOL

stevensibs said:

Couple of questions for you guys...Brian, what is "ground up tennis balls". Is that Kiwi Grip? Does it get dirty and if so, is it easy to clean?

Larry M. what kind of non-skid did YOU use? Dirty...easy to clean?
Thanks

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Steve
"ground up tennis balls" is literally what it is. Starting product is used white tennis balls. I have only used a soft brush and water to clean. I'm sure soaps are OK, but would avoid harsh solvent type cleaners.

Take a look at these guys: Moby Deck Coating System
I think they sell the product as "Get-a-grip" granules. Their whole paint system is highly recommended. When applying you just run up the edge of an adjacent surface about 1/8" and the gap stays sealed due to its flexible nature.

Best of all there is some softness to the non-slip surface. You might still get gravel rash if you fall and slide on it, but it has some 'give' to the touch and when walking on it. Their paints can be tinted to whatever you like. I have AwlGrip 'moondust' on the foredeck, and they matched it for my Mobydeck on the boat deck.

Use the 'Junior system', and if the material is warm you can paint it on. The 'Senior system' might be better for some areas but is more tricky to apply - I was told that you 'trowel' it on rather than paint it. Could be a challenge to get a half decent finish unless you have trade skills in that type of activity. The 'Junior System' kinda smoothes itself flat in the process of drying. Put the 'tennis balls' on top of a wet coat with a suitable shaker. When paint is dry sweep off loose material then apply another topcoat of paint.

I like the urethane products, Sanitred in particular. I've been using a product called LinerExtreeme lately, mostly on small aluminum boats. Its a spray on truck bedliner type urethane, comes in a few colors and courseness is variable depending on rubber granule size used. Easy to use, and fairly cheap on ebay. The secret is to tape and cover everything and everwhere you dont want it. I would not suggest doing it in your marina. It is exceedingly durable, itsa bedliner after all, for trucks. Sanitred is a little more involved and complicated, but is not sprayed so not so much taping or covering. Its easier to build in a "pattern" with Sanitred. Another alternative, that I have used in the past, is the composite decking sold by Trex and Choice Deck. They are an extruded poly/wood mix used for backyard decks. Mostly plastic, polyethyline IIRC. Anyway, I cut it to about 1/2 inch thick and 2 inches wide, milled 3, 3/8 inch dovetail grooves in the underside and glued it down with 3m 7200, using screws and large fender washers between planks to hold it all down. Removed the screws and filled the holes with 7200. It was a very messy job, but 10 years later it still looks good. The reason for the dovetail is that the plastic doesnt glue very well, so more surface area and a mechanical connection of sorts. I will probably use this application on the cockpit of my trawler when the time comes. It looks kinda like teak, without the upkeep. And its fairly cool even in the sun.

>And its fairly cool even in the sun.<

This can be one reason for using teak ,temperature, douche it with a pail and it remains cool underfoot till the water leaves.

The other good reason is its no skid value if left natural.

NO brush on or spray on coating will give the yachty teak eye candy look , so why bother with imitations?

We chose Treadmaster , great no skid , and does hold some water to cool for a while.

kulas44 said:

...glued it down with 3m 7200...

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Do you mean 3M 5200? Pictures?

7200 is a 3m polyurethane. 3200,4200,5200,7200, all different durometer types, 7200 being the stiffest. I've also used some of the windshield adhesives, like Window Weld, with good results. When I need a cheap polyurethane glue in a caulk tube I generally use PL door an window. 3M stuff is expensive. Sanitred Permaflex can be thickend enough and spread with a notched trowel but has to be colored because it doesnt come in black. I dont have any pics, it was on a boat that I sold. I do have a test peice still. It is 2 ft x 4 ft, glued to 3/4 marine ply. I use it as a walkon spot to clean my boots befor going in the shop. It has been in the rain and sun, hot and cold, etc laying on the ground with no help at all, ever, and still looks good.