Battery Terminals
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Edelweiss
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I wish. . . At coffee this morning, one of my friends was chatting with a man at another table who owns a local trucking company.
He mentioned he took delivery of a new (truck) tractor and the battery terminals were clamp style instead of the lead pinch/bolt style, post and wing nut. I haven't seen anything new, but my style terminals are 40 plus year old technology. Just wondering if there was something new and better out there?
He mentioned he took delivery of a new (truck) tractor and the battery terminals were clamp style instead of the lead pinch/bolt style, post and wing nut. I haven't seen anything new, but my style terminals are 40 plus year old technology. Just wondering if there was something new and better out there?
N4712
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We just had to make a cable because one wasn't long enough with our new style battery posts. We did it at west marine, used one of those crumpets that you use a sledge hammer. Worked great!
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fryedaze
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I like these. Best Place to buy Military Battery Terminals - Expedition Portal
I stole this fromm FF on a previous "Battery Terminal" discussion
I stole this fromm FF on a previous "Battery Terminal" discussion
N4712
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Those are for round posts which is not optimal for marine because they could vibrate off and arc which creates resistance. We had those style and had to buy the batteries with blades, luckily they used round post to bolt on stud converter, so we didn't have to break out the crimpers and battery cable.
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Sunset
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If you have a bunch more to do, Harbor Freight carries a big crimper for $50 that seems to do a better clamping job than the West one. But by the time you buy all the parts and the tools you might find it cheaper to order pre-made cables online.
fryedaze
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I agree Sunset. If you are doing a lot of wiring chages you can't beat having your own hydraulic crimper. Mine has paid for itself ten fold already.
8 Ton Hydraulic Wire Terminal Crimper Battery Cable Lug Crimping Tool 9 Dies | eBay
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All this crimping is great but don't forget the good quality heat shrink. 
ksanders
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I have similar but non hydraulic crimper, actually two. One is for 2-6 awg and the other is for up to 4/0
I don't know how anybody gets by without them for any serious electrical work.
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I will only have the basic battery-room cabling requiring big-time crimping. I did get a decent crimper for the smaller wires. When I'm done measuring in there I will have to decide whether pre-made cables (24, 36, 72) will get the job done or whether I need custom lengths and a crimper. I already have a large bin of slowly rusting never-used tools for my compressor! :lol:
Are we talking about the terminals that attach to the battery or how to attach them to the cable?
Batteries for marine use should have threaded stud terminals so the correct terminal on the cable should be a ring terminal. And throw away the wingnut that may come on the battery. Use a standard SS hex nut.
For attaching the terminal to the cable, buy your cable and terminals at West Marine and they will let you use their crimper for free. Or order everything from Marine Wiring, Boat Cable and Electrical Genuinedealz.com or similar vendors and they will install the terminals for a nominal fee.
Batteries for marine use should have threaded stud terminals so the correct terminal on the cable should be a ring terminal. And throw away the wingnut that may come on the battery. Use a standard SS hex nut.
For attaching the terminal to the cable, buy your cable and terminals at West Marine and they will let you use their crimper for free. Or order everything from Marine Wiring, Boat Cable and Electrical Genuinedealz.com or similar vendors and they will install the terminals for a nominal fee.
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Batteries for marine use should have threaded stud terminals so the correct terminal on the cable should be a ring terminal. And throw away the wingnut that may come on the battery. Use a standard SS hex nut.
This is for tiny batteries such as used on an IO boat.
For larger batts ( golf cart, 8-D or L-16 or bigger) the FLAG style terminal is preferred , and for non marine round terminal batts the NAPA military conversion unit comes fairly close to the proper flag terminal in use.
Most commercial battery folks (not boat parts shops) can order what style terminal you prefer , given a bit of notice.
This is frequently the best way to order batts as they will usually come from the same mfg. batch.
>Use a standard SS hex nut.< NOT
The SS nuts should be replaced with copper nuts and washers , esp if a high load is expected. Bow thruster, Windlass , Inverter etc.
This is for tiny batteries such as used on an IO boat.
For larger batts ( golf cart, 8-D or L-16 or bigger) the FLAG style terminal is preferred , and for non marine round terminal batts the NAPA military conversion unit comes fairly close to the proper flag terminal in use.
Most commercial battery folks (not boat parts shops) can order what style terminal you prefer , given a bit of notice.
This is frequently the best way to order batts as they will usually come from the same mfg. batch.
>Use a standard SS hex nut.< NOT
The SS nuts should be replaced with copper nuts and washers , esp if a high load is expected. Bow thruster, Windlass , Inverter etc.
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windmist
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Dave, do you have one of these? If so, how is it holding up? Too bad it doesn't go up to 4/0. It sure is a good price for a crimper.
Ron
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Yes, I have one that I have used for all my battery and wiring upgrades over the last two years. Works well, no complaints here. It comes with replacement seals in the kit. Havent had any leaks on mine They sell a 10 ton and 16 ton version on ebay. The 16 ton is about $75 and it will handle 4/0.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Ton-Hydr...956?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item485bd66a94
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Tom.B
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I went for a really nice one. This was like $250 and works really well. The downside is that at 25" long, it's clumsy in tight spaces, but I just make them in the salon rather than in the ER. I really like it though. I never have to change dyes or anything. It's all built into the "chuck". Still, at $250, I will take it to my grave that it's the best think since sliced bread ;-) Draw your own conclusions, but now I know it will work forever without breaking.
Here is where I learned a LOT about making battery cables: Making Your Own Battery Cables Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
Here is where I learned a LOT about making battery cables: Making Your Own Battery Cables Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
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CPseudonym
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Dave, if you liked the link to PBase Tom provided you'd also likely enjoy this link too. I believe they are the same author.
Musings With Maine Sail - SailboatOwners.com
Both are excellent resources that I refer to often.
I went for a really nice one. This was like $250 and works really well. The downside is that at 25" long, it's clumsy in tight spaces, but I just make them in the salon rather than in the ER. I really like it though. I never have to change dyes or anything. It's all built into the "chuck". Still, at $250, I will take it to my grave that it's the best think since sliced bread ;-) Draw your own conclusions, but now I know it will work forever without breaking.
That looks like the one they let you use for free at West Marine. Sometimes the guy will use it for you, other times you have to do it yourself.
I bought the Harbor Freight tool and while it does the job, it's not a well built professional quality tool. I suspect the ones on ebay are the same.
Tom.B
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Before you guys go to Harbor Freight for a crimper, read Page 3 & 4 of MainSail's new addition to his 'Making Your Own Cables' article. It's pretty telling how badly that HF hydraulic crimping tool is made, or at the very least, how poor a connection it makes if used as advertised. Certainly, YMMV, but I am a big believer in "the-right-tool-for-the-right-job" mantra ;-) But hey... That's just me.
Making Your Own Battery Cables Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
Making Your Own Battery Cables Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com
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Tom, thanks for posting the info. I have the hydraulic crimper and I got my eyes opened by reading the link. I think it could be as good a tool as the manual crimp ( I also have a manual crimp tool) if the correct dies are used. The key is not to smash the the lugs and probably use larger dies. That said it burns me that the dies are wrong!
And I have one in NC if anyone wants to borrow it here too. 
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Nice offer Rob. I may take you up on that sometime this spring. Jay
CPseudonym
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Dave, return it to Harbor Freight as they accept returns without receipt if needed. My neighbor shops there often and told me of their policy.
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