Hose Clamps

Moonstruck · Dec 23, 2013

I mentioned these in another thread. during an engine room check, I discovered some rust stain under a hose clamp on the dripless shaft log. Upon further checking the screws on the clamps were starting to rust. Since there were 4 clamps on each shaft log, there were 8 to replace. I went to the local WM because of the late hour. Picked up clamps at $8.25 each. Started changing the clamps. They would start to feel snug, but would not tighten. One even just pulled out by hand.

The clamps did not look as usual, but they assured me that they were good. Instead of having cut outs for the screw threads they had been crimped. Took them back to WM and went to Marine Connection the next morning to pick up better clamps at $1.50 ea. I explained to the WM store that the clamps could cause a boat to sink. Please don't put them back in stock. They didn't seem verry concerned.

I am telling this to bring awareness about a possible problem. That was my experience. YMMV.

psneeld · Dec 23, 2013

Moonstruck said:
I mentioned these in another thread. during an engine room check, I discovered some rust stain under a hose clamp on the dripless shaft log. Upon further checking the screws on the clamps were starting to rust. Since there were 4 clamps on each shaft log, there were 8 to replace. I went to the local WM because of the late hour. Picked up clamps at $8.25 each. Started changing the clamps. They would start to feel snug, but would not tighten. One even just pulled out by hand.

The clamps did not look as usual, but they assured me that they were good. Instead of having cut outs for the screw threads they had been crimped. Took them back to WM and went to Marine Connection the next morning to pick up better clamps at $1.50 ea. I explained to the WM store that the clamps could cause a boat to sink. Please don't put them back in stock. They didn't seem verry concerned.

I am telling this to bring awareness about a possible problem. That was my experience. YMMV.

Actually the non-slit clamps are supposed to be better/stronger...but obviously they have to be made correctly....West is usually pretty insistent on carrying better than average and certainly not poor quality stuff.

I'm sure the higher ups in the company would be interested in both quality control and the lack of interest by the store (which doesn't surprise me for some but not most West employee's as they often seem caring even if pretty inexperienced with the merchandise).

If you care to pursue let me know...I used to have a contact in product testing...I would think he would be very interested.

AWAB LLC

Moonstruck · Dec 23, 2013

psneeld said:
Actually the non-slit clamps are supposed to be better/stronger...but obviously they have to be made correctly....West is usually pretty insistent on carrying better than average and certainly not poor quality stuff.

I'm sure the higher ups in the company would be interested in both quality control and the lack of interest by the store (which doesn't surprise me for some but not most West employee's as they often seem caring even if pretty inexperienced with the merchandise).

If you care to pursue let me know...I used to have a contact in product testing...I would think he would be very interested.

AWAB LLC

I would be happy to discuss it with them. The problem seemed to be in the stainless stamping of whatever they would call the part that holds screw down on the clamp. I showed them that in the store. If the screw is not tight against the band, it will not hold. I was not going to trust my boat to that.

psneeld · Dec 23, 2013

Moonstruck said:
I would be happy to discuss it with them. The problem seemed to be in the stainless stamping of whatever they would call the part that holds screw down on the clamp. I showed them that in the store. If the screw is not tight against the band, it will not hold. I was not going to trust my boat to that.

seems like every other hose clamp I take off the screw backs out instead of the clamp loosening...makes me think of alternatives to expensive non-working items....

DavidM · Dec 23, 2013

The rusting hose clamps that you removed are the worst of the worse. They have a carbon steel screw with a perforated SS band.

The next better, but not good is a stainless steel screw with perforated band.

The best is a stainless steel screw, 316 SS band with no perforations, smooth inside and a rolled edge. AWAB makes these and are one of the best. Defender sells them in the $2-4.00 range depending on size.

The one you got from WM was probably Chinese made and they tried to get it right, but didn't.

David

ancora · Dec 23, 2013

Now this here is a hose clamp. I get them at a chandlery where the pro's get their stuff, not WM. Not cheap but worth the peace of mind.

skipperdude · Dec 23, 2013

ancora said:
Now this here is a hose clamp. I get them at a chandlery where the pro's get their stuff, not WM. Not cheap but worth the peace of mind.

I gotta get me some of those

SD

FF · Dec 23, 2013

At your local big box house store they have screwdrivers that have inserts to change from small straight or Philips driver.

These handles with the bits out will fit most hex head hose clamps and are far better for tightening or adjusting .

Best $5.00 you will ever spend if the hose clamps are in a hard to reach spot.

Poach · Dec 23, 2013

FF said:
At your local big box house store they have screwdrivers that have inserts to change from small straight or Philips driver.

These handles with the bits out will fit most hex head hose clamps and are far better for tightening or adjusting .

Best $5.00 you will ever spend if the hose clamps are in a hard to reach spot.

I agree having the right tool makes a world of difference. I have a stand-alone hex nut driver that fits the clamps.

psneeld · Dec 23, 2013

after seeing how many automotive companies have changed from traditional clamps to everything including tie wraps....and seeing how hard it is to remove the average hose on a fitting.....for those hoses under suction/low pressure I just wonder if ALL these clamps are just a waste of money....

I have come across probably hundreds or thousands of hoses with broken or loose clamps that never leaked a drop...makes you wonder....

Peter B · Dec 23, 2013

I'm with you there PS. I have no issues getting hoses on - only ever getting' em off…but...I have seen over-clamping actually cut through hoses.

Forkliftt · Dec 23, 2013

ancora said:
Now this here is a hose clamp. I get them at a chandlery where the pro's get their stuff, not WM. Not cheap but worth the peace of mind.

T clamps are the best clamp ever, but sizing can be an issue as their min - max range is not as broad as a traditional hose clamp.

MC Escher · Dec 23, 2013

I know I'm new at this, but I'm surprised that A/N fittings aren't more common boats.

DavidM · Dec 23, 2013

Hoses are hard to get off, but once you take them off they will often leak if you don't tighten down the hose clamp when you put them back on.

A few days ago I took off the raw water hose from the thruhull to the raw water pump. I had to really crank down on the hose clamp to get it to stop leaking when I put it back on.

Hmm, I think it was the perforated type. Better replace it.

David

psneeld · Dec 23, 2013

when hoses and barb fitting are new...they are almost like push-lock fittings these days...once on...you have to cut them off to adjust...

I'm not too worried about leaks as long as I keep my hoses and fittings fresh...I'd rather feel good about them than worry if a clamp is up to specs or fatigued or rusting without me knowing it.

Peter B · Dec 24, 2013

djmarchand said:
Hoses are hard to get off, but once you take them off they will often leak if you don't tighten down the hose clamp when you put them back on.
David

Huh…I've never managed to get a hose on the boat off yet and be able to put it back on. I've had to cut it to free it every time.

Bay Pelican · Dec 24, 2013

Pete have you tried a heat gun and either a flat head screw driver or a channel lock pliers? I have yet to have to cut off a hose, although I have done so when I was discarding the hose.

Marty

FF · Dec 24, 2013

>I have yet to have to cut off a hose, although I have done so when I was discarding the hose.<

Folks replacing hoses might consider extra length , so they can cut off an inch during service, and still replace the hose.

Peter B · Dec 24, 2013

FF said:
>I have yet to have to cut off a hose, although I have done so when I was discarding the hose.<

Folks replacing hoses might consider extra length , so they can cut off an inch during service, and still replace the hose.

Yup, that's what I tend to do FF. I have tried the that heat gun thing - usually use that to get them on as well, but I always feel one damages them a bit doing that, so would rather cut and start with fresh end.

jleonard · Dec 24, 2013

Bay Pelican said:
Pete have you tried a heat gun and either a flat head screw driver or a channel lock pliers? I have yet to have to cut off a hose, although I have done so when I was discarding the hose.

Marty

There is a tool called a "hose pick" that will make it easy to remove a hose without damaging it. It really works well. I have used them for several years.
My son is an auto mechaninc and he uses them all the time. I was watching him once a few years a said I have to have one of those.
They come in various sizes.

Here's a set at Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-KD...UTF8&qid=1387890347&sr=8-2&keywords=hose+pick

I think Craftsman sells a 4 piece set for not much money. If you use one once you will never use a screwdriver again.

timjet · Dec 24, 2013

For you folks that have Cummins B series engines, the hoses that connect the aftercooler to the tranny cooler are located directly above the air intake. Get the best clamps money can buy for these hoses. Don't ask how I know.

RickB · Dec 24, 2013

psneeld said:
I have come across probably hundreds or thousands of hoses with broken or loose clamps that never leaked a drop...makes you wonder....

It provides job security for surveyors.

ancora · Dec 24, 2013

I use this stuff on my hoses. Works really good on exhaust hoses that tend to get warm.

psneeld · Dec 24, 2013

ancora said:
I use this stuff on my hoses. Works really good on exhaust hoses that tend to get warm.

I think it says "copper formula" on the label...people need to be careful using that anywhere near aluminum parts on an engine or any other system that may see salt water.

Lot's of anti-seize compounds actually cause more problems than they help on boats if you aren't careful....but I bet this stuff is fine and works well on hoses going to iron or steel.

DinghyDog · Dec 24, 2013

Recommend Forspar Lanacote. Helps seal and facilites hose removal by re-lubricating the connection when a bit of heat (hair dryer with patience or less with heat gun) is applied.

Poach · Dec 24, 2013

SnapOn makes a set too. I know, because a buddy of mine is a SnapOn dealer. One day he asked to borrow a tool and dropped it in the water. The closest thing he had to a replacement was a set of picks like the ones shown on Amazon. I now lend him any tool he asks for :whistling:

CPseudonym · Dec 24, 2013

FF said:
At your local big box house store they have screwdrivers that have inserts to change from small straight or Philips driver. These handles with the bits out will fit most hex head hose clamps and are far better for tightening or adjusting . Best $5.00 you will ever spend if the hose clamps are in a hard to reach spot.

5/16" nut driver is the tool that emulates. Every boater should have one as it takes the busted knuckles out of hose clamp maintenance.

There's also a T-handle torque wrench available at any plumbing supply house that torques to 60 inch pounds(5 foot pounds). These are great if you are a tool junkie but not very practical if only used on the boat

Edit: Sorry Poach, just saw your post following FF's.

Poach · Dec 24, 2013

CPseudonym said:
5/16" nut driver is the tool that emulates. Every boater should have one as it takes the busted knuckles out of hose clamp maintenance.

There's also a T-handle torque wrench available at any plumbing supply house that torques to 60 inch pounds(5 foot pounds). These are great if you are a tool junkie but not very practical if only used on the boat

Edit: Sorry Poach, just saw your post following FF's.

That's allright Craig. I didn't quote the 5/16"--it seem some are sensitive about size

Keith · Dec 26, 2013

Peter B said:
Huh…I've never managed to get a hose on the boat off yet and be able to put it back on. I've had to cut it to free it every time.

When you put the new one on, a thin coat of clear silicone caulk will help seal any imperfections, yet make the hose easy to remove later. When I bought my boat, the PO had done this, and it was amazingly easy to remove every hose.

HopCar · Dec 26, 2013

Don, many years ago I had a similar experience with the non-perforated clamps. I sold some to a friend. He couldn't tighten them either. I never did figure out why they wouldn't tighten. I've sold thousands of them since, without a problem. I figure if they can be tightened, they will stay tight.

Another type of clamp I'm starting to sell are constant tension clamps. They have a spring mechanism built in that keeps the clamping pressure constant as the hose expands and contracts with heat. Similar to this.

I don't know much about them, but customers were asking for them, so we put them in stock.

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