IG shaft zincs

Greetings,
Mr. o. Why pull the rudder? Lots of rudders have a hole in them to allow the shaft to pass through so, just drill a hole. Some put a round/flat zinc on to cover the hole. KISS

Maybe you are correct to not think it needs truing up...it's just whenever I have heard ANYONE talk about a new shaft coupling...they have always recommended a machine shop to ensure it being a true 90 degrees.

psneeld said:

Maybe you are correct to not think it needs truing up...it's just whenever I have heard ANYONE talk about a new shaft coupling...they have always recommended a machine shop to ensure it being a true 90 degrees.

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I have also always heard that. Plus if you think about it, this would minimize any error that might have been induced when the coupling was manufactured. It will never be perfect as machined or after truing, but truing as an assembly will get it the best it can be (if done correctly).
Alignment doesn't allow much error. I think the "rule of thumb" is .001" per inch of diameter max on the parallelism of the flange faces.

Sometimes shaft couplings are hard to get off because of a shear pin that can go un-noticed.

OK more ideas. Hole or notch in the rudder is an interesting option.

Yes the shear pin/bolt has been removed, to my surprise it came off easily.

I agree there is no better than facing of the flange on the shaft. I have also been told that it is common practice to do it that way.

I have yet to get back to the boat, today I am going to attempt one more time to remove the existing flange if that fails then I have the cutting tool with me.

It is likely that I will be replacing the flange and if so I think I am going the measure the new one before pulling the shaft. It is not a big chore and if I do find it to be true then it saves a bunch of work. If not then I lost nothing but a few minuets.

This is a long way from shaft zincs, thanks for hanging in.

The boat gods were with me, it moved. It is fighting me all the way but it is going. I didn't get it all the way off was interrupted by a friend good thing my arm was about to fall off. It is about half way out and moves easier as I go.

I had the grinder in my hand, now what am I going to do with all thees cutting wheels?

Happy holidays

Great news!

jleonard said:

I have also always heard that. Plus if you think about it, this would minimize any error that might have been induced when the coupling was manufactured. It will never be perfect as machined or after truing, but truing as an assembly will get it the best it can be (if done correctly).
Alignment doesn't allow much error. I think the "rule of thumb" is .001" per inch of diameter max on the parallelism of the flange faces.

Click to expand...

That's what I have heard from a LOT of people in the boating business and I certainly strive for it when aligning...

However in recent years...guys I really respect in this industry have smiled and smirked when I bring it up....

More than one has said that the average engine rubber isolation mounts allow way more motion of the engine than that .001" per inch of flange...I tend to agree after seeing many engine installs and shaft suppots from cutless bearings to struts, etc that certainly induce way more than that .001.

So I don't sweat it when aligning...I do a quick one looking for tolerance...then move on...

Heck it's usually a struggle just to hold the sag of the shaft , redo after the rough says it's OK, then engage the lip of the tranny flange into the hollow of the shaft flange, redo the measurement and hope I'm on target...

psneeld said:

That's what I have heard from a LOT of people in the boating business and I certainly strive for it when aligning...

However in recent years...guys I really respect in this industry have smiled and smirked when I bring it up....

More than one has said that the average engine rubber isolation mounts allow way more motion of the engine than that .001" per inch of flange...I tend to agree after seeing many engine installs and shaft suppots from cutless bearings to struts, etc that certainly induce way more than that .001.

So I don't sweat it when aligning...I do a quick one looking for tolerance...then move on...

Heck it's usually a struggle just to hold the sag of the shaft , redo after the rough says it's OK, then engage the lip of the tranny flange into the hollow of the shaft flange, redo the measurement and hope I'm on target...

Click to expand...

Interesting you say that, I have a similar respected friend that basically gave me the same smirk and made the comment regarding the slow rotation shaft as opposed to the 3K plus. Fortunately for me its a non issue at this point.