Bow Eye?

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N4712

Guru
Joined
Apr 22, 2013
Messages
3,607
Location
U.S.A
Vessel Name
Oliver
Vessel Make
Nordhavn 47 Hull# 12
So my next question on the pursuit of good ground tackle, our Nordy has a bow eye. Should I get a rope spliced to it and run it up the second roller on our pulpit and use it
For anchoring out bye connecting the end of it to the rode via soft shackle or should it be used for only getting towed? don't crucify me I'm still fairly new to all anchoring and anchor setups.
 
Thats the way to do it. Reduces the amount of rode needed for scope.
 
Another way it's commonly used is to run a line down through the eye, then back up to the pulpit so both ends of the line are up there. Then attach one end to your anchor chain and let the chain out until the joint is below the water line. Now use the other end to adjust the length to suit the situation. That way the snubber line attaches to the chain only a few feet below the eye instead of 10-15 below.
 
Another way it's commonly used is to run a line down through the eye, then back up to the pulpit so both ends of the line are up there. Then attach one end to your anchor chain and let the chain out until the joint is below the water line. Now use the other end to adjust the length to suit the situation. That way the snubber line attaches to the chain only a few feet below the eye instead of 10-15 below.
Not sure I'm getting your explanation, so just use the eye as a pass through for the line and tie it to the cleat on deck?
 
Not sure I'm getting your explanation, so just use the eye as a pass through for the line and tie it to the cleat on deck?

Have a 20' section of 5/8" 3 strand line made up with thimbles on both ends, attach end #1. at the bow eye with a s.s. shackle and seize it.

End #2. add a chain hook or a shackle that will fit through the chain. When NOT in use keep it cleated tight at the bow roller. When anchoring, when you have the correct scope down, attach the chain hook/shackle (depending on which one you used ) and let out enough chain to add enough droop that the chain hangs below the snubber attachment point by about 10' ( unless your in 8' if water ).

The 3 strand will take the shock load and lower the C.E. on the rode.

Your guest in the fwd. stateroom will love you as they will not have to listen to the chain grind around on the bow roller as the boat swings at anchor.

The downside is there is no boat noise to hide the guests grinding around in the fwd. stateroom!
:socool:

HOLLYWOOD

the image attached shows the right idea... but not enough chain slack
 

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Have a 20' section of 5/8" 3 strand line made up with thimbles on both ends, attach end #1. at the bow eye with a s.s. shackle and seize it. End #2. add a chain hook or a shackle that will fit through the chain. When NOT in use keep it cleated tight at the bow roller. When anchoring, when you have the correct scope down, attach the chain hook/shackle (depending on which one you used ) and let out enough chain to add enough droop that the chain hangs below the snubber attachment point by about 10' ( unless your in 8' if water ). The 3 strand will take the shock load and lower the C.E. on the rode. Your guest in the fwd. stateroom will love you as they will not have to listen to the chain grind around on the bow roller as the boat swings at anchor. The downside is there is no boat noise to hide the guests grinding around in the fwd. stateroom! :socool: HOLLYWOOD the image attached shows the right idea... but not enough chain slack
Thanks Hollywood, I'll get one made. :)
 
I disagree. You do not want your anchor snubber permanently attached to an eye so low. What if you had to let out more scope? With the shackle attached to your bow eye you'll first have to retrieve chain in order to let out more. When you need to let out more scope the conditions are probably not benign.

For Seaweed (and I have two eyes, one at waterline and installed a second up about 15") I found it near impossible to get good system in place using either.

Instead I have a length of 3-strand 5/8" black line with a loop at one end. It goes over the samson post and with a simple rolling hitch I tie to the chain. Then I let out approximately 20' more chain and voila: problem solved.

The chain doesn't rattle and the snubber takes the bounce (when conditions are dicey) without issue. If I had to let out more scope I'd just take the loop off the samson post and attach another line.

But that's just my opinion. Maybe others have a way to use their bow eye more effectively than I've managed. And no, the line has never come untied nor has it been difficult to untie. It's really a miracle knot.
 
Not sure I'm getting your explanation, so just use the eye as a pass through for the line and tie it to the cleat on deck?

Yes, that's right. With no anchor deployed, both ends of the line are cleated off up on deck. When you deploy the anchor, you send one end of the line down with the anchor chain, and use the end that's still on deck to adjust the length. The line always just passes through the eye.
 
I also prefer a rolling hitch on the anchor chain with the ends secured on deck. I've seen a chain rapped around the line from opposing current and wind that was quite the mess to untangle. I don't know how you would deal with that from deck level if the line was secured to the bow eye.
 
Yes, that's right. With no anchor deployed, both ends of the line are cleated off up on deck. When you deploy the anchor, you send one end of the line down with the anchor chain, and use the end that's still on deck to adjust the length. The line always just passes through the eye.
Ahh, ok I get it now.
 
I disagree. You do not want your anchor snubber permanently attached to an eye so low. What if you had to let out more scope? With the shackle attached to your bow eye you'll first have to retrieve chain in order to let out more. When you need to let out more scope the conditions are probably not benign.

For Seaweed (and I have two eyes, one at waterline and installed a second up about 15") I found it near impossible to get good system in place using either.

Instead I have a length of 3-strand 5/8" black line with a loop at one end. It goes over the samson post and with a simple rolling hitch I tie to the chain. Then I let out approximately 20' more chain and voila: problem solved.

The chain doesn't rattle and the snubber takes the bounce (when conditions are dicey) without issue. If I had to let out more scope I'd just take the loop off the samson post and attach another line.

But that's just my opinion. Maybe others have a way to use their bow eye more effectively than I've managed. And no, the line has never come untied nor has it been difficult to untie. It's really a miracle knot.

Not every solution works for every boat,

On a boat such as yours with a low bow the eye at the w/l doesn't make much difference.. on the bow of a Nordhavn its way up there and it makes a big difference.

As far as the " hassle " to retrieve 20' of chain to get to the hook.... step on the black button and count to 20.

The way a boat reacts in a anchorage with swell is quite different as you lower the pull point.

HOLLYWOOD
 
Not every solution works for every boat, On a boat such as yours with a low bow the eye at the w/l doesn't make much difference.. on the bow of a Nordhavn its way up there and it makes a big difference. As far as the " hassle " to retrieve 20' of chain to get to the hook.... step on the black button and count to 20. The way a boat reacts in a anchorage with swell is quite different as you lower the pull point. HOLLYWOOD
Yep, if I remember correctly our bow is 8ft off the water. One minute with the windlass done. :)
 
Yep, if I remember correctly our bow is 8ft off the water. One minute with the windlass done. :)

And Nordhavn didn't put it there to attach to the hand winch on the trailer so you could launch it at a boat ramp!

HOLLYWOOD

:facepalm:
 
More than one line can be fixed to a bow eye .

All should be short enough not to foul the prop if let overboard.

The reason for 3 or so is the thinnest , 3/8 can be used most of the time to get the best stretch out of the nylon.

This gives the smoothest ride and lowest snatch load on the anchor.

We used to simply use a sail boat snap shakel to fix the line to chain.

Now that we no longer anchor in coral areas the entire anchor line is nylon , so no need for stinkey weak chain .
 
Here's an quote from Denver rope. we got our towing bridle for our 16 ft skiff for the camano from them. Does that price sound right?
 

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I have a bit of a different perspective on Anchor Snubbers. I used to be a big fan because they reduced the chain noise so much when I was sleeping in a forward stateroom. With the N47 and a mid-master stateroom, there really isn't any chain noise any more. The guests in the forward cabin don't seem to notice it either.

I have found that simply securing the chain in the chain stopper allows me to get the boat underway really fast when some idiot drags into me in the middle of the night. That has happened a few times during strong thunderstorms and not having to futz with removing the snubber at Oh Dark Hundred while dodging bumper boats makes me sleep better.

I have also found that there really isn't much difference in boat motion between hanging the chain on the snubber or on the chain stopper (if you let out the same amount of chain). I suspect it's because the N47 weighs almost 100,000 lbs. so the chain catenary isn't much different between the two methods at the typical water depths I anchor in.

YMMV, but I rarely use the snubber any more.
 
I have a bit of a different perspective on Anchor Snubbers. I used to be a big fan because they reduced the chain noise so much when I was sleeping in a forward stateroom. With the N47 and a mid-master stateroom, there really isn't any chain noise any more. The guests in the forward cabin don't seem to notice it either. I have found that simply securing the chain in the chain stopper allows me to get the boat underway really fast when some idiot drags into me in the middle of the night. That has happened a few times during strong thunderstorms and not having to futz with removing the snubber at Oh Dark Hundred while dodging bumper boats makes me sleep better. I have also found that there really isn't much difference in boat motion between hanging the chain on the snubber or on the chain stopper (if you let out the same amount of chain). I suspect it's because the N47 weighs almost 100,000 lbs. so the chain catenary isn't much different between the two methods at the typical water depths I anchor in. YMMV, but I rarely use the snubber any more.
Thanks, I'll get the snubber just to have it incase. Also I need to make a soot sock like on your blog, so I don't black out the boats next to me on an windy day. :D
 
Also I need to make a soot sock like on your blog, so I don't black out the boats next to me on an windy day. :D

It's embarrassing the first time you soot your neighbor's freshly washed boat!

Oops! :eek:

If you keep the rain out of the stack and run your engine hot periodically, it will rarely happen, even without the soot sock.
 
It's embarrassing the first time you soot your neighbor's freshly washed boat! Oops! :eek: If you keep the rain out of the stack and run your engine hot periodically, it will rarely happen, even without the soot sock.
What about that ball valve at the bottom of the exhaust riser in the ER , maybe I should leave it open and put a bucket under it?
 
What about that ball valve at the bottom of the exhaust riser in the ER , maybe I should leave it open and put a bucket under it?

I don't leave mine open and I've never seen anything but rust dust come out of it. And we get a lot of rain up here, but usually not as heavy as you get it down there! ;-)
 
I don't leave mine open and I've never seen anything but rust dust come out of it. And we get a lot of rain up here, but usually not as heavy as you get it down there! ;-)
Oh ok.
 
For what it's worth, I've got two bow eyes on my dinghy.
 
For what it's worth, I've got two bow eyes on my dinghy.

Me too -- one on the inside attachment point for anchor and when attaching to davit. The other outside, and also used. I always use both attachment points but Algae is the family "car" so I want to make sure she doesn't escape. And when I am charging the battery (she uses a trolling motor) I attach a third line to her at mid-ships.

On Algae I through-bolted a pair of eye-bolts at mid-ship. When I come home with a full load of groceries I snap her at the center and it makes unloading the dink easier. Just like Seaweed, there's little wobble when snugged at the middle.

AlgaeEmpty.jpg

Algae's kind of ragged, but she's had a pretty hard life since 1972. The fenders around the outside look like heck but add tremendously to her stability. I can stand in the bottom of the boat at the edge and she's not even tippy. That said, I don't know if a 200 pound man could stand there. But if someone wants to volunteer, let me get my camera first and have at it! :angel:
 
You asked for it!
I'm still relatively new to TF, but Mark you seem to have a picture for every situation on a boat. If that's so. Do you have a picture of fixing the head? :D :p
 
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