Doghouse Rebuild

I'm finally making some progress on the doghouse. I goofed up and didn't take any "before" pics.* You wouldn't believe the difference.

So far, she's looking pretty good, IMHO.* I don't have any professional tools (or skills for that matter) but a simple Craftsman table saw and router table seem to be up to the task.

On Cap'n Chuck's recommendation I will be sealing everything with West epoxy.* I was considering white paint for a topcoat, because it's easy.* But the SO nixed that idea, it has to have a more natural finish.* Any suggestions? Will Cetol go on over the epoxy OK?

I'm still looking for the gasket material that goes in the perimeter grooves.* I'll start hitting the mom-and-pop hardware stores in the area.* Those places have no end of obscure bits and pieces.* Not to mention knowledgeable staff.

I haven't decided yet on clear or tinted glass (or acrylic) for the windows.

For the*heavy weather areas I use West Wystem clear epoxy first which protect the wood with a few clear coats a varnish which helps protect the epoxy from sun.** Interlux Gold Spar clear is a Polyurethane that* I use and holds up well. *


-- Edited by Phil Fill on Friday 12th of March 2010 10:36:05 AM

Very nice results! Tinted Lexan or plexi would look really good and keep the cabin cooler.

I did mine a few months ago and put Epifanes on it.

BL,
Very nice work!!

Looks good. Did you find the gaskets, I need some of the same for my doghouse?

Thanks, guys.

No gasket material yet.* I hope to make the h/w store circuit this weekend.* But with the weather forecast of sunny and upper 60's/lower 70's I think it may be time to pull the tarp and have at some real spring prep.

Hiya,
** Wooo Hoooo....tarp off time.* Always an exciting event!* Tarp off, stowed, good wash-up, Ahhaaa....time to start "the list" or add onto last years' list.* Good for you*Mr. BL...enjoy.

Your doghouse looks great.* This is still on my to-do list, but I'd planned to remove only the "lids" for stripping and varnish, and doing the rest in place. Can you describe how you took the base of the structure off the boat?

ARoss wrote:Your doghouse looks great.* This is still on my to-do list, but I'd planned to remove only the "lids" for stripping and varnish, and doing the rest in place. Can you describe how you took the base of the structure off the boat?

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It didn't come off my boat, I bought it from another MT owner.* He took a sawzall and cut through the deck all around the hatch opening and lifted the whole thing out! You would have loved a "before" picture.

I will have to make a few adjustments to my hatch coaming to get a good fit; trim a little off fore & aft, add fillers port & starboard.

*

The weather has really (and finally!) turned around and Spring commissioning has begun.* It's not looking good for finishing up the doghouse this season.

Looks great, your new doghouse. Now you just need to do that canopy extension, Baltimore, and you're away. I can tell you, it really transforms the boat. Best thing we ever did.

Peter - I'm getting closer to the canopy job.* That's something I can't do myself so I won't be constrained by time or weather.* Just $!

Still to do this Spring - all the regular stuff + set up the windlass (got a nice SL555 off e-bay over the winter), upgrade the holding tank vent (I'm going with the lots of fresh air and aerobic bacteria school of thought to try to fix the odor issue) and hopefully install a wheel pilot (another e-bay purchase that's being shipped right now)

- Darrell

What wheel pilot did you go for B? As you know, that's one thing still on my list as well.

Peter:

It's an ancient Autohelm 3000.* It's so old, I believe it's an analog unit.* Surprised there's no vacuum tubes!* But, it allegedly works just fine.

It doesn't do any slick stuff like cloverleafs, figure 8's zig-zags or contour following, but it should hold a reasonably steady course for a decent period of time.* And, I'm not sure, but I may be able to eventually replace the control head with a newer model and interface with my also no-longer-in-production GPS/Chartplotter.* Which would be cool, but what I really want is that AST feature in the newer models that is supposed to study the helm response and at least partially compensate for the stern being kicked around in following seas.

I don't now about your boat, but mine is an absolute pig when the seas are coming from aft of the beam. I'm used to a much more sea kindly sail boat, so the handling of the MT in following seas was a real surprise.* I was aware of the talk on the subject, just hadn't experienced it first hand.

Thanks Darrell. Well, I'll probably have to go with the new (when I can afford it) Raymarine X5 Smartpilot Wheel Drive Pilot, which does interface, and now has the rate gyro system you mention for best sea-state/course correction, as there is virtually nothing else except the hideously expensive rotary motor, sprocket/chain drive types on our local market, and damn all on local eBay as well. Best of luck in the installation. Autohelm was/is a good make - fitted a tiller drive unit to a yacht which worked well, and actually that brand has morphed into what was Raytheon, now Raymarine anyway, and called here the Autohelm series by Raymarine. However, as you say, the 3000 will do 95% of what you want, and for a lot cheaper no doubt.

Peter:

Yeah, I'm in for only a few hundred $, so if it doesn't work out next year I'll get a new unit.* I'm with you on that rotary motor for the chain drive - just an outrageous price.* I know all boat stuff is overpriced, but this may be a record setter.

- Darrell

Darrell, good luck with the wheel pilot. Like they say, nothing ventured.... etc.
The belt drive looks to be identical to mine. If your belt(s) are old or wind up being the wrong length for your installation, I can probably look up the website where I got a new one a year ago.


al

superdiver wrote:

what exactly is a "doghouse"? I assume its not literal...

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I hope mine turns out as nice as these.

superdiver wrote:

what exactly is a "doghouse"? I assume its not literal...

Click to expand...

The Doghouse. "A raised protective covering abaft the cabin in a small boat, for the steering position and all round visability."

Reference: "A Dictionary for Yachtsmen" by Francis H Burgess 1974

Weather a wheel input AP works depends on the style steering.

If its all cables , rods or chain to steer from the wheel it will work really well.

The hassle is HYD where the wheel is attached to the pump that moves a hyd cylinder.

The usual problem is the pump leaks internally , just a bit , different response going L or R.

This will chance the "center" over time , and can mess up the AP steering .

The work around is simply to time the run time it takes to see how long the AP runs to "loose it".

Many will go a half hour or more , so just turn it off /on every half hour and all is sweet.