Thanks Larry ,Here's a picture of one of Hobo's. We have 2 on each side. I opened them up with a Dremel tool and used TDS caulk. There were originally epoxied but there was to much movement at the joint and a finish wouldn't last. The cap rail is 4" wide.
I looked at others on the dock and all were similar to the Grand Banks in the second picture but the cap rail's were only a few inches wide.
...About how wide is your anchor platform ? I' m rebuilding mine and my old one was to narrow only about 8" or so .
Dang another reason I've got get one of these KK 42's . That's a heck of a platform.Marty: Here are some pictures. It's 3" thick and is horizontally thru bolted and plugged in 4 places not including the anchor rollers. Hope these help. If you need more dimensions we're on the boat and it's a nice day here.
Trying to figure out these aft corners . Kinda going with this but not sure .Any suggestions? This one is messing with my head .
Smaller than the one in the template I made ?Yea it would even look better if you put a rather small inbd knee at the bend. Perhaps the same width as the two existing pcs or a bit smaller.
I could laminate the whole curve but that would take about 45 laminates 1/8" thk. Anything any thicker won't take the bend .the rail is is 4-1/2" wide .As the curve got straighter down the length I increased the width of laminates. The last sections that were the straightest my laminations were 3/4" thick .
I was unsure of what to use ,so I asked the TF . Several said TDS SIS 440 would be the best. I have never used this but I'm leaning that way. I used LIfe Caulk before with the primer but wasn't happy . It also could have been that I starved the joint or made to tight of a joint and pushed all the caulk out. A starved glue joint is always a concern.When I went back and reworked the the end joints I wound up with a caulk gasket about 1/16 " thick that wasn't stuck to either side of the teak joint.Pack Mule consider bedding the CR down w something that comes apart w ease like Dolphinite. But that particular product may dry out in your hot weather but if not it should be perfect. You don't need to seal out water on the CR do you? Does anyone know of a product similar to Dolphinite? It's sort of a putty like stuff that seals very well and stays soft and pliable for extremely long periods of time where there isn't extremely low humidity for long periods. I think I took some Dolphinite apart on my Willard that I'm quite sure was original. Still soft and the bedded part came off easily.
I use a lot of Sika Flex 291 and after 6 to 10 years it seems to always fail.
Tempted to use Life Caulk but I think I recall several here were not happy w it. Wasn't it designed to adhere especially well on teak? Teak is such a problem.